What products should I use from bare metal to finished clear?

[Motorcitydak]

Hey guys, I am nearly ready for body work and paint. There is a steep learning curve here and I am hoping to avoid expensive mistakes. There are some areas that will need 3/16 or so of filler so I’ll looking for some fiberglass filler to start with. Some I have been looking at (duraglas and everglass) mention they can be applied DTM but is that really true? It would be ideal right now since I am not yet set up to spray. Should I instead hit the bare metal with primer, then do the fiberglass filler over that to fill in the large areas? I’m hoping to start ordering materials soon.

For the finished color, I have a local shop I want to use to make it. They may still be shut down so I could not ask them what materials I should use from here. Do I need to wait to talk to them to make a decision? Or if I use incompatible materials, could a layer of primer sealer fix the issue?

I’m looking for recommendations for fiberglass filler, primer(s), high build primer, filler, glazing putty, what else?

[slimjim]

I recently did all of this for the first time. you'll get a hundred different recommendations but almost everyone will say to choose a single brand and stick with it as best as possible.
For this reason, My cars metal work was sealed in a coat of SPI epoxy, then used Evercoat metal 2 metal in place of lead(probably wasn't necessary), Evercoat rage gold filler, Evercoat metal glaze skim coat, Evercoat feather fill G2 Polyester primer and then again sealed in SPI epoxy awaiting it's paint.

If I were to do it all again I'd perhaps try and look for a DTM poly primer like Clausen or perhaps look into evercoats 'Super build 4:1'. Just for ease of use and not having to spot prime burn through areas.

[dhutton]

Here is my process from bare metal:

SPI epoxy
Filler I use Rage Ultra for easy sanding
SPI epoxy
Z-Chrome Rust Defender Polyester primer
SPI Turbo Urethane Primer
SPI epoxy reduced 25% as a sealer

Always SPI epoxy on bare metal before filler and urethane primer for best adhesion.

I highly recommend SPI clear, either Universal or Euro.

You will save a lot of money using SPI products.

Never use etch primers. They are old school and have no place in modern restoration work. Same for DTM fillers etc, they are fine for collision work but best not used in restoration work.

Don

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks for the info. From my previous digging SPI had s come up a lot so I’m glad to hear them be recommended. I’ll for sure go with their products.

On another note, what about a recommendation for some spray guns? I’d like something I can use for all the primer, maybe feather fill if I need it, clear and also a detail gun. I have a few little things to add on after they color goes down.

[dhutton]

For base and clear I recommend an Iwata LPH-400 LV with a 1.4 tip for novice painters.

For polyester primer a lot of guys use a Vaper gun with a 2.3 tip.

For epoxy I use a gun with a 1.8 tip.

Don

[slimjim]

I went cheap with the poly primer with a 2.5mm tip from amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NOU92G/ref=emc_b_5_t). I found it harder to clean than other products and it sets really quick so since I'm inexperienced and anything sprayed would be sanded I didn't want the high cost of a gun hanging over my head.

Then buy a good gun for the later stages like Don recommended.

[bmbrzmn101]

Some good info guys, thanks for sharing!

Chris

[dhutton]

If you have a bigger budget I have a Sata Polyester gun that does an amazing job with poly. I also choke it down and use it for high build urethane primer. 2.5 tip.

Don

[79 Camaro]

The other thing to consider is the paint color. It's cool to have some special paint blend but later it can be really tough to match if something happens.
There are so many great factory car colors these days. Drive around some of the new car lots and look at all the colors, solid and metallic.

[Motorcitydak]

I actually have been doing that for over a year now. I’d go to shows and ‘color shop’. Once the rendering of my car was done and we liked the end color, I’ve been trying to find something to match that. My cousin is a painter and can mix up anything I could imagine. He has made a few samples for me so far so at least I’ll have the exact recipe. What I’ve settled on now is a factory Lotus color called fire red. It’s a dark metallic red that looks close to the rendering and I really like it.

[Motorcitydak]

I see that a 1.8 tip is available for that iwata gun. Can I use that to spray my epoxy base layer?

[dhutton]

I see that a 1.8 tip is available for that iwata gun. Can I use that to spray my epoxy base layer?
Yes you might even be able to use the 1.4.

Don

[Motorcitydak]

So I came across a paint gun I’ve had for years now. It’s a brand new Sharpe Razor 253823 with a 1.4 tip. Just from looking around online, it seems like a decent gun but is it good enough for a great paint job from a novice? I already picked up a brand new iwata lph-440 primer gun with a 1.8 tip since I’ll need that one much sooner.

[cdrod]

For base and clear I recommend an Iwata LPH-400 LV with a 1.4 tip for novice painters.
Don

Don is this the gun you recommended?

https://www.amazon.com/ANEST-IWATA-LPH-400-164LV-LPH400LV-without/dp/B018SKS46K/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Iwata+LPH-400+LV&qid=1590851608&sr=8-1

Rodney

[dhutton]

Don is this the gun you recommended?

https://www.amazon.com/ANEST-IWATA-LPH-400-164LV-LPH400LV-without/dp/B018SKS46K/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Iwata+LPH-400+LV&qid=1590851608&sr=8-1

Rodney
Yes but you want a 1.4 tip not a 1.6 imho. You can usually find good deals on eBay.

Don

[Crazy Horse]

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