TurnOne 10:1 or Lee 9:1 steering box?

[anguilla1980]

I'm torn between these 2 boxes for my 1st gen I'm building for road racing (SCCA CAM-T) and HPDEs:

https://www.turnone-steering.com/collections/power-steering-gears/products/turn-one-steering-box-sb2-series?variant=31276363284503

https://leepowersteering.com/collections/gearboxes/products/saginaw-800-gearbox-9-on-road-race-vehicles

Whichever I go with, I'll also be buying the Lee pump and reservoir kit:
https://leepowersteering.com/collections/power-steering-pumps/products/saginaw-p-power-steering-pump-remote-reservoir-kit-1960s-1990s-gm-cars


I'm inclined to go with Lee since they are less than 2 hrs from where I live here in CA. But I keep reading that TurnOne is the best of the best. I'll be going with the 35# with the Lee, what T-bar does that translate into with TurnOne?

Physical size is of utmost concern to me since my header primaries are 2". I see that the TurnOne casting is lighter and a bit different, but does that translate to the casting being not as close to headers? Lee can't get the smaller Delphi boxes anymore.

Is there anyone here who has tried both? I'm also curious how TurnOnes customer service is.

Lastly, which Borgeson steering u-joint do I need exactly with a 3/4 x30 input shaft? https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/borgeson-universal/part-type/steering-u-joints/shaft-end-1-app/3-4-in-30-spline/universal-joint-finish/natural?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=u-joint%20steering%203%2F4%22%20x%2030

Will those work with my factory steering column shaft? Is it advisable to go with the vibration damper versions? Should I even go with a Borgeson u-joint or just use a HD rag joint? I want the best feedback possible but also don't want my forearms to feel like they are numb and falling off at the end of a track day on the road course from vibration.

Thanks!

[TheBandit]

The '69 Firebird would have the box mounted directly to the end of the column without much room for a u-joint. I haven't heard of anyone regretting going to u-joints to get a more solid feel to the steering, but I'm not sure how folks are squeezing one into that space. Also since there's only one joint, it would be extra important to align the column carefully.

To throw another option out there, I just put a Sweet Mfg "sportsman" 700 series box in my Nova. Like Lee, they build them with whatever ratio and tbar you want. The box I installed is a 12.7:1 with a 235 tbar. It's heavy for the street but I really like it - it's much more engaging. I can't wait to try it at autocross or at the track, but in terms of ratio it isn't a lot faster than the variable ratio box it replaced. I think you'll be glad you went to a faster ratio box; I would have gone that route if there wasn't such a big price difference. I posted some before and after driving impressions on YouTube. Here's a link: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLxL7XQ2sGTky5k7TmANQDYmyLrYDxu7C6

In case you haven't seen it, Lee posted a nice video doing back-to-back comparison with boxes of different ratios, mosty using a 35# valve. Here's a link (https://youtu.be/X2vTkWyKb2g). In the video, they setup a small slalom course and swap boxes while the driver, Jeff Smith, gives his driving impressions. You can see he really lights up when they put the 9:1 "race" box in.

[pitts64]

I have a 14:1 with a 30 lb valve in my 69 el Camino and love it.. I'm using a 12.6" steering wheel with that..

[anguilla1980]

Thanks for the feedback.

I've also read that the TurnOne 600 series box is a bit smaller than the 800 series that Lee uses, is that true? If so, that would be great for my header tube clearance.....

It would be nice if there was a Wiki page with all the series and their physical measurements.

[TheBandit]

My understanding is the 600 boxes are about 6lb lighter and visually smaller, but the shape is different so it's hard to say if there is more or less clearance, depending on what area/space the header tubes occupy. I've read that the 600 will usually fit in the same space as a 700/800 box.

[anguilla1980]

I found an old post on here where a person says that it gave a little extra space just about everywhere, so I think it's worth giving it a try.

[Motobrewmaster]

I have a Turn One 600 in my Camaro. It fits in where the original 800 steering box was. It is definitely lighter and does take up a little less room. I did however have to re-adjust my steering column to mate it up to my rag joint. I replaced my original rag joint with the DSE rag joint which is stiffer than the original ones.

I have a LS in my car with Hooker Black Heart Long tube 1-7/8" headers so they are taking space! That said it fits fine.

I have not driven the car yet so I can not tell you more. Mine is 8:1 with a T-Bar of 0.215. They also rebuilt my power steering pump and matched it to my box. I like a quick turning car and it will be used for as much track time as I can get!

[anguilla1980]

Just to follow up...

I received the TurnOne SB2 600 series based box in 10:1 with a 235 t-bar. I have the Lee PS pump kit with external reservoir and setup for hydroboost. I have Earl's 6 AN power steering hose and fittings on the way, along with all the Mr Gasket 6 AN stuff for the low pressure side. I'm also putting in the Lee PS filter and a cooler w/fan that will run on a 200F thermal switch to kick it on as needed.

A couple notes on the steering shaft u-joint; the TurnOne box is 3/4" 30 spline and my non-tilt 1969 f-body steering column has the rag joint coupler factory welded onto the end from what I can tell. The tilt columns are 1" 48 spline removeable, figures. So, I bought a Flaming River 3/4" 30 X 1" 48 u -joint (FR1734). The shafts whether 48 spline or not, both appear to be 1". I plan on cutting off the rag joint coupler on the end of the shaft, sliding the u-joint onto the shaft, then drilling the shaft for the set-screw. Flaming River does not offer a 1" smooth, only 48 spline or DD so I'm just going to make it work.

Also, the column will need to move up about 1/4" inch which means extending the slots in the column mount under the dash. Shouldn't be a big deal and I've also bought a new steering column bearing, rubber floor boot, and plastic carpet protector (my boot fell apart and my carpet protector is cracked).

The only variable I am unsure of since I haven't started the project yet is that my car was an automatic that had linkage from the trans to the column for a park safety switch. The linkage I removed when I did my Tremec Magnum, but I just zip-tied the arm on the steering shaft so it wouldn't rotate. I'm going to look into removing all of that junk from the column altogether.

It's crossed my mind that it may be easier for me to upgrade to a tilt column with the 48 spline for a manual shift car to make this easier, but I've never trusted tilt columns on the race track. Just too much play, especially when you apply pressure. I've even seen more than 1 break.

[TheBandit]

Do you have any photos of the end of the steering column? I've never heard of a welded-on rag joint.

[anguilla1980]

I can post a picture once removed. If you Google for rag joint coupler you should be able to find pictures of shafts with the coupler on the end.

Mine looks just like this: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=861344&stc=1&d=1327429979

Note that I said the rag joint coupler, not the rag joint.

[TheBandit]

That's what mine looks like too and I didn't need anything fancy. All you should have to do is unbolt the rag joint from the column coupler and bolt the new rag joint to the coupler. The part that's attached to the steering column with two slots and two holes does not need to be replaced.

All you should need is a 3/4"-30 rag joint like this one:
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-GM-Style-3-4-30-Spline-Steering-Shaft-Rag-Joint,41952.html

[anguilla1980]

It must be removed in order to facilitate installation of a u-joint instead of a rag joint, which is what I am doing.

I think we got our wires crossed lol. I'm not trying to use a rag joint as was factory.

[TheBandit]

Oh I see you are converting to U-joint. Yes in that case more work is needed. You'll need to be very careful to align the steering column because u-joints don't tolerate offsets, so if there is any offset in the system it will wear the column. Cars with front-mounted boxes use two u-joint shafts which can handle the offset.

I look forward to seeing what you do because I'd love to have a u-joint instead of a rubber coupling.

- - - Updated - - -

I just noticed you're in Bakersfield. Where do you go for events? I'm down in Ventura area and there's nothing going on locally here anymore.

[anguilla1980]

I'll for sure post about my adventure in going to u-joint.

I haven't done anything like a cruise-in since end of last year. I'm not a car "show" kinda guy, maybe a couple cars & coffee a year, a few cruise-ins, but mostly just driving the snot out of my cars.

[Motobrewmaster]

I'll for sure post about my adventure in going to u-joint.

I haven't done anything like a cruise-in since end of last year. I'm not a car "show" kinda guy, maybe a couple cars & coffee a year, a few cruise-ins, but mostly just driving the snot out of my cars.

I'm with ya anguilla, drive it! Parking is boring.

[anguilla1980]

I'm with ya anguilla, drive it! Parking is boring.

For sure. Looking forward to an open track day @Willow maybe towards the end of summer. For next season I'm looking to join SCCA and run CAM-T, but the way things are looking it may be the season after that.

[TheBandit]

Out of curiosity, have you found any autocross locally in Bakersfield?

[anguilla1980]

The PCA used to do them out at Rio Bravo when I was a member years ago, but aside from that, no auto-x in Bakersfield that I've found. Best bet around here is the SCCA track out at Button Willow. I'm more a road race guy than auto-x so I'm not really plugged into that scene.

[anguilla1980]

I ended up purchasing an Ididit Pro-Lite steering column that's already 1" 48 spline for my Flaming River u-joint. When it got down to it, I didn't want any compromises in having possible steering slack or something that could become a dangerous situation on the track. Grinding down my factory 1" smooth column then notching it for the set scew, I didn't feel it was as safe and secure as it could be. Plus the Ididit column is collapsable 5" for additional safety. I'll just have to relocate my ignition switch to a start button.

I also bought a new NRG hub adapter and quick release, and a really nice suede steering wheel. It will even accept the 6 bolt pattern 1st gen Firebird horn button which is a nice touch.

TurnOne didn't send me the two -6 AN fittings for the steering box and I've been waiting on them come 2 weeks Monday. I'm also waiting on the Holley PS AN fittings which were back-ordered. The last of all the parts I need should be here by June 15th.