Metal fab guys - Quarter Flares guidance

[geometryjeff]

Metal fab guys - need your help on 68 Camaro. Found rust at the wheel wells that need repaired, so it may be an opportunity to modify the outside opening for a bigger tire to supplement the mini tubs. I'm thinking I could use a section from a skin with a couple precise cuts, a wheel well roller, and a bead roller for a lap joint weld. Please try to follow my thought process and agree or nix the plan. First, I bend strips of 1/8 stk to match inside and outside radii and shape from the feature lines up at about 2" to 3" apart and drill and bolt them sandwiching the original panel. Then trim the original lip from quarter - rocker to rear about 2" worth and cut outer inner back for access. Then trim skin about plus 2" (4" total from opening all around). Make small cuts to skin lip above feature line and dolly the lip vertical and make a small cut at the feature line for movement. Then place trimmed skin on body quarter and clamp to match position utilizing the 1/8' strips to hold shape (will need enlongated slots for bolt and nut fasteners (slip fit area on new skin). Then using the wheel well roller, force the new skin to a new position above feature lines by 1/2 to 3/4 inches. I'm hoping the 1/8' strips will maintain near original shapes for both panels. Then trace a good outline for the lap weld and use a bead roller to recess the area where both come together. Then it's a matter of welding and dolly work for final shape, and filling in the outer inner to the new panel. I have lots of metal working experience but not with body sheet metal. What are thoughts; can this process work? Thanks in advance for any input.

[dhutton]

I like this approach. More wide body than flares.

https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=23832&highlight=Fat+bottom+Camaros

Don

[jlcustomz]

I'd agree with widening the panels rather than the flares also. Keeps most of the original classic look with a little extra badass to it rather than an enlarged flare that may be perceived as not looking proper.
Also lap joints are a good source for possible rust and ghost shadowing.

[geometryjeff]

Thx for responding. I've started and am taking pics as I go. I think I'll try butt welding instead of lap weld. Should the car be resting on rear suspension for welding? It's on rotisserie for ease of access right now. Thanks in advance for help.

[dhutton]

Thx for responding. I've started and am taking pics as I go. I think I'll try butt welding instead of lap weld. Should the car be resting on rear suspension for welding? It's on rotisserie for ease of access right now. Thanks in advance for help.
Carving up quarter panels on a rotisserie is not a good idea imho.

Don

[geometryjeff]

That's what I figured but with bar work, I'm less worried. Thanks.

[geometryjeff]

Update - need paint prep advise, but first, where I'm at today. Made good progress. Made a wire gage (1/4 round stock) to fit the original wheel well opening and anchored it to the axle lugs. Then I used a laser fastened to the rear disc to swing a straight line on the flater area of the wheel house. Then I cut on the laser line. Then I spaced the wire gage out about 5/8" and located the new wheel house (AMD) to match gage location and trimmed for a butt weld to the new cut line. Then I anchored the wheel house in place but didn't weld. Then I trimmed a 6" radial section from a quarter skin (AMD) and fit it into the newly located wheel house lip and sectioned it to mate with the original quarter. Then trimmed origin quarter and anchored new pieces in place for tack welds. With everything in place, I removed the wheel house for back side access. After weld, planishing, weld , planishing the butt welds and hammer/dolly work to get fit and form close, I reinstalled wheel house and butt welded in place. All that came together better than I had hoped. Now for advise. Don't want to paint whole car so. I plan to Garnet blast weld areas to clean pits and 80# cleaned area to the feather edge of original paint (looks like there is layer of rage and a layer of rust defender under paint). I am thinking of epoxy on metal, then rage, then epoxy (cover any bare metal from long board), then rust defender, then, paint. Should I wipe metal with pre before epoxy, and if so, should I be concerned about getting moisture in the feather edges? Please advise with as detailed as possible since I am getting close to next steps. The car is in a well insulated garage and heat has been kept at about 70* and with humidity range 35 to 75. Thanks in advance for your help.

[Alwhite00]

Update - need paint prep advise, but first, where I'm at today. Made good progress. Made a wire gage (1/4 round stock) to fit the original wheel well opening and anchored it to the axle lugs. Then I used a laser fastened to the rear disc to swing a straight line on the flater area of the wheel house. Then I cut on the laser line. Then I spaced the wire gage out about 5/8" and located the new wheel house (AMD) to match gage location and trimmed for a butt weld to the new cut line. Then I anchored the wheel house in place but didn't weld. Then I trimmed a 6" radial section from a quarter skin (AMD) and fit it into the newly located wheel house lip and sectioned it to mate with the original quarter. Then trimmed origin quarter and anchored new pieces in place for tack welds. With everything in place, I removed the wheel house for back side access. After weld, planishing, weld , planishing the butt welds and hammer/dolly work to get fit and form close, I reinstalled wheel house and butt welded in place. All that came together better than I had hoped. Now for advise. Don't want to paint whole car so. I plan to Garnet blast weld areas to clean pits and 80# cleaned area to the feather edge of original paint (looks like there is layer of rage and a layer of rust defender under paint). I am thinking of epoxy on metal, then rage, then epoxy (cover any bare metal from long board), then rust defender, then, paint. Should I wipe metal with pre before epoxy, and if so, should I be concerned about getting moisture in the feather edges? Please advise with as detailed as possible since I am getting close to next steps. The car is in a well insulated garage and heat has been kept at about 70* and with humidity range 35 to 75. Thanks in advance for your help.


any pictures?

[dhutton]

I would apply a sealer before paint on the rust defender. Reduced SPI epoxy is what I use for a sealer.

Don

[geometryjeff]

A few progress pics

[geometryjeff]

I blasted a week ago. Car is in insulated garage where humidity is 70% or less. Should I blast again before epoxy to assure no micro rust? Thx.

[Smee78]

I always try to go as clean as I can before sealing anything.