Damn it, did I screw up my new Ford 9" ?

[anguilla1980]

I have a new Ford 9" in my 69 Firebird with about 300 miles on it. I'm doing a T56 Magnum swap and part of that involved a new driveshaft with 1350 u-joints.

To accommodate the 1350 u-joints, I bought this from Strange:

https://www.strangeengineering.net/product/9-yoke-28-spline-1350-strange-chrome-moly.html

https://www.strangeengineering.net/product/hd-cap-kit-for-strange-1350-rear-end-yokes.html

and they sold me this spacer kit for the pinion yoke:

https://www.strangeengineering.net/product/pinion-yoke-spacer-kit-when-using-u1603-with-n1914-n1915-or-n1917.html


I needed to use an impact to remove the pinion yoke nut with someone holding the car brakes. No problem. Then I used a puller to get the old yoke off. No problem. I compared the new yoke to the old and they were identical in total length but I needed to use the thicker of the 2 spacers under the nut for it to be the same shallow depth as the original, no problem I think. Then I proceeded to use the impact again to crank down the nut and seat the pinion yoke.

Problem is, I don't recall exactly how much of the threads was sticking out past the pinion nut originally and it seemed like there is maybe more now. I did some searching and it would appear that cranking down on that nut sets the pinion pre-load. DAMMIT! My dumb ass knows nothing about rear ends and didn't know that.

So, am I screwed? Do I need to tow my car to a rear-end guy on a flatbed after my T56 swap to have my pinion depth/pre-load redone?

This is a super bummer if I screwed it up.

Thanks!

[dhutton]

Pretty sure that needs to be redone if you used an impact driver on it.

Don

[John McIntire]

You can just pull the center section and bring it to him yourself.

[anguilla1980]

Ok. thanks. Is there a way to know for sure? Like it turns and feels just like it did before. Would it make a noise when driving?

[BBPanel]

Seems like the first thing you need to determine is if a crush sleeve or a crush sleeve eliminator kit was used to set pinion preload. Obviously the builder would know - and if they used the eliminator kit you are probably ok. Even though the kits are inexpensive and will mitigate the issue you may be having, most builders seem to use the crush sleeve. You can check the approx preload with an inch-pound torque wrench - on a new build most run 10-15 in-lbs I think. However, you will have the add'l drag of the axles (unless you pull them) and the engagement of the ring gear but it won't be much.

[badazz81z28]

I have a new Ford 9" in my 69 Firebird with about 300 miles on it. I'm doing a T56 Magnum swap and part of that involved a new driveshaft with 1350 u-joints.

To accommodate the 1350 u-joints, I bought this from Strange:

https://www.strangeengineering.net/product/9-yoke-28-spline-1350-strange-chrome-moly.html

https://www.strangeengineering.net/product/hd-cap-kit-for-strange-1350-rear-end-yokes.html

and they sold me this spacer kit for the pinion yoke:

https://www.strangeengineering.net/product/pinion-yoke-spacer-kit-when-using-u1603-with-n1914-n1915-or-n1917.html


I needed to use an impact to remove the pinion yoke nut with someone holding the car brakes. No problem. Then I used a puller to get the old yoke off. No problem. I compared the new yoke to the old and they were identical in total length but I needed to use the thicker of the 2 spacers under the nut for it to be the same shallow depth as the original, no problem I think. Then I proceeded to use the impact again to crank down the nut and seat the pinion yoke.

Problem is, I don't recall exactly how much of the threads was sticking out past the pinion nut originally and it seemed like there is maybe more now. I did some searching and it would appear that cranking down on that nut sets the pinion pre-load. DAMMIT! My dumb ass knows nothing about rear ends and didn't know that.

So, am I screwed? Do I need to tow my car to a rear-end guy on a flatbed after my T56 swap to have my pinion depth/pre-load redone?

This is a super bummer if I screwed it up.

Thanks!


Any reputable builder uses a solid spacer over a crush sleeve these days so odds are it has a solid spacer, but a question for the builder to verify. If it does have a crush sleeve, it all needs to come apart to be done right. Bearing preload is checked without resistance from the ring gear or axles. An easy way to check to see what you have done, is to rotate the pinion. If you crushed the sleeve more than it was, it will be tight. If it is tight and you drive it, you will smoke the pinion bearings in short time.

Good thing is pulling a 3rd member is simple.

[anguilla1980]

Mine is not tight in the least, feels 100% as it did prior to swapping the yoke.

I will call Quick Performance next week and verify they used a solid spacer.

That would be great news, thanks for the info!!!

[badazz81z28]

Update?

[anguilla1980]

It was a solid collar and the car drives totally normal thankfully. I got really lucky on this one.