69 Mustang sportsroof

[Tmiles]

Need some opinions.

I have lowered the car with adjustable QA1 coilovers. Did the Shelby drop in the front and a Heidts 4 link. Parallel with panhard bar. I think it's about 5" lower than stock. 25" from floor to fender opening at center of the wheel. Randall rack. Full length sub frame connectors with 2 tube Stella added bars cross ways between the sfc's. Plan on driving it hard sometimes, maybe an autocross or 2, nothing regular. Might take it to the strip once or twice. I just want it to handle with no surprises if I'm in some curves or changing lanes quickly. The bags are simulating the weight of the other stuff to go on the car when done.

Do I need sway bars front or rear or both?

[F23]

The panhard bar was a very good move for rear stability. I would recommend you go to solid strut bars up front, either from Shaun at Street or Track or Mike Maier's kit from MMI. Mike's struts require (and come with) his LCAs, making it much more expensive than going with Shaun's, which bolt onto the stock arms. From a high speed stability, braking, and acceleration standpoint, getting rid of the rubber at the front of the strut bars did wonders for my '69 Cougar (mechanically identical to a Mustang). No more lane changing during braking, and feels real stable at 80mph on the highway.

Specifically on swaybars, most go with a 1"- 1 1/8" swaybar up front depending on how much you value roll-control over NVH. For the rear, most view it as more of a tuning tool used to balance out the car. In most situations, adding a rear sway bar will actually reduce the total amount of mechanical grip in the rear; racers/high performance drivers will often use them to reduce understeer and achieve front-rear handling balance. This is because most racers prefer (and drive faster) in a balanced car, and are willing to give up a certain amount of mechanical grip to achieve it. Mike Maier, who I spent a while with on the phone while choosing and installing my suspension (and who's youtube videos are worth a look), said that he often connects and disconnects his rear swaybar based upon track conditions/tires, ect.

[Tmiles]

The panhard bar was a very good move for rear stability. I would recommend you go to solid strut bars up front, either from Shaun at Street or Track or Mike Maier's kit from MMI. Mike's struts require (and come with) his LCAs, making it much more expensive than going with Shaun's, which bolt onto the stock arms. From a high speed stability, braking, and acceleration standpoint, getting rid of the rubber at the front of the strut bars did wonders for my '69 Cougar (mechanically identical to a Mustang). No more lane changing during braking, and feels real stable at 80mph on the highway.

Specifically on swaybars, most go with a 1"- 1 1/8" swaybar up front depending on how much you value roll-control over NVH. For the rear, most view it as more of a tuning tool used to balance out the car. In most situations, adding a rear sway bar will actually reduce the total amount of mechanical grip in the rear; racers/high performance drivers will often use them to reduce understeer and achieve front-rear handling balance. This is because most racers prefer (and drive faster) in a balanced car, and are willing to give up a certain amount of mechanical grip to achieve it. Mike Maier, who I spent a while with on the phone while choosing and installing my suspension (and who's youtube videos are worth a look), said that he often connects and disconnects his rear swaybar based upon track conditions/tires, ect.

Thank you, that is what I was thinking on the bars also. Just wanted some confirmation. I'll definitely look into the strut bars.