1970 Pontiac Grand Prix, too HEAVY?

[TanMan]

About to dive into a fun project: transforming my 1970 Pontiac Grand Prix into a pro touring machine. Though I’m new to this, I do know that weight (and weight distribution) is a crucial factor in building a car for autocross/road course racing. So the big question is: how heavy is TOO HEAVY?

The ‘70 Grand Prix is a beast, 118” wheelbase and 4,000+ lbs. I’m concerned that I might be headed down the wrong path with such a heavy machine. It’s a great street cruiser so I don’t plan on “gutting” the car to remove weight. Just wondering if I ought to hold off and try to build a much lighter car. (I don’t have the funds to acquire a ‘69 or ‘70 firebird, but damn that would be fun!) Anyway, is 4,000+ lbs (without driver) just too much??166569166570166571

[c4racer2]

It’s heavy. But even more so is the aftermarket support for suspension setup is limited. Unless you keep it close to stock.
I would personally build a A body not a full size.

[alocker]

Im pretty sure this body style shares suspension with the A-body.

Weight is only relevant if you want to be competetive. Suspension, tires, and setup will make these pleny of fun but if your chasing lighter or newer cars then weight is a concern. Whats the typical front rear bias? I think these are pretty nose heavy which certainly doesnt help.

[TanMan]

From what I’ve learned, the suspension is 100% A-body, so luckily parts are everywhere. It’s essentially a ‘stretched A-body’ with 6 extra inches in the middle. Technically referred to as a G-body.

As for front/rear bias, I can’t seem to find that data anywhere. Nose-heavy might be fairly accurate though.

[c4racer2]

oh cool - in that case go for it. I was considering building a Monte Carlo at one point as a street cruiser - same idea, it's a stretched A body and suspension stuff is all compatible. But now I'm thinking if I do build a DD type of classic it will be a earlier A body 64-67 vintage - I just prefer the lines and the size of those. But this would make a great road trip car!!

[silvermonte]

I say run it and have fun with it. Who cares about being super competitive, you are not racing to make money so just do what you can and drive the crap out of it.

[68Formula]

Weight and distribution is very important. But if that's all that mattered this would be a Miata forum. :)

That thing is cool! Build it, be the only one at the track with one, and enjoy surprising the <censored> out of everyone.

Yes, A-body suspensions will swap on, and there's a ton of aftermarket support for that.

[TanMan]

Thanks for the feedback, guys. I’ve actually had many a road trip in this beast. It was my restored-daily-driver in the late 90’s and it hasn’t seen a lot of love in the past decade or so. Can’t part with it, so might as well pro-tour it!

Anybody else dealt with large, front-heavy cars? I don’t know how to pull weight out of it without going full-on racecar. I’m looking at Ridetech coilovers, improved caster spindles, Wilwood on all 4 corners, and a 3.55 or so posi. Guess I won’t be road tripping without an overdrive mod to the TH400...

[68Formula]

Thanks for the feedback, guys. I’ve actually had many a road trip in this beast. It was my restored-daily-driver in the late 90’s and it hasn’t seen a lot of love in the past decade or so. Can’t part with it, so might as well pro-tour it!

Anybody else dealt with large, front-heavy cars? I don’t know how to pull weight out of it without going full-on racecar. I’m looking at Ridetech coilovers, improved caster spindles, Wilwood on all 4 corners, and a 3.55 or so posi. Guess I won’t be road tripping without an overdrive mod to the TH400...

As far as moving more bias to the rear:
Aluminum radiator and electric fans.
Move the battery to the trunk.
Aluminum heads, intake, block, etc.
Tubular a-arms can weigh less than the factory stamped steel sometimes.
If it's the same radiator core as an A-body, there are companies that sell aluminum ones (but expect to pay bucks).
An "LS" engine, even if iron block, is significantly lighter than a Pontiac.
Hollow front sway bar (probably wouldn't weigh less than the solid stock, but would be much stiffer without adding significant weight).
Rack and pinon conversion (not simple or cheap though).
Headers instead of cast iron logs.
Lighter (and better bolstered) front buckets.
Manual trans. in most cases will be lighter than automatics with torque converters and fluids, plus won't require a trans cooler.
Manual brakes or hydraboost.
Front discs (rear discs I think would still be similar to drums because of the parking brake mechanism).

Neutral (not shifting significantly fore/aft):
Any structural bolts you remove, you could replace with titanium. Non-load bearing screws (like interior) could be replaced with aluminum.
Aluminum or carbon fiber driveshaft.
Aluminum wheels.

Less overall weight but removed from rear:
Sheet-metal fabricated 9" rear with aluminum center section.
Hollow rear sway bar (also more of a weight avoidance like the front).
Smaller gas tank or plastic-based tank.

[68Formula]

Almost forgot. I recently removed about 30lbs from the front of mine using a combination of intermittent fasting, limiting average daily calories to 1800-2000 calories, daily walks, occasionally biking or swimming, and resistance training 3x per week using a 5x5 program. :)

[TanMan]

Wow, quite the comprehensive list! Great stuff.

What I read was, “money, $$, more money, $$$, and BIG money”. So yeah, I read ya loud and clear. Shouldn’t deceive myself and pretend this will be affordable.

I do love that with all of these mods and creative weight reduction, these are still fully functional, street-drivable cars. Head’s in the right place, wallet’s not.

[TanMan]

And it’s funny, the 30 pound reduction in the driver’s seat doesn’t cost a penny..

[Tsaints1115]

Don't be a cookie cutter! That car is awesome.

And more weight can always be overcome with more HP. It's the power to weight ratio that is what you feel.

[gscherer78ta]

Just run it and have a lot of fun. It will take a while to learn the car and then to learn how to drive fast and then you can decide on what is the best direction for getting faster from that point! I love seeing different cars at events! Even the F bodies are getting to be cookie cutter cars out there- Dare to be different!

[sodak65]

That is an A body not a full size. Do some research.

[jimco84x]

I don't know actual numbers, but had a 69 Grand Prix and I can tell you that you could stand between the engine and the radiator if the fan shroud was removed. The engine is further back than the hood line would suggest. It's still heavy, and has a lot of overhang front and rear but don't let any of that dissuade you. I think it would be a cool car.

166600

[OLDFLM]

Jeff Schwartz did it in a 1982 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham nearly 20 years ago... you can too!

https://www.schwartzperformance.com/project/1982-cadillac-fleetwood-brougham/

"Cadillac Attack"

Measured Performance
•1.02 Lateral G’s on skidpad
•11.80 @ 118 mph in ¼ mile
•0–60 4.0 sec
•Top Speed: 150 mph

Frame & Suspension
•Schwartz narrowed and boxed stock chassis
•12" single piston GM brakes, front and rear

Engine
•Schwartz 700hp 500 cid Cadillac Eldorado engine (eg. big heavy cast iron V8)
•Holley 850 cfm
•Custom headers
•NOS Big Shot 225hp
•Ported heads
•custom grind hydraulic camshaft

Drivetrain
•TH400
•Custom driveshaft
•GM 8.5 ten bolt

Exhaust
•Custom 3” dual-exhaust system with Flowmaster mufflers

Wheels & Tires
•Centerline Forged Billet wheels; fully polished
•17x11 with 315/35/17 Nitto Drag Radials
•17x9 with 275/40/17 Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 tires

[WallaceMFG]

I agree, don't be a cookie cutter! Build it how you want, and have fun with it. That is the most important part. Plus, your car will be unique in stead of blending into the sea of Camaros.

That big car done up with the right stance and wheels will look pretty cool!

[68Formula]

I don't know actual numbers, but had a 69 Grand Prix and I can tell you that you could stand between the engine and the radiator if the fan shroud was removed. The engine is further back than the hood line would suggest. It's still heavy, and has a lot of overhang front and rear but don't let any of that dissuade you. I think it would be a cool car.

166600

It appears the extra 5" of wheelbase is moving the front axle forward of the engine compared to the A-body. If that's the case, then the weight distribution may not be as bad as the OP thinks. Be interesting to get it on some scales and compare to a GTO.

[c4racer2]

Oh if that's a car you already own - by all means build it. Hell yes!!

I would add aftermarket AC to it as well!

[silvermonte]

In my local SCCA autox group there is a kid that just graduated high school and he runs a fairly stock 70 monte carlo. He does decent but mainly he has tons of fun and people are always asking him questions about it.

[Later-A-body]

Well as an owner of a big Pontiac that still weighs 3960 with an LS7, don't let that stop you. You don't have to go completely overboard spending money to upgrade your car to have a ton of fun. Smart investments in good quality suspension such as Global West, adjustable shocks, 17" or 18" wheels and a 200 treadwear tire will get you pretty far. You already have either a 400 or 455 in the GP so that's handled. Spend wisely and go have fun.166822

[Peanut1959]

Love those GAs and GPs!

[MonzaRacer]

So a Chevelle runs 3600ish pounds and your worried about 400lbs?
GTFOI Get The F Over It!
Ihave had two first gen Monte Carlos, want another and right now have a 4dr 66 Caprice,
With todays performance innovations who cares just add anther 50 hp shot or couple pounds of boost.
Honestly build a nice solid fat torque curve Pontiac, gear accordingly and adapt a decent od trans or gear vendors and dont forget Bret Voekels from Ridetech, his wife has a 67 Bonneville and I saw it run through the cones at least once or twice.

[TanMan]

Thanks again for everyone’s feedback! I’m new to this, as in, I haven’t even gotten started. Trying to understand the pro touring big picture before I simply start ordering parts. I’ve had my ‘70 GP for 25 years and it turns 50 next year, so there’s a bit of a timing goal. We used to race these models at Nashville Motor Raceway but I think road course driving could be even more fun (and maybe break less?).

Also, glad to hear a bunch of you are running some heavy steel around the track- and even a big ole Pontiac or two, awesome!

[TanMan]

Trying to preserve (to some extent) the classic beauty of a GP with Rallye II wheels while at the same time understanding the need for massive brakes.

I found a 17” aluminum Rallye II look-alike but I can only fit 12.19” rotors which is not ideal. Should I bite the bullet and switch to more modern looking 18” wheels in order to squeeze in 12.88” (or bigger) rotors? Not forgetting 4,000 lbs won’t slow down without putting up a fight.

[68Formula]

Here's some affordable cast 18s like the Rallye IIs. http://us-mags.com/bandit-u109-w-3303.htm Not sure if they're ideal backspace for your vehicle, and the width has limited choices. A few people on here have them if you search for USMAGs Bandits. Here's an example from the manufacture's site:
166936

They also have a couple 2 piece forged and machined which are available in custom backspacing with more width options, and I believe lighter. But much more expensive (since it's not cast)
These are similar looking to the 109s
http://us-mags.com/bandit-u304-w-1318.htm

And these are closer to the original Rallye II design than the Bandits
http://us-mags.com/trans-am-u722-w-5713.htm166937

[TanMan]

Wow, in my everlasting quest for wheel options, I had found exactly those. The US-MAG Bandits are some of my favorites so far, if I indeed need to go 18”.

On the other hand- since they really aren’t Rallye II’s, I may need to dive all of the way in and go for an entirely different look.

The ‘70 GP is a long, distinguished, chromed-out kind of classic as opposed to a sporty, aggressive muscle car. So maybe a multi-spoke, less-chrome-approach could work as well. I just can’t quite imagine how that would play out on this vehicle.

Any wheel-tire visualizers out there that have worked for anyone?

[TanMan]

68Formula, damn those Trans Am U722 wheels are killer, but damn, $3,400 for a set!!

[68Formula]

Wow, in my everlasting quest for wheel options, I had found exactly those. The US-MAG Bandits are some of my favorites so far, if I indeed need to go 18”.

On the other hand- since they really aren’t Rallye II’s, I may need to dive all of the way in and go for an entirely different look.

The ‘70 GP is a long, distinguished, chromed-out kind of classic as opposed to a sporty, aggressive muscle car. So maybe a multi-spoke, less-chrome-approach could work as well. I just can’t quite imagine how that would play out on this vehicle.

Any wheel-tire visualizers out there that have worked for anyone?

They are not chrome, just polished. They don't look quite as reflective in person. If you wanted, you could even brush them to dull it a little.

I think that's what was done on this one:166938

[cdrod]

I have the U109 Bandits on my 442 convertible project. I didn’t like the flat centers that came on the rims, so I modified the stock retainers to mount the factory Olds SSI center caps.
166945

[TanMan]

Awesome, I was immediately drawn to the center caps, very nice touch. I have a friend who did a phenomenal, frame-off restomod on a ‘70 442 and it is absolutely gorgeous.

Did you go 18x8 front, 18x9 rear? I’m wondering if I can squeeze 9” in the front without potential issues.

BTW, I fully intend on putting original style PMD center caps on there;)

[68Formula]

Hard to say as there isn't a lot of information on backspace versus width for you vehicle. But if it'll fit on the rear, you can buy 2 and test fit on the front before you buy the other 2.

I'm thinking it'll work, and would look pretty sweet, not to mention perform better. On A-bodies there's some decent room. A lot of people stick with 8s, but the 9s have 8mm more offset, effectively pushing the tire more towards frame, and away from the outside fender lip (improving clearance to the fender lip).

The 9s would perform better with a 245 or 255 tire, than 8s. Here's some information from another thread on this site, about advantages to going to the wider side of the rim width for a given tire (especially on the front) in terms of performance.
https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/101915-Sidewall-deflection-and-Rim-Tire-size-questions
If you do a general web search you'll find similar information on other various competitive boards.

[Interceptor5588]

Do what you can for weight -- aluminum intake, water pump, & rad, headers & maybe a smaller modern ac compressor. Suspension mods as discussed. Biggest brakes and tires you can afford. Don/t worry about the rest.

[OLDFLM]

http://us-mags.com/bandit-u109-g-20509.htm

235/40R18 | 265/40R18

http://us-mags.com/bandit-u109-g-16592.htm

235/50R18 | 295/45R18

And it looks like Hotchkis at least makes rear arms and sway bars for your GP...

These should give you some more ideas:

After a quick search on here, I'd contact UMI!

https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/95720-UMI-s-1972-Pontiac-LeMans-Restoration-and-Pro-Touring-Build

Other big Pontiacs with the wheels you like:

https://www.vanguardmotorsales.com/inventory/3078/1971-pontiac-grand-prix-restomod

https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/63712-1972-grand-prix

And since yours is black: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C9gAI0nDJRo

http://fastmusclecar.com/best-muscle-cars/magnificent-1972-pontiac-grand-prix-type-j/

[TanMan]

Man, you guys are a wealth of information. Much appreciated.

[c4racer2]

That car is simply bad ass

[cdrod]

Awesome, I was immediately drawn to the center caps, very nice touch. I have a friend who did a phenomenal, frame-off restomod on a ‘70 442 and it is absolutely gorgeous.

Did you go 18x8 front, 18x9 rear? I’m wondering if I can squeeze 9” in the front without potential issues.

BTW, I fully intend on putting original style PMD center caps on there;)


TanMan:

I've seen a few cars with the PMD center caps installed on the Bandit rims; they look really nice, I think even better than the Olds caps. The Olds caps are taller, the PMD caps are more flat. I'm running 245|45 tires on 18x8 on the front & 285|40 tires on 18x9 on the rear. I don't think the 9" wide cast U-109 Bandits will fit on the front of an A-body, the offset will push the tire 5/16" farther out into the fender. The forged version U-304 can be ordered with custom offsets, but they are considerably more expensive than the cast U-109s

[68Formula]

From the post by OLDFLM, this guy is running 9s in the front: https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/63712-1972-grand-prix

I saw a same vintage Monte Carlo this weekend with 255 fronts. Don't forget, switching from discs to drums pushes the wheels out around .25", so make sure you have your brakes mounted before you measure. Worst case, if the 9" U109s were too deep (which I highly doubt), you could stay with a 245 and use a 1/4" to 5/16" spacer.

Remember to take all your wheel/tire measurements with the correct brakes and suspension components you intend to use. And then it doesn't hurt to take them again once the wheels are in, before you mount tires.

[TanMan]

Interesting that you mention spacers. Are those a bit unsafe, or can they be done properly? I would guess longer, stronger studs would be a must.

[68Formula]

Interesting that you mention spacers. Are those a bit unsafe, or can they be done properly? I would guess longer, stronger studs would be a must.

Probably going to need longer studs anyway. Spacers are fine if you don't go very thick (1/4" to 5/16" is fine). Much thicker than that, then you need the ones that are concentric and have their own stud pattern built in.

[NOMOREWORK]

Don't know how far along you are with your wheel choice, I'm using American racing 17x9 with 245-45-17 fronts and 275-40-17 rears on my 77 Buick Regal with no clearance issues.

[TanMan]

Nice, that is exactly the wheel size and tire sizes I had settled on.

Limited by making the ‘70 Grand Prix appear stock-ish by purchasing aluminum Rally II 17x9 wheels, I found the sizes you mentioned to be the widest I could get away with. FYI, I couldn’t find the Rally II style wheel any wider or larger than 17x9.

Has anyone squeezed a wider tire than 245 on the front of an A-body without extra/custom wheel backspacing? Same question on the rear with 275 width...

[STREETFIGHTER50]

Well as an owner of a big Pontiac that still weighs 3960 with an LS7, don't let that stop you. You don't have to go completely overboard spending money to upgrade your car to have a ton of fun. Smart investments in good quality suspension such as Global West, adjustable shocks, 17" or 18" wheels and a 200 treadwear tire will get you pretty far. You already have either a 400 or 455 in the GP so that's handled. Spend wisely and go have fun.166822

What a sick build! Love everything about it!

[STREETFIGHTER50]

Ain’t nothing wrong with being different. Have fun with the build!

[Interceptor5588]

Nice, that is exactly the wheel size and tire sizes I had settled on.

Limited by making the ‘70 Grand Prix appear stock-ish by purchasing aluminum Rally II 17x9 wheels, I found the sizes you mentioned to be the widest I could get away with. FYI, I couldn’t find the Rally II style wheel any wider or larger than 17x9.

Has anyone squeezed a wider tire than 245 on the front of an A-body without extra/custom wheel backspacing? Same question on the rear with 275 width...

I run 255/45r17's on the front and P285/40r17's rear of a 70 GTO and they fit fine, touch the front swaybar a little but it's a big bar. Year One Rally 2 17x8/9.

[anguilla1980]

I'm running the US Mags Rally II look-a-likes with the PMD centers, pics are in the link in my sig.

On my 69 Firebird I went with 17x8 front (4.500 backspacing), 17x9 rear (5.250" backspacing). 235/45/17 front, 255/50/17 rear. I was playing it safe. I test fit the rears w/tires on the front and I could have rocked that. I do have Hotchkis upper and lower a-arms and a 1/4" spacer with my Wilwood front brakes so maybe that makes the difference. I test fit the rear without the spacer I think. When my new tires wear out, I'll buy a set of 17x9s for the front and sell the 17x8s.

[7T400Formula]

Love this thread, always good to see a Pontiac build! I'm saving for parts to do my '70 Formula, hoping to go UMI, with aluminium headed stroker, rebuilt TH400 and Year One Rallye IIs. I'm in England, so EVERYTHING is expensive, including gas! A poor $/£ exchange rate and killer import fees are hurting things right now. But I will get there. I did consider starting with a lighter car, but like you said, love the car, can't part with it!

[TanMan]

I run 255/45r17's on the front and P285/40r17's rear of a 70 GTO and they fit fine, touch the front swaybar a little but it's a big bar. Year One Rally 2 17x8/9.

Ok, great to hear we can squeeze a 255/45r17 on the front. I just may do a 255/40r17 on the front (a tad shorter) just to maximize tread width. I have the Year One Rally II 17x9s as well- just haven’t mounted anything yet.

My dad and I built 2 ‘70 GTOs back in the ‘90s, what I wouldn’t give to still have one of those beasts!

[TanMan]

I'm running the US Mags Rally II look-a-likes with the PMD centers, pics are in the link in my sig.

On my 69 Firebird I went with 17x8 front (4.500 backspacing), 17x9 rear (5.250" backspacing). 235/45/17 front, 255/50/17 rear. I was playing it safe. I test fit the rears w/tires on the front and I could have rocked that. I do have Hotchkis upper and lower a-arms and a 1/4" spacer with my Wilwood front brakes so maybe that makes the difference. I test fit the rear without the spacer I think. When my new tires wear out, I'll buy a set of 17x9s for the front and sell the 17x8s.

Love the Firebird- I’m a sucker for all classic Pontiacs. So with a 1/4” spacer, the 255/50r17 fit up front? Sounds like a tall and wide tire, I was considering the same except maybe a 40 series.

[TanMan]

Ain’t nothing wrong with being different. Have fun with the build!

168811 Different, you say? Yep, there’s nothing quite like this one..

[TanMan]

Love this thread, always good to see a Pontiac build! I'm saving for parts to do my '70 Formula, hoping to go UMI, with aluminium headed stroker, rebuilt TH400 and Year One Rallye IIs. I'm in England, so EVERYTHING is expensive, including gas! A poor $/£ exchange rate and killer import fees are hurting things right now. But I will get there. I did consider starting with a lighter car, but like you said, love the car, can't part with it!

Glad to hear there’s muscle car interest across the pond. I too, love the Pontiacs. The aluminum headed stroker- you talking about a 400 block to start with? I have a ton of parts you might be interested in, too bad you are like 5,000 miles away..

[Interceptor5588]

Different, you say? Yep, there’s nothing quite like this one..

Epic badass look with fat tires

[c4racer2]

I keep thinking about building a 70-72 Monte Carlo with either a big block or a 400+ in small block as a highway bruiser.

Lower it 2” - needs probably 255/285 tires

AC. Modern seats. Kick ass stereo.

Would love to have that in the weekend road trip rotation. I think the wife would like it. That’s one of those things you just don’t know until you try it right ?

[TanMan]

I highly recommend it. The Monte Carlo is the Grand Prix’s cousin, so much in common. I have a ton of parts for these cars if you ever get around to it.

[anguilla1980]

Love the Firebird- I’m a sucker for all classic Pontiacs. So with a 1/4” spacer, the 255/50r17 fit up front? Sounds like a tall and wide tire, I was considering the same except maybe a 40 series.

I test fit without the spacer, it would not have cleared the fender lip with the spacer.

I only went with the taller sidewall for a little comfort and I like the look.

[68Formula]

Yeah One Rally's only have a 5" backspace (whereas the US Mags are 5.25"). If anything you might be tight to the outside fender (front and rear). Be sure to mount the rims once you have the new brakes on, and measure carefully to decide on final tire width.

[c4racer2]

I highly recommend it. The Monte Carlo is the Grand Prix’s cousin, so much in common. I have a ton of parts for these cars if you ever get around to it.

I prefer the 66-67 chevelle or lemans body style but the Monte can be found for half the price as a starting point. Which leaves a lot more $ for the good stuff you know ?

[BrownGeoff]

Hey TanMan - have you progressed anymore on this build at all?

[Alwhite00]

Love that body style. I still remember being 5 years old and with my mom picking up a 70 (1973 or so) and sitting on the passenger door sill looking over the roof at her talking to the salesman. It was a pale yellow with tan interior. I remember it being a SJ. Great car, ride great and decent power. By 1980 the tin worm had did its job.��. I always liked the GP door handles.

[MonzaRacer]

Basically same size as 70-72 Monte, and barely carries at best 300-500lbs more than Chevelle. BUILD ITT

[andrewb70]

Love those years Grand Prix!!!

If you don't want to build it, sell it to me, I will!

Andrew

[TanMan]

What’s up guys, it’s been a long while since I posted b/c I have been moving to a new house and renovating the old one. That, on top of a tornado in our city and the impact of Coronavirus.... well needless to say my project got put on major hold for months. But before all of that madness I was able to get a ton of work done.

Never fear though- this 1970 beauty has been getting the best 50 year birthday gift she could ever receive. Within the limits of my budget, of course.

After much research and reading these forums (thanks a whole lot to all of you), I committed to the following as phase 1:

-RideTech suspension front and rear; coilovers, a-arms, sway bars, control arms, drop spindles, etc.

-Baer Track4 brake system: 13” rotors on the front, SS4/12” rotors on the rear, Wilwood 15/16” master cylinder (manual brakes)

-Turn One 12:1 steering box, Ridetech linkages, which I believe are possibly Moog

-Year One 17” x 9” aluminum wheels (Pontiac Rallye II style, of course) with Falken Azenis RT615K 275/40r17 all around

-Ford 9”, 3.50 gears with an Eaton Truetrac, 31 spline axles, all from Quick Performance and built to hold too much HP

-“Frame ON” restoration (here’s where it gets painful), I took the frame and engine compartment down to the metal, primed, painted, just trying to preserve not win awards, restored gas tank, new sending unit

So, what was left to do when winter hit and the project entered its extended/current pause:

-install master cylinder, fabricate/install all brake lines: 3/16” NiCopp
-fabricate/install fuel lines: 1/2” NiCopp
-adjust suspension: ride height, shock valving, steering alignment

This has been such an enjoyable project, just wish I knew when I could get back to it.

I don’t have great pictures but here are few:

175294175295175296175297175298175299
175304
175300

[JustJohn]

What side mirrors are you using?

[TanMan]

My dad and I installed those mirrors about 25 years ago. If memory serves me correct, I believe they are actually ‘72 GP mirrors. This is the only thing that we departed from ‘70 on, besides all of my current upgrades. Good eye!

[OLDFLM]

Car looks great! Nice updates!! Need some full sized pics of the whole car...

[Zspoiler]

Remember that Monte Carlos as well as ran in NASCAR

[jimco84x]

Did you do all that in a single bay garage? with other storage stuff in your way too? Wow!! Looks good from here. Hope you survived the tornado without damage. Ya'll have had a few up there lately.

[andrewb70]

What size tires did you end up running?

[Tsaints1115]

Love it.

[Alwhite00]

Looks great, love the wheels, look stock but not. Keep it up man.

[68Formula]

So cool to see the updates. Awesome that you could stuff that much rubber under the front.

[TanMan]

Did you do all that in a single bay garage? with other storage stuff in your way too? Wow!! Looks good from here. Hope you survived the tornado without damage. Ya'll have had a few up there lately.

It’s a two car garage, packed with more family storage items than I care to admit. This has been a huge challenge, but hell, if it was easy it wouldn’t be worth doing.

Thankfully the tornado did not cause damage at our house, but a little too close for comfort. That, Coronavirus, and moving to a new house has all put the GP on hold. I cannot wait to tie up the last few loose ends and get this thing on the road again!

[TanMan]

What size tires did you end up running?

Andrew, I was able to squeeze Falken Azenis RT615K 275/40r17’s all around so we’ll see how the square setup works out. If nothing else, I’ll be able to rotate the tires!

And I went with Year One 17” x 9” aluminum wheels (Pontiac Rallye II). Closest I could come to stock appearance.

[BrownGeoff]

Wow! It looks incredible!

[STREETFIGHTER50]

Awesome progress! You’ve been a busy man! Let’s see them full body pics

[1965gp]

Car looks great! I have 275’s all the way around on my 70 GTO as well and the fit great.

I really like that you are keeping the feel of the Grand Prix (sporty luxury). I have a 65 Grand Prix I swapped a built 455 in that’s a blast to drive.

[trevdogg67]

Looks great keep it up!