distribution 4 stud power block help

[silvermonte]

Hello, Im needing some advice on how to wire for some more keyed ignition sources. Im currently using one for the distributor in my SBC truck with HEI. Im installing an Aeromotive fuel pump that needs the same signal, and also installing a Holley Sniper EFI kit. My first thought was to just tie the two new additions to the HEI wire, but then I figured that would not be the greatest idea. That lead to looking into distribution blocks but I have found a lack on good info on how to do it, that stacked with my limited understanding on how to wire things has me a bit skidish.

[Tsaints1115]

Do NOT tie the power for your Sniper to any other power source. It specifically needs it's own clean power source.

That being said a good option is a mini relay fuse panel like this:

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/46343/EATON-s-Bussmann-15305-2-2-4-Mini-Fuse-Panel-/

They're small enough to fit in the glove box. You'll run the key ignition wire to the fuse panel where it will energize the relays when the key is turned but all the real power is located there. The original circuit will only be responsible to energize the relay. Make sure you use relays with a diode. Doing so will mean each ciruit will only see "clean" power with no interference between each one.

[silvermonte]

Thank you for the response. So I understand what you are saying and how you are explaining it but havnt a clue how to make that happen, which is why i need some sort of wire diagram. Does it get its power from the battery and then the ignition wire just unlocks the replay and then powers the box?

I was originally looking at something like this but all that does it make it easy to attach multiple wires to each other and burn up what ever undersized wire I was going to use. The link you provided Im sure is the correct way to do it, I just dont understand how to do it.

https://www.amazon.com/Fastronix-Power-Distribution-Block-Cover/dp/B079WLX1FM/ref=asc_df_B079WLX1FM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=346785085901&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6628229887500605754&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1015844&hvtargid=pla-751779854871&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=69815303997&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=346785085901&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6628229887500605754&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1015844&hvtargid=pla-751779854871

[ilikeike]

Doesn't the Sniper have it's own fuel pump turn on wire in the sniper harness ?

There's probably a wire for the distributor also. Download and read the instructions,if you don't already have them.

[Tsaints1115]

I've used bussbars before myself when I used to wire fishing boats and they do work but I was wiring them from scratch too.

For something like a car with older,smaller wiring, a relay panel allows you to use the existing wiring but it no longer is stressed from carrying the electrical load. It's strictly used as a signal wire now. It's really not that complicated and once you wire the first circuit it picks up speed from there.

If I can figure how to post pics I'll include some of my panel.

[silvermonte]

Thank you for the help guys, you gave me enough direction to know what to look up and figure it out. I think Im going to get this guy. Gives me 7 keyed sources which will work perfect for what Im needing. From what I was reading it gets power from the battery but needs a keyed source to open then relay, and then power the 7 new ones. I think that will work perfect for what I have.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-70217?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjwmZbpBRAGEiwADrmVXp_lOjTEcUYq9f9NXv1S 7iUUuKRR68n25jzEonaxTERchgtuJR1VsBoCKEcQAvD_BwE

[silvermonte]

Doesn't the Sniper have it's own fuel pump turn on wire in the sniper harness ?

There's probably a wire for the distributor also. Download and read the instructions,if you don't already have them.

Im running an Aeromotive Phantom pump which needs its own keyed source to power it. This is the wire kit I purchased for it.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-16307

[Tsaints1115]

Here's a series of articles that are very good.


http://www.bodenzord.com/archives/597?fbclid=IwAR0yaKcogfuJxpTyHnLYpKE7Vud3ppkNYUwNv U6UWV9rfk90HbBJ92EcXSc

[ilikeike]

Im running an Aeromotive Phantom pump which needs its own keyed source to power it. This is the wire kit I purchased for it.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-16307

That’s a nice kit.
You just hook the red trigger wire of your kit to the EFI fuel pump trigger wire, pretty sure it’s blue on the sniper, check the diagram. It’s blue on my Holley HP, I use it to trigger an in tank pump and painless harness similar to yours.
But it will work just going to the key like you want.
You’ll just have an extra 12volt keyed igniting trigger wire to use for something else if you want I guess.

[silvermonte]

I have no doubts that there are cheaper ways to do things, proof with the what has been linker earlier. Tsaints article is really an interesting read. Im just so inept at wiring crap that Ill pay a premium for something simple, and then I dont have to worry about burning my vehicle to the ground cause I wired something wrong like a noob that was probably electrics 101.

[Tsaints1115]

The relay panel is simple. Each circuit has its own fuse.

Just an fyi. That summit kit has maybe $15 worth of materials for $115.

[ilikeike]

Just FYI,
There are reasons that EFI fuel pumps are hooked to the ECU.

Hooked to your key they way you want to do it, when you turn your key on, your fuel pump will run continuously even when the engine is not cranking or running.

When you turn the key on with fuel system trigger hooked to the ECU, your pump will run for maybe a default setting of 5 seconds or however long you programmed it for to prime the system, then shutoff if your engine isn't running or cranking, and back on when you start cranking the engine to the minimum run rpm.

If you get in an accident, or your fuel line ruptures for some reason and your engine stalls hooked up to your key like you want, fuel will still flow. hooked to the ECU fuel will stop when the engine does. good idea right ?

Like you said," I dont have to worry about burning my vehicle to the ground"


Hooking your trigger wire up to the ECU isn't a cost saving measure, it's the best way to do it.

But like I said before, it will work like you want, but these days there are just better ways to do it when you have an ECU sitting there designed to run any electric pump setup.

[andrewb70]

Do as Tracey has suggested. The Bussmann panel that he suggested has two internal busses. One feeds the 30 terminal of the relay the other feeds the 86 terminal. You supply a 4-6 gauge wire from the battery to the bus that feeds the 30 terminals and connect switched ignition (hot while CRANKING and RUN) to the other bus that feeds the 86 terminals. depending on the circuit, you wire the relays accordingly. So for the HEI, you want the relay grounded and the 86 terminal activated by the key. For the Sniper EFI red/white wire, same thing, etc....

The internal busses make for much tidier wiring compared to the little Painless panel shown (those are basic Delphi parts that can be purchased cheap).

Andrew

[silvermonte]

You just hook the red trigger wire of your kit to the EFI fuel pump trigger wire, pretty sure it’s blue on the sniper, check the diagram.

Ilikeike and Andrew, your logic and experience are 100% correct. I got the instructions out and laid the wires out to figure it out. Like Ike said the blue wire from the Holley kit will hook up to the Aeromotive fuel kit, and just like that it should be much safer. If I had not asked these questions I would of followed Aeromotive's instructions, and like you said Ike, that pump would of ran full time.