what aftermarket subframe will take my current 1st gen components ?

[Dark Pursuit]

I need to replace my original 67 Camaro subframe, but would like to keep my already upgraded components. Is there an aftermarket frame that I can bolt my current upgraded sway bar, tubular a arms, coil-overs, and Brakes onto ?

[Z06vet]

Why not get a new AMD stock replacement subframe?

[Dark Pursuit]

I need some more room for my front tire / wheel combo to not rub at full turn. And I want to stop dragging the center support that leads the tires on my lowered suspension. And to avoid having to weld all the joints of stock frame again

[68Formula]

Check with Speedtech.

[Dark Pursuit]

I checked with speedtech , their subframe uses only their proprietary suspension and steering components

[Z06vet]

What brand components are you running, and what size tire would you like to run up front? 265 is doable on a 67/68 without a lot of work, and Ive seen a few w 275s. What exactly is dragging? Are you rubbing the frame or sway bar? And how low is it?

[Dark Pursuit]

QA1 coilovers on Global West a-arms, dropped 2.5 inches, on stock drum spindles with 13" C4 rotors, steering with late IROC steering box and short 67 steering arms. My 235 x 40 x 18 tires n 8"wheels with 4.5 offset rub frame at full turn

[Chad-1stGen]

There aren't any aftermarket frames that give the additional tire clearance you are looking for that will allow you to use those parts. Excepting maybe the brakes. I was in a similar place as you and decided to sell my original frame with all of the upgraded aftermarket parts and bought a complete aftermarket frame setup.

[Z06vet]

You should be able to run that tire size without issue. Does the tire rub on the front side, back side, or both? The backspacing sounds about right, but I have not run that brake/spindle combo before. Try a 1/4" wheel spacer and see what effect that has.

[dhutton]

You should be able to run that tire size without issue.

X2. Sounds like you need some steering stops.

Don

[Dark Pursuit]

Id like to keep turn radius and ride height. still have subframe drag before tires. looking for constructive help please

[dhutton]

Id like to keep turn radius and ride height. still have subframe drag before tires. looking for constructive help please

My suggestion was constructive, you just didn’t like it.

Those tires should work without issue. I’ve run a 255 on the stock subframe without rubbing.

If you are dragging the subframe crossmember then your car must be very low.

Good luck with your quest, or is it a pursuit....

Don

[Z06vet]

I have never dragged a subframe on 2.5" drop. Show us some pics

[stab6902]

You could "notch" the stock subframe for additional tire clearance at full lock. Sounds like CPP has a kit in the works.

From this article: https://www.hotrod.com/articles/1906-high-tech-meets-classic-1967-camaro-built-by-classic-performance-products/

"CPP accomplished this feat with a side-notch kit on the front clip. This is a new product designed by CPP engineer Danny Nix that allows a 315 tire to fit up front. While not yet available, CPP is working to bring the kit to market as soon as possible. “We’ll put it in production the first chance we get,” said Ries. “It’ll be easy to do for guys that like fabrication. It’s a very straightforward install.”

Regarding how to get additional front crossmember ground clearance, I don't have any fast answers, but as others have said, your car must be super low to be having that issue.

[dhutton]

You lost your steering stops when you replaced the factory lower control arms. You are not sacrificing turn radius when you add stops that stop it just short of hitting the subframe. There should be no need to notch the subframe for a 235 tire.

Don

[Dark Pursuit]

Thanks Ryan, I was considering notching the frame. But I did not know about the kit. This is my 5th 1st gen, and my most invested. Frame cross member is not the issue, it is the 10" piece in the center that has dragged on all of my cars at most speed bumps, as it extends out before the front tires. Maybe Ill just remove and replace with 1/4 in plate if no aftermarket frame can accept my upgrades. My frame is bent, so will need replacement anyways.

[stab6902]

I also have 235/40R18's on 18x8 rims with 4.5" backspacing and a 2.5" drop on stock A-arms, and there's a tiny bit of rubbing at full lock. It's not enough to matter; it hardly even scuffs the paint on the subframe.

If it were my car, I'd take Don's suggestion and add some steering stops. Way cheaper and easier than modifying/getting another subframe, and you'll probably end up with 99% of the max steering lock of a stock car.

If I remember correctly I have 3.5" of crossmember clearance, which has never been a problem for me.

[stab6902]

Thanks Ryan, I was considering notching the frame. But I did not know about the kit. This is my 5th 1st gen, and my most invested. Frame cross member is not the issue, it is the 10" piece in the center that has dragged on all of my cars at most speed bumps, as it extends out before the front tires. Maybe Ill just remove and replace with 1/4 in plate if no aftermarket frame can accept my upgrades. My frame is bent, so will need replacement anyways.

Got it, your question makes more sense with this additional context.

[Dark Pursuit]

Yeh, same amount for me, which I dealt with before the car was totaled, Just want to eliminate on build number 2. The brace drag has always me, and it seems there are 10 speed bumps going into any show.

[stab6902]

Sorry about your car :(

Hopefully your insurance company took care of you.

[Dark Pursuit]

yes , just got check today, think I have found a new platform to rebuild on, lost will move over with screws and bolts. All 3 in car uninjured when rear ended @ about 40mph. Frame connectors save Lives !! But impact from rear literally bent the subrame.

[David Pozzi]

A 235 front tire is skinny and not a good match if your rear tires are 275's. You will have understeer problems that you won't be able to tune out. Ideal front tire size is equal to the rear or one size smaller. Any more difference than that is trouble. The first gen's really need an aftermarket sub to fit a proper tire up front. The rack and pinion steering really isn't a benefit in some ways. They have less lash but are slower ratio and are not as reliable as a box. They do save weight.

You probably don't have any steering stops on your A arms or they are not in the stock position.

[CarlC]

Agree with the comments about 275's front and read, but speaking from much experience in this area, they are very, very tight on a '67-8. The fronts will need a lot of negative camber when using a stock subframe, and the rears require the outer lips rolled at a minimum.

From a rim fitment standpoint, I'm running a 18 x 9.5x 5-3/5" 275/35/18 Michelin Pilot Sport 4s on all four corners. There is occasional rubbing but it's minor, and the lock-to-lock on the front is limited by the tire hitting the subframe.

[Dark Pursuit]

Thanks for the info. I am rolling 265 40 r18 on the rear, and so far my experience on auto x track has been limiting my competition class far more than my car. And I'll gladly place last for some time with a wide grin , 'cause it is damn fun !! But I do not like wasting time and money, So , maybe a tru-turn upgrade on the new frame will be a good prep until I can ditch all my wheels to fit a wider tire on front, ( current wheels are no longer in production, and fronts are only 8" ) The aftermarket sub is what I want to do, but pennies on the dollar sale of my current config is more than my $50k build budget can choke down this time around, hense my desire for a bare frame that will accept them.

[Dark Pursuit]

hmm Maybe i can fit 255x35 18 on my current 8" fronts to match up to 265x40r18 on Rear

[Dark Pursuit]

David,
I have decided on modifying a new stock subframe, and would appreciate your input if I should do anything more, or differently.
New AMD sub - getting Plan "B" G-mod, fully weld seams, notch frame for tire width ( I will up to 255 width), Replace center cross support with 1/4" plate, and add Screamin' Performance jack plate ( the tie down points are indispensable )