Ridetech Contacts

[KnightmareZ]

Anyone here know a good contact for a Ridetech Rep on these boards?
I contacted PT user josh@ridetech with some serious clearance issues about the 4 link cradle via DM 5 months ago.
I still haven't received a response.
Are there any competent reps from Ridetech who would like to discuss this via DM?
I wish Brett's DMs were open

[BonzoHansen]

Did you call them?

[dhutton]

If it is regarding contact with the trunk floor they are going to tell you to take a BFH to the floor and clearance it...

Don

[andrewb70]

Call them!

Andrew

[KnightmareZ]

If it is regarding contact with the trunk floor they are going to tell you to take a BFH to the floor and clearance it...

Don

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/12/26/Notched-New-pan.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/S1k9d)

Thanks Don,
Yeah I had to notch out and reweld the front and back of the trunk pan to make the cradle fit.
I was beginning to wonder if I had the correct parts.
Since you have this system, do you mind if I DM you a few questions?

[KnightmareZ]

Call them!

Andrew


I found their email contacts. They are under the about section on their homepage.
Thanks

[dhutton]

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/12/26/Notched-New-pan.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/S1k9d)

Thanks Don,
Yeah I had to notch out and reweld the front and back of the trunk pan to make the cradle fit.
I was beginning to wonder if I had the correct parts.
Since you have this system, do you mind if I DM you a few questions?

I’ve installed two of them over the years and sold them both. I don’t recall having the interference you are showing. In both cases my interference was the rear of the cradle hitting the ribs on the trunk pan which is a very common complaint.

Not a fan of this suspension....

Don

[KnightmareZ]

The front was way worse than the back.
Was the same on the stock trunk pan and frame rails I took out

[Josh@Ridetech]

Sorry about that, I didn't see the PM with the issues you're talking about. I do my best to keep tabs on those.

The front area that you're having the clearance issue with isn't what I would call common but it has happened before. The variances in that area on these cars are huge, some need a little more "massaging" in that area, and some fall into place without having to do a bit of work. The goal for the cradle is to have the front of the bar up against the body, aligning the reinforcement tab with the pinch weld, and to have the portion out on the frame rails going along the contour of the frame nice and flush.

You're welcome to email me pictures or call me with questions as well.

[KnightmareZ]

The front bar needed over 3/4" clearance to allow it to sit flush with the frame. The rear still needed over 1/2" clearance after hammering the stamped part of the trunk pan out. The tabs on the rear had to be heated and bent to make this fit.
The clearance issues were the same with both the stock trunk pan and the new pan.
Beating an inch of clearance into the trunk pan is far from "massaging" for your claims of a "bolt in" system.
See what Bret said here starting at 0:30 second mark

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYI64So-WCA
Here, I will quote him.
"Well, This is a complete bolt in rear suspension for the early Camaros. A lot of these guys, with the early camaros don't want to cut their car up. You know we've created the air bar system to go, that goes in under the stock floor pan. There's no cutting, uhhhh, there's no welding on the body. There is a little bit of welding on the rear end housing, but not on the body. So, conceivably if at some point you decide to restore the car or go back stock, uhhh, you can take the thing out and put the leaf springs back in, if that's what you want to do."

Anyways, after all this "massaging" to make your product work, I now move to the front where I'm running into more problems.
Here is an Email I sent out to Darren

Darren,
I seem to being running into a lot of issues with your kit and would like your advice.
First, the cradle for the 4 Link.
I had to cut and notch out the trunk pan where both the front and rear bars cross then bend down the back tabs to make this fit.
I was beginning to wonder if this was even the correct part for this car, but it looks identical to what's pictured on your website and in the instructions.
Attached are pics of where I notched out the front and the clearance issue I had in the back
I've now got everything set where the cradle will sit flush to the frame.
* Is this normal for a kit that claims to be "bolt on" with no cutting or welding? Am I missing something here?

TruTurn compatibility
I also notice that the steering stops are tapped on the wrong side of your LCA
* Is Ridetech's TruTurn system not designed to work with their LCA's?
* Should I re-engineer the steering arm and tap the front side of the LCA so this will work?

This is a very expensive kit that is costing me even more in terms of time and fabrication costs to make work.
* Would Ridetech be willing to work with me on recouping these added costs?

A few more questions
I spoke with a Holley rep the other day who said that their Blackheart line of LS swap components are no longer compatible with the TruTurn system due to a change made to the center link.
I was planning to run all of their line because I don't like mixing and matching.
* Is there a way around this on your end? Different center link etc?
* If not, what is compatible with your system?
- Long tube headers?
- Oil pan?
- Engine mounts?
- T56 crossmember?

Thanks

Here is his response

Good morning,
Cradle – On some cars they fall right into place. On other cars we have to “massage” the floor pan a bit with a hammer. We have never had to cut the pan though.

Steering stop - The steering stop bolt hole on the back side of the lower arm is for use with the stock steering arm. The steering arm that is included with the TruTurn upgrade has a steering stop that will contact the front leg of the lower arm, it is not adjustable.

Center link – We did make a change to our centerlink setup on the TruTurn system. It used to include an adapter bracket that bolted to the stock center link that raised the inner tie rods. About 2 years ago we started using our new forged centerlink. This piece actually gives more oil pan clearance than the old setup did. The inner tie rod are virtually in the exact same location (within 1/8”). Clearances with the oil pan and headers vary mostly depending on which engine mounts you use. It “seems” that many of the newer mounts are setup to mount the engine a bit lower and further forward. I have attached a couple pics of from our 67 Camaro w/ the other setup on it (Holley 302-1 pan). Pretty sure we had Dynatech headers on this car originally. I think it has the Ultimate Headers now.

Please help me out on this
I've got the back end situated but moving on to the front end...
Do you have any definites as to what works with your system?
Engine mounts?
Oil pan?
LT headers?
T56 Xmember?

[BlackHD]

Hey KnightmareZ, thanks for posting this info.

I too was wondering about the steering stop. So it seems like if we want to to make it adjustable one would need to tap the front side of the LCA. (tru turn)