1979 "Transmarrow" Mid-engine LQ9 build

[Ddkeeler]

Well my name is Dalton, I have spent a lot of time on this site, in particular the suspension thread. I figured its about time I show some people what I have been working on.

Things on this build just kind of fell into place, I was looking for a new project to start that could give me a sort of rolling business card for the fabrication business I am starting. I thought it would be neat to do a kit car (Like a Factory Five 818) but that is out of the current budget. Well through some vehicle trading, an 2002 Subaru Wrx landed into my possession. I immediately started doing some research on what components are used for their kit cars. and what it would take to build a tube frame from scratch but mimic the overall idea of what Factory Five has done with their 818. As I was looking into all of this I got a call from a friend who owns a body shop, he said he was given a Trans Am that had a pretty rust free body except for the floors. He said I could have the car minus the front subframe assembly. So, I made up my mind that I was going to do an FFR818 with a Trans Am body.

Initially this was going to use the Flat 4 turbo charged engine, but having done a few LS swaps I began looking into what companies if any made adapters for a WRX engine. After contacting several manufacturers and I found a company in Australia that makes the bellhousing adapter and flywheel. It takes about 2 months to get the part so in the time I picked up a mock up block and made a temporary adapter out of plywood. Enough of me rambling, here is a progression over several months.

Just a few things as far as the end goal on this car. We all have to have goals....

Car will have 4-4.5" ride height, and with chopping the roof 3.5" in the back and laying down the A pillar at that ride height the roof will be 44' from the ground.

I am aiming for around an 84" track width, wheelbase of 118"

18 or 19" wheels 305-315 wide square setup

Car is running front and rear spindles from an 02 WRX with some modifications. Push rod suspension.

Subaru WRX 5 speed transaxle, with rear output deleted.

Gen 3 LQ9 6.0 with L92 heads, plan is to run the bald eagle cam from Texas Speed. As of right now I am thinking of using either the Holley hi ram, or Edelbrock crossram intake. Hoping to see around 550hp at the crank

I hope all said and done I am somewhere between 2200-2500 pounds minus driver.



I will try and regularly update you guys to what I am doing. Rear suspension should be done in the next 2-3 weeks minus having coilovers.










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[Tincup]

That's an aggressive project, good luck....

[cornfedbill]

Wow. Cool project. I am interested to see how this progresses.

[mikeyhunts]

Awesomeness!

[ryeguy2006a]

Very cool! That paint looks original, and if that is the case it was a 10th anniversary Trans Am (TATA).

[lilian]

suscribing !!

[Ddkeeler]

I was told the car was in decent shape when it was parked, some kids vandalized it and broke all the windows then chickens made their home in it. It came with the fender vents and the shaker hood scoop so I would say you’re correct. I have not done to much checking into it.

[Sbeck09]

This thing is going to be bananas! Can't wait to see how this turns out. You and I have similar hopes for our projects, but yours is definitely way more aggressive.

[JustJohn]

How will you pull the engine when this is complete?

[jlcustomz]

The other cool projects here just got a little less interesting.
New top profile is looking awesome, don't remember seeing a 2nd gen f-body chop top before. Not too many on google search.
Gotta do some 180 headers with this for sound.
I'd do the crossram intake.
Definitely interested to see progress on this one.

[Cop Magnet]

Nice project!

[Ddkeeler]

How will you pull the engine when this is complete?

It is going to have a removable deck lid, and I am also doing removable rear louvers I will post a picture of the type of louvers I’m doing. With the way I did the tube work I will be able to service everything except replacing pistons and crank. Cam swaps will be able to be done in the vehicle.

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This thing is going to be bananas! Can't wait to see how this turns out. You and I have similar hopes for our projects, but yours is definitely way more aggressive.

I’ll have to check your build out tonight when I have some time.

[Ddkeeler]

The other cool projects here just got a little less interesting.
New top profile is looking awesome, don't remember seeing a 2nd gen f-body chop top before.
Gotta do some 180 headers with this for sound.
Definitely interested to see progress on this one.

If I didn’t do 180 degree headers I feel like I would be committing some horrible crime. Lol.

[cornfedbill]

If I didn’t do 180 degree headers I feel like I would be committing some horrible crime. Lol.

Yup. It's required for a rear engine V8...

[Ddkeeler]

I do have a question for you guys. This engine will use a WRX clutch that works with the flywheel from the Subaru gears swap kit. I am trying to get some insight as to what I should look for in a clutch that is strong enough to hold around 550 crank hp and have an on/off type engagement vs having a large degree of slip.

I have never uprgraded from a stock clutch on any of my vehicles. So I am kind of lost in all the different varieties.

[Motown 454]

Nice project!

[Sbeck09]

I do have a question for you guys. This engine will use a WRX clutch that works with the flywheel from the Subaru gears swap kit. I am trying to get some insight as to what I should look for in a clutch that is strong enough to hold around 550 crank hp and have an on/off type engagement vs having a large degree of slip.

I have never uprgraded from a stock clutch on any of my vehicles. So I am kind of lost in all the different varieties.

Outside of a pure track only car, I've avoided on/off type clutches like the plague. They are VERY tricky to drive smoothly. I just had to commit to a twin disc clutch today for my engine with about the same power level since my standard stage 1 clutch just won't last long. But I'll have an easy pedal with smooth engagement for street or track this way. The on/off clutches are typically very small in diameter attached to special lightweight flywheels to allow motorcycle-like throttle response. They don't last long with slipping either.

What's the end goal for this car as far as where it will be used?

[Ddkeeler]

It will do autocross and some time attack duty. Might commute to car shows with it. Very little city driving.

[1stgenchop]

This is next level! I love it.

[69stang]

I'm loving this build. Very interested in how it progresses. I'm wanting to do something similar with a Mustang II and a Ford 3.7 Cyclone V6 engine from a Mazda 6, putting it behind the seats and changing the quarter windows to GT40 MK1 style engine intake openings/scoops. I'm currently keeping my eyes open for a deal on a decent car to start with. Subscribing.

[jimco84x]

This project seems like the opioid enhanced dream of a delusional metal working madman. Sign me up!!!! Excellent project. Go big or go home!!

[Shawn0331]

I do have a question for you guys. This engine will use a WRX clutch that works with the flywheel from the Subaru gears swap kit. I am trying to get some insight as to what I should look for in a clutch that is strong enough to hold around 550 crank hp and have an on/off type engagement vs having a large degree of slip.

I have never uprgraded from a stock clutch on any of my vehicles. So I am kind of lost in all the different varieties.

Not quite sure what you mean by on/off type of clutch but i daily'd my 02 wrx for years with a puck clutch and lightened flywheel. Those can easily handle that type of power and once you get a good feel for the clutch i could take off smooth with no judder. Also i would look into swapping jdm sti gear sets or ppg gears into the wrx 5 speed, or sell it and buy the STI 6 speed. 1-2 are like glass and even with the original 4 cylinder its a guarantee they will shatter with anything over 300hp. the Stock 6 speeds are bullet proof but you will need to get STI knuckles/hubs since the axles are bigger. Awesome project by the way! this thing is going to turn out awesome.

[Ddkeeler]

Not quite sure what you mean by on/off type of clutch but i daily'd my 02 wrx for years with a puck clutch and lightened flywheel. Those can easily handle that type of power and once you get a good feel for the clutch i could take off smooth with no judder. Also i would look into swapping jdm sti gear sets or ppg gears into the wrx 5 speed, or sell it and buy the STI 6 speed. 1-2 are like glass and even with the original 4 cylinder its a guarantee they will shatter with anything over 300hp. the Stock 6 speeds are bullet proof but you will need to get STI knuckles/hubs since the axles are bigger. Awesome project by the way! this thing is going to turn out awesome.

Thank you all for the kind words. I’ll say I am little surprised there has not been any “what the hell are you doing to that car” sort of comments.

The on/off type engagement that is an talking about is where from a stop and there is very little easing into going. I am fine with shudders and whatever come along with it. I plan on upgrading to some better gear sets. A straight cut gear set, I believe Subaru gears makes a set so I may look into that, once it is a driver. What clutch did you run?

Until I get a hold of a large stack of cash and can afford a mendola or something this will have to suffice.

[jlcustomz]

If you've ever seen my camaro nose el camino project which is now being widebodied along with a c-7 z06 vette rear bumper, you'd know I am in no way qualified to ask what the hell are you doing---unless I see something I can advise on. Some of us need to do a little crazy to make everyone else seem more normal.
I though I posted something for you about clutches yesterday, think I forgot to hit enter. again. Anyway organic are your basic clutch compounds, then moving up into the metallic which may contain ceramic, Kevlar etc. The puck styles as Shawn mentioned are the less girlfriend friendly grippier types which is more of what you need. A good balanced unit against a good true flywheel driven properly won't shutter much. If available, which would be more pricey, twin or even triple disc units can offer way more grip without needing overly heavy pressure plate springs.

[Ddkeeler]

If you've ever seen my camaro nose el camino project which is now being widebodied along with a c-7 z06 vette rear bumper, you'd know I am in no way qualified to ask what the hell are you doing---unless I see something I can advise on. Some of us need to do a little crazy to make everyone else seem more normal.
I though I posted something for you about clutches yesterday, think I forgot to hit enter. again. Anyway organic are your basic clutch compounds, then moving up into the metallic which may contain ceramic, Kevlar etc. The puck styles as Shawn mentioned are the less girlfriend friendly grippier types which is more of what you need. A good balanced unit against a good true flywheel driven properly won't shutter much. If available, which would be more pricey, twin or even triple disc units can offer way more grip without needing overly heavy pressure plate springs.

Great info, thank you. I’ll do some digging and see what I can come up with. How accurate are the horsepower ratings that the manufacturers put on them?

I’ll check out your build, that sounds awesome. I’m just trying to step outside of the norm. I’m trying to fabricate everything that I can vs purchasing brackets, exhaust, fuel cell etc. I have a small cnc plasma table that should help me accomplish that. I figure I can cut the cost of the build drastically this way.

[jlcustomz]

As far as many hp ratings on clutches, I'd say most are fair, though hard to say how long they can last under abuse near that actual rating, which also means it's good to have one over rated for your needs.. With any clutch, if it's not excessively slipped & grips tight enough to not slip under full power, it could live a good life.
Just like with batteries, there are only really a few actual manufacturers, but so many different ways the are specked out. LUK is a main one. Also to mention , there are some clutch repair shops that can reconfigure & upgrade clutch pads, pressure plate springs, swap input spline sections, etc.

[Ddkeeler]

As far as many hp ratings on clutches, I'd say most are fair, though hard to say how long they can last under abuse near that actual rating, which also means it's good to have one over rated for your needs.. With any clutch, if it's not excessively slipped & grips tight enough to not slip under full power, it could live a good life.
Just like with batteries, there are only really a few actual manufacturers, but so many different ways the are specked out. LUK is a main one. Also to mention , there are some clutch repair shops that can reconfigure & upgrade clutch pads, pressure plate springs, swap input spline sections, etc.

Very interesting, that is a lot of good info!

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As far as many hp ratings on clutches, I'd say most are fair, though hard to say how long they can last under abuse near that actual rating, which also means it's good to have one over rated for your needs.. With any clutch, if it's not excessively slipped & grips tight enough to not slip under full power, it could live a good life.
Just like with batteries, there are only really a few actual manufacturers, but so many different ways the are specked out. LUK is a main one. Also to mention , there are some clutch repair shops that can reconfigure & upgrade clutch pads, pressure plate springs, swap input spline sections, etc.

Very interesting, that is a lot of good info!

[Ddkeeler]

So over the past couple days I have been working on designing the rear suspension on the car. I’ve had to make a couple conversion parts, but the hard design work had been done by Factory five. I just duplicated what I saw on their diagram for the part. The front two bars had me thinking for a while. But this is what I came up with.

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[Sbeck09]

I now have serious tool envy. I want a small CNC plasma so bad. Nice work there.

That arm layout looks so odd to me after I look at more traditional control arm setups (pure observation, I see nothing wrong). Are you somewhat following the factory control arm layout from the Subie?

[Ddkeeler]

It is based off of the 818 kit cars design and they basically followed Subaru’s design. With a modified spindle and replacing the strut with an upper control arm. I am trying to follow the basic concept based solely off what I have seen in these pictures and the limited knowledge I have from studying suspension design and tuning. What could go wrong 😳


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[ryeguy2006a]

Will the blue steel frame be part of the car when finished or is that your frame table?

[Ddkeeler]

Will the blue steel frame be part of the car when finished or is that your frame table?

I used it for both the table and the frame.

[Shawn0331]

Thank you all for the kind words. I’ll say I am little surprised there has not been any “what the hell are you doing to that car” sort of comments.

The on/off type engagement that is an talking about is where from a stop and there is very little easing into going. I am fine with shudders and whatever come along with it. I plan on upgrading to some better gear sets. A straight cut gear set, I believe Subaru gears makes a set so I may look into that, once it is a driver. What clutch did you run?

Until I get a hold of a large stack of cash and can afford a mendola or something this will have to suffice.

Perfect! you will be fine them with that setup. Mine was the Exedy 6 puck with their lightened fly wheel which was around 12 lbs. I dont remember the hp rating but it was waaaaay more than what my car needed.

[Ddkeeler]

Perfect! you will be fine them with that setup. Mine was the Exedy 6 puck with their lightened fly wheel which was around 12 lbs. I dont remember the hp rating but it was waaaaay more than what my car needed.


Something like this seems to fit what you’re describing. Based off the specs it should work. https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/single-disc-clutches/act-sb9-hdg6-act-heavy-duty-6-puck-disc-clutch-kit

[Bugzilla]

Glad to see another mid engine conversion on here! We are a rare breed. I was thinking about doing a 2nd gen next. You will love the traction from all the weight back there but will probably hate the amount of low speed under steering its going to have. Following this build for sure! Ohh and solid hub 6 pucks arent that bad. Thats what I run. Just takes some getting used to. I went with a Spec clutch setup and recommend them.

[Ddkeeler]

Glad to see another mid engine conversion on here! We are a rare breed. I was thinking about doing a 2nd gen next. You will love the traction from all the weight back there but will probably hate the amount of low speed under steering its going to have. Following this build for sure! Ohh and solid hub 6 pucks arent that bad. Thats what I run. Just takes some getting used to. I went with a Spec clutch setup and recommend them.

I am going to be running a large front spoiler and there will be an air dam that flows up over the hood. I am hoping that my high speed downforce will keep it from lifting in the front. I’m hoping since the wheelbase is 118” and almost all the weight is between the wheels it will be pretty well balanced.

I’ll check out spec clutch and see what they have for my application. I hope more people start doing the conversions, especially if the mid engine corvette does end up getting released.

[Bugzilla]

I am going to be running a large front spoiler and there will be an air dam that flows up over the hood. I am hoping that my high speed downforce will keep it from lifting in the front. I’m hoping since the wheelbase is 118” and almost all the weight is between the wheels it will be pretty well balanced.

I’ll check out spec clutch and see what they have for my application. I hope more people start doing the conversions, especially if the mid engine corvette does end up getting released.

I just added some front aero to my car. Havent tested it yet. Need to get stiff rear springs too. Hoping to get rid of most of the understeer.

I have a feeling you will have a better weight distribution then me since 1 - you went the longitude route and 2 - your engine weighs a lot more then mine and is way farther forward. Should be a well balanced car when you are done!

What are you doing interior wise for an engine compartment?

[1965gp]

Very cool project! See if the vin starts with 2X...... if so then it is a real 10th Anniversary Trans Am. Some will give you hell about but almost all of them were saved so I wouldn’t sweat it. I once found two in a pick a part on the same day.

[Ddkeeler]

I just added some front aero to my car. Havent tested it yet. Need to get stiff rear springs too. Hoping to get rid of most of the understeer.

I have a feeling you will have a better weight distribution then me since 1 - you went the longitude route and 2 - your engine weighs a lot more then mine and is way farther forward. Should be a well balanced car when you are done!

What are you doing interior wise for an engine compartment?

How much does your car weigh? I bet that thing rips.

It is going to be mostly open, I will have the bulkhead in front of the engine and I will have a full length belly pan beyond that nothing really. There probably won’t be much inner skin left in the car.

[Jaymzz]

Nice build! I have been back and forth with my Blazer about being mid engine and looking at rear transmissions. Didn't even think about using a Subaru transmission. Hmmm wonder if my wife would notice if her transmission was gone. lol

[Ddkeeler]

Very cool project! See if the vin starts with 2X...... if so then it is a real 10th Anniversary Trans Am. Some will give you hell about but almost all of them were saved so I wouldn’t sweat it. I once found two in a pick a part on the same day.


I just looked at the vin, it is indeed a 2x. By the time I’m done there will be very little resemblance to a trans am. It’s basically just a shell for the chassis I wanted to design. If that makes any sense.

[Ddkeeler]

Nice build! I have been back and forth with my Blazer about being mid engine and looking at rear transmissions. Didn't even think about using a Subaru transmission. Hmmm wonder if my wife would notice if her transmission was gone. lol


It was about the cheapest option at a transaxle. The only other relatively cheap one would be corvette transaxle. But due to the location of the output shafts it would really affect driver and passenger seating locations. Without extending the rear wheels back even further.

Haha, I think you could get one for under $200 at a junkyard. If you were to an LS in front of it you’re looking at another 1000$ for the adapter kit.

[Bugzilla]

How much does your car weigh? I bet that thing rips.

It is going to be mostly open, I will have the bulkhead in front of the engine and I will have a full length belly pan beyond that nothing really. There probably won’t be much inner skin left in the car.

I havent weighed it yet but my guesstimate is 2200 lbs. 5 lbs per hp is what I was shooting for and I think I'm there. It is a blast for sure. You have a weight goal in mind for yours?

So no firewall between engine and you? If so, it's going to be a hot ride! Even with my insulated engine compartment, it gets super hot inside if you aren't moving. No need for a heater Haha.

[Ddkeeler]

I havent weighed it yet but my guesstimate is 2200 lbs. 5 lbs per hp is what I was shooting for and I think I'm there. It is a blast for sure. You have a weight goal in mind for yours?

So no firewall between engine and you? If so, it's going to be a hot ride! Even with my insulated engine compartment, it gets super hot inside if you aren't moving. No need for a heater Haha.

I hope to be around 2200-2500 but we will see. It’s really going to be a stretch to accomplish that.

There will be a firewall/bulkhead in front of the engine. I am going to use aluminum panels that can be removed so that I can work on the engine. The drivers compartment will be sealed off from the engine bay, I am also going to use some vents to help evacuate the hot air from in the engine compartment.


This is the basic layout for that firewall, gussets and possibly two more tubes may be added.
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And here is what I am thinking for a rear window, but will have the shape of the of the c7 corvette rear window. Along with some intake vents along the b pillar (Eleanor style) I’m hoping air will flow through there pretty good.

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[Ddkeeler]

I can't seem to get the video saved in the proper format so I will link it to my page. https://www.instagram.com/p/BvXRo-5gv4Z/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet

Here is one side completed, Everything is tacked into place. I checked how it went through its motions and I was pretty happy with the result. I Had a pivot point in the wrong point causing the the wheel to lose all camber going up (+) when it should be negative. Now the other side should be cake since I have already designed and cut out all the parts needed.

I have to make some bell cranks for my suspension, I have been trying to figure out what type of bearing to run on the pivot point, I think I found a good needle bearing with a thrust bearing on it. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3080 I am just not sure if I need a perfectly machined surface for the thrust to press against. Does a special type of bolt need to be used other than the obvious Grade 8? If anyone has an experience making or even servicing them, dropping some knowledge would be much appreciated.

I am also going to need to design a wheel mock up gauge that can hold a tire so that I can do all the quarter panel sheet metal work. Or has anyone ever used one that a company sells?

[Boosted Falcon]

I have a 818R track car let me know if you need additional information.

[Boosted Falcon]

I second the the WRX 5 speed issues with over 300hp and 300ftlbs The guys with hot rodded Subarus and 818's have issues, 3rd gear mostly.

[Ddkeeler]

I have a 818R track car let me know if you need additional information.

Have you had any trans issues? Do you happen to have measurements on the front upper spindle bracket? I have gone through their instruction manuals but I couldn’t find and info on the the front spindle.

[D-Man]

Love the concept. A few weeks ago I saw someone comment that the state of art for these old muscle cars has pretty much reached the limit suspension wise. Which struck me as odd I've seen very few transaxle builds let alone mid-engine. A mid-engine build was actually the first thing that popped into mind. Then a few days I saw a good article on the advantages of the mid-engine configuration showed up in my inbox and today your thread pops onto my radar. One question though. You mentioned autocross. How's that going to work with a 84" track width? That's more than 20 inches wider than a stock Camaro and those cones look pretty tight to me.

Here's that article. https://www.corvetteonline.com/features/andy-pilgrim-explains-the-benefits-of-a-mid-engine-corvette/

[Ddkeeler]

Love the concept. A few weeks ago I saw someone comment that the state of art for these old muscle cars has pretty much reached the limit suspension wise. Which struck me as odd I've seen very few transaxle builds let alone mid-engine. A mid-engine build was actually the first thing that popped into mind. Then a few days I saw a good article on the advantages of the mid-engine configuration showed up in my inbox and today your thread pops onto my radar. One question though. You mentioned autocross. How's that going to work with a 84" track width? That's more than 20 inches wider than a stock Camaro and those cones look pretty tight to me.

Here's that article. https://www.corvetteonline.com/features/andy-pilgrim-explains-the-benefits-of-a-mid-engine-corvette/

I haven’t seen to many mod engine conversions either, specifically longitudinally. My thought is with being so much wider is that the mid engine layout will help with turning response. My center over gravity will be very low and my roll center will be pretty close to me cog so it should stay pretty flat. Time attack on a road course is what really interests me most. That article has some really good info and history. I am excited for the new c8. Not that I’ll be able to afford anything like that.

[cornfedbill]

And here is what I am thinking for a rear window, but will have the shape of the of the c7 corvette rear window. Along with some intake vents along the b pillar (Eleanor style) I’m hoping air will flow through there pretty good.

I like the louver concept. I would not have any rear window, but leave it open.

This is a very interesting build.

[jlcustomz]

look at post #26530 on p1327 of random transportation thread.

[Ddkeeler]

look at post #26530 on p1327 of random transportation thread.

Wow, I just checked that out. I’d have to figure how to make something like that. But it would be perfect. Thanks for sharing.

[cornfedbill]

look at post #26530 on p1327 of random transportation thread.

Yup. That's cool.

[BMR Sales]

look at post #26530 on p1327 of random transportation thread.

at least I know people check out the Thread! lol :pics2:

[jlcustomz]

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TC has some useful stuff in there. Sometimes random turns into hits the nail on the head. I think he checks out our stuff too.

2nd pic would be a much easier to fabricate option.

[ed1le]

Subscribed!

[Ddkeeler]

I’ve been. Little busy the past few weeks so it has taken a while to get things done.

I got all the driver side rear suspension pieces cut out and assembled i have everything tacked in place in case I need to move some things down the road.

This last weekend I kind of got a game plan on what I want to front end to look like. The tape is the easiest way for me to visualize things. 163392163393163394163395

[qnitro]

This is nuts.. subscribed

[bkbkbk]

Wow, this is amazing. Can't wait to see more!

[mikeyhunts]

Super cool!

[Ddkeeler]

I have decided against running a 345 for the time being. But I will design around running those in the future.

I picked up two “used” Michelin super sports 285/35/20. Two for $350 which I thought was a pretty good deal. I will be putting my wheel order in soon. Rotiform RSE 20x10 offset of 25. with a Subaru 5x100 pattern
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Does anyone have any ideas for a rear spoiler design. I was kind of thinking an adjustable stock style rear spoiler. Or would I have better luck with a large wing type spoiler. I like the look of the wing type.

[jlcustomz]

Did a little thinking on the spoiler & got 2 lines of thought.

If you did a large pedestal mount wing , I'd say something similar to the lambo countach style, Something fat in the middle that angles off. Pedestal wing could look more aggressive, but would be a little harder to not make look cheesy.
https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&authuser=0&biw=1366&bih=623&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=d8K3XJXcOYbc5gLTsqz4BQ&q=lamborghini+countach+rear+spoiler&oq=lamborghini+countach+rear+&gs_l=img.1.8.0l4j0i30j0i24l4.35297.38937..42083... 0.0..0.99.517.6......1....1..gws-wiz-img.......0i67.pwkSiBdk37g
Roadster shop rampage would be a good visual starting point of a super aggressive f-body pedestal wing.

Other thought here would be basing my thoughts off what I've seen done custom on some early 2nd gen camaro's. The original styling cues of the rear without spoiler were based on sleek Italian design, but looked a little naked. The later 3pc factory spoilers were cool in their time period, but were a bit clunky for a custom, particularly where you're at now. I've seen some sheet metal spoilers that were much longer & lower, which kept some of the intended Italian look, but added back some race aggression. I'll look for example pics.
This Jeff Lily 69 camaro spoiler is sort of what I'm picturing.
https://www.jefflilly.com/build-tips/69-camaro-rear-metal-fab-2/
I may possibly do you a few line drawings to help visualization sometime here.

[Ddkeeler]

That is it! The Jeff Lilly spoiler, i just scanned through it. I’m going to have to re read it a few times. Thanks a bunch.

I do like the rampage pedestal wing. And the whole car is awesome, I’m just not sure I want something that crazy. I’m kind of going for subtle changes. LOL

[jlcustomz]

Another subtle example.163450

[Sbeck09]

Another subtle example.163450

There is little elements of this that I'm not sure about, and I'm not a fan of the giant wheels, but overall I really like this. The more you look at it the more you see little things they integrated into the body.

[Ddkeeler]

Another subtle example.163450

I like the overall concept of this, I think I will take a little from several different cars and put my spin on it. I think at minimum I need to have the spoiler be at least as big as the stock trans am one. But integrate it into the sheet metal how Lilly did the camaro. Thanks for ideas guys.

[jlcustomz]

Well, said I'd do ya a line pencil drawing. I know it's rough, I'm out of practice & couldn't even find a good pencil. Thought I'd throw in a few more changes just for fun, can't help myself. Didn't try to define any wheel style.
Don't like anything, it's etched in pencil, not stone.
Your project , just having a little of my own fun with it while trying to help based on what I think you could like. Figured the mere mention of the Rampage Camaro spoiler would steer you towards something a little sleeker.:poke:
Changed the rear door upper & lower profile, raked the front pillar, Ground effects with diffusor, flush door handle, & vented rear window like red car pictured.
163659

Oh & the crooked wheels are to keep you from speeding.

[Ddkeeler]

Well, said I'd do ya a line pencil drawing. I know it's rough, I'm out of practice & couldn't even find a good pencil. Thought I'd throw in a few more changes just for fun, can't help myself. Didn't try to define any wheel style.
Don't like anything, it's etched in pencil, not stone.
Your project , just having a little of my own fun with it while trying to help based on what I think you could like. Figured the mere mention of the Rampage Camaro spoiler would steer you towards something a little sleeker.:poke:
Changed the rear door upper & lower profile, raked the front pillar, Ground effects with diffusor, flush door handle, & vented rear window like red car pictured.
163659

Oh & the crooked wheels are to keep you from speeding.

Man, that looks sweet! I moved my rear wheel back 10” any thoughts on what that could look like?

[jlcustomz]

163679
rear wheels moved back 10"

[jlcustomz]

Better cellphone pic of revision 1 which moves wheels back 10".

Revision 2 removes wrap around rear window for flush version, adds sail panel scoops & 5th gen style fender vents for brakes.
163703
163704

[jlcustomz]

Revision 3, made chin spoiler wrap around to line up with ground effects.
163705

[Ddkeeler]

Now that’s awesome! Thanks for putting all that work into those drawings. It really helps me wrap my head around the big picture.

[Ddkeeler]

I remember someone saying they had a ffr 818. I’m trying to get some measurements or a detailed picture of the front spindle upper control arm mount that bolts to where the strut attached. 163713

[jlcustomz]

Another random pic for shapes.
163787

[cornfedbill]

Another random pic for shapes.
163787

That is a nice looking car. There are some styling points that could be used from it.

[Ddkeeler]

164017164018164019164020164021164022164023

It’s been taking me a lot longer than I had hoped to get started on the front suspension. I had to do a little rework on the whole front end I had previously made. It was too wide and with the steering rack I have I would have had terrible bump steer. In addition to putting a bar right in the way of where the tie rod will be.

I am much happier with how this is turning out. I feel like it will be a better use of the space upfront. The steering rack and anti roll bar will be mounted using the two large plates up front.

The fire wall will be right at the point where the vertical bars are located. My thought is to do it out of 14-16 gauge steel. While I am trying to keep this lightweight. I also don’t want to sacrifice safety to be super light. I am trying to design it so if I get into an accident and there is front end damage the drivers compartment is still intact. With that being said. Is 1/8” plate overkill?

I dropped some steel rod and bushings off to a machinist to get turned down to size for the bell cranks on the suspension. I’ll be incorporating the sway bar operation into the bell crank. I need to run a splined sway bar but I need the length of it to be between 18-22” I’m having a hard time finding anything that short. Is there weldable options for sway bars? Or maybe the best route would be get the shortest I could and machine splines in at the length I need.

Wheels will be here in 3 weeks, my goal is to have this thing ready to set on the ground by then so I can get the tires mounted and set it on the ground.

[jlcustomz]

Figured you were getting hung up on the front suspension, no pun intended. Not my area of expertise.
For a sway bar , how bout just the size pipe needed & weld flanges on to bolt on arms. Ridetech strong arms, at least for my g-body are done this way. Thinking of making my own one day.
Not a firewall expert either, that being said 1/8 would be overkill for weight . A more practical way of strengthening a flat sheet of metal would be something like a couple of interior vertical sheet metal braces to add stability beyond what the sheet alone would do.

That would be cool to see it outdoors on wheels in a few weeks. Gotta self impose goals to get anything done.

[Ddkeeler]

164024164025The welding route probably isn’t going to be advised be anyone just because welding would ruin any tempering. But I wasn’t sure if it had been done with any success or not.

I believe they call them sheer panels. And I’ll probably have. To add some more tubes in to get the basic shape. But I can’t find any info on what thickness people are using.

All of your sketches had me reach out to a guy who does renderings. Check out what he came up with. Missed a few details but over all it’s pretty close.

[jlcustomz]

Renderings generally always follow pencil drawings I hand out. Though renderings generally don't capture the fine details of the final product correctly done, it gives an insight one dimension drawings just can't ever do. Definitely helps to see what would look good & what doesn't.
Those are about the shape of hood extractor vents I was picturing.
Rear axle setback looks good. Rear quarter widening looks good.
Stock door handles need to go. Other mirrors could be a good finishing touch.
Stock fender flares look out of place now, custom metal looks much better.
Angle added to quarter, door , & sail panel like in pencil drawing definitely would be worth the work. Some angle in first pic looks much better than straight in 2nd.
I think more swoop to rear spoiler would look better.
Think you have a little more top chop done than rendering shows.

You'll have to save your pennies for that edelbrock cross ram intake. Looks like they were made for your project. You could make a 2 into 1 adapter for single throttle body to save money on dual tb controller setup.. Vara ram was designing one in their intake that never made it to market.

Pencil drawings are cool, but renderings are awesome.

[Ddkeeler]

I sent him your drawing so I don’t really understand why he missed all the details other than he wasn’t sure how to do it.

I’m thinking of getting some pedastal type mirrors from a new corvette or something.

I’ll have to look into the two into one tb adapter. I’m running drive by wire so the cost is really the only limiting factor in that.

[jlcustomz]

Not a good pic, but here's a link to the ridetech model bar that the end bolts on. https://www.ridetech.com/products/musclebar/1978-1988-gm-g-body-musclebar-front/
I don't know about tempering on swaybars, but if it needs to be, could heat up with a torch & dip in oil. Ever watch forged in fire?

[Ddkeeler]

Well it’s been a busy couple of weeks outside of working on the car. My rotiform rse wheels came in about two weeks ago, I am really happy with how they look in person.

I had dropped off some material off to a machinist a month ago and finally got it back two days ago, I’m not really sure if a month is a standard turn around time for a machinist. I had him make 4 tapered sleeves for my ball joints and some components for my Bell cranks. I’ll get those installed and show you guys what that’s all about.

I wrapped up the main frame of the car and I have opted to get rid of the frame table so I can set the car at ride height with wheels on the car. My initial plan of being 45” from the ground to the roof worked out. I’m really happy with how low it is. Just need to get all the the ball joints connected to the control arms now.

I’ve ordered a bench mount planishing hammer, I am looking forward to getting started on the sheet metal. Changing gears for a little bit will be nice.

164718164719164720164721164722164723

[Ddkeeler]

This first picture here is roughly the pin location and angle for my rear suspension bellcrank assembly. I didn’t get as far on that as I was hoping to today. But I was able to make some good progress on the front suspension, I am trying to recall what needs to be changed when the wheel goes into camber loss in a turn. Do I need to add more positive caster to counteract the camber loss?

164751164752164753164754

[Ddkeeler]

Well guys, I had to throw the wheel lip onto the car and run some tape to see what shape/design I’m going for. I threw this together quick. I think in the front of the wheel I will have the lower portion of wheel lip further toward the outside of the car. Still doing a little planing before I make my wire form buck.

What do you guys think?

165066165067165068

[NOT A TA]

Is that at ride height and if so what happens to that wheel well lip when you hit a bump?

[Ddkeeler]

It is at ride height, but the lip is going to be outside the wheel. I just did this to get some ideas.

[Jaymzz]

That's going to be wide and I love it! You doing metal or glass?

[Ddkeeler]

That's going to be wide and I love it! You doing metal or glass?


Trailering it is going to be an issue. 😬Ill be doing metal on pretty pretty much the whole car!

[Jaymzz]

Nice! Doing my Blazer metal also and a lot of work but way better.

[jlcustomz]

Is the front going to be near that wide also? Didn't realize the back wheels would be so wide.
It'll definitely be hard to make that much stretch look good in that short of a space.
This was another hair brained thought of an option since the body is pretty much a floorless shell anyway. Split the roof in the center, stopping the cut at the front windshield framing. Then slice the rear about an inch outside of the trunk line. Then you can flare the back out maybe 2 to 3"" per side at the rear door opening area. Then slice across the top of the quarters at the center of the new wheel opening, which will be roughly 70% wider than the width gain at rear of doors. Then taper rear half of quarter back a little and make the rear 2 to 3" wider per side.

Just a thought that I been thinking on a while here. Would definitely give an aggressive look fitting to a mid engine car & make the flairout area at the wheels themselves less ridiculous looking. Since you have a floorless shell, this could be less work than it sounds like for the result it will give you, especially considering the difficulty of making that wide of a body flaring job look good.

If you want to consider this option, take me a better high view picture of the top rear of the car. I know someone with a pencil & paper.

[Ddkeeler]

Is the front going to be near that wide also? Didn't realize the back wheels would be so wide.
It'll definitely be hard to make that much stretch look good in that short of a space.
This was another hair brained thought of an option since the body is pretty much a floorless shell anyway. Split the roof in the center, stopping the cut at the front windshield framing. Then slice the rear about an inch outside of the trunk line. Then you can flare the back out maybe 2 to 3"" per side at the rear door opening area. Then slice across the top of the quarters at the center of the new wheel opening, which will be roughly 70% wider than the width gain at rear of doors. Then taper rear half of quarter back a little and make the rear 2 to 3" wider per side.

Just a thought that I been thinking on a while here. Would definitely give an aggressive look fitting to a mid engine car & make the flairout area at the wheels themselves less ridiculous looking. Since you have a floorless shell, this could be less work than it sounds like for the result it will give you, especially considering the difficulty of making that wide of a body flaring job look good.

If you want to consider this option, take me a better high view picture of the top rear of the car. I know someone with a pencil & paper.

So the front is going to be an inch or two narrower. Based off pictures I’m only about 2” wider each side than the roadster shop camaro. And they pulled off a really sweet look. I have a little more going for me, because I moved the wheels back 10” I will have more room to transition the shape back into the body I. The door area I am contemplating tapering front fender and rear quarter panels into the door. If that makes sense. When I first started the project I did have the same thought to cut the roof and back portion of the car down the middle to kind of hide how wide it was. I decided to go for a louder look in that aspect. Maybe on the next one I’ll do that. But if the person you know with the pencil might want to try their hand at the shape of the quarter panel, I would t be opposed. ��

[jlcustomz]

Plenty of custom widebody jobs transition something of the rear quarter into the door. If you do this on the front, you may have to alter the door gap profile for it to open, cuz the opening will be further away from the hinges. Just a little test trial & error before making parts, could check by gluing on foam.
Rear wheels moved back 10" will help for fit to front door, but will hurt for height with the wheel sitting at a shorter part of panel.
Found a nice shot of road rage camaro. Personally I think it might look better with quarter panel being about 2" wider than tail panel, but with solid metal corner, rather than the vented add on look.
165114

[Ddkeeler]

Plenty of custom widebody jobs transition something of the rear quarter into the door. If you do this on the front, you may have to alter the door gap profile for it to open, cuz the opening will be further away from the hinges. Just a little test trial & error before making parts, could check by gluing on foam.
Rear wheels moved back 10" will help for fit to front door, but will hurt for height with the wheel sitting at a shorter part of panel.
Found a nice shot of road rage camaro. Personally I think it might look better with quarter panel being about 2" wider than tail panel, but with solid metal corner, rather than the vented add on look.
165114
I agree that around 2” would look good! As far as the wheel lip in the rear, I was going to do something similar to this. https://images.app.goo.gl/cKKNXXRj2Ma1tTof6

[jimco84x]

Is that at ride height and if so what happens to that wheel well lip when you hit a bump?

That's why he used tape. If will flex so as not to damage the fender lip.

I know..nobody loves a smart.a$$

Love the project. That is going to be one seriously aggressive stance.

[Bob in St. Louis]

This is wicked. Reminiscent of an ol IMSA car. So cool.

[jlcustomz]

That speedway camaro looks just a little funky to the eye with it'd body sectioning, so similar fender opening shapes would look better on yours. Those also look like more functional, suspension travel friendly shapes.
I remember you saying you ordered a bench planishing hammer. I made one to be handheld & made the dies. Worked great on little pieces of metal, but did more harm that good for me on trying to smooth my 84" long quarter panels. Of course some of my issue was home made dies. Do you have a sandbag & at least one large plastic teardrop hammer? these are great for starting out metal shapes, which usually always look bad before they look good. If you don't have a sandbag, laying several layers of carpet on the ground under the metal to strike on gives a pretty similar effect.

[Ddkeeler]

That speedway camaro looks just a little funky to the eye with it'd body sectioning, so similar fender opening shapes would look better on yours. Those also look like more functional, suspension travel friendly shapes.
I remember you saying you ordered a bench planishing hammer. I made one to be handheld & made the dies. Worked great on little pieces of metal, but did more harm that good for me on trying to smooth my 84" long quarter panels. Of course some of my issue was home made dies. Do you have a sandbag & at least one large plastic teardrop hammer? these are great for starting out metal shapes, which usually always look bad before they look good. If you don't have a sandbag, laying several layers of carpet on the ground under the metal to strike on gives a pretty similar effect.

I just got my leather bag and one tear drop hammer today actually. I am trying to figure out my bellcranks right now then I will start messing with the quarter. I plan to have a quarter roughed out and the chassis cleaned up so I can take it to a local car show in August. I’m going to try and make the quarter panel in 3-4 pieces, unless the part gets too complex for me to manage. Then I’ll just make some smaller sized panels

[jlcustomz]

Rough chicken scratch rearview based off Road Rage pic.
Added in some of my original changes, plus firebird parts.
Rounded flares with extreme body flaring blending into doors (somewhat inspired off 69 charger body shapes) blending into doors.
Rear approx 2" wider per side with tail light cut down in centers for plate.
Bumper split in center & brought out to ends with 4 center pipes.
Diverter pan underneath modified bird bumpers.
Drawing proportions make rear look taller & narrower than they would be.

Yea, really rough sketch, I suck worse at angles, but good for inspiration.165167
May even want to widen rear 3 to 5" per side & bring tail lights out to original edge.

[Ddkeeler]

Rough chicken scratch rearview based off Road Rage pic.
Added in some of my original changes, plus firebird parts.
Rounded flares with extreme body flaring blending into doors (somewhat inspired off 69 charger body shapes) blending into doors.
Rear approx 2" wider per side with tail light cut down in centers for plate.
Bumper split in center & brought out to ends with 4 center pipes.
Diverter pan underneath modified bird bumpers.
Drawing proportions make rear look taller & narrower than they would be.

Yea, really rough sketch, I suck worse at angles, but good for inspiration.165167
May even want to widen rear 3 to 5" per side & bring tail lights out to original edge.

Man you have some serious skills. I love this sketch. I can’t believe you took the jumbled pieces of what I’m trying to do, and put them into one car.

I do like the idea to widen it some more on the rear.

[OLDFLM]

Is the front going to be near that wide also? Didn't realize the back wheels would be so wide.
It'll definitely be hard to make that much stretch look good in that short of a space.
This was another hair brained thought of an option since the body is pretty much a floorless shell anyway. Split the roof in the center, stopping the cut at the front windshield framing. Then slice the rear about an inch outside of the trunk line. Then you can flare the back out maybe 2 to 3"" per side at the rear door opening area. Then slice across the top of the quarters at the center of the new wheel opening, which will be roughly 70% wider than the width gain at rear of doors. Then taper rear half of quarter back a little and make the rear 2 to 3" wider per side.

Just a thought that I been thinking on a while here. Would definitely give an aggressive look fitting to a mid engine car & make the flairout area at the wheels themselves less ridiculous looking. Since you have a floorless shell, this could be less work than it sounds like for the result it will give you, especially considering the difficulty of making that wide of a body flaring job look good.

If you want to consider this option, take me a better high view picture of the top rear of the car. I know someone with a pencil & paper.

This makes the most sense to me personally... and I'm wondering why the A-arms are sooo long... I think if you cut their length in half and pull the tires to the center by half their width and then execute the mods above you'd have a more cohesive and visually appealing look to the car. I'm just not sure why you'd want to push the tires so far out when they're not twice as wide. I dig the wide body idea but I think a little refinement will go along way toward the finished product and make your metal shaping and blending of body lines a lot easier.

Just my $0.02 since you asked... dig the idea! Keep pushing forward!

[jlcustomz]

Well , if the quarters are extended out the way I'm now picturing, it would give the sort of roof/ sail panel to quarter sail panel look of let's say a 5th gen camaro or 69 charger . Done right , it would look bad ass rather than corny stupid, just a different approach.
The car in the link below is a the magnaflow hellcat challenger lowered, widened & blended with 69' charger body parts. It gives a good view of the widening of the main part of the body around the roof & center of doors. You can see some of the upper body lines crossing into the door that I incorporated into the last sketch, best seen in person on a 69'charger. It's hard to see the cokebottle & almost double x-shape I'd call it in pictures. Ignore the lack of flares or tall body above wheel wells in this pic. Also it has a widened rear.
http://www.torquedmag.com/magnaflow-unveils-pro-touring-dodge-hellcat-transformed-into-a-69-charger/


The NRE Maximus charger in raw metal is also good to view the upper body shapes.
https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1SQJL_enUS808US808&biw=1366&bih=625&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=qmwJXfOMLMLM_AbG3ov4Cw&q=69+charger+widebody+maximus&oq=69+charger+widebody+maximus&gs_l=img.12...0.0..69...0.0..0.0.0.......0......gw s-wiz-img.P9xrOSRDZmw#imgrc=94waOUwOM6KTGM:

[Ddkeeler]

This makes the most sense to me personally... and I'm wondering why the A-arms are sooo long... I think if you cut their length in half and pull the tires to the center by half their width and then execute the mods above you'd have a more cohesive and visually appealing look to the car. I'm just not sure why you'd want to push the tires so far out when they're not twice as wide. I dig the wide body idea but I think a little refinement will go along way toward the finished product and make your metal shaping and blending of body lines a lot easier.

Just my $0.02 since you asked... dig the idea! Keep pushing forward!

Thanks for your input. I know I could have run shorter a arms then I wouldn’t have had to do any body mods. ( or at least very few) i am going for a little over the top look with the whole thing. The A arms are wide for a few reasons, with the wider arms every movement is a little more gradual. The long arms also allow me to keep the area looking a little less cluttered, I will just have the arms, tie rod and pushrod bars there. And lastly ideally you want your mounting of your wheels as close to the center of the wheel as possible, so to keep the width of the wheels out there for stability while not running a huge lip I had to run long arms.

[Ddkeeler]

Well , if the quarters are extended out the way I'm now picturing, it would give the sort of roof/ sail panel to quarter sail panel look of let's say a 5th gen camaro or 69 charger . Done right , it would look bad ass rather than corny stupid, just a different approach.
The car in the link below is a the magnaflow hellcat challenger lowered, widened & blended with 69' charger body parts. It gives a good view of the widening of the main part of the body around the roof & center of doors. You can see some of the upper body lines crossing into the door that I incorporated into the last sketch, best seen in person on a 69'charger. It's hard to see the cokebottle & almost double x-shape I'd call it in pictures. Ignore the lack of flares or tall body above wheel wells in this pic. Also it has a widened rear.
http://www.torquedmag.com/magnaflow-unveils-pro-touring-dodge-hellcat-transformed-into-a-69-charger/


The NRE Maximus charger in raw metal is also good to view the upper body shapes.
https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1SQJL_enUS808US808&biw=1366&bih=625&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=qmwJXfOMLMLM_AbG3ov4Cw&q=69+charger+widebody+maximus&oq=69+charger+widebody+maximus&gs_l=img.12...0.0..69...0.0..0.0.0.......0......gw s-wiz-img.P9xrOSRDZmw#imgrc=94waOUwOM6KTGM:

Honestly, I dig your idea for the sail panel and changing the shape of the rear portion of the door. I’m starting to lay some things out and start on the wireform this week. It’s going to take me a little bit to wrap my head around it all.

[Jaymzz]

I wish we lived closer together because I can only imagine the builds we could come up with! I love that you are going so wide and wish my Blazer wasn't so square so I could do more. It has been a challenge for me trying to figure out how to get the six inches wider to go with a square body and looking at your car all kind of round ideas popping into my head. Can't wait to see some metal work on your car!

[Ddkeeler]

165272

I had a square body a few years ago. There isn’t any easy way to go wider. But I really like this truck.


I wish we lived closer together because I can only imagine the builds we could come up with! I love that you are going so wide and wish my Blazer wasn't so square so I could do more. It has been a challenge for me trying to figure out how to get the six inches wider to go with a square body and looking at your car all kind of round ideas popping into my head. Can't wait to see some metal work on your car!

[jlcustomz]

Looks like a pretty cool truck. I see a way to go a little wider with the body.

A few other Idea pictures would be the rad rides by troy 87 camaro and the bodylines on a 77 monte carlo, which flare out in their own style. Both would be for general visualization of shapes rather than actual shapes.
On the back I am thinking the tail lights could be spread apart the distance to put a license plate between them without cutting into them after removing small center panel. Or you could do round lights like road rage has, but I think the bird lights would be cooler.
On the front one thought would be widening the entire nose to near the wheel well length like on the vette pic below. A reproduction fiberglass nose would be easiest to fab with. Personally I like the 77'nose better.
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The upper rear quarter shape of a 5th or 6th gen camaro would be a good starting point, but wider & extended into the door.
165278

[OLDFLM]

165286

They total messed up the front of this modern take on a Trans Am but I think the flares and rear execution are great! (minus the oversized wing) This is what I'd shoot for with your wide body.

[raffshore]

165272

I had a square body a few years ago. There isn’t any easy way to go wider. But I really like this truck.

would love to see some pics of this truck

[Jaymzz]

Also would like to know more about the truck! My son is building a 78 K5 2wd Blazer and would love some ideas. :D

[Sbeck09]

Not sure if you saw it, but Nelson Racing Engines posted about them building a mid-engine 67 GTO. From the little I saw it looks pretty nuts. Might be something worth peeking at to steal some ideas or get more inspiration.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZydsZYppRQ

[Bob in St. Louis]

Not sure if you saw it, but Nelson Racing Engines posted about them building a mid-engine 67 GTO. From the little I saw it looks pretty nuts. Might be something worth peeking at to steal some ideas or get more inspiration.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZydsZYppRQ
If Jesus Christ Himself wanted a '67 GTO, this would be the one. Unbelievable....

[jlcustomz]

Dalton, I'm sure your head is starting to hurt at this point trying to decide on things, but preplanning is important here.
Your project & your choice of how to do it, but to build something that would really look cool now & also look cool years later, I think a smoother approach to body design would be best, as opposed to huge bubbly looking flares (Eddie Paul style) attached to existing unmodified body or box fender flares, which look like projecting trailer fenders. What not to do is important here.

Another option for thought , which fits into other body inspiration choices I listed, would be splitting door skins off & making entire doorshell wider with new bodyline at upper portion. This with the stock width roof & sailpanel would tie in great to the supercar look..

Another STRONG suggestion here, find TWO of the largest 77' to 79' Trans Am or Firebird models you can. cut parts off one & add to the other. Plastic can be glued or plastic welded with wood burning tool or soldering gun. Then add a soft filler, sand & shape. This will give you a real visual which YOU are in control of.
https://www.amazon.com/MPC-MPC86206-1979-Pontiac-Firebird/dp/B071FGCFJP

Also keep in mind what not to do.
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165330

You have a lot of real estate to add for yours.

[Jaymzz]

I am having a lot of fun watching this build and it his car so I hope he builds it how he wants it.

[JayinMI]

would love to see some pics of this truck

The guy who built it is named Jason Kable. He has cancer, and this was supposed to be his last build. He built it for his dad.
It's on IG under "Dadsc10build" and on Diymobileaudio.com under the username "1FinalInstall".
Super cool guy. Very humble, and super helpful. He was doing alot better last time I saw him, and is planning on building
a new E46 for himself.

He brought it out to a mutual friends' car audio get together in May. Here's some pics I have of it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/06/48114684926_2274ba2941_z-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2giJkxd)IMG_20190504_125358493_HDR (https://flic.kr/p/2giJkxd) by Jay McGraw (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152771097@N08/), on Flickr

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/06/48114721193_611a88aa45_z-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2giJwjv)IMG_20190504_162258124 (https://flic.kr/p/2giJwjv) by Jay McGraw (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152771097@N08/), on Flickr

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/06/48114775907_b1b617af80_z-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2giJNzR)IMG_20190504_162312794 (https://flic.kr/p/2giJNzR) by Jay McGraw (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152771097@N08/), on Flickr

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/06/48114775402_8e5fe5c2d1_z-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2giJNr9)IMG_20190504_162302197 (https://flic.kr/p/2giJNr9) by Jay McGraw (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152771097@N08/), on Flickr

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/06/48114720528_f5d292e012_z-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2giJw83)IMG_20190504_162355677 (https://flic.kr/p/2giJw83) by Jay McGraw (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152771097@N08/), on Flickr

He built the interior and did the audio install.

Sorry for the hijack.

Jay

[Bob in St. Louis]

That interior... WOW!

[JayinMI]

He's planning to exceed that one with his new E46 BMW build. lol

[FormTA]

Any updates on this?? Really hope you move forward with it!

[jlcustomz]

Last I heard from Dalton, it went in storage to work on a paying build, a f100. He's on facebook & Instagram under Dkustom fab.