View Full Version : 68 rag camaro wrapped around an 04 GTO/LS1 man
Stripped down my 68 camaro convertible all the way after patching the quarters, floor and trunk years back(bought the running car for $1600 in 1990). This past year have replaced both quarters, fixed inside quarters, rear top deck structure, prepped the rest. Frame rails, shock mounts all very good.
Got a salvage complete wrecked 04 GTO-LS1/6-speed this past spring($1700 total thru IAA), stripped most of it and removed the dash, all wiring, cut out the floor and began retrofitting into the 68. Course the later dashes are deeper but similar widths between pillars and by measurements the GTO firewall protrudes in about 8-9 inches from stock firewall. Less cabin space and will end up with no rear floor space but the big uplift is using the massive AC/heat unit, entire dash, column, pedals, both masters and all electrics incorporating modern options.
Away goes the old kick panel doors and window cranks won't be visible so motors are a must.
Using the GTO floor will have to be lower as the floor to window base is 1-2 " taller, floor width is wider by about 8 inches so hacking/channeling is necessary to utilize the GTO seats(minus the headrests).
Referencing is based off of the 68 windshield-the GTO upper dash to floor is about 1-2 inches taller in GTO so the floor out of the GTO will be 'sunk' a bit without sacrificing much sub frame height/body. The wiper motor and arms are higher than the cowl panel so I may ‘tilt’ the cowl panel and beveling the sides to clear the wipers creating a hideaway windshield base. Shape the GTO curved portion to meet into the original cowl surface so the grill header will sit. Will blend the donor dash and cowl areas(proper supports even utilizing the galvanized tunnel brackets from the GTO) and will give me 'space' between the original firewall and deepened firewall for the cable cruise, CB/fuse block(both were mounted on the GTO pass wheel well) and ample space for the brake and clutch masters. See how can incorporate the side vents as the GTO plumbed into upper door fronts and blasted out of doors. More engine clearance and radiator/fan/condenser space utilizing most from the GTO(recovery tank, washer bottle). Engine/trans will sit
[SIZE=4]Inside width of 68 frame is 47 1/2 at bottom to 48" at top so the GTO floor being wider shall channel each side roughly 2" to get about 52”, enough for door panel clearance so far.
Probably make the channeling most of length of door and by doing this seat belt mount is gone but could be reused but since I plan to use shoulder harness from GTO won’t be a problem. Utilize the overhead support to create a 'flat' roll bar to use the shoulder belting-nifty..want a safe car too.
dhutton
12-11-2018, 04:16 PM
Would be better to start a build thread in the projects section. This section doesn’t get a lot of views.
Don
I'm new in the forums and figured within this region..have not seen a major undertaking going this far to modernize a muscle car, have you?
So far to some the idea of chopping a classic up to accommodate a modern car seems too much effort but if you enjoy metal crafting even though with just basic tools
that's where I am such as what Ian does on 'Full Custom Garage' to the extreme's making something unique. I wouldn't be satisfied with just another camaro with an LS
so got measuring before I decided and seeing it's possible even using the GTO seats with the GTO floor pan minus the headrests. I'm hesitant of cutting into the rockers
but their 9" wide and later I can figure in a decent interior trim. Probably put airbags in as both popped from the accident.
GTO seat is 30" from top hrest to seat and 68 is 19 so minus the 7" headrest be about 4" higher than stock seat and width can do inside rockers but not by much..
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Photo partly shows at top what is needed to integrate to 68. My pillars had rot is what you see missing. The car body rough but seen a lot worse.
The GTO dash overlay housing the cluster, switches, air/temp controls etc was suspended in urethane with 2 4" long bolts onto inner fender structure and 2 short bolts horizontally securing the dash ends to inner fender(see in left photo the long bolt of drive side). Shall reuse bolts cutting to length but can't use urethane and don't need to. See in photo that ugly yellow piece is from the pass kick steel inner support is being reused into 68. Pass side the BCM mounts.
chuckd71
12-14-2018, 10:55 PM
I'm new in the forums and figured within this region..have not seen a major undertaking going this far to modernize a muscle car, have you?
There are plenty of people similar things, might find useful info in build threads that could come in handy or save you some time.
It doesn't take anything away from your project, but there is this guy who several years ago did a flawless job of basically what you are doing. https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/31227-69-firebird-T-A-convertible
Not sure I understand the benefit of using the GTO floor, but it looks like a good project.
Hi Chuck, yes I did go through Sam's project, quite a bit of customizing and hope to end up that outcome level and since I'm using the huge GTO air unit, GTO seats and electrical items utilizing most all GTO components makes sense to use entire dash, floor. Sam cut his defrosters as he said 'not a deal breaker' and since he went with aftermarket air unit he could stick with original metal more. The GTO seats have nice reinforcing mounts and the GTO floor supports it's air unit, larger tunnel and trans mount is already there with exhaust hanger, just adding the sub-frame caged nuts. I can use the entire console too with the wider tunnel and the seating will be straight on to pedals. Long run I'll have a bit less finagling on small things I hope! And thanks for input, doers enjoy!
Just repairs as you can buy those inside lower quarter to rocker patch panels for coups but they look different for vert's so made the repairs.
Frankenstein connecting drip support repair pieces integrating the GTO dash to the 68 cowl for the one side and make dup's for other side.
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Forgotten the BCM mounts under the passenger side dash glove box but the drive side lower kick houses the PIM (Powertrain interface module) and the TPM next to it not sure what it's function is, don't see it in schematics yet and so as the drive kick panel comes in over the 68's inner rocker that's fine except as a few inches further back the seat mounts begin and so there is where I'll have to channel into the inner rockers for the wider floor to accommodate the GTO seats as all the side to side will be tight against the door panel closing and still operate the switches. Be locating the shoulder harness looks like just behind the angled factory inner quarter welded support and comes up all the way to the roof and what I plan to use is all across the underside of roof(soft top)is the support roof metal out of the GTO and hanging the GTO LED overhead lighting. There is lots of lighting these cars came with and that's a plus as you get older-hah! Plan to use the entire dash, AC-heat unit(it is an integrated LARGE unit),steering, pedals, console and factory shifter location, possibly the steering rack, engine cradle bolting under the sub-frame as the width is nearly same on both, maybe the headers should work out too.
Depending where you decide to cut into original dash can determine what you can save sparing the extra bridging and water run offs. On the top surface of original dash I cut out all the well(you have to)and stopped at the inside vertical seams, maintaining strength on each side where the outer and inner cowl join. The GTO dash was then measured width wise had to add to the drip edges of it in order for water to extend outward/sides into the gutter. First two photos underneath two pieces each side(guess if you have better jigs and skills just one). Third photo can see a mock-up.
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The rear of hood has to meet all same location as original and so later on because of the raised GTO cowl with wiper assembly have to create a raised custom sill plate.
Plan to possibly start from scratch or modify the original camaro piece raising it..etc. I knew all this before deciding as obvious concerns in the beginning.
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The master cap clears fine under my opening. May be odd to say but this GTO dash and floor was meant for these cars as sure you have to modify but if your creative this stuff is fun creating a modern car from a complete donor car without having to chase down all kinds of items. Plan to use the GTO motor cradle as it's bolted through framing at four points and when I slide the sub-frame under shall find out the position. Bolted to the rear of GTO carrier is the rack and hope to use that too. Window motors could be a challenge but shall see.
A/C unit and a clutch pedal in just to check for foot clearance as have gutted about 2" inside the rocker metal for foot space.
After cutting about 20 or so inches, about 2" deep at top about the length of front to rear seat then added a plate. Shall fully weld.
Deliberately want to use the rocker to hide the wiring inside as the pass side has guite a bit-lighting,speakers, trunk and gas electric locks, fuel wiring and roof light.
Will take some creative sill dressings and such later..
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derekf
01-30-2019, 04:47 PM
I've moved your thread to the Project Updates section - otherwise folks not in the South won't be as likely as to enjoy your updates.
I had the connectors fully bolted in the car before dismantling the 68 fall 2017
and now fitting in the front floor half clamped I drilled a pilot hole for the caged nut to be welded on top.
Fortunately the 68 subframe meets the GTO floor reinforcement area.
Speaking of 'getting lucky with sizing' the 4 bolt engine cradle of the GTO is almost dead center
under the 68 subframe depending where I end up modifying and mounting.
Just lengths so far the motor/trans will sit behind the rear of the crossmember 2-3 inches and may be lucky enough to
retain the front sump and use the GTO rack unit. The rack is 2" too wide on either side then to correct side tie rod lengths.
If not room for rack then a rear sump is needed. Shall see...
can
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The door manual window crank will not have space to swing it
so of course I knew in beginning and planned to go with
power windows/locks anyway, no problem with door latch.
May incorporate the door latches and power lock mechanisms.
But to transfer window supports & lift motor may be:rolleyes: wishful thinking ..shall see.
Appears I will use the GTO floor frame stubs where I cut the floor about mid-way through shifter hole the framing supports
continued on the second floor a few inches and curve upward tying into the side to side supports which are in line with camaro
subframe ends and probably fabricate joiners-about 10", negating full sub connectors.
Surprising some of the dimensions are compatible with the older bodys.
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Finally sized and cleaned up the two floor sections and the rear floor
will be a modified original replacement. Had to make a few filler pieces
after having cut too much out of GTO in beginning. In order to use the
GTO rear seating I'll have to modify the GTO back rest as is too tall later on.
Then onto cutting out the shoulder strap supports with the continuous roof
support to create a flat rollbar incorporating the overhead light. Then drop
in the motor and tranny with trans mount in position with 2 to 3° angle down
in position where I'll measure out and see where the engine mount cradle will
attach to the sub frame. I can see that will be some butchering of the K-member
and looks like I can use the GTO rack just have to change out and shorten the arms
4" total. A rear sump definitely will be required.
Adapting replacement floor to GTO floor in the 68. The GTO seat bottom floor is nearly flat unlike the camaro so things will work out as
the GTO seat bottom middle section easily separates so can use both seat cushions, 18-19" wide then later cut and tuck the back rest.
Although there is minimal floor space shall put all in anyway.
The 04-06 GTO's dual exhaust travels nearly tucked up in the wide floor tunnel.
I think there should be a manufacturer stamping a wider floor tunnel for conversions allowing more leg room too.
Will be installing the seat retractors just behind the supports on both sides in the rear side qtr
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I've laid out the wiring harness and will utilize most all in time except the ABS which I believe leaving unplugged the Electronic brake control module which has the brake lines into/out
should not interfere with accelerator servo unit(cruise) and only concerns are the traction and ABS light indicator's which shall see if just unplugging the ABS fuse and related relay.
Without the ABS unit i'm thinking I'll have to install a proportioning valve for the brakes but then again maybe not if I go all discs.
Shall have air bags, the SRS will be intact.
Since the GTO has separate amber turn light bulbs shall install into the dual split 68 rear inside lens and for outside lens the combo brake/taillight.
The headlights lo/hi are one filament but are ground controlled from switching instead of power so the single ground lug of 68 halogen's will be power and the 'live' lugs will be switched to gound side switches and relays.
Polarity doesn't matter but LED 's would of course.
Searching for decent reverse lights into the lower panel-may just use the stock RS type but an Australian company called Stedi has cool LED lights.
https://www.stedi.com.au/10w-mini-led-flood-light-836.html
Find fog lights and have seen them installed in the large slots and look good.
If anyone can tell me from experience of using the GTO wiring harness any heads up would be appreciated. Most of this project I roughly planned out-thx
Cut up a replacement rear under seat side to side metal with hump to join the GTO more upright hump and have the front edge braces that strengthen the leaf supports . Removed the GTO motor cradle and will see about adapting to 68 frame as surprisingly the width of frame is about equal but since the motor will sit further back on the down163166)
slope this will be my biggest hurdle and did cut out the four(right of frame in photo
internal frame bolt reinforcements out of GTO to go into 68 frame. Plan to use the fluid mounts which sit upright vertical.
Almost ready for recycling crusher just have the seat belt mount structure all the way up across roof and down both sides to create a 'flat' roll bar whic will have the roof LED lights too-where do you see a convertible with that idea? When I start a project I see it to the end, taking time as I get to it a couple hours a day and more on weekends. Tore down the 68 in Oct 2017, got both full quarters on and internal rear quarter repairs by June 2018, getting 04 GTO in summer and replacing all trunk and top reinforcement's by fall 2018. Rear panel saved, small cowl holes and modest amount of inner rocker mod's and subframe chopped down 3/4" under the front floor as the GTO floor had to sit a little lower than stock to accommodate the massive heat/AC unit. Should really handle well with the motor trans set back 10 inches.
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Have the entire floor in place welded to firewall and rockers and replacement camaro rear seat floor metal blended to GTO floor and had to make boxed pad supports
for subframe as the GTO floor is irregular in that area but luckily extra steal support runs along the same width of GTO floor as the subframe. Kept the body level front to rear
and side to side all this time to ensure floor and supports and all are spot on. Wanted to bolt in my home made subframe connectors and all setup to begin the engine/trans mount.
The aluminum GTO trans crossmember mounts to bottom of floor and so that will be a reference to where the engine cradle will go with about 2-3 degrees decline.
Frame and hardware will be pulled out later for fully weld and detail for sealants and coatings
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The floor is just about done as had to blend a replacement floor to GTO floor and worked out well with the top braces in place.
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Long tube exhaust headers are the used ones off of GTO and they clear the subframe and so far plenty of space. Want to keep the compressor down in the lower right so will need hacking the thick rear crossmember but the alternator is right where the unisteer rack pinion will come up. I don't have rack yet but I may want to modify the mount for the rack rotating rearward and might allow column hookup but I can easily relocate to top right, just throws off the belt length and redo the wiring(have to do some rewiring anyway).
So far the engine sitting rearward about 8" from original camaro setup is working out fairly well. My biggest push was for a comfortable cruiser adding a lot of time to a restoration but I didn't want to settle for a number of issues: a small aftermarket air with flimsy hoses jammed under the dash(not to mention you lose outside air blend); fighting the floor tunnel for the bigger transmissions; adapting cruise control or spending lots on columns and such; a large display radio/info panel with a possible back up camera;adapting seat mounts and seat costs relocating further back; modern seat belts with shoulder straps and not to mention yea keeping air bags-why not.
Shows the boxed and irregular floor contour supports for the sub-frame and so fortunate the extra strength GTO floor lined up
with subframe about perfect and next pic extra toe board area floor to body bracing since losing much of the original firewall to cowl. The GTO used the bolt
in braces you see so modified to bolt into camaro.
Preparing to build in the 'B' pillar posts for the seat/shoulder straps in the inside quarters, have cut out one side of GTO 165031
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You can see the 'squashed upper right area to allow the master cylinder lid removal. Didn't want to remove any more along the vertical than had to. Yellow piece is from GTO supports the fuel/emission lines. Placed a similar 40 degree ramp support in bottom left to somewhat match both side's.
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Fabbed up the inside floor to side supports. Had to run the main wiring harness through the firewall first, covered with foil to protect it. The left made an access hole for door switch and door wiring but on right didn't have to since the blower hole is an access to that area. I have the front seats in and bolted testing the clearance's along the inner rocker and quarters in prepping the overhead flat rollbar/spoiler.
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Went with these C5 type sealed hubs and taller spindle setup from CPP and I think the best way to go without bearing maintenance and the taller spindles at 8 1/4" are about 1 1/4" taller than stock giving more lean back or caster of 5' they advertise. Spindles and hubs will need coatings and the rotors are almost 13 inches. I'm a ways from rolling but Jim/CPP is nice to offer free ship and at less than $900 with the braided caliper lines to frame too.
Going to fab some kind of deflector or pieces between the hood and the front and possibly over those cowl covers. Just make a smooth transition filler between bottom of glass to the grill pieces.
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Looks like by switching the stock aluminum motor mounts gave me plenty of space for the pinion and fitting the stock GTO headers still clears both mounts with just a little banging needed on pass side. The RT right mount is now on left/drive side. Have to 'chop' into the Flame River rack bracket on both lower sides where the compressor and alternator are. So far things are working out without a lot of sweating:fingersx:
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On to making the motor crossmember out of the GTO K-member and looks like I can easily use the Holley 302-1 pan.
Modified the 'H' member out of the GTO using the thickets section and drilling through frame along the dip and
ended up with great spacing for the Holley 302-1 pan and room enough to remove/install the rack. I utilized the GTO engine standoffs with new GTO hydraulic
rubber mounts which are vertical. Got about 2 1/2' degrees drop without any shims.
Slight carving of the R/P baracket where the compressor and alternator are. Cutting into the main subframe crossmember comes within about a 1/2" of the rear control arm. I wanted to raise both but all aftermarket bracketry are for the Sanden 508's or what not so this being a V7 variable pressure I needed or wanted to keep the compressor matched to the A/C system avoid finicky dilemmas.
Those are the GTO headers which have worked out well, just slight dimpling from roughly mocking them and looks like the Flaming River pinion can be swiveled or angled to clear through the pass header.
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Looking at under neath the RT lower control arm and the lower front compressor bolt.
To add a reinforce plate where I severed through the crossmember.
You can see the two bolt heads on the frame in lower left corner-those bolts in previous photo and all four mounted the K or H member from the
GTO which mounted from under and into the unibody framing which is reinforced in the GTO. I cut all reinforcement out of the unibody but didn't
need to use it as 10 or 12 gauge is plenty. Did use the large captive nuts from GTO up inside the member.
Have not started on the drive side alternator clearance but appears won't extend so far into the left side frame.
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I'm going to add the GTO skid plate later on for piece of mind as the new crossmember hangs almost 2" lower than the main crossmember, so not worried about ground clearance as I'm not using drop spindles, stock height CPP C5 spindle/hub setup and rack bracket and GTO floor trans crossmember are all luckily higher.
- - - Updated - - -
On the rack steering meant to say drive side of course
Installed the air/heat unit and placing wire connectors. Front half of carpet is from GTO as it form fits onto floor so then I'll integrate after
market carpet with heat barrier to meet.
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Had purchased the GTO thru COPART and car had been run off road crashing into a tree, jammed the tail house into floor
puncturing a hole about the size of a quarter where the 5th/6th fork near that spot breaking the 5th/6th synchro hub.
The condition of rest of trans is excellent, must have been rebuilt because the friction and brass and dog teeth on synchros
are in great condition. 135k on GTO, has a slight used clutch. Ordered small parts and hub assembly from Tick.
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First pic is crossmember modified from the GTO 4 bolt cradle and second is the right
crossmember carefully cut for the A/C compressor. Had to weld nuts onto member of rear lower control arms
because the Flame river rack plate blocks access. You can see I added a plate back in of rear crossmember to allow
all four compressor bolts. That gap at arm pit of subframe and that added plate has to be from underneath for bracket and bolt.
Funky shape member but have 2 1/2' drop of motor and trans and so far no shims needed.
See the modified rack bracket where the compressor cuts into, still is plenty strong-I hope!
Going with an aftermarket pulley set for alternator and pump. Alternator would cut into control arm too much.
Crossmember made from the GTO support reusing the bolts through the subframe into the GTO's capture nuts. Have 2 1/2 degrees drop with trans all set up. Nice spacing between the rack , member and pan and member is about inch lower than all else which is ideal as shall bolt in the GTO skid plate. The steering shaft fishes through the headers, having to dimple a good amount of #1 pipe only.
2nd photo see the right side compressor mod in main crossmember.
'
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Thatorange67
01-20-2020, 06:15 PM
Hey, looks great! Keep up the awesome work. I can't wait to see more progress. If you get a chance, could you take a picture of the car from further away? I'd be cool to get a 'whole car' perspective.
Got the tremec 6 speed back together, first time in this type trans with just one messup and luckily was up top in the extension countershaft where the 5th 6th gears are. Before installing that extension assembly pressing the synchronizer assembly in press the slider had popped off one side(don't ask how but no problem getting it together again). Well, after installing everything and just placing the tail house on with trans still vertical, test shifting all gears good except 5th and 6th...what? Since all gears except that one selector position wasn't moving the 5th/6th fork up top or at least acting like it wasn't down in the main case, decided to first pull out the extension shaft and sure enough the 3 keys didn't line up with the blank spaces in both blocker rings but did have the
hub keys lined up in with the sleeve indents.
Just clamping in the GTO roof reinforcement and side 'B' pillars cut out of the GTO and so happens the L/R pillar's works better switched sides on the 68 of angular proportions. The lower quarter vertical sheet metal I cut out of GTO which houses the seat belt retractor is positioned to integrate to upper 'B' pillar and all this I have to allow 1/8" to 3/16" for panel making later. All four windows will be power and I mentioned in a previous post the door scissors are about identical to first gen camaros and possibly many others which allows you to keep same tracks and window support of course, just have to position the electric motor assembly into door(that was suprising). I cut out the motor mount panel of GTO doors to use into 68. So much has played out in my favor-have been lucky on a lot of this.
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Reusing clamps and as much as I can off of GTO. Using 6mm alloy inserts for those clamps into floor and further back. Looked into aftermarket tanks with TANKS INC but right off I'm just gonna use the GTO tank to start car and all as it is a returnless/regulated in tank, quick and easy to feed into trunk hole.
About 8-10 hours I figure just to figure out how to attach and detach the overhead belt support.
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This has been a pain as 3 pieces, middle and the borrowed 'B' pillars from GTO getting it all lined up but patience paid off. The 2 heavy dzus fasteners on each side securely keeps it in place and with belt use even at 80 on road should be fine. Removable but would involve unbolting the belt attachment.
lbsurfer11
03-02-2020, 10:53 AM
Lots of amazing quality work here, Really like how the firewall turned out!
Alwhite00
03-02-2020, 12:30 PM
So it will have a “roll bar” of sorts?
Tack welded the ohead panel will have the shoulder belts at sides(you can see belt) and the GTO LED cabin light middle mount.
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I wanted to add flair to the body and about had to create something to mount the shoulder belt since I'm using the electric GTO seats and the ohead light is a plus. Thought just a rise along the quarter but just a post sticking up would be odd. I could have just welded it all in but desired to be removeable when installing the top and later finishing in the previous back seat interior area, no head bumping. Course later coverings for all this.
Set up a saw horse to hold doors and the only mod was welding casters on.
Positioning the radiator/fan unit/condensor assembly from GTO to make sure A/C hard lines and electrical will easily reach.
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Getting lucky with feeding this low side return hose through the cowl hole.
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Have the radiator, clutch master and recovery brackets made. Reused the GTO connecting coolant pipes. Not much space for the battery tray in RF corner, battery fits so may modify the tray. The long relay box and the cruise control has to be on the pass side fender-well so that side will be crowded. Have all brake lines in, just have the rear brake line to connect up. Spun the steering pump, new rack reacts so looks good. Can barely see the steering cooler below piping all on same bracket. 176443
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Gmc427
05-31-2020, 05:32 AM
Shows the boxed and irregular floor contour supports for the sub-frame and so fortunate the extra strength GTO floor lined up
with subframe about perfect and next pic extra toe board area floor to body bracing since losing much of the original firewall to cowl. The GTO used the bolt
in braces you see so modified to bolt into camaro.
Preparing to build in the 'B' pillar posts for the seat/shoulder straps in the inside quarters, have cut out one
165032**** im glad im on the other side of the world from this death trap
Can you tell me what is so 'deathly'? I'm building a 'safe and solid car', better than factory. Are you a car builder or just an armor all applier?
BMR Sales
06-02-2020, 05:29 AM
always gonna be haters out there, don't worry about it
Gmc427
06-07-2020, 02:00 AM
always gonna be haters out there, don't worry about it
mate not being a hater ,the fab work and welding on this have a lot to be desired
The floor to dash meet came very close with the floor probably about a 1/2 inch rearward of dash support/cowl but that’s OK there’s no real conflict. 177162
TANKMASTERJ
06-24-2020, 08:33 PM
That's basically what they did with the car built for the Monster Drink
That's basically what they did with the car built for the Monster Drink
I like to know what the car and link if possible the only one I know of is this 69 Firebird that I came across AFTER I started this: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1267311-ls1-t56-69-ta-vert.html
dhutton
06-26-2020, 05:01 PM
I like to know what the car and link if possible the only one I know of is this 69 Firebird that I came across AFTER I started this: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1267311-ls1-t56-69-ta-vert.html
West Coast Customs
https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x3xhbxp
Don
TANKMASTERJ
06-27-2020, 09:32 PM
Yep that's it. What a. Job! But if you got the Fab skills it's sure cheaper than an entire aftermarket setup
The cruise motor/controller, fuse box, battery to mount yet. Steering purged, brakes ready, the clutch is a Spec stage 1 with a 7/8" tick master so pedal effort is on the tough side. Lining up body gaps. Waiting on the right elbow for the KN filter, just filter web for now. Almost ready to start. I think the battery will go between the motor and radiator. 179279
Used the GTO handbrake cables linking to the drum cables crisscrossing up top of rear and that worked out nice.179281179280
Vimes
09-12-2020, 05:05 PM
I think the battery will go between the motor and radiator.
I recommend rethinking putting the battery between the engine and radiator. In a front end collision, that could cause the battery to be pinned between the engine and whatever was hit. The danger isn't so much that the battery case would be crushed, it's more that the battery would be grounded against the engine block. This dead short would likely cause the battery to explode. If you happened to pass over the results of a ruptured fuel tank as the battery blew, it wouldn't look too good for the home team.
It looks like there's enough room for the battery in front of the passenger side front wheel. If not, I'd move it to the trunk. 0ga cable is enough to carry current from the trunk to the starter, and you can use 6ga cable to run the charge side of the alternator to the starter as well, which will work fine to charge the battery. I normally use welding cable with wire loom around it for this, and it works great.
That’s a good point Vimes about an explosion, yeah can’t wiggle this battery in the way I have that radiator and all and I sized up a few optimas their not much smaller so thinking about cutting a flap in the wheel well slide it up that way, possibility. That LS1 is set back 8” so not Concerned with front end weight and I may still have to trim coils as haven’t set it on floor yet.
Vimes
09-14-2020, 08:07 PM
Something I've thought about on contemplated projects is to use a couple of smaller batteries instead of a larger one as is traditional. This was to put the batteries in a tight area where a regular battery wouldn't. If they are wired in parallel the amperage adds but the voltage stays the same. If the added amperage is the same as a single battery, then it's the same as a single battery. If you dig around on the Summit website they have a whole mess of batteries along with their dimensions, so you should be able to find something that will fit. LiPO batteries are also pretty small for an equivalent cold cranking amperage, but they come with their own set of problems.
dhutton
09-17-2020, 05:59 PM
Something I've thought about on contemplated projects is to use a couple of smaller batteries instead of a larger one as is traditional. This was to put the batteries in a tight area where a regular battery wouldn't. If they are wired in parallel the amperage adds but the voltage stays the same. If the added amperage is the same as a single battery, then it's the same as a single battery. If you dig around on the Summit website they have a whole mess of batteries along with their dimensions, so you should be able to find something that will fit. LiPO batteries are also pretty small for an equivalent cold cranking amperage, but they come with their own set of problems.
Charging and using parallel batteries is a bit of a can of worms.
I would put the battery in the trunk like most folks do.
Don
Vimes
09-18-2020, 09:12 PM
Not really, it's just a matter of extending the wires positive to positive and negative to negative, and keeping the extensions the same length. It only becomes a problem if you try using batteries of different age, like only replace one when there's a problem, or if you try using two different capacity or types of batteries. Batteries have been getting wired in series, parallel or series/parallel configurations for over 100 years. So long as both batteries are the same brand, size and age, it would work fine and would solve fitment problems. We do agree on a single battery being the best way to go because just one is simpler, but if the OP needed to use two smaller ones to fit it would work fine.
slazisme
09-20-2020, 07:54 AM
Went with these C5 type sealed hubs and taller spindle setup from CPP and I think the best way to go without bearing maintenance and the taller spindles at 8 1/4" are about 1 1/4" taller than stock giving more lean back or caster of 5' they advertise. Spindles and hubs will need coatings and the rotors are almost 13 inches. I'm a ways from rolling but Jim/CPP is nice to offer free ship and at less than $900 with the braided caliper lines to frame too.
Kudo's to you for undertaking this magnitude of a build! Keep up your work.
Wondering if you can give me a dimension, I already have C6 brakes with stock 1st gen spindles, been thinking about CPP's spindle setup. I need the caliper mounting bracket bolt spacing on the CPP spindle to see if my vette calipers will bolt up to the spindles. Thanks in advance if you can help.
TANKMASTERJ
09-20-2020, 11:29 AM
Kinda. Like Vimes said parallel batteries can work fine. I've got lots of heavy equipment. Cranes, dozers, excavators, air compressors dump trucks 18 wheelers you name it. Most are either multiple battery 12v parallel setups or twin battery 24v sets wired in series to get 24v . All charge and work fine
But I see Don's point, why reinvent the wheel. Trunk is a suitable position and adds weight to the rear.
Was looking at optima dimensions but so far their pretty similar in size and the convertible
has ballast tanks at all four corners somewhat taking some precious space, too cramped. I'm thinking of a plastic battery box.
179722
Looks like 8 1/8" center to center eye balling since the curve bulge can't get down to front of bolts.
Went to start it and just a click. Have a horn attached, no door locks on wiring, all dash and controllers in and when connecting in battery goes into alarm, push remote either lock or unlock and quits but then the security flash in IP prevents to start. If anyone has been there on a 04-6 GTO what it takes to disarm I'd appreciate it.
dhutton
09-28-2020, 04:08 PM
Went to start it and just a click. Have a horn attached, no door locks on wiring, all dash and controllers in and when connecting in battery goes into alarm, push remote either lock or unlock and quits but then the security flash in IP prevents to start. If anyone has been there on a 04-6 GTO what it takes to disarm I'd appreciate it.
You will need to have the ECM reflashed to disable the anti theft. Probably some other stuff too. Emissions for example. Any competent tuner can do it.
Don
dhutton
09-28-2020, 04:11 PM
Many guys including me have run trunk mounted batteries in first gen convertible Camaros. I can’t think of a worse place for a battery with the radiator heat blasting on it. Really bad idea imho....
Don
Good point Don, battery would be exposed to excessive heat between the radiator and motor.
I don't see a reflash needed, whatever that means-gonna contact a mobile key programmer stop in.
I want to keep the VATS, shall use the door locks and the alarm system. Good for insurance too.
Decided to do some more cutting of the RF wheel well some just enough to accommodate a battery into front corner.
Don't believe the tire bounce would get very close.
Well I had looked at the BCM before and just assumed a plug wasn't needed in that one spot-it was slung up...connected and now the motor turns over.
This is the general idea at the base and shall use the longer or taller coupe windshield
will about reach the cowl trim lips. At the rear edge of stock flat hood I'm using nearly
follows the curve of trim, I'll have to make a transition metal trim piece out of the
GTO hood. Comes next as I finish the front upper header and lower valance.
Those two holes are for the GTO wiper posts.
180826
181124 1/16" rubber steel edging around spoiler. 181125 181126
Want to wrap spoiler with something like the RC airplane wing fuselage material, hide my cruddy welding-hah! The vertical supports will be hidden with panels.
Peanut1959
11-15-2020, 05:39 PM
Spoiler or roll bar?
Made out of the side 'B' pillars and roof support from GTO and in itself could support a mild roll but with only 4 aluminum dzus fasteners attaching to plates I wouldn't depend on it with top down; top mechanism up there's more support if something serious. Main purpose to use the shoulder belt mounts and interior light.
Motor/trans out of wrecked 04 GTO the MAF sensor and the IAC valve quit. New MAF now runs right, waiting for the IAC but running good so far.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VvN55sDm8Is
All play to me as when I was a kid playing with not just models but 'making' my own things such as a with an erector set at probably 8 yrs old, wittling wood and leather later, and after I altered my bicycle with gears, kept my mini bike going, lots of little things I learned to manipulate. Chip Foose and and Kindigit I admire cause they can draw, and design, and work things though I haven't seen Dave do much but eat and drink but I like him, and anything they do some of us can do or more..just so few are on TV.
182202
The convertible has 3 layers of steel sandwiched along the side opening's of the trunk, the quarter on the top, gutters circling the trunk and then under are the 12g supports extending most of quarter and another piece side to side in front of trunk opening. This all has to be mocked very precise all together.
Like the 67 taillights and the 69 back up lamps, ridetech billet gas fill but as of now the GTO tank is in trunk plumbed temporarily though may be semi permanent as I can run the tailpipes straight out..hmmm. Body touch ups needed.
182468
Like the rack steering feel(Flaming River with LS1 pump restricted to approx 850psi); trans rebuild went well; bit tough hydraulic clutch with a SPEC1; C5 brakes are super, had drums all way around all these years;shall use same size rims tires in rear.
183062
Swap out the rearend 1 1/4”studs for longer 1 3/4” to mount the Boyd wheels. Acorn bullet nuts and compared to say the old mag wheels well those lug nuts spaced inside of the wheels so you didn’t need to change the studs on those old mag wheels.
4” fog lights shine white with pvc housing and chrome trim rings. Use a relay to control the live side as the lights are grounded thru brackets and wire harness controls ground side of all lighting from GTO. [attach=config]185589[/attach
Now been blocking and straightening for paint
Got the paint job done, very happy for a garage job need buffing out the dust and a few dog hairs.
193550
Have left: glass, door assembly’s, top and trim, GPS/radio/speakers, alignment, sagging leaf, cover spoiler etc. Eventually will install regular tank with pwm pump, ditch GTO tank sitting in trunk.
194453. 194454
ryeguy2006a
12-08-2021, 11:59 AM
Looks great man, really came together. I'd suggest Rick's Restomod tank with Vaporworx PWM controller. Great setup.
Looks great man, really came together. I'd suggest Rick's Restomod tank with Vaporworx PWM controller. Great setup.
Is the 4-link the preferred setup and worthwhile in rear? Want to do a change there sometime, harsh leafs. Appreciate the compliments and suggestions!
In 2021 I misdiagnosed from trouble codes blaming the MAF and IAC valve as later the LS1 would still stall and hesitate so digging to find the 5v line out of ECM feeds the TPS, AC pressure switch, oil switch possibly the MAF(have to look at schematic)was reading about 2 1/2v, so unplugging one at a time until the oil switch unplugged allowed 5V to come up. The donor car was wrecked causing a failed part and malfunctioning controls.
This is the 'look' of the GTO windshield base with the GTO wiper motor assembly and grill. 200005
So far so good with cool air all out of the 04 GTO
:cool:
200683
Motown 454
06-30-2022, 10:49 AM
Wow amazing job!
Appreciate the compliment! Been skimming yours and it is a grand one! Love it and like others hope your back in the saddle
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