View Full Version : 70 c10 long to short (when I get to it)
chevelletiger
11-06-2018, 10:02 PM
Bought this a yr ago just went over my friends house to remove the wheels to get new tires for it.
Cost me$1000.00 has new rubber and trim parts with it.
Needs driver rocker, and some floor cancer,but cab is good on roof.350 was rebuilt 20yrs ago from the farm it came from.
I will shorten it,and still on the fence on coilovers or bags.
I will be doing s Frame off on this and shooting it the white and gold two tone.
chevelletiger
11-27-2018, 06:16 PM
I got the bed off the frame on Mon.
Can somebody answer a question for me.
I'm planning to shorten this long bed but I'm going to change it to the truck arm suspension, will this crossmember work with the trailing arms?
chevelletiger
09-15-2019, 07:36 AM
Picked up a swb frame for $200.00 after 4th of July weekend,was in contact over a yr with the guy and finale got it.
It had some janky repair on the front frame rails,had cracks.
I vee cut both sides of the cracks and welded them up and ground them smooth.
I had to source another crossmember.
I will be c notching the rear.
Now,bags,coilovers,or drop coils??
raustinss
09-15-2019, 08:33 AM
I was pretty sure all 67-72 were cool sprung truck arm suspension. Yes ?
Sbeck09
09-17-2019, 08:18 AM
Now,bags,coilovers,or drop coils??
I would say that answer has to do with the intended final purpose of the truck. Personally, I greatly dislike bags, but if you want to lay frame or at least be "super slammed" that is probably the route to go. If you just want more of a cruiser for riding around then drop coils are certainly budget friendly and easy. If you want to do any kind of solid handling, performance, or at least spirited driving then I'll ALWAYS suggest coilovers.
Nice to have options like this when you are working with a well-supported platform. Good luck!
Slick68
09-18-2019, 07:53 AM
I was pretty sure all 67-72 were cool sprung truck arm suspension. Yes ?
A majority were, but not all of them. Typically, Chevys were standard with coil spring rear, and GMCs were leaf spring, but either was an option.
WallaceMFG
09-18-2019, 08:04 AM
A majority were, but not all of them. Typically, Chevys were standard with coil spring rear, and GMCs were leaf spring, but either was an option.
This. Back in the day, Chevys were the "nice" trucks and GMCs were the "work" trucks. But you could get either setup in either truck.
You could run drop spindles in the front instead of springs that way you don't compromise the ride quality too much, with drop coils for the rear. Consider getting a longer panhard bar for the truck arms though. From the factory they had a short panhard bar that can cause some rear steer when hitting bumps.
Peter Mc Mahon
09-18-2019, 08:54 AM
Find the article online about how to make that model/era of truck handle by Rob Macgregor
Slick68
09-19-2019, 04:25 AM
Find the article online about how to make that model/era of truck handle by Rob Macgregor
You're probably referring to this thread. --> http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=419251
Lots of info, but hard to take it all in at once.
Slick68
09-19-2019, 04:56 AM
Picked up a swb frame for $200.00 after 4th of July weekend,was in contact over a yr with the guy and finale got it.
It had some janky repair on the front frame rails,had cracks.
I vee cut both sides of the cracks and welded them up and ground them smooth.
I had to source another crossmember.
I will be c notching the rear.
Now,bags,coilovers,or drop coils??
As Sbeck09 mentioned, you need to decide what the end result will be and what you plan to do with the truck when finished. If just a cruiser, I recommend using Early Classic Enterprises (www.earlyclassic.com) drop kits, or taking the next step to the Ridetech Streetgrip system (https://www.ridetech.com/applications/trucks/1963-1972-c-10-truck/1963-1972-c10-streetgrip-system/?cookies_accepted=Y). If you're after corner carving performance for track days or autocross, then look into a coilover setup. Just keep this in mind: You get what you pay for!! Buy from someone with a good reputation and proven performance, not just claims. Since you're not too far away, go by and check out TCI Engineering (https://totalcostinvolved.com/product-category/1963-1972-chevy-c10-truck/). Ask for Evan or Mario, and tell them Slick sent you. I have no experience with airbags to give any advice.
79 Camaro
09-19-2019, 02:13 PM
On my 68 C10 I went with the following. I wasn't looking for all out Pro Tour truck more as I describe as Pro-Fun. It handles well and stops well.
1. Front 2.5" drop spindles modded by "Waytolow" (from the C10 site listed above) for 13" C5 Corvette calipers and rotors. Also Bell Tech 2" drop springs with their shocks. CCP big front sway bar.
2. The ECE LS mounts didn't play well with my Fbody oil pan. Also the engine mounts should be changed to lower the engine at least 1/2" to reduce the engine angle with a T56.
3. In the rear Bell Tech 4" drop springs and shocks. 2" spacers for a total of 6" drop.
4. Rear brakes. 12" 97 fbody rotors and calipers with the e-brake built into the caliper. Fabbed my own brackets.
5. Rear end. Stock 12 bolt. Moser axles 4.75 bolt circle. Hub ends machined to match the fbody disc hub ID. Auburn Posi.
6. Depending on the amount lowered the axle trailing cross member opening for the drive shaft needs to opened up for drive shaft clearance. I would do whatever possible to get the oil pan within a 1/4" the cross member or less to get the engine angle reduced.
Just my.02. Good luck your project.
chevelletiger
10-19-2019, 12:21 PM
On my 68 C10 I went with the following. I wasn't looking for all out Pro Tour truck more as I describe as Pro-Fun. It handles well and stops well.
1. Front 2.5" drop spindles modded by "Waytolow" (from the C10 site listed above) for 13" C5 Corvette calipers and rotors. Also Bell Tech 2" drop springs with their shocks. CCP big front sway bar.
2. The ECE LS mounts didn't play well with my Fbody oil pan. Also the engine mounts should be changed to lower the engine at least 1/2" to reduce the engine angle with a T56.
3. In the rear Bell Tech 4" drop springs and shocks. 2" spacers for a total of 6" drop.
4. Rear brakes. 12" 97 fbody rotors and calipers with the e-brake built into the caliper. Fabbed my own brackets.
5. Rear end. Stock 12 bolt. Moser axles 4.75 bolt circle. Hub ends machined to match the fbody disc hub ID. Auburn Posi.
6. Depending on the amount lowered the axle trailing cross member opening for the drive shaft needs to opened up for drive shaft clearance. I would do whatever possible to get the oil pan within a 1/4" the cross member or less to get the engine angle reduced.
Just my.02. Good luck your project.
Do you have any pics of your c10 stance?
79 Camaro
10-19-2019, 04:52 PM
Pics on thread LS1 short box posted on 11-17.
For what ever reason I struggle to post pics on this forum.
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