View Full Version : DSE engine mount kit and steering u-joint
Alponcho
08-31-2018, 03:33 PM
I have a DSE subframe installed on my 70 Firebird, and I tried to mock up the steering column today so I can get my headers made. One problem I'm having is that I cannot get at the set screw on the Borgeson U-joint that's attached to the steering rack. It's buried in DSE engine mount bracket needed to install a Pontiac engine and there's no way to get an allen wrench in there regardless of the way it's clocked. Wondering if anyone has run into this, and if so, how it was resolved?
Also, I purchased a single u-joint to attach to the column and a double u-joint that attaches to the steering rack. With this set up, will I need to use a support bearing? If so, I'm wondering if I can get away with two singles instead? I just don't see a good place on the frame to install a bracket for the support bearing.
Alponcho
09-04-2018, 03:56 PM
After doing more digging, I found that Unisteer makes steering u-joints with pinch bolt fasteners. Wondering if the pinch bolts would be easier to get to than the set screws on the Borgeson u-joints. Anyone?
icemanrd19
09-04-2018, 04:53 PM
Text me a picture to 9728148824. I’m sure we can figure this out or post a pic on gere
Alponcho
09-04-2018, 05:36 PM
Here's a photo... best one I will have until Friday
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/09/IMG_7048_zpsaxmmenu0-1.jpg (http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/jefflepine/media/IMG_7048_zpsaxmmenu0.jpg.html)
dhutton
09-04-2018, 05:45 PM
Could you assemble the u-joint to the rack before installing the rack? Or install the u-joint before installing the motor mount?
Don
badazz81z28
09-05-2018, 12:38 AM
Could you assemble the u-joint to the rack before installing the rack? Or install the u-joint before installing the motor mount?
Don
I removed the allen head set screw and swapped it out with square head set scew. Grinded the head off to make the head shorter. At a specific clocking, you can fit a small wrench in there to tighten it. I cut a Allen wrench to gain access to another set screw, but I forget which one. Single joints on both ends. Column side has a vibration damper. Loctite on all screws.
Alponcho
09-05-2018, 04:45 PM
The square head set screw is something I will try.
Though, the more I think about it, the more I'm wondering if I should just go ahead and remove the rack and install the u-joint on the input shaft on my bench. This way I can make sure that set screw is really tight. It's been a while since I assembled the subframe...so I can't remember exactly how much time this might take or what I have to remove other than the tie rod ends.
I also think I'm going to start from scratch with the u-joints. First, according to the folks at Borgeson, I cannot run a double u-joint and a single u-joint without a support bearing, so I have to replace the double at the rack regardless. Second, I gather I should run a vibration reducing u-joint, and given that it takes up more real estate than a regular u-joint, it should probably go on the column end. Third, the u-joints and shaft are natural steel, and I probably should go with stainless.
badazz81z28
09-05-2018, 07:11 PM
You’ll be able to get it tight with a square head set screw more so then a Allen wrench.
They are more expensive, but I went all stainless. As for the lower shaft on the rack, you have to consider the set screws holding the bar are more critical. As long as those set screws are secure that set-up is not going anywhere. I suggest during mock up see where the set screws locate on the bar and drill “detents” in it for the set screws to sit in. Measure twice, drill once the stainless stock bar is expensive. Yes I did it twice lol.
You’ll be able to get it tight with a square head set screw more so then a Allen wrench.
They are more expensive, but I went all stainless. As for the lower shaft on the rack, you have to consider the set screws holding the bar are more critical. As long as those set screws are secure that set-up is not going anywhere. I suggest during mock up see where the set screws locate on the bar and drill “detents” in it for the set screws to sit in. Measure twice, drill once the stainless stock bar is expensive. Yes I did it twice lol.
I am not sure if I may have an isolated incident or not but I replaced all the bolts on a quad with stainless. They constantly came loose. I spoke with one of the old engineers at work and he said he was not surprised about it. I know everyone runs SS bolts but I wanted to mention it simply because it is in your steering shaft so you can keep an eye on it. In my instance the whole story is that I powdercoated the frame. I then had to tap out all the threads to remove the powdercoat so maybe that effected something. All bolts were properly torqued and had no loctite (originally).
badazz81z28
09-06-2018, 06:51 AM
I am not sure if I may have an isolated incident or not but I replaced all the bolts on a quad with stainless. They constantly came loose. I spoke with one of the old engineers at work and he said he was not surprised about it. I know everyone runs SS bolts but I wanted to mention it simply because it is in your steering shaft so you can keep an eye on it. In my instance the whole story is that I powdercoated the frame. I then had to tap out all the threads to remove the powdercoat so maybe that effected something. All bolts were properly torqued and had no loctite (originally).
All my critical bolts have loctite red, high performance. There’s two different reds. They won’t vibrate out with loctite if installed properly.
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