Subframe connectors 68 camaro

[jasonz28camaro]

Looking for some input on subframe connectors for my 68 camaro. I'll be installing them and prefer a weldin connector and possibly an option of bolting to the front subframe in case I ever need to remove it. I just installed solid body mounts and it helped but not as much as I'd like it to stiffen things up. My car has a factory subframe and a Ridetech 4-link with the muscle bar.

I have DSE connectors on my radar but feel free to chime in with other options and experience with them. I also think that these are one of the more labor intense installs so this is about as far as I would like to go in relation to hours and difficulty as I will be doing the work.

[b17brian]

DSE connectors! Great fit and they tuck up to the floor. You can put bolts in the front tabs so the subframe is removable.

[jasonz28camaro]

Do you mean weld the ears to the subframe then bold the ears to the connectors where the plug welds are supposed to go?

[TheJDMan]

The DSE subframe connectors get my vote as well. A lot of people weld the ears to the end of the subframe and bolt them to the connector. I chose to weld mine in. I suspect I can cut the weld much quicker then unbolting should I ever need to remove the sub. The DSE connectors are not difficult to weld in just take your time and once installed they tuck up very nicely to the bottom of the car. The added advantage is that you can weld roll bar supports to the top of them which just ties the structure together that much more.

[jasonz28camaro]

Guess you could always just cut them later if needed. For anyone that bolted them, do you need to install sleeves inside the connectors so you can put some torque on it when tightening or will the boxed connector hold?

Now that you mentioned a roll bar, I'm curious to see if anyone has tied these together and improved this design at all or if its even needed. Speedtech sells connectors similar to DSE but they connect to eachother. I wonder if you could do something similar with the DSE connectos but make it more hidden? I see how the rollbar would keep things stiffer but would like to keep the inside of the car how it is.

[b17brian]

Yes weld the tabs to the subframe and bolt them to the connectors. I welded sleeves inside the connectors to ensure they didn’t crush when I tightened the bolts.

[jasonz28camaro]

Thanks for the pic.

So what did you do to weld the sleeves in? I'm assuming you welded the tabs to the subframe than mocked up the connector, traced the holes, removed the connector, drilled and installed the sleeves prior to capping and fully instlling the connectors?

[btmatt]

I ended up with Chassisworks connectors, adapters to stock subframe, and g-connector on Mark Savitske's suggestion. Connectors tuck well and are bolt in. I wanted something with similar torsional stability as a car with a roll bar and g-connector provides that. When installed, I can put a jack on the front corner and raise the rear wheel once the front is a few inches off the pavement. The negative is that the g-connector makes fitting your exhaust (especially 3" tubes) a bear. Not impossible, but definitely not easy. Good Luck

[jasonz28camaro]

I ended up with Chassisworks connectors, adapters to stock subframe, and g-connector on Mark Savitske's suggestion. Connectors tuck well and are bolt in. I wanted something with similar torsional stability as a car with a roll bar and g-connector provides that. When installed, I can put a jack on the front corner and raise the rear wheel once the front is a few inches off the pavement. The negative is that the g-connector makes fitting your exhaust (especially 3" tubes) a bear. Not impossible, but definitely not easy. Good Luck

Ive seen the chassisworks adapters and thought of incorporating them with the DSE connectors prior to hearing about bolting the connectors as mentioned above, they look cool but are pricey. The g-connector looks like it would do the job I'm looking for but it has a heafty price. I was wondering if the DSE connectors would do a sililar affect when jacking up the front corner.

[b17brian]

Thanks for the pic.

So what did you do to weld the sleeves in? I'm assuming you welded the tabs to the subframe than mocked up the connector, traced the holes, removed the connector, drilled and installed the sleeves prior to capping and fully instlling the connectors? I actually clamped the tabs to the connector and drilled the holes before I put them in the car. I next welded the sleeves inside the connector. Then I welded the end cap on the connector. I didn’t have to sleeve the hole closest to the end because the end cap strengthens the end. Lastly the tabs were welded to the subframe.

[jasonz28camaro]

Thanks guys! I got a set and I'll install them over the next few weeks and let yall know how it goes.

[nickburns]

@jasonz28camaro - Did you ever follow through and get these welded up?

[jasonz28camaro]

No lol. I pulled The interior and found rot on the floor and it turned into a thing. I’m going to put my new motor and trans in this week and then start on them after i get Some weight in the car again.

I started A build thread on ls1tech and lateral-g if you would like to check it out. I was Going to put it up on here but i have Trouble uploading photos on my phone. https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1909325-68-camaro-build-gen-v-swap.html

[jasonz28camaro]

I got them installed and the car is in pieces still so I will not be able to drive it or a few months.

My original problem and why I want to add these was to stiffen up the body so my tires would not rub when the ridetech 4link articulated a bunch like going up a driveway. When I go up my driveway the body flexes so much that the tire goes up into the wheel well so high that it hits the rear area of the fender where it gets more narrow towards the rear bumber, it does not hit in the center of the wheel well. After I installed the connectors I could tell it helped, I can jack up one of the front wheels and the rear almost wants to lift and the opposite front tires does lift off the ground.Prior to the connectors if I did this test all other 3 tires were firmly planted on the ground. My trans corssmember was not bolted in either (just sitting there holding my trans) when doing this test, it may add more ridged? Theres a picture in my build thread on at post #12 https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1909325-68-camaro-build-gen-v-swap.html

My next question is based on spring rear spring rates. I spoke to Ridetech today and explained my issue and he told me one thing I could do is up the spring rate. I'm currently at 200lbs and he suggested 225-250 to make the articulation less and making the car a little more solid, I never even thought of this but it does make since. Prior to installing the connectors I did the muscle bar and it did nothing for me. Anyone running 225-250lbs springs, if so how does it feel? Ridetech also said they use a 225lb rear spring for cars with a minitub and wide wheels to avoid the wide tire to travel too high. my tire is a 275/60/15.


On another note, I currently have a 28" tall tire that is contributing to my issue in a big way, a 26" tire could solve the issue too but I'm curious about the higher spring rates anyway.