Project Grey Ghost - 1988 Mustang LX Hatchback

[frink84]

Let me introduce you to my weekend toy and “life” car, the Grey Ghost.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/06/Ch5ZdXfl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/Ch5ZdXf)

Long story short, its an 88 Mustang LX Hatchback acting as my weekend/auto-x/fun car, with the following mods:

Engine/Underhood/Exhaust


Edelbrock Performer 5.0 Heads
Crane 2031 Cam
FMS GT40 Tubular Intake w/ ported lower
Omega 1.72 Roller Rockers
FMS 24lb-hr injectors
BBK 190lph fuel pump
Accufab 70mm throttle body/EGR
C&L 76mm MAF
Moroso Fenderwell CAI
BBK Underdrive Pulleys
Ford 3G Alternator w/ LMR wiring (https://wordpress.com/post/whatdoesphilknow.wordpress.com/592)
Ford Contour Dual Electric Fans
Hollister Road Fan Controller
High Torque Mini-starter (https://wordpress.com/post/whatdoesphilknow.wordpress.com/592)
JBA Shorty Unequal Length Headers
Bassani Catted X-Pipe
MAC 2.5" Catback with 3" Blackout Tips

Driveline/Brakes


Tremec TR-3550 w/ straight-cut gears
Pro5.0 Short Shifter
MGW Adjustable Shift Handle w/ Delrin Shift Knob
Fox-width 5-lug rear-end with 3.73 gears, welded tubes, FMS Differential Cover
SN95 Mach1 13" 2-piston front disk brakes
Thunderbird 10" single-piston rear disk brakes
Maximum Motorsports Stainless Brake Lines
Ford Motorsports Adjustable Proportioning Valve

Suspension/Steering/Chassis


Maximum Motorsports/Bilstein Coilovers - 350lb front, 250lb rear
Maximum Motorsports Caster/Camber Plates
Maximum Motorsports Rear Race-Duty Coilover Mounts
Maximum Motorsports 4-point K-Member Brace
Maximum Motorsports Extreme Duty Rear Lower Control Arms
SN95 GT Rear Sway Bar
Prothane Polyurethane Front Control Arm Bushings, Front Sway Bar Bushings & Endlinks, Trans Mount
Maximum Motorsports Solid Steering Rack Bushings
Subframe Connectors

Wheels/Tires


SVE Drift 18x9 ET24 Front Wheels with Hankook Ventus V12 245/40/18 tires
SVE Drift 18x10 ET22 Rear Wheels with Hankook Ventus V12 275/40/18 tires

Misc


LED gauge, interior, running lights
VDO Gauges below radio (Water Temp, Oil Pressure, Volts)
Pioneer head unit, Infiniti/Pioneer Speakers


Long story long, it’s a modified Foxbody 5.0 Mustang. It has been in the family for it’s entire life. My grandpa bought the car new in 88. He picked out this hatchback LX 5.0 sport, mineral grey with grey interior, AOD, power windows, AC, cruise, and premium sound.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/06/ZEq0ql-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/ZEq0q)
That’s me checking it out on the little Porsche. I had good taste.

Under his watch, it received a number of modifications; including Edelbrock Performer heads & intake, Crane cam, hardened pushrods, 1.72 roller rockers, 70mm BBK EGR/TB, BBK strut tower brace, BBK k-member brace, subframe connectors, BBK RCA’s, shift kit, Lincoln MKVIII 5-lug conversion, BBK lowering springs, Flowmaster catback, MAC catted H-pipe, JBA headers, MSD ignition, Moroso fenderwell CAI, 76mm MAF.... all the basic bolt-ons.

He tried to give the car to me when I was 16. My parents said no, unbeknownst to me at the time. He later gifted the car to me after suffering from a stroke, in August of 2004. The car looked like this:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/06/HbkPpl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/HbkPp)

I began working on some of the issues with the car with the help of my dad "Cryptic Father". Most of the work was bringing it up to date, as most of the mods had been done in the late 90’s/early 2000’s. On 6/6/06, the AOD destroyed itself, and a rebuilt AOD was put in, with upgraded clutch packs, shift kit, etc. I should have put in a manual at this point. What’s that saying about hindsight? Then, on the SCS New Year’s Fun-run of ‘08, the front brakes decided they needed to go, by locking up the passenger caliper. I pieced together an SN95 Cobra setup on the cheap using Mach-1 parts (same stuff, less flashy paint), and swapped to 17x8” Bullitt wheels, in order to clear the 13” rotors:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/06/mLS2Ql-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/mLS2Q)

After that, it got a proper suspension: Maximum Motorsports/Bilstein coil-overs, Maximum Motorsports Extreme Duty RCA’s and a fox-length rear end. Like any fox story, there is no end to the towtruck adventures. The AOD decided to die on the way home from work in October of 2010. So I did what should have been done back in 2006, and added the man pedal via a Tremec TR-3550 5-speed manual. It came with straight-cut gears, a Pro5.0 shifter, and an aftermarket quadrant/adjuster. In an effort to “Go wide or go home”, I picked up a pair of 17x10.5” Bullitts.
And then the throttle shaft broke in 2011, and it started running strange and smoking like a chimney. I then found that it had low compression in cylinder #3 (100psi) while all the others had ~170psi. My dad, Cryptic Father and I found the adjuster on one of the rockers had backed out, effectively killing cylinder #3. We repaired the rocker and the car was back.
In 2012 I upgraded the car to its current form, with 18x9/18x10 SVE Drift wheels, a tubular GT40 intake with ported lower, electric fan setup, and a catted x-pipe. I was constantly chasing strange check engine lights and rough running and got really frustrated with the car. I ended up parking the car at my parents in 2014 and walking away for a few years. I just didn’t have the time, space, money, or patience to take care of it. In the time since I parked it, I had a few bimmers, a datsun pickup, and a S197 Mustang racecar to keep me busy.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/06/Q8p7IoEl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/Q8p7IoE)

With my recent move to Texas, I knew the car could finally make a comeback. I towed it back using a diesel Suburban in a rather exciting adventure (https://medium.com/@philkostka/that-time-i-drove-from-ca-to-tx-in-a-3-000-suburban-415de5baca93). During the car’s downtime I extensively researched potential fixes, and occasionally tinkered with the car at my parent’s place. I ended up ordering a new regulator and wiring kit for the 3G alternator I had swapped in 2009, which used admittedly weak factory SN95 wiring. Turns out my gamble paid off, and the Ghost now runs better than ever.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/06/SRGUOPJl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/SRGUOPJ)

Whats next? Well, the tires are old, the cooling system is lagging in the Texas heat, the paint is royally screwed, and I need to get rid of the factory-style 4-link rear suspension. Also, keep driving the heck out of it.

[Bossed]

Very cool story, look forward to updates.

[Project Bike Truck]

The ghost lives!
Can’t wait for future mods!

[RMMiller]

Sounds like it was an adventure! Your Grandpa had good taste, good thing he kept it and had the right person to pass it along to.

[rickpaw]

Welcome. Sounded like you had quite an adventure towing the car to Texas.

Keep us posted on the Ghost updates.

[Josh@Ridetech]

Fun cars! Be sure to keep us updated on it.

[WallaceMFG]

Cool story! Your car has many of the upgrades I would like for mine on it already!

[frink84]

Scored a deal on a bunch of Maximum Motorsports goodies. Unfortunately, all of it is in California at my parent's house for the time being. We're driving out for a family trip for Christmas so I will pick up the parts then.
Torque Arm
Panhard Bar
Tubular Front A-Arms
Along with some SN95 rack bushings, bump steer kit, steering shaft, brake lines, etc. that will most likely be sold off if I can't adapt them to the fox chassis.

Also for my birthday things came together for the cooling system, so the following are also waiting in the wings:
Auto Dynasty 3-row Aluminum Radiator (https://amzn.to/2ljiOeG) - had a fox buddy turn me on to these. Cheap and works great, apparently.
POR-15 Super Starter Kit Black Rust Paint (https://amzn.to/2M9tPL8) - saw some rust on the bottom of the core support so that will be handled with the radiator
EMP PN301 180 Degree Fahrenheit High-Performance Thermostat (https://amzn.to/2JUWVB9) - this badass has basically the highest flow and fastest opening rate of any thermostat out there and has a better bypass to help burp the system after installation. Found out about EMP during my BMW days, excited to see how this works.
Bosch 13942 Oxygen Sensors (https://amzn.to/2tpna7x) - I think some of the funny running conditions that have popped up here and there are the very old oxygen sensors. I had one out to do the starter and it looked a little crusty. Better safe than sorry, especially for $26/each.

[frink84]

Started pulling the car apart for the radiator install. The old radiator was, well, lets just say it was time!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/06/YPk6PhIl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/YPk6PhI)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/06/8cCInHIl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/8cCInHI)

I sprayed down the core support with my favorite degreaser, LA's Best from the 99 Cents store. After agitating with a wire brush and a wipe-down, the core support appears to just have some surface rust. POR-15 will come to the rescue.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/06/uiJB1eKl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/uiJB1eK)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/06/uIrDLHal-1.jpg?1 (https://imgur.com/uIrDLHa)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/06/R3gZEv9l-1.jpg?1 (https://imgur.com/R3gZEv9)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/06/7pcBDHal-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/7pcBDHa)

I also started mocking up the Contour dual fans on the new aluminum radiator. Need to figure out brackets and how to mount my overflow bottle.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/06/tWuryiWl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/tWuryiW)

[LERM]

Ahhhh theres a familiar car! (Even though ive never seen it in person) Cool to see you on here PhilypCostco.

[Z06killinSBF]

I dig it man, welcome to Texas!! Let me know if you need anything, I'm sort of local to you.

[Project Bike Truck]

I dig it man, welcome to Texas!! Let me know if you need anything, I'm sort of local to you.

I told him to go scope out your build for me, he’s my buddy from California. I’ve been following your build big time. I am doing some of the same stuff you did.

[frink84]

Ahhhh theres a familiar car! (Even though ive never seen it in person) Cool to see you on here PhilypCostco.

haha it DOES exist


I dig it man, welcome to Texas!! Let me know if you need anything, I'm sort of local to you.

same to you my friend!

[frink84]

made a little progress on the 4th. did some CAD aka cardboard aided design on a radiator shroud. ordered up some aluminum sheet and will be going crazy with that when it shows up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/07/0FoZmXyl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/0FoZmXy)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/07/AJ2mC9Kl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/AJ2mC9K)

[Z06killinSBF]

How is it you have your fans wired? I just went from the motors directly to relays for mine. Mine will just be high speed all the time when on.

[frink84]

I've got a Hollister road badass triple relay setup originally for a Lincoln single fan, but it has low and high-speed options. so I'm using the thermal control built into the contour fans for the low setting, then wiring directly to the two fans for high. Right now the low is wired into a temp probe in the thermostat housing, while the high is on an switch inside the car. once i get the ac working, i plan on wiring high into that, as well as the switch.

[Tincup]

I had bought my wife a brand new 88 LX notch back in 88, I loved it, she hated it, only kept it about a year. Keep up the good work....

[frink84]

Got some shop time in and managed to make the upper and lower brackets for the Contour dual fans and shroud combo. I made them out of sheet aluminum, using a couple of sticks of angle iron to form a crude but effective metal brake to make the bends. A pair of heavy duty tin snips performed cutting duties. Hardware is temporary stuff I had on-hand, will be replacing it all with stainless and nylock nuts to ensure it doesnt get rattled loose. Still need to solve for the overflow mount. Test-fit the entire assembly and everything looks great. I have a good deal of spare aluminum sheet so I am planning on trying to box the radiator a bit to gain even more cooling efficiencies. Can't have enough in Texas!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/07/X5nFTELl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/X5nFTEL)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/07/5wEwn61l-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/5wEwn61)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/07/433Xov7l-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/433Xov7)

[frink84]

got the radiator installed, fans hooked up, cooling system burped. it runs at about 190* on my VDO gauge (sender located in the rear port of the driver's side head) and at about the A of "NORMAL" on the OEM gauge (sender located in the front port of the driver's side head).

also installed new BOSCH o2 sensors as i noticed when doing the starter that the passenger side was a little crusty/ashy. the old driver's side didnt match the passenger at all, and could wiggle a bit. not sure how i had two different o2's in it. car ran decent but not perfect, but then again it's relearning itself pretty hard after new o2's and the new cooling system. we'll see how it does over time.

no pics because i finished late last night. but, everything is blacked out as per my aesthetic.

[frink84]

pictures of the radiator, overflow, and fans
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/08/j6IjPw4l-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/j6IjPw4)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/08/EXbzfYBl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/EXbzfYB)

[andrewb70]

I bought an 89 LX 5.0 new back in 89...lol

Good times.

Andrew

[WallaceMFG]

Looking good so far! I'm thinking after all the suspension work is done on my car I'm going to covert to electric fans as well. I've never had any issues getting hot, but I won't say no to freeing up some power.

[Project Bike Truck]

I dig how you blacked out everything. gives me some ideas for Project Bike Truck.

[frink84]

Swapped my Moroso CAI for a factory airbox that has been insulated (from EscortSportage (https://www.instagram.com/escortsportage/)), and a fresh K&N filter. Been doing some research and for the level of power my car is putting down being a mild H/C/I 302, the factory airbox is the best option. More and cleaner airflow to the MAF is a good thing.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/08/7I98SYZl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/7I98SYZ)https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/08/ns3d2Swl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/ns3d2Sw)https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/08/8pW29ail-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/8pW29ai)

Then I drove it to the Late Model Restoration Cruise-In at the Texas Motorplex Dragway in Ennis this weekend. Just showed, it ain't a drag car or a dyno queen. There were probably 100 foxes, which was neat to see. Not too many unique combos. Probably a dozen turbo cars. Saw some clean pulley brackets that I really liked, but that was about it for inspiration. The Ghost was the only fox sitting on SVE wheels and seemingly the only car set up for corners. Tooting my own horn but makes me smile to have a unique car on a ubiquitous platform. Also met Farm Truck Racing TX (http://instagram.com/farmtruckracingtx) and saw his badass Lightning, really cool truck!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/08/kw4tKNHl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/kw4tKNH)

That road trip was about 100 miles round-trip in >90* heat, and the car ran great. It is noticeably smoother and happier with the factory airbox vs the moroso.

I still have a slight miss above 3k. I checked the plugs, they were all clean and looked good. My theories then move to ignition or fuel. The car is on the factory ignition (I removed the MSD box due to similar issue a while back) but I still have an MSD coil which may not be happy with the factory ignition. There is a high-performance factory coil I will swap in soon that you can pick up cheap (like $15 cheap.. SMP part # FD478T). I also am wary of the classic fox issue, the TFS module, been considering putting a relocation harness to get the TFS out of the heat.

The car also has a 190LPH BBK fuel pump that was installed in the year 2000 so its 18 years old... not sure the service history on those and replacements are relatively cheap... just have to drop the tank! Also I have not verified the date on the fuel filter, I think Cryptic Father swapped it when the car was stored at his house. So I'm looking at probably >3 years old so it should be replaced at the same time.

Lots of paths, but all pretty cheap and easy. Only need the time!

[Z06killinSBF]

I knew I should have gone but I had just gotten back from a week in Colorado and had a few things to catch up on. Car looks tits, we should hit up some autoX events soon.

[Project Bike Truck]

I knew I should have gone but I had just gotten back from a week in Colorado and had a few things to catch up on. Car looks tits, we should hit up some autoX events soon.

I support this message!

[frink84]

I knew I should have gone but I had just gotten back from a week in Colorado and had a few things to catch up on. Car looks tits, we should hit up some autoX events soon.

I'm willing to murder cones!

[frink84]

I've been concerned about the control arm angles for a bit, after learning about the magic of it back when I had an S197 mustang:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/09/LAsvhVOl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/LAsvhVO)

The optimum angles for a MacPherson strut front end are as follows:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/09/4weQZlVl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/4weQZlV)

And the rear lower controls arms for a live axle are as follows:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/09/BCkzB8jl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/BCkzB8j)

The Ghost was sitting at "bad" for both front and rear. I couldn't get a solid picture of the rear control arms.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/09/7P04090l-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/7P04090)

Its on Maximum Motorsport coilovers so I am able to adjust ride height at will. Used an angle finder on my phone as well as a measuring stick to measure from known reference points (k-member, chassis, spindle, and axle bolts) to figure out where it should be. Long story short the car needed to go up about an inch all around. The rear coilovers ended up being the limiting factor, i was able to gain 11/16" on the perch before the adjuster had fully seated the spring at droop. Anything further would mean preloading the springs which is bad. So I may have to bring the front end down a bit just to get the car level. I don't really want to chase different spring lengths at this point.

Also picked up a set of stock water pump and crank pulleys that should help keep the volts closer to 13 at idle. Right now it sits at maaaaybe 12.... not good for EFI! I also figured out why the factory airbox didn't sit right. I had used the bolts from the Moroso intake, while the stock bolts have a rubber isolater. Ordered new ones from LMR. Once that is mounted properly, it looks like I can open up the factory hole in the fender for even more airflow.

[Z06killinSBF]

Looks like you have a 3G alt, what charge cable do you have coming off of it? How are the engine grounds? I put a 6g on mine and a 2ga cable to the relay on the fender.

[frink84]

Looks like you have a 3G alt, what charge cable do you have coming off of it? How are the engine grounds? I put a 6g on mine and a 2ga cable to the relay on the fender.

I've got the PA Performance 4 gauge power wire on the 3g. I haven't checked the engine grounds for a while but they are on the list to replace/update, as my research has shown overkill for grounds works.

[Project Bike Truck]

I vote this suspension issue gets bumped to the top of the list!

[frink84]

I got some time after dinner a few days ago to get some work in on the Ghost. I picked up a set of stock water pump and crank pulleys from a guy on the North Texas Foxbody Club (https://www.facebook.com/groups/NorthTexasFoxbodyClub/).

The background on this is trying to get the car to run cool and reliable. I basically solved that with the new aluminum 3-core radiator, revised fan shroud, and Stewart Components high-flow 180* thermostat. But, being in Texas, I want cooling overkill. Stewart has some excellent tech articles (http://stewartcomponents.com/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=6). One article mentioned water pump speed in relation to crank as well as calculations into actual power gain/loss. I watched an episode of MTOD’s Engine Masters where they proved that heat is much more critical for power generation than parasitic drag. Anyways, long story short, minimum speed for a street-driven car is matching the water pump to crank, up to about 25% over.

For those playing along at home, the stock crank pulley has a diameter of approximately 5 11/16”, underdrive was 4 ¼”. The water pump is 4 ½” stock, 5 ¼” underdrive. Doing the math on the underdrives showed the water pump at 80% crank, while the stock pulleys run it at 126% crank. Close enough. As an added bonus, the existing belt I had for the underdrive pulleys fit with the stock pulleys, though it is at the upper limit of its travel on the tensioner.

As an ancillary detail, I have been noticing the voltage dip after running the car for a while at idle, so in theory going back to a larger crank pulley without changing the alternator pulley will increase idle charge rate as well. I tried checking the voltage after starting it up, but it was at a steady 14.5v with both pulleys. It only seems to dip after a while of driving. Maybe it is grounds or something else. The charge cable and regulator are both new and oversize, so I don’t think they are culprits. More troubleshooting (aka driving the car!) as time permits.

[Z06killinSBF]

I have some spare random pulleys youre welcome to try out

[frink84]

I have some spare random pulleys youre welcome to try out

Thanks man, I'll keep that in mind. In theory, the stock pulleys should have it solved. I have a feeling the pulley on my 3G is a little big but i dont have anything else to compare it to. I need to finalize the alignment then get on some test drives.

[CSG]

IIRC the 93 cobra had a different water pump pulley to spin the pump faster.

[frink84]

When I installed the factory airbox a few posts back, I re-used the upper bolts from the Moroso CAI. The fit was very strange with a gap between the air box mounting flange and the inner fender. While at the LMR Cruise-In, I managed to find a couple of foxes with stock airboxes (everyone drinks the CAI kool aid) and noted that their air boxes mounted with rubber-isolated bolts. So I ordered the air box hardware kit from LMR (https://lmr.com/item/LRS-9686K/1986-93-Mustang-Air-Box-Hardware-Kit).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/09/PE361YYl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/PE361YY)

After installing the lower air box with the new hardware, I noticed that the inner fender hole was smaller than the air box hole, and that the air box did not mount flush with the inner fender. I marked the inner fender and used a Dremel to match the fender to the airbox. The metal here is dual-layer so it took a bit of time and materials. I also used some window sealing foam to make a new gasket to seal the air box to the inner fender.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/09/uT9CBI8l-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/uT9CBI8)

While I had the Dremel out, I also smoothed the inside of the airbox lid, as the transition to the MAF piping had sharp angles and molding flash. Smooth is fast, as Cryptic Father always says.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/09/AnHEdWal-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/AnHEdWa)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/09/nkkZNftl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/nkkZNft)

Next steps. I want to blackout the heat shield material, as the shiny stuff just doesn’t jive with my aesthetic. Also, if you pay attention to the pictures above, you can see the tire through the inner fender opening. I’ve been debating installing a shield to keep the intake a bit cleaner. I haven’t done much real-world testing so I’m not sure if its even necessary, but this may be a “better safe than sorry” thing. I've come up with the following mockup but time will tell if I implement.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/09/K746C65l-1.png (https://imgur.com/K746C65)

[Z06killinSBF]

Instead of a shield, how about a duct?
Or put the inner wheel shield back in

[CSG]

Or put the factory air silencer on it

[Peter Mc Mahon]

I've been concerned about the control arm angles for a bit, after learning about the magic of it back when I had an S197 mustang:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/09/LAsvhVOl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/LAsvhVO)

The optimum angles for a MacPherson strut front end are as follows:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/09/4weQZlVl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/4weQZlV)

And the rear lower controls arms for a live axle are as follows:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/09/BCkzB8jl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/BCkzB8j)

The Ghost was sitting at "bad" for both front and rear. I couldn't get a solid picture of the rear control arms.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/09/7P04090l-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/7P04090)

Its on Maximum Motorsport coilovers so I am able to adjust ride height at will. Used an angle finder on my phone as well as a measuring stick to measure from known reference points (k-member, chassis, spindle, and axle bolts) to figure out where it should be. Long story short the car needed to go up about an inch all around. The rear coilovers ended up being the limiting factor, i was able to gain 11/16" on the perch before the adjuster had fully seated the spring at droop. Anything further would mean preloading the springs which is bad. So I may have to bring the front end down a bit just to get the car level. I don't really want to chase different spring lengths at this point.

Also picked up a set of stock water pump and crank pulleys that should help keep the volts closer to 13 at idle. Right now it sits at maaaaybe 12.... not good for EFI! I also figured out why the factory airbox didn't sit right. I had used the bolts from the Moroso intake, while the stock bolts have a rubber isolater. Ordered new ones from LMR. Once that is mounted properly, it looks like I can open up the factory hole in the fender for even more airflow.
So you don’t have any preload in your rear springs?

[frink84]

Instead of a shield, how about a duct?
Or put the inner wheel shield back in

inner shields rub on the tires as it is. i'm not sure what i would duct it to, as there isnt a good duct spot on the front of the car


Or put the factory air silencer on it

air silencer destorys the airflow advantage of the stock air box


So you don’t have any preload in your rear springs?

basically none. should it?


side note, i was out at my parent's place this past weekend and finally got to review the parts haul. there were some unexpected items included: brake duct backing plates that fit the cobra front brakes on the car so i might figure out some brake ducting up front. new mm/ford clutch cable, adjuster, and quadrant. might swap with my adjustable clutch cable and quad/adjuster to get everything into its best geometry. also rear slotted brake rotors and pads for sn95 cobra which could move up my rear brake redo now that a good portion of the hardware is present (and i hate the tiny rear disc brakes on the car now)

[frink84]

Spent some time playing with tire fitments and re-aligning the car.

Right now the setup is 18x9 et24 245/40/18 front, 18x10 et22 275/40/18 rear. I want a square setup all-around for handling reasons. I test-fit the 18x10 rear wheel/tire up front and it didn't go well. Directly comparing the 18x9 et24 to the 18x10 et22 results in 11mm less inner clearance and the face of the wheel extending 15mm from where the 18x9 sits. This seemed possible on paper but as usual, physical mockup is best.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/nxJTr1Il-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/nxJTr1I)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/spTe59vl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/spTe59v)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/uSdQFZVl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/uSdQFZV)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/LQr4n8yl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/LQr4n8y)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/hOEbhWvl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/hOEbhWv)

So it hits just about everywhere. Especially the front of the fender edge. I'd have to trim the hell out of it and that doesn't really appeal to me. The rear fender edge rubs too, but its minimal and a simple roll of the lip would solve it. But, where I'm most worried is under the fender, where the tire nearly touches the coilover. At any appreciable g-force in a corner, the tire will flex and most likely will rub the coilover. Bad news bears. I also tried exploiting the slotted ears on the bilstein struts which does give much more space BUT severely limits the amount of camber the car runs. Like, back to zero.

I put everything back together and maxed out the camber since I knew it was basically at none. Using my Longacre toe plates and maximum motorsports camber gauge, I ended up with -1.25* camber and 1/32" toe-in. I wanted zero toe for wear but I'll live with such a minimal amount of in since chances are, I'll screw it up and end up with more toe than I want and/or a mis-aligned steering wheel.

I need to have the alignment confirmed at a known good shop. I also re-evaluated the timeline budget for the car and will be putting a quarterhorse at the top of the list to hopefully get the car in a better state of tune. Been spending time on the efituner forums and reading their guides.

[Z06killinSBF]

A 275/35 would fit better but you'll still need to space the wheel out and run flares. Better to step up to a 18x12 315 combo.....

[frink84]

A 275/35 would fit better but you'll still need to space the wheel out and run flares. Better to step up to a 18x12 315 combo.....

yeah based on how i want the car to look, flares are not on the table. a 35-series is probably what i'll end up with based on how tall the 275/40 looked. stock bodylines!

[CSG]

I'm sure you know already but if you get the 91-93 front fender extensions you can modify that fender to match and gain around .5"

[frink84]

I'm sure you know already but if you get the 91-93 front fender extensions you can modify that fender to match and gain around .5"

i was under the impression the entire fender was different 91+, is it really just the extension and the metal underneath?

also, checked codes since it has been occasionally flickering the CEL at me on coast/decel, code 34 egr voltage too low. the car has had a long history with this code, so i probably just need to do a deep cleaning on the valve (or get a quarterhorse tuner and turn it off...)

[CSG]

Best I could tell it is just the extension and the metal under the extension. I painted both type extensions when I sprayed my 87 so I would have both. I looked it over very closely and that is the only difference I could tell.

[WallaceMFG]

Here's a link with some pictures of the different fenders and extensions side by side.

https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/91-93-fender-on-89-mustang.839024/


The fender is different on a 90-93, but in the end the earlier fender could be trimmed to fit the extension and nobody would notice.

[frink84]

Here's a link with some pictures of the different fenders and extensions side by side.

https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/91-93-fender-on-89-mustang.839024/


The fender is different on a 90-93, but in the end the earlier fender could be trimmed to fit the extension and nobody would notice.

Nice, thanks for the details. Might have to source some LX extensions from the local fox parts dude.

[frink84]

Pulled off the EGR based on code 34. It was a bit dirty. I used a hand vacuum pump and an air compressor to manually activate the valve to ensure operation and see if air flowed with the valve closed. It did, which is bad.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/cBw3hhWl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/cBw3hhW)
Researched cleaning methods and found soaking in a carb cleaner is the way to go. Luckily I had some fancy Motorcraft carb cleaner from doing the plugs on an S197 Mustang I used to own.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/2rnPrnOl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/2rnPrnO)
I used a small tool caddy that was sized just right for the EGR valve. For those of you playing along at home, the goal is to avoid soaking the rubber diaphragm and electronics. I repeatedly used the vacuum pump to move the valve through its range. The fluid turned pretty dark.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/C4wKgbvl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/C4wKgbv)https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/5ZLu0Wwl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/5ZLu0Ww)
After soaking for an hour, the valve came out damn clean. I also used some spray carb cleaner to blast the orifice clean. LOTS of black carbon all over the inside. Sparkly clean now, but haven't had a chance for a test drive.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/10/LHytTVHl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/LHytTVH)

[frink84]

Picked up a set of Flowmaster 40's and tailpipes. Yes, the welds are terrible and will be fixed.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/11/6XmesVil-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/6XmesVi)

The reason behind the "new" mufflers is that the MAC catback on the car now will NOT clear the Maximum Motorsports PHB and TA I have sitting at my parent's place. It's a clamp-together setup that has a pair of clamps directly where the PHB mounts. So instead of spending ~$160 for a set of new tailpipes and then spending more money customizing my existing exhaust, I found this set of Flowmaster 40's with tailpipes for $150, a setup that clears the MM stuff by default. I think I'll be able to sell my catback for more than $150 and come out even in the end. I've also been talking with my buddy Danny (https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/128570-Project-Bike-Truck) about how to setup the tailpipes, we're thinking a v-band setup at the rear of the mufflers, so the tail pipes can be removed if need-be, and it would allow me to swap to dumps for #becauseracecar shenanigans.

[samuel642000]

Nice build man, doing something similar with a 90 coupe, just finished with the IRS swap and about to make a donation to the MM gods. I'm over in Royse City if you ever need a hand with anything.

[frink84]

Nice build man, doing something similar with a 90 coupe, just finished with the IRS swap and about to make a donation to the MM gods. I'm over in Royse City if you ever need a hand with anything.

Thanks man. IRS is a hell of a swap! Same to you, if you need a hand just give me a holler.

[frink84]

Ordered a pile o things during Black Friday/Cyber Monday to hopefully solve a few issues with the car. Orered FatFoxx's side-mount TFI relocation harness (http://fatfoxx.com/products.php), an OEM-style coil SMP FD478T to finally get all the MSD off the car (turns out Ford did it better for my application, WHO KNEW?), WIX 33097 fuel filter, Carter P74151HP (which is a OEM 255LPH pump, but the order got cancelled, booo!), and Percy's Exhaust Header Gasket 66014 (been hearing a bit of a leak, and i know the ones on the car are ancient).

Started on the TFI relocation last night and its a LOT of detailed wiring work, but it has been going smoothly. Will post pics next time.

[frink84]

Wrapped up the FatFoxx (http://fatfoxx.com/) TFI Relocation Kit (Part # 423706) last night, as well as removing the MSD coil and replacing with the updated OEM coil. The car fired up on the first try, so thats a good thing. Seems to run better but I have a trailer in front of the shop door so didn't get a chance to pull it out for a test drive.

Deep dive on how this all works: The EFI fox mustangs have a Thick Film Ignition module mounted on the distributor. This unit hates vibration and heat. So Ford put it in a bad spot for both, on the distributor! There were recalls for this back-in-the-day. Fun fact, Ford learned from their mistake with the SN95 5.0 Mustangs (94-95), which had a fender-mounted TFI on a small heatsink from the factory. The FatFoxx kit basically takes the SN95 approach and supersized it with premium wiring and a large heatsink with Arctic Silver thermal paste for superior thermal transfer. The instructions are detailed, clear, and have large color photographs. Everything is included, including heatshrink and crimp connectors. All you provide is the routing path and mounting the heatsink to the car at your chosen location. Note: make that location accesible, as this is where the SPOUT connector is located, used to lock out the ECU when setting timing.

The OEM wiring as follows, there is the main engine loom along the firewall, with a small loomed extension running to the TFI, installed on the distributor at the front of the motor.
Red = Shielded TFI wiring
Blue = Ignition Wiring, unshielded
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/11/nVLtpQ9l-1.png (https://imgur.com/nVLtpQ9)

This is the FatFoxx revised wiring path.
Red = Shielded TFI wiring
Blue = Ignition Wiring, unshielded
Light Blue = Extension of Ignition Wiring, unshielded (included in the FatFoxx kit)
Green = New wiring between TFI and Distributor, with copper drain wire (included in the FatFoxx kit)
Orange = TFI/Headsink combo, heatsink from the FatFoxx kit
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/11/ctItRSBl-1.png (https://imgur.com/ctItRSB)

New distributor wiring
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/11/2u6xNVll-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/2u6xNVl)

Re-wrapped factory harness with new wiring heading down the passenger inner fender, under the porportioning valve
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/11/znVRgoml-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/znVRgom)

Heatsink mounted next to the MAF just behind the OEM airbox
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/11/Hk0JHUJl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/Hk0JHUJ)

Also installed the updated OEM coil (Part # FD478T). Turns out Ford updated the coil in 93 and its perfect for mild builds like mine. Same or better spark than the MSD stuff but falls flat above 6500 rpm. If I was revving above that (I'm not!), then maybe a MSD might be worth it. I'm all for stealth and using off-the-shelf non-fancy parts. This coil also retails for $16, so thats nice.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/11/HMFNufWl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/HMFNufW)

A user on corral was asking about how the MAC Flowpath mufflers sound, so I recorded a clip after the car warmed up.
https://youtu.be/tef2Zd071_4

[Z06killinSBF]

I just ordered that coil, my MSD is getting trashed

[frink84]

I just ordered that coil, my MSD is getting trashed

cant beat the price!

[frink84]

got the new fuel filter in. its been 4 years and only 1,000 miles since the old one! my dad must have swapped it when he was storing the car, as I didnt have it in my records.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/12/NGEkYTVl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/NGEkYTV)

At the same time i pulled the MAC catback exhaust out, as it wont work with the goodies coming in winter (MM PHB/TA combo). Put the flowmaster 40's with no tailpipes on, using some Pypes universal hangers so i could test drive the car.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/12/4n6yV82l-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/4n6yV82)

Its stupidly loud and when cold, resonates with the shop doors. Not good. Test drove it and the stutter is still there, which I kind of expected but still, back to the drawing board. Opinion from the peanut gallery is either fuel or spark. Plugs have less than a year and less than a thousand miles on them, and looked good when I pulled them a few months ago. Ignition system is factory and mostly new. From my understanding, if the plug/wires/cap/rotor is good; then the rest of the ignition system typically fails in a go/no go manner. THe car starts just fine so I dont think that's it. The other thing to me would be fuel. The pump is a 18 year old BBK 190LPH and the fuel injectors are equally old FMS 24lbs. I think maybe a tank of seafoam, then drop the tank and go after the pump if that doesn't fix it. Of course, theres always going with a Quarterhorse and being able to datalog (and turn off everything I don't need....)

[Z06killinSBF]

What stutter does it have

[frink84]

What stutter does it have

noticeable roughly above 3k rpm when applying throttle, basically feels like it loses power for a moment, over and over. no pinging or anything like that. steady state cruise is fine. idles fine. revving without load is fine.

[samuel642000]

noticeable roughly above 3k rpm when applying throttle, basically feels like it loses power for a moment, over and over. no pinging or anything like that. steady state cruise is fine. idles fine. revving without load is fine.

Sounds eerily similar to mine, ended up being head gasket failure.

[frink84]

Sounds eerily similar to mine, ended up being head gasket failure.

oh damn. how did you discover it was the head gasket after all?

[samuel642000]

oh damn. how did you discover it was the head gasket after all?

Just a guess... Trying to decide what route to go, leaning towards ls swap since I'll want to refresh the 5.0 at this point. Makes more since to go ahead and swap.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/12/Screenshot_20181214111501_zpsiao1affi-1.png (http://s760.photobucket.com/user/samuel64200/media/Screenshot_20181214-111501_zpsiao1affi.png.html)

[frink84]

Just a guess... Trying to decide what route to go, leaning towards ls swap since I'll want to refresh the 5.0 at this point. Makes more since to go ahead and swap.

hah yeah thats, uh a hell of a sign there. you'll get no hate on a LS swap here, engine swaps are what hot rodding was built on. engine loyalty was built by the oems in the 60's.

[Sbeck09]

Sorry about the bum motor. I'm wondering if I should have LS swapped from my 351w. I've got a boatload of money in that build and the LS has waaaayyyy stronger mains anyway. Screw the brand loyalty. Cheap(ish), reliable, and V8 is all that matters. Plus you'll be saving weight so there is that.

[samuel642000]

hah yeah thats, uh a hell of a sign there. you'll get no hate on a LS swap here, engine swaps are what hot rodding was built on. engine loyalty was built by the oems in the 60's.

Lol yeah, I have zero brand loyalty as long as its the best bang for the buck and I like it, all is fair. I'll probably throw gaskets in it and drive it while I collect parts for the swap.


Sorry about the bum motor. I'm wondering if I should have LS swapped from my 351w. I've got a boatload of money in that build and the LS has waaaayyyy stronger mains anyway. Screw the brand loyalty. Cheap(ish), reliable, and V8 is all that matters. Plus you'll be saving weight so there is that.

Exactly, on the cheapish and reliable side, weight savings will occur if an aluminium block is used, but if going with the iron block, not a lot of savings to be had.

[Rolling_Thunder]

chocolate milkshake of death ---

[frink84]

finally got my haul of parts from my parent's house over the holiday break. the parts consist of a MM Panhard bar, MM standard duty torque arm, MM Clutch Cable/Quadrant/Firewall Adjuster Package, and a pair of Stoptech slotted brake rotors for a SN95 cobra rear brake setup.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/01/v1rXyWrl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/v1rXyWr)

I also have a pile of other unused SN95/Fox suspension parts that came in the haul that I'm not using. Selling these gives the Ghost more funding! (PM me if interested: Hawk HPS rear pads for sn95 cobra, MM steering shaft for 94-04, MM torque arm springs with isolators, and a MM SS front hose kit for SN95)

[Project Bike Truck]

finally got my haul of parts from my parent's house over the holiday break. the parts consist of a MM Panhard bar, MM standard duty torque arm, MM Clutch Cable/Quadrant/Firewall Adjuster Package, and a pair of Stoptech slotted brake rotors for a SN95 cobra rear brake setup.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/01/v1rXyWrl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/v1rXyWr)

I also have a pile of other unused SN95/Fox suspension parts that came in the haul that I'm not using. Selling these gives the Ghost more funding! (PM me if interested: Hawk HPS rear pads for sn95 cobra, MM steering shaft for 94-04, MM torque arm springs with isolators, and a MM SS front hose kit for SN95)

This puts a big grin on my face! I can not wait for install day.

[WallaceMFG]

Agreed, nice haul! Makes me jealous haha

[frink84]

Started installing the PHB. Got stuck at the axle mount. The Maximum Motorsports provided bolt was too short. It measured at 100mm, the instructions listed 112mm, and the current instructions on the website listed 117mm. I exchanged some emails with Jack Hidley over at Maximum Motorsports, who let me know that the bolt did change in 2010 so my PHB was old. We then checked the axle mount, which was current. All these parts were NIB, so I dunno what went on there. Long story short: MM is awesome and is shipping a new axle mount bolt to me, free of charge.

The OEM and current MM bolt next to eachother. I could technically use the OEM bolt for mock-up, but felt that having the threads in the RCA bushing would be a bad thing, so I'm waiting for the new bolt.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/01/oslAHael-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/oslAHae)

I also verified that there were no updates to the torque arm for me to worry about.

In addition to all that, sold a grip of parts I wasn't going to use, so I bought a Moates Quarterhorse and an Innovate wideband o2 sensor. Gonna get all nerdy on this thing.

[frink84]

Put in a few hours on the Ghost over the weekend.

Got about 80% done with the PHB installation. I must say, MM's instructions and tech support are killer. Multiple responses on a Saturday, unheard of. The longer bolt showed up, then I had to find a 1/2" and 5/8" drill bit to drill holes in the subframe. Then I had to go back to the store to buy a drill with a big enough chuck for the 5/8" drill bit. Fun times and new tools! No pics, but I'm on the home stretch, which requires re-installing the coilovers, settling the suspension, then setting the car back on jack stands at ride height to install the bar level and adjust to get the rear centered.

Because I was waiting on the bolt and other parts showed up, I dove into the Innovate Motorsports 3918 MTX-L Plus Wideband Gauge install. I had installed a trio of VDO gauges (water temp, oil pressure, voltage) below the radio over 10 years ago. I figured I could pop the voltmeter out, install the wideband, hook up power, and go. No dice. Pulled the radio/gauge surround and realized I did **** sloppy 10 years ago. Badly soldered wires with electrical tape instead of heat shrink, sketchy grounds, hard wired... ugh. So I pulled EVERYTHING, including the wiring to the sensors, and built it right, with good wire length, stress relief, crimped and heat shrunk connections, the works! Innovate recomments a relay for gauge power so I did that for all the gauges, and added a weatherpack connector (ordered a $28 crimper kit off Amazon that worked fabulously) for servicability.

Ended up with this:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/01/Oqn3623l-1.jpg?1 (https://imgur.com/Oqn3623)

All gauges worked great and the car idles at flat 13 AFR. Woohoo.

Also been playing around with TunerPro RT in preparation for the Moates Quarterhorse installation. I'm using the A9L2 from http://www.efidynotuning.com/ as a base and I think I have a handle on it. Curious how my first startup will go with that.

[frink84]

guess it didnt like my image

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/01/Oqn3623l-1.jpg?1 (https://imgur.com/Oqn3623)

[Z06killinSBF]

Step bit next time, they work amazing.

[frink84]

Step bit next time, they work amazing.

I've used step bits before, however when drilling the pilot holes I found that the frame was double-thick in a few spots. Didn't want to make huge holes. I needed a powerful corded drill anyways (at least thats what I told the wife...)

[LERM]

Pretty jealous of that MM stuff your car is getting. When are we racing these things?

[Project Bike Truck]

Pretty jealous of that MM stuff your car is getting. When are we racing these things?

When we can convince our better half's to move to Texas!

[frink84]

Pretty jealous of that MM stuff your car is getting. When are we racing these things?


When we can convince our better half's to move to Texas!

what Danny said hahaha.


Anyways, got some time in last night. After a lot of debate and measuring, I'm just converting the existing MAC exhaust to dumps. I really like the sound from that system, its well past being paid for (bought over 10 years ago...) and I'd likely spend more on building a new exhaust vs using what I have. So I pulled out the Flowmaster 40's and spent some time with the cutoff wheel to create the following:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/01/uMzR2uCl-1.jpg?1

Got it under the car and the turn downs hit the axle. Strange. Pulled those off and got the mufflers into place. Looks like the MAC stuff puts the mufflers way far back in the muffler pocket. The double-edged sword of the MAC system is that its multi-piece with a bunch of ball and socket connectors for maximum adjustability. But that hurts fitment. You can see that there is a good 6-8" of room in front of the muffler to move it up. Also, the driver side muffler's tailpipe started turning up RIGHT at the weld so it looks a little weird at the moment.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/01/id9GdpAl-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/01/NIRJzg8l-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/01/41RX6kTl-1.jpg

Once the car is back on the ground and I finalize the PHB, I'll start on the torque arm. Then with all that done (hoping that the exhaust doesn't cause any issues with that installation), I will take it to an exhaust shop. I'm thinking delete the ball & socket ahead of the mufflers, move the mufflers towards the front of the car and get them tucked up nice and tight, and put turn-down tips on them.

I started the car as-is with the shop closed, and it was louder than before (but then again I've never started the car with the doors closed before) but it is MUCH more liveable than the Flowmasters.

[frink84]

I finalized the PHB install last night. The bar was level by default and the axle measures out to within 1/16" centered to the chassis. thats an important metric for the coming torque arm install, so I was happy that I didn't have to tweak anything. THeres something to be said for a car that you know the entire history of!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/01/0Ut66e1l-1.jpg

I drove it around the block to settle the suspension before installing the PHB (per instructions), and got to watch the wideband reacting to how the car was running. While it was stumbling at >3000rpm, the AFR is sitting in the 14.5-15 range. Then the car basically catches itself, AFR drops in the 11.5-12 range, and it takes off. Repeat. I don't exactly know what it means, but to me that means fueling issue. I'm going to resistance-test the injectors when I get some time, and order the 255lph pump to install while I have the car back in the air for the torque arm. For data's sake, idle is around 13, while cruise is 14 or so.

[frink84]

New fuel pump showed up early, so I got all kinds of excited and dropped the tank
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/01/KdsSLH2l-1.jpg
Installed the new pump into the hanger but the strainer wouldn't stay on.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/01/VAmWk7vl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/VAmWk7v)
I contacted customer service after going crazy with the calipers
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/01/h8XMfNOl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/h8XMfNO)
Turns out its missing the little metal doohickey, should look like this
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/01/H8M9iM3l-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/H8M9iM3)

Now I'm working with Carter technical support to get a new one sent out. Seems to be my luck of the draw with this thing...

[frink84]

So I got the new fuel pump installed. After a LOT of back and forth, Carter's product manager of fuel systems sent me a new strainer.

Old pump and debris that came out of the pump/strainer
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/01/AgokzHgl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/AgokzHg)

Collection of strainers, old on top, good one on the bottom
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/01/5Gul5KEl-1.jpg?1 (https://imgur.com/5Gul5KE)

The new pump is shockingly quieter than the old one. Like, had to listen for it priming, and even checked the fuel pressure at the rail to ensure it was running. The car started on the first try.

I drove it around a bit and it.... still acts funny. I videod the AFR while going through the gears. It basically leans through first then figured itself out and adds fuel for the rest of the gears. This is only when getting on it, otherwise it always leans out.
https://youtu.be/m5OnYB6h2Gw
https://youtu.be/0VhjUZKpgcU

I think at this point its time to pay attention to the engine side of the fuel system, aka testing the injectors and paying attention to the regulator bleed down after shut-down.

[frink84]

I may have had a major breakthrough last night. Started pulling the upper intake manifold to go after the injectors for some resistance testing, and noticed the TPS sensor looked a little... iffy. The ground is nearly pulled completely out of the sensor! I ordered a new one from Rockauto and it shipped from within Texas so it should be here shortly. Really excited that this may be the magic bullet.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/01/iDQ7Xfdl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/iDQ7Xfd)

[andrewb70]

The TPS certainly looks suspect. Hopefully a new one fixes your issues!

Andrew

[CSG]

TPS normally pulls a code if it is acting up in my experience.

[Z06killinSBF]

Do you have direct manifold vacuum to the FPR? Also check the O2 sensor harness for breaks or tears. Another thing the look at is the ECT sensor that tells the computer what the engine temp is

[frink84]

Do you have direct manifold vacuum to the FPR?
Yup, and it levels at 40 when disconnected.

Also check the O2 sensor harness for breaks or tears.
Will do. Harness looked good when I installed new O2's last summer but I havent inspected the whole thing.

Another thing the look at is the ECT sensor that tells the computer what the engine temp is
That's a good one. Haven't looked at that in a long time.

[Z06killinSBF]

There is a chart out there that tells you the ranges to tell if your sensors are good, let me see if I have it and I'll text it to you.

[frink84]

There is a chart out there that tells you the ranges to tell if your sensors are good, let me see if I have it and I'll text it to you.

got it, thanks man. for reference, heres the sites

http://veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/
https://foxstang.com/complete-efi-sensors-fox-mustang-eec/

[frink84]

I installed the new TPS, set it at .95v idle, swept to WOT clean, and showed 4.6v so greater than 3v. So the computer is seeing WOT. Miss is STILL THERE.

Tested all injectors, all showed right around 15-15.1 ohms.
Tested maf power,ground, resistance. all good.
Tested iac, resistance and voltage good.
Cleaned IAT because I misread Z06killinSBF's post about the ECT :hand:

havent crawled underneath it to test the o2's. they are both fairly new but still worth testing.

installed the quarterhorse with a stock a9l tune and it started. mainly did this so i'd be able to datalog to help figure out the stuff from above.

Mister projectbiketruck (https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/128570-Project-Bike-Truck) sent me this post (https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/128375-quot-Mess-to-Modern-quot-A-67-Cougar-Project/page6?p=1268749#post1268749) which showed some interesting injector troubleshooting. My dad also suggested physically testing the injectors so I guess i'm gonna try that. I'll also verify 12v/ground at the harness, I didn't do that while I was resistance testing the injectors because I was SO CERTAIN that I was gonna find a dead one via resistance. Hindsight is 20/20). :hammer:

Here are the details from that post:

Electrically, everything checked out. +12v on one pin, other pin had continuity all the way to the ecm. Impedance between the pins was 14.8 or 15.8 (can't remember) but it was the same as two other injectors. A fully clogged injector seemed unlikely since the entire fuel system is new and I had previously overhauled and tested each injector but I couldn't rule it out. I pulled the injector and connected it to a 9v battery. I could hear and feel the solenoid clicking. I rigged up a bicycle pump and rubber tubing to verify the injector was opening. At 30 psi, I triggered the solenoid and ... nothing. After fooling around with it, eventually the blockage cleared and it would spray a perfect pattern of carb cleaner.

After reassemby, the miss is gone.

[frink84]

TL;DR: I AM A MORON.

This weekend I tested the injectors. All clicked with 9v applied, the connectors all had clean 12v and ground, and each plug spits fuel when voltage is applied. So the injectors look good. I also got a closer look at the bottom of the regulator, and the rebuild kit Kirban sells will not work with a regulator as old as mine, so good thing I didnt take it apart!

Then I started walking through the Initial Tune Instructions from https://www.efidynotuning.com/ini.htm as I am building out an A9L2 tune for the car to datalog. One of those steps is verify base timing is 10* BTDC. So with the car warm, I check and my heart stops. It was at 10* ATDC. I last reset the timing over a year ago and I remember it being weird and moving around alot then, but didn't pay attention to it. The spade was disconnected and the car was warm then, so who knows what was going on, but this was clearly the culprit.

I quickly set the car back to 10* BTDC, then reset the idle and TPS since timing changed. Drove it around the block (relatively gingerly as it was raining all weekend, naturally), and the car ran AMAZING. I'm beside myself with internalized rage and happiness all at the same time. I haven't taken it for longer than a 5 minute drive as the weather has been ****, but the car spins the tires and lights the fires, so when it dries out I'm gonna take a longer drive with it to see how it acts.

[frink84]

Been driving the car here and there, appears all good and runs as good as I can remember it ever running. So, when something runs good what do you do? Thats right, abuse it. Registered for the local auto-x this coming weekend, Equipe Rapide Challenge Cup #1: https://www.facebook.com/events/308073486726981/. Gotta update the magnetic numbers I had on my S197 to reflect CAM-T instead of C, and cut up the panel to fit on the fox.

previously, on the s197:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/09/LAsvhVOl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/LAsvhVO)

the dude who did the magnets also included separate number + class, so I'll only be butchering one panel and keeping one complete for keepsakes.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/02/5YxogXrl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/5YxogXr)

[Project Bike Truck]

You add the Torque Arm and Really beat on the Ghost.

[frink84]

got the vinyl updated with the help of the wifey and her Cameo Silhouette machine. Removed the old "C" and replaced it with a new "T". The magnets cut with basic scissors which was a nice surprise.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/02/H8xG2Pjl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/H8xG2Pj)

[frink84]

Had a great time at the Equipe Rapide autocross. Ran in CAM-T as a Novice. The five other cars in the class were all modified 67-69 Camaros. Puttng my times in with the rest of the CAM-T novices and the one CAM-T participant, I placed second. Not bad. The car performed very well. Stayed cool and didnt miss a beat the entire time. It needs grip more than anything else, but I knew that going in with the Hankook Ventus V12 Evo 280TW tires from 2012.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/02/isQ8qXJl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/isQ8qXJ)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/02/GBrMrl8l-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/GBrMrl8)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/02/PNrHchkl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/PNrHchk)


https://youtu.be/k0DuflO4Ld8

[Z06killinSBF]

I think Icemanard hangs with those Camaro folks

[frink84]

I think Icemanard hangs with those Camaro folks

yup he was there, i talked with him a bit. he beat me to first place by about 2 seconds flat with a 35.257 to my 37.248.

[WallaceMFG]

Looks fun! I've been itching to get my car out since I got it driving.

What are you using to record and show telemetry? I like how the overlay looks.

[frink84]

Looks fun! I've been itching to get my car out since I got it driving.

What are you using to record and show telemetry? I like how the overlay looks.

Its a Garmin VIRB Elite that i bought back in 2016. Its out of production, but here is the product page: https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/119594/pn/010-01088-15. It has a ton of overlay options and uses its own built-in GPS, accelerometer, and whatnot. Builds the track map from its own data. I really like it.

[frink84]

A good buddy of mine (instagram.com/e4drht (https://www.instagram.com/e4drht/)) started making headlight relay harnesses for Fox-platform vehicles. I had him wire up one for the Ghost. His setups use OEM-style connectors and you merely have to connect positive to the battery, negative to ground, find a place for the relays, and plug it all in. Everything is loomed and made from high-quality wiring. I get no kickback, I'm just impressed with his work.

The kit showed up in a nice plastic bag all ready to go:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/03/UXBpiKbl-1.jpg?1 (https://imgur.com/UXBpiKb)

I hooked it up last night, making sure to take some before and after low beam pictures. I mounted the relays on the opposite side of the driver inner fender, basically behind the battery between the horns and the washer bottle. Then the wiring snakes around to the headlights, and one wire hookup to the battery (well, my distribution box, but close enough). The results are pretty surprising.

Low before:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/03/m80Qboml-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/m80Qbom)

Low after:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/03/IDRtyH0l-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/IDRtyH0)

Will probably be taking the car out tonight for a car meet, so we'll see how big a difference it is on the road.

[frink84]

new headlight harness really brightened up the night-time driving. high beams are epic.

i also took the bind out of the front sway bar. did it by spacing out the mount from the frame with a washer on either side. all sway bars should rotate with pinky force when unbolted from the control arms. if they don't, modify or adjust the mounts to prevent that bind. the front of the car feels a lot lighter and more feedback than before.

new rear tires showed up. scored 15% off tire rack's ebay price (slightly cheaper than the site). Falken Azenis RT615K+ 275/35/18. the little dude approves.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/03/6fSa3osl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/6fSa3os)

[WallaceMFG]

Lights look great when put on relays. Makes you wonder why it took the OEMs so long to do it from the factory lol.

Nice score on the tires!

[frink84]

Haven't done much to the Ghost except drive the damn thing. Been a bit too busy and a bit too hot.

Picked up a cool keychain from Stangfreak87 (https://www.etsy.com/shop/Stangfreak87?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=702314157) that basically matches the car.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/2iZmOkYl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/2iZmOkY)

Got caught in a brief rainstorm coming back from the local weekly carshow, so now the car is technically clean for this weekend, Late Model Restoration is having a cruise-in at the drag strip in Ennis, TX.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/P4nNPtyl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/P4nNPty)

Mister Project Bike Truck (https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/128570-Project-Bike-Truck) has been harassing me to put in the hot tune with all the boring stuff turned off, but I lack the motivation due to the shop being hot as heck all the time. One of these days though...

[Project Bike Truck]

Damn straight let’s get this thing Tuned.

[Z06killinSBF]

It's not THAT hot, it can't be more than 114!

Good meeting you at LMR, we'll have to chill more next time.

[frink84]

Haven't been doing terribly a lot of with the car lately. It started idling funny and not wanting to hot restart. Tested the IAC and it failed resistance. Cryptic Father tested his spares and sent me two known good ones. I installed one of them and pulled the battery to reset idle. Didn't go through the rest of the typical fox factory idle reset. But my boy Chandler likes to play in "daddy's racecar" and talked me into starting it up. We then put his carseat in the back and took him for a ride. Car ran great, he thinks burnouts are amazing, and it even hot-restarted in a drive-through (had to shut it down to order, lol). So occasionally during this whole coronavirus thing we take it out to get some fresh air. He has a blast!

174486

[frink84]

Been working on small projects on the Ghost while I have some mandated stay at home time.

Hooked up the Innovate MTX-L Plus wideband to the now-unused EGR signal, meaning I can log the wideband in the tune. It runs decent but could use some AFR adjustments from what I've seen, so I'm excited to dive into that.

Also picked up a headlight/fog light switch from a buddy. My fox is an LX which means no fogs, but the wiring appears to be present both behind the dash and under the hood, so I have a switched 12v lead under the hood. Thinking about using it as an override for the fan or something like that.

[raustinss]

But does your ashtray stay closed and what about that interior light does it stay up? Lol

[RMMiller]

he thinks burnouts are amazing

Sounds like my nephew, he loves burnouts! He knows which cars my brothers has that will do them and which can't and he hates riding in the turds that can't turn a tire. Great qualities for a three year old!

[frink84]

But does your ashtray stay closed and what about that interior light does it stay up? Lol

Hah I was so proud of my ashtray door! It broke as soon as I brought the car to Texas, I blame the humidity. I used one of the many fix-it kits out there to restore functionality.

The interior map light does work and stays up in its clip!

[frink84]

Got tired of staring at the MM MMCP-51 Clutch Cable, Quadrant, and Firewall Adjuster setup I had sitting on a shelf in the shop. Tore out the old aftermarket setup (Pacifica Performance I believe), and really hated what I had discovered younger me had done. The spacers to align the quadrant were a mishmash of hardware - including a hose washer! What the heck! Anyways, the new setup is in, no pictures because nothing is easy to photograph when installed. But I drove it today and the pedal effort is night-and-day in the best way. Light feel but great modulation. I consider it a must-do modification now.

Heres a shot of the old setup, you can see the very random washer assortment and the damage to the quadrant and firewall adjuster from that.
177189

[frink84]

Long time no post. Since my last update, we moved to the Prescott area of Arizona and have been loving it. I'm happy to be back in a place with excellent driving roads. Took the Ghost and my son Chandler for a 2-hour drive down Irons Springs Road through Skull Valley, then headed back up the mountain on 89 to Prescott. Fantastic curvy roads and the car and kid did great! Definitelly need to get the AC fixed as he doesn't like the windows being down.

183646183647

[c91x]

My Fairlane has manual steering and the 89 heading back into Prescott gives me quite the workout.

What are the future plans for the mustang?

[frink84]

My Fairlane has manual steering and the 89 heading back into Prescott gives me quite the workout.

What are the future plans for the mustang?


I couldn't imagine doing 89 with manual steering, what a workout!

Near future plans are tires and working AC. I suppose I could work on paint and a non-cracked windshield, but it just works so I just want to drive it.

I have a torque arm setup sitting in the garage, and the exhaust needs to be redone for clearance for that, so those are the big items on the list.

[WallaceMFG]

Glad to see you're still out and about, and welcome to AZ! There's some pretty good roads up in the northern parts of the state, and getting out of the heat in the summer is a bonus.

Keep enjoying the car, I get jealous of seeing everybody else's cars out and about with mine torn apart all the time lol.

[frink84]

Long time no update, because there haven't been any updates. Was checking the date codes on the tires on my new project truck (https://www.overlandbound.com/forums/threads/golden-eagle-2005-ford-excursion-4x4-v1), and figured why not check the Mustang? Yeah, late 2012, meaning the tires are almost 9 years old now. Ooops. So the car has been sidelined until I can get new meats.

[frink84]

Closing out this thread, I installed a new battery and windshield, then sold the car in July of '23. New project is still foxy though...

[vince72]

Very cool project!