PDA

View Full Version : How much welder do I need?



Damn True
12-03-2005, 11:44 AM
Looking into buying a MIG. The biggest thing I see myself welding is the subframe on my '68 Camaro and a DSE minitub. I will trust the cage to an expert.

How big of a machine would I need to get this sort of thing done?

Matt@RFR
12-03-2005, 12:44 PM
Your question has been answered several times...do a search.

boodlefoof
12-03-2005, 05:06 PM
I went with a Millermatic 175. No regrets. Infinite voltage adjustability and a 230v input is a beautiful thing.

basketcase
12-03-2005, 10:21 PM
Miller 175 here as well. Sometimes I wonder if I shouldn't have gone with the 210 or something of the sorts, but I don't see myself ever needing anything like that.

GBodyGMachine
12-04-2005, 06:33 AM
I will say this, after you weld those few things you will want to do more. I always over buy.

Jeff

David Pozzi
12-08-2005, 10:56 PM
A good welder will last you a long time. It's a good thing to overbuy capacity since later on you'll find thicker metal to weld, if not for you, then a friend.
Consider duty cycle, since if you get into a big project, you want enough capacity to weld at least 5 minutes out of every 10.

trapin
12-18-2005, 06:50 PM
I have a Miller 135 and I absolutely love it. It depends on what you're going to do with it. A lot of people tell you that you should step up to bigger machines to do frame work but Kyle Tucker at DS&E personally told me that he uses a Miller 135 on a lot of his projects (and no I'm not making that up). I'm using mine for sheetmetal and subframe stuff. It'll handle thicker wire and metal if need be, but not in a commercial situation. If your going to Mig welding thick metal for many years to come than it is advised you step up to the 220 machines as they can handle a heavier work load. But the regular amp machines will do just fine for many applications.

The greatest tool I've ever purchased. It just doesn't get any better than having a welder out in the garage.

Matt@RFR
12-18-2005, 08:32 PM
I have a Miller 135 and I absolutely love it. It depends on what you're going to do with it. A lot of people tell you that you should step up to bigger machines to do frame work but Kyle Tucker at DS&E personally told me that he uses a Miller 135 on a lot of his projects (and no I'm not making that up). I'm using mine for sheetmetal and subframe stuff. It'll handle thicker wire and metal if need be, but not in a commercial situation. If your going to Mig welding thick metal for many years to come than it is advised you step up to the 220 machines as they can handle a heavier work load. But the regular amp machines will do just fine for many applications.

The greatest tool I've ever purchased. It just doesn't get any better than having a welder out in the garage.

You're speaking as if there is a grey area concerning machine choice. There isn't. If you know you'll be welding 1/4 to 1/4 mild steel plate only once in your life, and you absolutely must do it with your own machine, then a 135 will NOT produce a structurally sound weld, period.

Yes, 135's are fine for stock frame work, if you don't mind a 20% duty cycle.

Damn True
12-19-2005, 03:54 PM
Explain 20% duty cycle to me.

Am I correct in assuming that means that I can only use it for 2 out of every 10 min?

Matt@RFR
12-19-2005, 04:34 PM
That's exactly it. Duty cycle is rated at the rated output of the machine, which isn't necessarily the max output of the machine. In other words, on the lowest setting, most any welder will have 100% duty cycle.

Keep in mind that it's rare to have 10 consecutive minutes of arc time. Stopping, repositioning, and starting again take more time that you probably think.

Flight396
12-19-2005, 06:28 PM
I as well looked into bigger machines after owning a Craftsman 110v 90amp model which didn't do a thing for me. I now own a Millermatic 175 I got brand new off EBay for a great price. I've done alot to my car (floor pans, frame work, misc sheetmetal work) and it's been a dream. Goodluck!

Matt@RFR
12-19-2005, 08:34 PM
In other words, on the lowest setting, most any welder will have 100% duty cycle.

Craftsman 110v 90amp model
Except for that one. :)

If a name brand that can be associated with anything other than welding/plasma machines has their name on a little MIG, don't buy it. (Chicago Electric, Craftsman, etc.) They're a ton cheaper, until you figure in the swear jar. Supah Junk.

And another thing. For the guys who say you should only get what you need, I have this to say: My 300 amp Miller 251 will outweld any 135 on 20ga. The bigger machines are just better. If you want 'better', go big.

Modo Innovations
12-19-2005, 08:58 PM
I have a Miller 135 as well. It has done almost everthing I have needed it to do. I wish I would have stepped up to the 175 though.

It is kind of like horsepower...Can you ever have to much?

Luckily my neighbor has a Hobart 180 that I can roll over and use when I need it. It is in my shop right now. Yeah, I should have stepped up to the Miller 175.

I also want a TIG.

Camaro Zach
12-19-2005, 10:21 PM
Except for that one. :)

If a name brand that can be associated with anything other than welding/plasma machines has their name on a little MIG, don't buy it. (Chicago Electric, Craftsman, etc.) They're a ton cheaper, until you figure in the swear jar. Supah Junk.

And another thing. For the guys who say you should only get what you need, I have this to say: My 300 amp Miller 251 will outweld any 135 on 20ga. The bigger machines are just better. If you want 'better', go big.
I agree. My 251 will outweld my 110v Lincoln any day even on the thinnest of metals.

JamesD
12-22-2005, 11:11 PM
I did my dse subframes and misc. body work(quarters, patches) with a miller 135. Really easy to work with. I got mine from ramweldingsupply.com, but you can probably find it cheaper on ebay. Also if you want a larger machine but don't have the budget, look into a used set up, i've seen some great deals on used miller/lincoln setups in the classifieds/ebay. thats the route i'm going for my tig setup.

Todds69
12-23-2005, 08:26 AM
I spoke with a local welding facility and he told me Miller is a good brand but thinks Lincoln is better at this time. He says Miller has some quality issues right now and they're working to figure them out. Doesn't mean in 6 months they wont be good. Just his 2 cents and me telling it.

David Pozzi
12-25-2005, 09:07 PM
I've had several Miller machines, they have been great, and generally had a higher duty cycle. I tend to stay away from the computerized stuff. I have a Miller 250 that has just two knobs, one for Volts, the other for wire speed. I added a controller card for a Spool gun so I can weld aluminum sprinkler pipe for our farm.

Flight396
12-25-2005, 09:59 PM
I know my Craftsman 110v 90amp enjoyed that cheap shot you took at it Matt! :lmao:

trapin
12-28-2005, 06:07 PM
You're speaking as if there is a grey area concerning machine choice. There isn't. If you know you'll be welding 1/4 to 1/4 mild steel plate only once in your life, and you absolutely must do it with your own machine, then a 135 will NOT produce a structurally sound weld, period.

Yes, 135's are fine for stock frame work, if you don't mind a 20% duty cycle.
Matt...he never asked about 1/4 to 1/4. Just frame work and sheet metal. For that, the 135 is fine.

1/4 inch steel is a different story. I never meant to allude that the 135 could handle that. If I did I apologize, because you're right....it won't.

David Pozzi
01-05-2006, 09:41 PM
It doesn't take much of a machine to do body welding. But once you have a welder and learn how to use it, there will be other projects you can do if you have enough power. Maybe you want to make a welding table, engine stand, build an engine dolly or body jig. Maybe you want to modify or repair one of the above.

Something around 175 would be a really good size. If you just don't have the money to invest, that's one thing, but if you think you will ever want to weld heavier metal, get a bigger one to start with.

BTW, there are tricks to get by with a smaller welder in an emergency, pre-heat the parts to be welded with a torch, then weld it without stopping or stop only a short time. I welded heavily chamfered 1" thick X 3" wide steel ripper shanks together with a Miller 135 amp mig and the welds held! It took pre-heat and non-stop welding to do it. this welder also had a terriffic duty cycle so I didn't have to stop and let it cool or have it shut-down automatically in mid-weld.

True, If you bought a little larger machine, and wanted something structural welded on your car, you could get someone with more welding experience to stop by and weld it for you right there.