tubular control arms with coil overs

[Titan1021]

It’s time for me to get new front suspension parts. I have a 1968 camaro with a Ls2/t56 swap. This build is somewhat of a budget build. Need your guys opinion on control arm setup. I want some of your guys opinion on who makes the best control arm package for the money. The companies that I’m looking at right now are QA1, Ridetech, Global, Hotchkis, or any other company that offers a bolt in kit. I also want your guys opinion on this package from Jegs I’ll leave the link below. This car is mainly a street car but I do want to have the right part so that if and when I go to the track the car will be able to compete. Thanks



http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/64552K/10002/-1

[stab6902]

Those tubular control arms appear to be the Chinese made ones that are available considerably cheaper (around $260 for the whole set) from other sources (eBay and Amazon for example): https://www.ebay.com/itm/TUBE-TUBULAR-CONTROL-ARMS-UPPER-LOWER-67-69-CAMARO-FIREBIRD-68-74-NOVA/172791906464?fits=Year%3A1969%7CModel%3ACamaro&hash=item283b3340a0:g:3O0AAOSwDRxZp6f~&vxp=mtr

From what I've read, you'll want to replace the ball joints, but otherwise they're an ok cost effective option. For some reason Jegs and some other sellers mark them up quite a bit - maybe they are somehow improved, but they appear identical and have the same description.

If you bought the A-arms from eBay ($260) and the coil-overs from Jegs ($630) you'd save $270. Also, most people suggest the 550 lb/in spring rate for those coil-overs.

[Titan1021]

Thanks Stab that’s what I thought Chinese made.

[Typhoon1015]

paging rodney...... Suspension geek has tried tons of combos on 1st gens and can get you setup with something for your budget. He also is a dealer for some of the manufacturers.

[Rod]

paging rodney...... Suspension geek has tried tons of combos on 1st gens and can get you setup with something for your budget. He also is a dealer for some of the manufacturers.

HEY! thanks Justin

Stab6902 is correct on the arms, those are the basic import arms, the company that imports them is in Sothern California, if you use them PLEASE replace ALL 4 ball joints, I cant recommended them in good faith, I tested those for 2 months, 8 events, during that time and the ball joints became so loose in just 4 events the car wandered and bump steered all over the road, after I changed them the arms felt fine for the next 4 events but I was worried if the balljoints were that cheap that I wasn't going to bet on the steel and welds to be any better

I can save you some on the coil over, I would put you in a Viking warrior Hybrid here is a link to them (SHOCKS) (https://suspensiongeek.com/products/viking-67-69-camaro-billet-double-adjust-coil-over-shock-conversion)

If you don't use those import arms, I do recommend the Ridetech(I'm a dealer) the Hotchkis (I'm a new dealer not even on my web site yet) and the Global west (sorry not a dealer for them), we can talk about your project goals and what's best for you to achieve your goal

here are the Import arms, a ridetech arm and a global west arm I tested them consecutively and without bias

149799

and I have a cut up sub frame that I do basic caster testing and bump steer testing, before they even get mounted on the car here you can see me Testing Spindles with different arm fitments

149800

thanks

[stab6902]

That's great information Rodney, sounds like you have firsthand experience with just about everything on the market! A couple more questions regarding the more budget-friendly options:

- How much drop is built into the imported lower control arms? Most sellers say "may lower car 1.5 to 2 inches;" what is it really?

- What's your opinion on the CPP tall C5 spindles (I think that's them in your subframe pic)? Any bump steer issues with the 1" taller height?


Thanks in advance!

[cornfedbill]

HEY! thanks Justin

Stab6902 is correct on the arms, those are the basic import arms, the company that imports them is in Sothern California, if you use them PLEASE replace ALL 4 ball joints, I cant recommended them in good faith, I tested those for 2 months, 8 events, during that time and the ball joints became so loose in just 4 events the car wandered and bump steered all over the road, after I changed them the arms felt fine for the next 4 events but I was worried if the balljoints were that cheap that I wasn't going to bet on the steel and welds to be any better


Rodney,

That is great to know. I bought a set of the Chinese uppers from Amazon. Speedway and Jegs sell the same for a bit more money. I have a set of Afco low friction ball joints that I will install. Thanks again for the heads up.

I was looking for control arms with slugs for adjustment. The stock stub on my '74 Nova has not caster. I am moving the upper control arm mounts rearward to give me some caster. Nominally I will be at about 10 degrees. The slugs will allow me to easily move between about 6 and 14 degrees of castor.

The Detroit Speed arms with slugs are no doubt better. However, my budget was not able to stretch that far at this point.

Thanks again for sharing your experience. It is useful.

[Titan1021]

Great info guys I will be sending Rod a message.

[Rod]

- How much drop is built into the imported lower control arms? Most sellers say "may lower car 1.5 to 2 inches;" what is it really?

yes the pocket is dropped down about 1 inch so it lowers the car about 2 inches, you can just add a 1inch spring spacer to the pocket and keep ride height

[Rod]

- What's your opinion on the CPP tall C5 spindles (I think that's them in your subframe pic)? Any bump steer issues with the 1" taller height?

good question.... I tested them and they did negate the positive camber but didn't really gain any during compression, so I added a tall upper ball joint (the .500 one) to the upper arm and the camber curve was great, but because the spindle don't have a drop in it a 17" inch rim wouldn't fit only 18" and larger the steering arm is still mounted in the stock location so bump steer was still as bad as factory

a simple help item for bump steer is a .500 tall outer tie rod like from proforge that pushes the pivot point down and that helps, but it can interfere with some wheel and tire combos, Baer brakes also make an adjustable bump steer kit that works well

none of these fix it (bump steer) but any time you can lessen it to make the car safer is good

CPP now has the spindle in a dropped version and I'm suppose to get a set in? not sure when?

[Rod]

Rodney,

That is great to know. I bought a set of the Chinese uppers from Amazon. Speedway and Jegs sell the same for a bit more money. I have a set of Afco low friction ball joints that I will install. Thanks again for the heads up.

I was looking for control arms with slugs for adjustment. The stock stub on my '74 Nova has not caster. I am moving the upper control arm mounts rearward to give me some caster. Nominally I will be at about 10 degrees. The slugs will allow me to easily move between about 6 and 14 degrees of castor.

The Detroit Speed arms with slugs are no doubt better. However, my budget was not able to stretch that far at this point.

Thanks again for sharing your experience. It is useful.

anytime Bill, like I said the arm never failed just the ball joint, the only thing that happen to the arm was a (only 1) caster slug cracked, so I would use a thick washer behind the nut to distribute the pressure more

the import arms are a REAL close nearly exact copy of the DSE arm, it was more than likely the arm that was cloned

[cornfedbill]

anytime Bill, like I said the arm never failed just the ball joint, the only thing that happen to the arm was a (only 1) caster slug cracked, so I would use a thick washer behind the nut to distribute the pressure more

the import arms are a REAL close nearly exact copy of the DSE arm, it was more than likely the arm that was cloned

I guess it would be a good idea to get some good quality slugs from a source like Joe's Racing. That is good to know that there is an issue. I would hate to have an arm get loose while racing at over 100 mph. It would be the type of excitement that I can do without.