View Full Version : Oil condition after break in?!?!
another69
02-18-2018, 02:49 PM
Finally have 500 miles on my crate LS3/480. Did the break in per GM instructions, etc. This is my 3rd oil change. 1st at under 30 miles, then at about 150, now at 500. Every time the oil looks like metallic paint if you look close & stir it. Non magnetic, and can't feel it between your fingers. Cut apart all 3 filters, found nothing alarming. Is this normal or not?
another69
02-18-2018, 05:28 PM
It stays suspended in the oil, I would compare it to very fine aluminum dust. 1st all aluminum engine for me so I don't have much to compare this to.
badazz81z28
02-18-2018, 05:34 PM
It stays suspended in the oil, I would compare it to very fine aluminum dust. 1st all aluminum engine for me so I don't have much to compare this to.
You are going to see stuff in the oil on first few oil changes and it will taper off. As long as you don't see chunks or the oil looks really bad like someone poured a jar of glitter into it. Ride it out.... Aluminum block or not, the same wear process occurs while everything breaks in. Is the oil pressure remaining strong? Why are you changing the oil so often? All you needed to do was change it after the initial break in procedures, then at 500 miles. Change the oil again and run it. You might see some stuff on the next change, but probably nothing on the second change after that.
another69
02-18-2018, 06:47 PM
Thanks for the reply - I hate the thought of all of that "dust" circulating through the engine. Also, I didn't flush my cooler and lines so there is about 1 quart of "old" oil each time I change it. Looks fine until I look real close, plus some pasty debris on the bottom of the drain pan.
badazz81z28
02-18-2018, 07:22 PM
Thanks for the reply - I hate the thought of all of that "dust" circulating through the engine. Also, I didn't flush my cooler and lines so there is about 1 quart of "old" oil each time I change it. Looks fine until I look real close, plus some pasty debris on the bottom of the drain pan.
The filter should be catching the debri. What type of filter are you using?
another69
02-19-2018, 01:16 PM
I was using the AC Delco filter, but also had an STP and a Mobil 1. When I cut them apart the AC definitely looked the cheapest by far. Either way, none of them showed much more than brown pleated paper, no real debris. What filter do you recommend?
On a side note, I spoke with GM powertrain about this, mainly because it is still under warranty. They basically told me what you did, and gave me a case #.
badazz81z28
02-19-2018, 04:34 PM
I was using the AC Delco filter, but also had an STP and a Mobil 1. When I cut them apart the AC definitely looked the cheapest by far. Either way, none of them showed much more than brown pleated paper, no real debris. What filter do you recommend?
On a side note, I spoke with GM powertrain about this, mainly because it is still under warranty. They basically told me what you did, and gave me a case #.
I use what I feel is a high quality filter. I solely use Royal Purple filters. However, I did use a AC Delco for break-in because I knew I would toss it after the initial runs then I used a Royal Purple up to 500 miles and beyond.
TheJDMan
02-19-2018, 05:18 PM
NAPA Gold filters are made by Wix and are high quality filters at a reasonable price. Just for piece of mind, you can continue to change oil every 500 miles until the "glitter" goes away. It will never hurt anything to change oil more often than recommended.
badazz81z28
02-19-2018, 05:46 PM
NAPA Gold filters are made by Wix and are high quality filters at a reasonable price. Just for piece of mind, you can continue to change oil every 500 miles until the "glitter" goes away. It will never hurt to change oil more often than recommended.
"Will never hurt to change the oil more then recommended" Just your wallet lol
Motown 454
02-20-2018, 08:04 PM
I'm glad you guys posted this because, when I do get to fire up my engine I'm on my own because the warranty was over before it was ready to run. I'm using Mobil one filters right through the break in with Joe Gibbs break in oil then Mobil one.
badazz81z28
02-21-2018, 05:59 PM
^^thats how mine was too. I used quality break in oil (actual engine break in oil). Primed the engine very well and checked for oil at the rockers. Make sure all the connections are good, no fuel leaks and followed the instructions to a “T”.? Your potential damage is going to come from the dry start, since it’s been sitting for so long....get a preluber.
DT69Cam
02-22-2018, 01:21 PM
I will be using a K&N filter. Not quite ready for 1st start-up. How did you guys prime the engine before 1st start-up ??
badazz81z28
02-23-2018, 09:36 AM
I will be using a K&N filter. Not quite ready for 1st start-up. How did you guys prime the engine before 1st start-up ??
LS engine pre-luber. They sell them at Summit Racing.
another69
02-23-2018, 02:19 PM
I ran a few quarts into the engine with a pre luber before starting also. One thing that did not work out was " Crank engine over with plugs out until oil pressure is shown on a gauge " per GM instructions. No oil pressure ever showed up at cranking RPM. Spoke with GM, they said it was normal. Fired up motor & oil pressure was 30 plus, verified with two guages.
Motown 454
02-23-2018, 09:05 PM
I'm going to try my hand at making an oil primer out of this helium tank. We have so many kids birthdays around here It was easy to save one.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (https://imageshack.com/i/pmFh54Cgj)
DT69Cam
02-24-2018, 07:36 AM
Wow a pre-luber really ??? The incidentals during my LS swap have been adding up like crazy !! LOL
badazz81z28
02-24-2018, 11:20 AM
Buy one and sell it. That’s what I did.
Making your own pre-luber is not worth the time and effort. You will need to weld a tube on the inside so pressure pushes liquid out and not the air you just pushed in.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-csum9164
Motown 454
02-24-2018, 03:23 PM
I didn't see that one only the Melling one.
DT69Cam
02-25-2018, 06:44 AM
Buy one and sell it. That’s what I did.
Making your own pre-luber is not worth the time and effort. You will need to weld a tube on the inside so pressure pushes liquid out and not the air you just pushed in.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-csum9164
I'm gonna have too. Thx.
TheJDMan
02-25-2018, 09:44 AM
Oh how I miss the days where you just chucked up a pump driver in your drill and spun the oil pump till it showed pressure then installed the distributor. But wait; I can still do that. :yeah:
Motown 454
02-25-2018, 03:58 PM
Same here. Not me.
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