Roadster Shop suspension

[1badchicken]

Purchasing a truck with a LS3 and 4l80. Looking for a shop in Michigan or close to install tubs and roadster shop front and rear suspension.
Any sugestions?
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[andrewb70]

RS is in Illinois. Not that far...Maybe have them do it?

Andrew

[dontlifttoshift]

Unsolicited advice. For almost the same up front cost, just do a spec chassis for that truck. You can sell your roller to someone and recover some cash. The labor is actually easier in the long run to swap the whole frame.

[1badchicken]

RS is in Illinois. Not that far...Maybe have them do it?

Andrew

Called them they can’t get to it until about June. I would like to have it ready by spring. As usual I will more than likely wind up doing it myself.

[dhutton]

Worth taking a look at these guys imho:

http://nolimit.net

Don

[csouth]

What part of Michigan? Reach out to Matt at Sled Alley Hot Rods, just north of Metro Detroit. He works on lots of high end projects including Mark Stielow's Camaro's. He also built my friends 68 Chevelle. Nice guy and top notch fabricator.

http://www.sledalley.com/

[RobNoLimit]

If you are interested in a full chassis from No Limit - and thanks Don and Donny, I agree, with time and labor a full chassis will cost less and deliver more, try these guys:

Smitty's Hot Rods - Ohio, 419-448-8080
Dick's Hot Rod Shop - Lakeville Mn. 952-469-9878
Level 7 Customs - Marion Il. 618-841-1875

We can get you a chassis in good time, but can't do the swap over, as our shop is too busy. If you have any questions give us a call, 865-940-1503. Thanks for your consideration.

[1badchicken]

Donny, Chris, Rob,

No Limit makes some killer stuff. One of my Techs Just bought a front and rear C-10 set up for a stock frame from them. Im not opposed to doing a full chassis set up, However Im trying to grasp the "Same Cost" idea. Front and rear assembly swap will cost lets just say give or take a few bucks about $10k. I know I can do the front without pulling the Motor. Ill pull the accessory drive, build a support frame bolted to the engine to hold the motor.

Also I can use my existing exhaust, fuel tank and other items.

If I go full chassis yes much better, but I may have to replace other items and the engine trans has to come out, pull the cab and box off. Lots of disassembly and re-assembly cost??

As a side note. no matter what I do even with a new front crossmember more than likely the Engine will not necessarily locate in the exact same place, meaning exhaust modifications and maybe a New drive shaft???

Anyone have anything to add please do. Im I missing something.

Thanks for your comments. I will wait to see what you all have to say before I start making calls to some of the places you suggested.

[dontlifttoshift]

How did you arrive at 10K to swap the front and rear suspension?

I get $8290 in parts for a RS front and rear setup. That does not include brakes, a center section, brake hoses, diff fluid, or steering linkage......approximately $4,500 in parts....plus shipping so we'll call it a conservative $13,000 and no one has turned a screw yet.

[1badchicken]

Yes Ok so $13,000 and that is if I do it myself for a Roadster shop setup or $10k for other setups ?, that's why I said "Give or take a few bucks" a full chassis is $20k plus labor of $10k to $15k so up to $35k. That was my point. I don't have a quote for labor for the front and rear swap. I have a quote to do a full chassis swap and tubs from the Roadster Shop for $10,000 to $15,000 on a GM A-body.

So what's the labor on a C10 to a roadster shop front and rear setup compared to a full chassis??????? If I wasn't clear in what I was asking I apologize.

Thanks for the help and advice guys

[csouth]

Yes Ok so $13,000 and that is if I do it myself for a Roadster shop setup or $10k for other setups ?, that's why I said "Give or take a few bucks" a full chassis is $20k plus labor of $10k to $15k so up to $35k. That was my point. I don't have a quote for labor for the front and rear swap. I have a quote to do a full chassis swap and tubs from the Roadster Shop for $10,000 to $15,000 on a GM A-body.

So what's the labor on a C10 to a roadster shop front and rear setup compared to a full chassis??????? If I wasn't clear in what I was asking I apologize.

Thanks for the help and advice guys

You asked for Michigan shop and I provided one above, did you give them a call?

[Rod]

fun thread

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[RobNoLimit]

First, to be honest, I feel a little guilty about putting this info on a "RS" based thread. - But, Information is king, and if it helps you make a better informed decision, then it's all good.

I agree that a chassis swap leads to more changes, but I would say, that with a front and rear suspension swap on a stock chassis, I would expect to run new exhaust do to changes on each end. Driveshaft may/may not need a mod, and there will be some brake and fuel line plumbing to do as well. There is labor on both sides. I have done a full suspension swap on a running C10 and we had about 90 - 100 hrs (includes exhaust mod). We have done some full chassis swaps on running trucks, and they have about 55 hrs, + exhaust fab. With a full chassis, you will end up doing new body mounts, and some additional upgrades while the parts are moving across. - We just can't help it.

Looking at your truck as it is, if you go to a full chassis, I would guess that you would want a "Stock Rail" profile. We do a "Raised Rail" chassis to get extra low, (same pricing), but this involves raising the bed floor, tunnel and inner fender mods. The choice is yours of coarse. Our base chassis is very well equipped. Full chassis structure, with all cab, bed, core support and bumper mounts, motor and trans mounts, complete Wide-Ride IFS, P/S, sway bar and 12" drilled slotted brakes. The rear suspension is our Fat-Bar with a low mounted panhard rod and outboard coil-overs, with a Moser 9" HD housing and 31 spline axles. (no gears or rear brakes). Brake lines are plumbed to stainless bulkheads at all four corners and to a set of bulkheads at the base of the firewall. The chassis are drilled and ported for wiring, batt cables, fuel lines and exhaust hangers. Your choice of coil-overs, Ride-Tech or Viking. Base chassis are $8975. A few things are needed to make a full roller. The most common adds are: Tank with EFI pump - $809, Dual fuel lines plumbed - $650, Gear set w/TrueTrack - $1250, Explorer 11.5" rear disk pack - $719. total = $13,303.
We also have a package for the more performance oriented. The 'Mac Pack. This adds the Tank with EFI pump - $809, Dual fuel lines - $650, Moser Floater w/31 spline axles and steel hubs - $200, Gear set w/TrueTrack - $1250, 12.19" rear brake with Wilwood E-brake caliper - $980, Rear sway bar - $465. Total 'Mac Pack chassis package, = $14,229.
If you estimate 7500 for swap labor and exhaust, these will put you in the 20K range. No way around it. But, you can sell off your complete shortbed chassis for 2K or so, maybe a little more. The total budget is more than some want to invest, but there are gains in time, ride quality, performance, and safety. I hope this information helps, all of our pricing and options are at www.nolimit.net. Thanks.

[CSG]

I have been following this thread as I would like to have one of these trucks in the future. OP, I would be asking about geometry advantages between different systems. While I am sure you won't be beating on that beautiful truck you are looking at spending a lot of money on any of these choices so I would want to be very informed at least on basics like wheel travel, roll centers, bump steer, camber & castor. Probably the most important thing is how well developed is the shock/spring package for the different choices.

[1badchicken]

You asked for Michigan shop and I provided one above, did you give them a call?

Thank you Chris, now that I have some info I’m ready to call some shops. I will be doing that if time permits over the next few days.
I appreciate your shop recommendations

[1badchicken]

Rob,
Thank you. That’s the info I was looking for. That helps a ton. $20k is in the budget.
I will take a look at the options you provided and figure out what I want to go with.

I will be going with a stock rail profil. I need the clearance to drive it regularly in Michigan on our roads

One other question. What is the widest tire I can get under the rear?
Front?

[1badchicken]

I have been following this thread as I would like to have one of these trucks in the future. OP, I would be asking about geometry advantages between different systems. While I am sure you won't be beating on that beautiful truck you are looking at spending a lot of money on any of these choices so I would want to be very informed at least on basics like wheel travel, roll centers, bump steer, camber & castor. Probably the most important thing is how well developed is the shock/spring package for the different choices.

CSG, all good points. That’s the next step in deciding on the chassis system. Gotta do some home work. My goal is to get this done by the first of June. That said done right and something I will be happy with. I have built cars in the past with some regrets. When I built my Chevelle the only thing I regret is that it’s not tubbed and on a stock frame. Not making the mistake on this truck or my Chevelle convertible.147550
As for beating on it, drive it like ya stole it man!

[csouth]

CSG, all good points. That’s the next step in deciding on the chassis system. Gotta do some home work. My goal is to get this done by the first of June. That said done right and something I will be happy with. I have built cars in the past with some regrets. When I built my Chevelle the only thing I regret is that it’s not tubbed and on a stock frame. Not making the mistake on this truck or my Chevelle convertible.147550
As for beating on it, drive it like ya stole it man!

I could have swore i saw this for sale on CL in Michigan...

[csouth]

Here's my friends Chevelle that Matt built. Won a 1st Place at Detroit Autorama 2yrs ago

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[1badchicken]

Here's my friends Chevelle that Matt built. Won a 1st Place at Detroit Autorama 2yrs ago

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Nice looking car. Love the black. Congrats to your friend!
I built my Chevelle to go to Autorama in 2014. Never made it, car was stollen at Good Guys Indy. Won the Muscle car pick. Won best in show at the Gilmore Museum. Spent almost two years searching for the thief that stole it, finally got it back. Long story. That’s why the car never made it Autorama after all that I kinda lost interest in the car.
yes you did see the car for sale. Didn’t really try to sell it that hard. Not sure if I really won’t to sell it. Just thinking it might be time to move on to something else, clear out some space in the garage.
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[RobNoLimit]

Rob,
Thank you. That’s the info I was looking for. That helps a ton. $20k is in the budget.
I will take a look at the options you provided and figure out what I want to go with.

I will be going with a stock rail profil. I need the clearance to drive it regularly in Michigan on our roads

One other question. What is the widest tire I can get under the rear?
Front?

Both front and rear are limited first by sheet metal. The OE rear well will fit a 295, some will say 305/315, but that gets VERY close. By widening the stock tub inboard, a 335 or 345 will fit. Our suspension stance would allow to 385mm (theoretical number, but good to know). Up front, a 285 is easy with the stance of the 'stock' profile rail. with 295+, there is contact with the OE inner fender. With modified stock, or 'Slosh' tubbs, 315 is easy, 335 can be done, but requires the use of a splined arm sway bar for extra clearance. - This is partly due to the fact that our Wide-Ride IFS turns 41/39 degrees (inside/outside) this is a good bit more than the OE suspension, and the tire/wheel starts to contact. Larger wheels, 18-19-20 help with this. Stock rail profile with a 28" dia tire will set the rocker 8" to 9" from the ground. Looks like a truck with a 4/6 drop. No Ground Clearance issues at all. FYI, Ultimate Headers makes a spec header for our chassis for LS and SBC, the collector output lines up perfectly with the exhaust ports in the chassis.

[1badchicken]

Sounds good, I need to call your shop to go through all the final details to get the chassis ordered. When we first spoke you had mentioned that your shop was pretty backed up and couldn’t get to the actual chassis swap. How fare backed up, what kinda time frame are we talking to get in?

[RobNoLimit]

right now 10 to 12 weeks on full chassis. We are just finishing up our third Pro-Tech chassis table, which should help speed things up in the next few weeks.