Whats cheaper basic 6.0 T56 build or LS1/2 T56 donor swap for first timers?

[813Demon340]

I'm looking to do my first LS swap and have been doing some research on what combinations are best. My question for those that have done it, or are pretty familiar with the swap is; whats the best budget (around $6500) minded swap:

A) Getting a 6.0 Lq4/Lq9/L92 etc and adding a cam, intake, and possible heads. Then adding a used T56 and all thats needed with it

B) Getting a complete take out from a LS2 GTO/etc that already has a T56.

C) Getting an LS1/T56 Take out from an F body and building a 6.0 to swap in later once the swap is up and running.

I'm not too worried about hp right now, more concerned with not getting nickeled and dimed to death on the swap over. I'd also like to get the car running and driving.

[badazz81z28]

I=The cheapest method would be to buy a complete pull-out whether it be a F-body, GTO or a truck. Then all you really need to do is flash the PCM for VATs and emissions. If you buy any engine and start messing with the heads, cam etc...The dollars will add up. On the other end, starting lower on the cost pole and building up will really nickel and dimes you to. The absolute cheapest method IMHO is a Truck 5.3 liter

I would...

#1. Decide what you want, displacement and power goals, then go from there.

I always wanted a LS7...Started out with an LS1 and built it up...Would have been cheaper to go LS7 from the get do.

[AU Doc]

^^^ That is good advice.

I'm just starting my LS swap, and I looked, and looked, and looked for an engine that was a "good deal." But it seems like all the junkyards are in on the 5.3/6.0 engine swap secret. Once I considered the cost of swapping the intake, TB, injectors, accessories, VVT delete, cam, etc. from a truck engine, I was always pretty close to what it would cost to buy a junkyard LS1. When I started looking at low mile LS1s, it was not a big jump to an LS2/LS3. Then, once you I started looking at LS2/LS3 pullouts, the costs were high enough that it almost made sense to buy a crate engine. If you're going to spend $5k on an LS3 dropout with 80k miles that you have no idea how it was treated, should you just pony up and buy a crate engine with NO miles for $6750?

[badazz81z28]

i would go new too if I was looking for an LS3. Get a Summit Racing Speed card and get 18 months interestvfree

[813Demon340]

Thanks for the replies! Wise advice. The new engine makes a lot of sense in the long run and has the HP goal I'd like to start with....and theres even a $200 rebate through the end of Sept!

[rickpaw]

Does your budget include the engine/trans/wiring harness/tank? Cause it's the little things that adds up.

Here's a decent LS2/t56 pull out for just under $6500.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2006-LS2-Engine-and-T56-6-Speed-Manual-Transmission-Complete-Pullout-Tuned-55K-/152705240580?hash=item238df10e04:g:zesAAOSwm7pZvFs y&vxp=mtr

If you have a $6500 just for the engine, then I'd go with crate LS3, but there's the accessory drive/wiring harness..etc..

[AU Doc]

You can get LS3 takeouts for about the same price. But they have the TR6060 which isn't as swap friendly.

[timopajala]

You can get LS3 takeouts for about the same price. But they have the TR6060 which isn't as swap friendly.

Thats the swap i went thru and its little tricky and have to modify trans tunnel etc to make it work. But i must say that the car is absolutely great after the swap...i just went for test drive and drove about 200km/h and no vibrations etc at all. Really fun to drive. I had to put caltracks on it to prevent the rear from turning and it bites really hard when flooring the gas. 4 link would be great for this swap but also the caltracks do the trick really good! Posi rear is a must with this because you will have serious traction issues with open posi :D

[AU Doc]

That's interesting. I hadn't thought about that approach. I'm not sure how much caltracks limit axle rotation. Another option is a CV driveshaft, and then there is the option of swapping the mainshaft and tail shaft to the Magnum units to retain the slip yoke.

[timopajala]

That's interesting. I hadn't thought about that approach. I'm not sure how much caltracks limit axle rotation. Another option is a CV driveshaft, and then there is the option of swapping the mainshaft and tail shaft to the Magnum units to retain the slip yoke.

The cv-driveshaft is not necessary if you buy this http://www.sonnax.com/parts/3868-3-bolt-adapter-flange-yoke and order custom driveshaft which has built in slip yoke like i did. It has 1350 u-joints in both ends. caltracks limits the axle rotation very well and i put some preload on them and they work really nice!

[expensivehobby22]

I bought a full, running 99 Camaro donor car with a built motor and rear end for 7k. Kept the built engine, trans, engine wiring, Tick clutch mc, brakes, and a some other odd/ends. Parted the rest and currently sitting at 4720 sold, with about $500ish left to sell. So, 2,280 currently for a powertrain, wiring, brakes, and some extras. I know it's not a 6.0 but you could do similar with a GTO. It was super easy to part out the car, other than the time put in to physhically take the parts off

[rickpaw]

....other than the time put in to physhically take the parts off

And the space to store/part out the car and dealing with flakes on craigslist. Sometimes it's the way to go, since you can get all, not most of the money back by part out the car. Then the drivetrain can cost next to nothing.

[expensivehobby22]

And the space to store/part out the car and dealing with flakes on craigslist. Sometimes it's the way to go, since you can get all, not most of the money back by part out the car. Then the drivetrain can cost next to nothing.

Good point, and you are 100% correct.