78 Camaro Type PT

[70rsss396]

Hi all, I’m starting my first Pro-Touring build. The car is a 78 Camaro Type LT I built for my daughter about 15 years ago (Below). It’s been sitting and taking up space in my garage for the last 8+ years. Every time I tell my daughter I’m going to sell it she through a fit…lol. So if I can’t sell it I might as well build it! I started this build in April a week before I broke my ankle having to have surgery. It’s dangerous to be on short term disability with a working computer and a good credit card………20k later my house looks like a parts department!

The build will include a 6.0L LQ9 with ported heads, big cam and a Holley throttle body Terminator. A roadrace compatible 700r4 for a trans feeding into a full floater 9” . Suspension is all SpeetTech with upgraded JRI shocks and an adjustable splined anti-sway bar. Inside will have upgraded seats a digital CF dash and vintage air.

Scott

[70rsss396]

First thing I started on was the motor……from a wheelchair! The plan was to have the stock head done, add a cam, timing chain, oil pan, head bolts and rod bolts and bearings. Once I had the motor painted and ready to go back together I found a bad cam bearing. At that point the motor went to the machine shop. After cleaning I had the cam bearing replaced, crank polished and the cylinders brushed honed. Now main studs were added along with new bearings and rings including total seal gapless top ring and finally together.

[mert.celet]

Looks Cool :)

[berdunord]

Nice car ! I love the paint job and your future build !

[70rsss396]

All, I’ll do updates as time allows till I get caught up to current work.

After I assembled the motor it was time to start on the car. But still in the wheelchair this looked to be an issue till I found a buddy, Roger, that needed a motor and trans for a project he was working on. So we worked out a deal, he would come over and help me get the 78 on my lift, pull the front sheet metal and nose and he left with the running 350/350 in the car. All I had to do was stay out of their way and watch them go! One thing I wanted to do was to back the 78 onto my lift so I could work on the firewall once the sub-frame was out. This also gave Roger more room to take out the drivetrain.

The next weekend, after my Doc cleared me to transition into a boot and crutches, it was time to pull the sub-frame. I made a couple of temporary ramps off the front of the lift to roll the car onto. Once in position I blocked up the body and un-bolted the sub-frame. Then it was a simple matter of rolling it forward lifting the car rolling it back under for a big work area for deconstruction. I found out when my motor was dropped off the lift made a nice engine hoist but turns out it does a good job as a hydraulic press too! Used it to push down on the sub-frame so I could compress the springs for a-arm removal.

[70rsss396]

deleted repeat post

[70rsss396]

After the sub-frame was dis-assembled it was time to wash of 39 years of grime. Turned out better than I thought using only some gunk and a small power washer.
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With the sub-frame set up back in its spot I needed to locate the new motor & tranny mounts. I am using CPP fully adjustable motor mounts and big block frame stand offs. On the 78 the stand off is on the motor and the rubber mount is on the frame witch is opposite of my 70 Camaro. So I had to locate and drill new holes in the frame for the BB mounts. Based on some measurements of firewall location at the frame I was able to push the motor all the way back on the adjustable CPP mount. The tranny mount was moved back where the front mtg hole on the crossmember lined up to the back mtg hole in the frame. Just needed to drill two holes. I did notch the FL side of the crossmember as the oil pan on the 700R4 is offset that way. Just wanted to make sure I had clearance if I can push the motor back any more. I have a ½” front to back to play with where the engine and frame mount come together depending where I add the spacer they need.
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[70rsss396]

Sorry it's been taking two+ days for my posts to show up, that why I've been making multiple post of the same thing........

[70rsss396]

I don’t know why but my last post took over two days to show up? Guess I’ll stop making multiple post hoping one will show up and just wait.

While I’ve been working on the sub-frame I had Timmy at GAP Racing weld the SpeedTech and caliper brackets to my full floating rear end. Because the SpeedTech suspension requires a pumpkin centered housing and the Speedway full floater comes as a pinion centered housing I also had one axle tube cut down to center the housing. I can’t have it coated till I get it in the car and line up the rear sway bar mounting pads that also needs to be welded to the axle. The other thing I have planned is to swap out the 5/8 studs for some ½-20 as I also plan to update the front.

For brakes I upgraded the rotors to 12 x 1.1 form the 11 x .81 that comes stock with the rear, and I'm using a 4 piston Wilwood caliper.

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[70rsss396]

Once the motor was back out of the way, it was time to mock up the front suspension. SpeedTech components are a work of art but the one think I wasn’t happy with was the non-adjustable front sway bar. After calling and talking to both Blake and Roger I sent back the bar and they sent me the main parts for an adjustable splined sway bar. Luckily my buddy and ace welder Randy had the correct size DOM tubing needed for the sway bar bushings. I got held up about a week waiting for my new 12:1 steering box from Pro-Touring F-Body.com, as it was on backorder. I also bought a new performance steering kit with a upgrade for bump steer correction outer rods from P-TF-B.

Based on some pictures SpeedTech sent me of a Chevelle they added a splined sway bar to I was hoping to place the linkage on the back side of the steering arms like they did. Unfortunately we didn’t see a part forward for that. I had to balance the travel of the arms from bump stop to bump stop and steering clearance side to side and bump to bump. To do this and not have the mounting tube sit too low where the bars were at a bad angle at ride height and clear the steering box we had to make the lower control arm linkage mounting in front of the steering arms.

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With the high spring rates I can run with this sway bar we needed to come up with a way distribute the load to the entire lower control arm and not just the front tube. Our solution was to mill a 1 ½” slot 1/2 way thru a piece of 1 ¼” tube to match the angle of the lower tubes. Plates were added on both sides to travel below the steering arms to interface with the sway bar linkage. First we tacked up the passenger side to check travel angles, and after some tweaking final mounting tube location was set and it was welded to the sub-frame. One last check was done after welding with both mocked up lower control arms and sway bar………I’m happy to say everything passed the motion tests. The sub-frame went off to powder and the control arms went to Randy’s welding shop to be fully burned in and braced.143449143450143451

[70rsss396]

I started looking at a way to take some weight off the front end. The 78 bumper is a massive piece hung way out front of the wheels. I wanted to replace the bumper with aluminum but it wasn’t time or cost effective at this point. I did the next best thing…..I made it a Sunday bumper…….you know Holy! Didn’t take long with the plasma cutter and I took maybe 20%+ off the weight including the mounting brackets.143468143469143470

[76TA]

Great idea with the front bumper. I'll have to do something similar with my '76 T/A build. Very similar structure.

[70rsss396]

Well it’s been a while since I did an update. Haven’t been able to do a bunch as I’m storing a buddies Camaro, under my Camaro, after he got flooded out during Harvey. I have been able to update the studs on all four corners to ½-20 vs the 5/8” rear and 12mm front. Also machined the valley cover for a PCV and had an oil filler bung welded to my blank valve cover so the cover that had the filler port cast in becomes my PCV breather location.

The latest item I’ve worked on is the front drive. After mocking it up I didn’t like the shape of the left side plate so I cut to taste and had both sides re-powder coated…….I think it looks better now.
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[CampbellshotrodsAZ]

Nice! Looking forward to seeing this progress, I've really gotten to like the 78-81 Camaros.

[Motown 454]

Looking good.

[70rsss396]

After two months of storing my buddies 69 Camaro, under my car, while he found ans bought a new house after hurricane Harvey I finally got back to making progress.over the last couple of weeks I got the firewall welded, body worked and painted. Also had to fix some small rust hole in the floor pans by forming and welding in some patch panels. Wasn't pretty but this isn't a show car. Today I finished cleaning the floor pans and sprayed them with bed liner. Now it's time to assemble my sub-frame for the final time.....I hope!

[Motown 454]

Nice job on the firewall and underneath, They both look great.

[70rsss396]

Had a buddy come by today and help me move the sub-frame from my rear porch to the garage. If it wasn't for a lack of 3/8 nylock nuts I would have both control arms and spindles installed. I'll hit the nut house tomorrow at lunch so I can secure the motor mounts.
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If you look close you can see a DSE plate camber shim. This will make it easy to do a camber change at the track.
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[Motown 454]

It came out great!

[130fe]

Great looking progress! What serpentine drive is that?

[grendel]

Looking good man.

[70rsss396]

Great looking progress! What serpentine drive is that?

Chris, that drive is made by Top Street Performance but I modified one of the bracket to my taste. I also had to modify the lower rear AC mounting bracket as it was 1/4" to thick. Not a big deal but I think the kit was designed for a different compressor that what was supplied?

[70rsss396]

Well there’s nothing like having a bunch of time off work during the holidays to get a project back on track. There is a since of accomplishment when you get your sub-frame assembled for the last time. A lot of work and some engineering has got me to this point……As I stated before I didn’t want to go with the non-adjustable sway bar that came with the SpeedTech front suspension so with their help sway bar rates I converted to an adjustable torsion bar set up. This is common on aftermarket sub-frame with rack & pinion but is a PITA setting up with a factory sub-frame and steering box. Because the tube the bar rides in has to be welded to the front of the steering box the steering arms operate between the lower control are and the sway bar linkage.

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Before I installed the JRI shocks I did a quick bump steer adjustment just to get into the pall bark. I will lock in the bump steer after car is built and has a real alignment.

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[70rsss396]

The last part of my holiday progress was to get my car back on 4 wheels, even if the front wheels are the same diameter as the rotors I will be running….lol With the help of my bike lift and a floor jack I maneuvered the sub-frame till I got the middle solid bushings aligned and bolts almost fully tightened, I was then able to lift the car and do the rears. Back down and the sub-frame back on the bike lift I was able to push the car back putting all wheel back on the lift.

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To top off New Year’s day I installed the motor/trans fully completing the goals I set for myself for my X-Mas & N.Y vacation.

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[aps63]

Looks great so far, I'm switching mine over to an LQ9 too.
Keep the updates coming.

[69Goat]

Nice work.

[70rsss396]

Well from the last update I’ve done a bunch of work with little progress. Lost a week thanks to Jegs sending me the wrong flexplate kit to go between my LQ9 & 700r4. Once I got the tranny bolted up I found I had a clearance problem between the left rear coil pack and one of the humps over the tranny tunnel on the firewall. All I needed to do is slide the motor forward ½” but the tranny mount was already at the end of the slot on the tranny X-member. So I had to pull out the X-member and have the mounting plate stretched forward 1”.

After I got X-member back and reinstalled and the motor bolted into the final location I dropped the intake on the motor to have a look how the air cleaner fitment. Looks like it’s going to work like a champ…..yea! Won’t bolt it on for good till I get all the wiring done.

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Next I bolted up the master cylinder but to my dismay the mounting brackets have it pointing up at a steep angle and will need to be modified……always something! Lol

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[70rsss396]

Over the last couple of weekends I bolted up the core support and fit my Griffin radiator only to find out I have a interference problem with my home made sway-bar frame mount. Had the bottom spigot cut and angled but I still don't fully clear. I'll have to grind a bit on my frame mount but I'll get r done. Had the booster bracket brackets cut down to reduce the angle of the master cylinder and played with the brake pedal some. Waiting on a new Clayton Machine brake pad and throttle to install everything. Also had a bung welded on my new aluminum tranny pan to mount a temp sensor for my digital dash. But the real progress came when I removed the axle and rear suspension. Now I can clean the bottom back half this weekend and weld in the upper shock mounting bar for the SpeedTech torque arm setup. Once that is done I can mock up my 9” and locate and weld the final brackets for the sway bar before powder coating. After Detroit Speed inner fenders and sub-frame connectors or installed I can bed-coat to match the front half.

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[Zspoiler]

Nice work Keep on Truckin !!1

[Ben@SpeedTech]

Very cool project, lots of good stuff going on here. It's nice to see this being done to a later Camaro too, something a little out of the norm. Looking forward to seeing more, keep it coming!

[woody80z28]

I like it! Makes me want to get back to my rubber nose. I've got another car stealing all the build time right now.

[70rsss396]

Well it was a productive three day weekend for me. Spent a Friday scrubbing the back side of the undercarriage with multiple cleaners and brushes (nasty Job!) so it is nice and clean now. Saturday morning I hit the bottom again but with a bucket of soapy water and a scotch bright pad.

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Since my cool looking Clayton Machine Works brake pad and throttle came in I was able to reinstall the brake pedal assembly. This in turn allowed me to bolt up the booster and master cylinder with the modified brackets I had cut down to reduce the angle of the MC.

Sunday morning I had my buddy Randy Porter come over and burn in my SpeedTech shock mount crossmember. While I have my own welded and do weld I leave the critical welding to a professional especially since he makes house calls! LOL After Randy made short work on the X member I was able to mock up the rear end and get the sway bar mounts in place where I can weld them in this week.

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I do need to say something about the Clayton Machine Works throttle pedal assembly. I bought the model made for a 70-81 Camaro. While it bolt to the same hole pattern and location as the factory pedal the factory throttle cable location where it comes through the firewall is nowhere near the cable arm on the Clayton pedal assy. It looks to be 3” off to left of the cable. If the pedal was designed with the adjustable cable arm to the right of the pedal a spacer could be made to move the are in line with the cable but that not how it was designed. I now will have to design a offset adapter.

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[Ben@SpeedTech]

Sweet! Won't be long till it's back on it's own sneakers! We're excited you chose our torque arm over other options. I own a factory 4-link car and after driving/racing mine and then a customer's torque arm in a Nova I was sold. You'll find it gives you a nice drive and is super smooth and predictable at the track.

Looking forward to further updates!

[70rsss396]

Thanks Ben, unlike the Clayton Machine part that looks great but doesn’t fit as well I have been very impressed with all the SpeedTech components. Not only that but the personal service I have received either from Roger, Blake, Jay or yourself has been outstanding. I wasn’t sure which way to go at first till I talked to Tim at GAP Racing and he convinced me SpeedTech was the way to go. Tim’s dad and uncle are old friends of mine so I know he was shooting me straight and I glad I listen.

[70rsss396]

Over the last couple of weekends I have been doing some prep work for bigger things to come. First after mocking up my rearend housing at the middle of the shock travel I welded in the rear sway bar mounts.

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During the week the housing went to powder coating and my mufflers came in.

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Next I started marking out the cut lines for the Detroit Speed sub-frame connectors. But before I started cutting I doubled checked my sub-frame alignment based of off DS instructions. Unfortunately it was off more than I thought it was, but after a bunch of plumb bob work and adapting a hole saw to get the center point of the lower ball joints I was able to get it within 1/8” which was in line with the instructions. I was able to get one connector cut in before I had to put an end to my fun for the weekend. Hope to have them in by next weekend.

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[rickpaw]

Nice progress. Looking forward to see it completed.

[70rsss396]

Well it’s been a few weeks since I posted an update. I’ve been dealing with some of the unglamorous stuff like welding, priming and seam sealing sub-frame connectors and mini-tubs. The latter is the only chassis work I’ve farmed out. Considering they knocked it out in three days last weekend (Fry, Sat & Sun) and I was sick all weekend it worked out great. I did have to get in the steering shaft and joints so I could turn the wheels while loading. This weekend I need to pull the rear end out one more time so I can finally paint under the back half. I can see a faint light at the end of the tunnel where I can start putting the back of the car together for the last time.

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[70rsss396]

I haven’t done an update for a while on the Camaro, but I have been making some progress like finished painting bottom back area. As of this last weekend the rearend is in to stay….I hope! Loaded the new pumpkin then the axlel and finished the floating hubs. Would have been done last week but Speedway sent the wrong size axle seals when I bought my housing. But they took care of me and all is good.

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When I purchased my pumpkin I told them I had to have standard Ford clocking on the pinion support. Not all aftermarket pumpkins are made that way. In one ear and out the other I guess. Now my trailing arm support block is off 10° now I have to re-drill and weld on the outside of a few new hole as the mat’l will be too thin after drilling. I wished SpeedTech slotted the hole from the get go then they would fit a host of aftermarket pumpkins.

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Also starting to receive the next round of parts. Going to start at the rear and move to the front on plumbing and wiring. Roll bar will get installed when I get one of my buddies small enough to fit in the trunk to help..lol.

New battery and tray....the tray is now splattered painter to match the trunk.

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[Ben@SpeedTech]

I checked with Jay and after seeing your pic he suggested usually the rears that have the non Ford clocking aren't that much of an angle difference. Hard to tell in the photo but could you possibly have the billet pinion mount on backwards? Maybe swap it 180* on a vertical plane?

If that doesn't work, I'm not in sales and don't know part numbers but I believe we have the pinion mount with the other clocking too. Let's try those options first before you drill new holes.

[70rsss396]

Ben, thanks for the reply. The pinion block is mounted with the thick side facing to the front per the instructions. Because the five mtg holes are not evenly spread, on the bolt circle, the block can only fit one way. I dropped off the block last night to have the lower block portion EDMed from the OD of the mtg ring. I can then install both parts and mark where they re-clock before welding them back together. Updating to a slotted pinion plate that will cover a wide range of aftermarket pumpkins as a standard part would help customers like me in the future.

[killer69]

Ben, thanks for the reply. The pinion block is mounted with the thick side facing to the front per the instructions. Because the five mtg holes are not evenly spread, on the bolt circle, the block can only fit one way. I dropped off the block last night to have the lower block portion EDMed from the OD of the mtg ring. I can then install both parts and mark where they re-clock before welding them back together. Updating to a slotted pinion plate that will cover a wide range of aftermarket pumpkins as a standard part would help customers like me in the future.

is that a Mosier center section? if so we have a different pinion mount for it that is clocked correctly

[70rsss396]

Hi Blake, There is a big Y on the case so I'm betting it's a Yukon case. At this point It will be quicker to cut, re-clock and weld the block I have than to have a new one mailed in. I appreciate y'all trying to help but this is on the local shop I got the pumpkin from because I warned them about the clocking right up front.

[70rsss396]

Earlier I expressed my displease over the Clayton Machine Works throttle pedal assembly and the fact that it was marketed for my car but wasn’t engineered correctly to match up with the factory throttle cable. Don’t get me wrong it’s a beautiful piece but you shouldn’t have to pay that much for a part only to find it is under developed as far as I’m concerned. I had a buddy machine an adaptor that slides over cable arm from the side and bolts in place. It extends out to the stock cable locating and accepts the stock cable.

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[70rsss396]

One of the things I did a few weeks back was install a fuel pump panel in the truck. Ordered one from Detroit speed and after they sent me some Mustang parts I got the correct panel. Super nice people to work with took care of the problem ASAP. But as with a bunch of parts the panel is made for an early 2nd gen Camaro with a flat floor. That’s not the case with a late 2nd gen. I had to bend the mounting plate and cover to match and re-shape a couple of humps in the floor before I could weld it all together. A PITA but after it was welded, primed, seam sealed and painted it was well worth the effort.

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I also added a diff vent and tank vent with check valve. Used the SpeedTech rear shock mount as an attachment point and got the vent as high as I could under the car.

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[70rsss396]

Well I got my pinion block back from the EDM shop, re-clocked, welded and painted…….nice to have the rear buttoned up finally! Was able to get my driveshaft measurement and built, It will be in this weekend.

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Started on the Detroit speed roll bar. After reading the instructions I had a buddy come buy and help me remove the rear glass set in 40 year old rock hard Butyl tape. He knew the trick and we got the glass out intact. With the DS template I marked the package tray for both ends of the slots for the back bars. A 2” hole saw and a dimple die laid the foundation for the slots. The instructions said that with the glass out you could tack the back bars to the main hoop and roll the bar forward and take it out of the car for finish welding………..Fat Chance! No way the bar was coming out so we welded the back and cross bars in the car but not the assembly in place so I can tilt it forward to paint the top of the bar and install the headliner. Now the headliner move up the schedule…..but it all need to be done at some time.

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[70rsss396]

It been quite a while since I last posted my progress. I’ve moved forward of several fronts, had to work around some issues and solve others but it sure is fun. Finally finished installing the SpeedTech goodies and JRI Shocks plus the rear brake and fuel lines. I might change the routing of the fuel pressure line once I see what final ride height will be?

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I did get held up by my upholstery as my 2-week turn around on my headliner turned into 6 weeks and then a 2-week problem with a bad glue job. This held up my roll bar install as I had to install the Headlines before I could finish welding in the bar. At least that is behind me now, but the pattern of slow turn around has moved to the custom package tray. ☹

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After laying down my X-Mat on the floor I unrolled the new carpet to allow it to relax. I won’t install it till I get all my wiring run from the trunk. I did pull out the front windshield, it was cracked, so I had access to lay down a fresh coat of paint. I used this extra access to run my Holley shift light and GPS antenna through the Vintage Air defrost ducks.

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[Zspoiler]

Very nice work .Can`t wait to see it finished I have a 1979 Z-28 RS myself.

[70rsss396]

Again, it’s been a while since I last posted my progress. Between being hammered at work and being a one man show during the majority of the build I’ve made a lot of little steps since the last update. I have been working towards staring the motor for the first time. As I have already had the fuel system up and running I turned to the power steering system.

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After and mounting the tank tucking inside the core support I found a good spot tor the cooler. I made up the hoses and after they were installed, and fluid added I checked it off the list……until the next morning when I found a puddle of oil. This tank didn’t have a vented cap so I added a vent pipe in the bung opposite of the return……that bung leaked! I took it to my welded Randy who removed the bung patched the hole and welded the bung back moving it up and over. I never liked the vent being straight across from the return port anyway.

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Next, I needed to the final install on the Vintage Air system, so I could figure out where I was going to mount the Holley ECU. I can attest that snaking the air & heater hoses through the kick panel and out the firewall is a PITA when doing it by yourself! I finally stuck some wood under the unit to hold it close enough where I could bolt it in place. The computer came next. Based on engine wiring harness length I found a good spot and made a mounting plate to attach the computer to.

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Can’t start a motor without power so that was the next goal. I had already mounted the battery tray, so I just needed everything else in the trunk before moving to the dash area. First, I mounted a disconnect between the battery ground and the ground lug I welded to the body. I then made a bracket to hold a Ford solenoid, two circuit breakers and a fuel pump relay. One breaker supplies power to the dash and the other to the front of the car where I’ll power fans, lights, horn and tie into the alternator. All the brackets were splatter painted to match the trunk.

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[70rsss396]

I thought I would do one more update before the end of the year. First off, it’s alive!! Fired her a couple of weeks ago just to find 0 oil pressure. Turned out to be a bad “new” sending unit…..wipe forehead!!!
One of the things I’ve had made that I haven’t shown yet is my package tray. Had to have it made to work with the roll bar and allow my tune without showing the speakers.

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While I still need to decide if i'm going to bodywork and paint or use carbon fiber, I bolted up the stock inner fender wells, so I can check wheel size and offset over my Christmas break. I had the passenger side on for a few week to check for some plumbing clearances…..but once I added the other I found a problem. I had no clearance under the proportioning valve for the front brake lines. I had to move the valve back and up a bit and make new lines from the master cylinder.

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[syborg tt]

It's nice having the day off to catch upon build threads. Very cool build and I look forward to hearing your thoughts on the Holley EFI.

Where did you end up putting the coils and ignition box ?

[70rsss396]

Thanks Marty, the coils are mounted behind the heads and the hole motor runs off of the Holley computer. I couldn't be happier with the Holley system....All I have wired up at this point is the components needed to run the motor but when I started it for the first time, I hit the key and it roared to life instantaneously.

[70rsss396]

Since my last update I’ve made some real progress and done a bunch of twiddly bits, while important, are that not worth detailing………like running my own wiring harness. The biggest boost to the built in this update is getting my tires and wheels. GAP Racing helped me out some but it was still a big bill to swallow……but WOW to me, they fit the car…..size and style wise.

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[70rsss396]

I tried to do the exhaust system myself but started to look like crap so I took it to the shop that did the rear tubs as that is also up his alley. After looking under the car he said no problem and he could even add a crossover with the SpeedTech trailing arm suspension. He started working his way back until we found the 3” in/out 4” thick black widow mufflers I ordered were 4 5/8” thick so we stopped, as we felt it would hang to low. I ordered a set of 3” in/out 3” thick Spin Tech mufflers. Because they were stainless they had to be built to order this is not finished yet. At this point I have a time slot scheduled for next week to finish the exhaust.

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The other thing we did at Aeron’s shop was build a firewall to subframe brace. I had already made the four mounting plates and hardware before I got there, so all Aeron had to do is bend some tubing and weld them in place. All said and done I think we added a little stiffness to the frontend.

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[70rsss396]

Because I am running a Holley digital dash I needed to come up with a new gauge layout. I turned to Custom Works Performance for one of their carbon fiber dash panels and did my own thing. Along with the digital dash I added the touch screen tuner, light & wiper switches and a couple of gauges. One for fuel and the other a gear indicator. I also made a C/F switch panel for the console. In the console is a highly modified “Ratchet Bitch” shifter to operate my 700R4. I will cover the shift hole with another C/F plate.

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[70rsss396]

Well it’s now the new year and I’m seeing more light at the end of the tunnel. Exhaust is done, and sounds wonderfully nasty! 171604

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1I7XAMRKpEM

Once I got the my car back home I could concentrate on finishing the front end that been off and sitting in my living room since I started this project. Before I could install the fenders I had to cut holes in them for the Z28 vents. After measuring a real Z28 for the factory location the fenders were done and ready for the vents.

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I also added some dimple die detail to the inside of my fenders.

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Unfortunately as I was retrieving the nut to bolt on the passenger side vent the fender rolled off the work bench denting, chipping and scratching the hell out of it. That was a four week delay getting it fixed and painted. In the end I was able to get the fenders and nose fitted and aligned. Once fixed and installed I was able to fit the hood, unfortunately we cracked my new wind shield while adjusting it…..got to watch out for the sharp corners in the rear! The cowl induction air cleaner base I have needs to be trimmed to fit the hood now installed and I’m not sure how I am going to do that yet but I have some ideas. For now I bought a new standard drop base to run.

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I’ve spent a bunch of time on wiring as I bought a universal fuse block from AAW and fashioned most of the harness from scratch. I’m down to the last few wires to be done so I should be done this weekend. I have finished the relay panel and front light wiring harness along with some block-out panels. The relay panel and light wiring harness connector sits in front of the driver side inner fender. To cover this I made a removable cover that held in with ¼ turn fasteners. Although the panels are all white in the pictures I have had the powder coated matt black already. I also made a bolt in close out panel for the other side with a slot for AC/Heater hoses.

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[Martin71RS]

really nice work, car will be very cool I think :-)

[1965gp]

This is a really nice build- which part of Houston are you in? I’m in Spring. I didn’t catch it until you mentioned George’s Automotive Performance

[70rsss396]

This is a really nice build- which part of Houston are you in? I’m in Spring. I didn’t catch it until you mentioned George’s Automotive Performance

I'm on the west side I-10 & Kirkwood.

[1965gp]

I was over there looking at a Firehawk yesterday. Used to live in that area off of Eldridge. Now I’m at Louetta and TC Jester on the north side.

Any good cruises in that area?

[70rsss396]

Coffee & Cars at Memorial City Mall but it just got shut down for two months because of assholes doing burnouts.

[70rsss396]

Over the weekend I was able to add a little spoiler extension to help in high speed turns when she finely hits the track.

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