70 Chevelle "Not a Space Shuttle"

[Deserttaco]

I normally post over on the Chevelle forums, but figured that much of my car was actually inspired by a lot of the builds on here...

So I finally got some motivation after not really touching my project car for almost 6 years. I bought this car in 2008 with the intention of it being a 8-10 year project for me. It was a relatively clean 70 with a few minor spots of rust, but was in fairly good condition, and had most of the bits and pieces that I needed. During this build, I am somewhat of a perfectionist, and it can bog me down quite a bit at times if I'm not sure how to tackle something, or something doesn't quite work the way that I thought it should. It's happened a few times over the last 8 years and I always think back to a friend of mine when I was building my rock crawler. Anytime I'd get worried about details, or get hung up on something that didn't matter, he'd always tell me, "Look man, we're not building a space shuttle here. It's good enough!" Over the course of this build I have to tell myself that over and over. Anyway enjoy the pictures, I'll do my best to keep updating this tread as the build progresses.



My preliminary vision for the car was an image that I saw online, and although over time my vision has changed a bit, this is what my goals were...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/EgmTqCKN_vBt5RTzdAf21PZ7YvFKYn8kQBTNoEdH-1.jpg

My story starts off like many others. a 70 Chevelle has been my dream car since I was about 10 years old. I loved the look of the car, the sound of the car, but wanted many of the modern conveniences that we all take for granted in todays modern cars. Effectively I wanted something that looked the part of a 70 Chevelle, but that was reliable, comfortable, and powerful. So I bought this shell of a car.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/OQeg8AZ7UIQZQgHc5zunItZ1YqXNRr9uhHl7U92h-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/_4YrQZGIJbT248NK1FLuJHzlQXHxEH76ZjuPoutc-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/G8U3qi_OlplAyW08cWNiM9eIybJDuH9s88v64Vfq-1.jpg


After I got it home I started to work on stuff that I could manage in my garage without spending a bunch of cash on. My plans for the car was LS7 (yeah right)... T-56, Nice smooth lowered suspension, Great AC (a must in Arizona), The car itself smelled like rat turds, so I tore everything out of the inside and pressure washed the whole thing. After it was clean of the dirt, grime, and turds, I smelled a lot better, and it also allowed me to evaluate fully what I'd brought home.


Progress on this build will be painfully slow. Although I've gotten the urge to get this thing back on track, I have a VERY full time job, my wife is in grad school, and I have 3 kids at home. I am working on some innovative (cheap) stuff here in an effort to achieve my goals without breaking the bank. So far ALL of the work has been done by myself, and the either my dad or my son. The only outside assistance has been the custom engine mounts that I had made at a friends machine shop.

[Deserttaco]

I mentioned that there was a couple of spots of rust that I wanted to take care of, and since I just dropped a bit of coin on the car itself, I was looking for stuff to do on the cheap... So Rust repair was what I started to tackle. Being a Southern California car, it spent it's life in the high desert, so all of the weather-stripping was more or less trashed. I bought some panels from ebay, craigslist, and OPGI to get me going.

First spot was the floor pans right under the front seats. Although there were only a small spots that had holes, there was heavy pitting, and I didn't like it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/vB64p_czu0c1kDlwlpTzPhtbR1JdvOJESUcrwr8Y-1.jpg

So out it came:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/waQ7PqD5ZBM7UpX2fR76I3StyvIW198Ug0HCt85b-1.jpg

and in went the new metal:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/85l9dm1T51XGJAj7zc80iRTvp7uIQRAQlclt4PlB-1.jpg

Repeated the same process for both front seats, and also had issues with the rear seat pans that turned out to be worse when I got the braces off... So those were replaced too.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/JqOcIhXCVsyxbQrZbaSgwSv7GHtd1UksnGfiLa9K-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/oFTLFzOybAFzSnI0x552t_qMWxNZuxu09bdxHRXt-1.jpg[/QUOTE]

[Deserttaco]

So Rust repair continued:

After the floors were in good shape, I decided to tackle the rear window rust. Most of it looked pretty good, but there were a couple little holes that I didn't like...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/ux6c5e1zc9qGW8QxQGmEB0MKGkDMBZiT4A_6__6d-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/b6u_iHq7BEQ6UhW2u12GpA2EsSafYnuLg6f7weLk-1.jpg

Started making small cuts...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/lHGX98xacCbarH_rWa8nfyYwKgWrY43ay9C1dgEz-1.jpg

Then they got bigger, as I kept finding more:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/7a_Q2BDvTrMT9m987ojU3tY5dN3pxIYzeVv_wZXu-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/dEyFgpROpCjKjDHVzzMySOcaP0mSmw5qsCJ5Odzc-1.jpg

Until the whole damn thing came off.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/nxidVrOPqBtWKbSOx_kA04s1j6ddv_weSbBDIcxj-1.jpg

and Santblasted:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/rIYBjMttNKCcploEq4g3OikoGMzWMr8TVoOJgItr-1.jpg


Both sides of the window channel had some deep pitting that had to be fixed.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/w2u1jWwBXDQyPwFCzC5yHRvKChLWOUd5GmRcd7Zi-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/mQXTXMabx3ZMSj5qyKq3wsb5wn0NTQEgL8oO7Gx7-1.jpg

So I cut it out:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/dtmqyschr7TD3iucrck_xdIetfynuhu4cUF86AwR-1.jpg

New piece fabricated. I cut the original piece just below the curve of the corner to preserve the trim and how it fit.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/B5SMeOj5Hbc986jWxLpVmwkFZSnPt2VQBgYKmbYp-1.jpg

[Deserttaco]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/MNenjR6qdcACUp6yTBMMPIlx58d_8RMVQPKSoclH-1.jpg

And all welded up with new pins for the trim:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/fEL1EG6wklR0D5niyeYID1Vt74L2wD9AP9wE3Lxl-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/Ade0OSjdn3lc83Gywe4s8ravbvuMvy9QilyMEhwA-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/bWiMp266qW18Ko77G_niwPgIK02j0KEq82l81Jp2-1.jpg

I trimmed the tulip panel so that about 1 inch of the original panel was left to preserve the factory seam. Cleaned up with a wire brush and various abrasives.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/6bRbQnl_1AKf2AUwX6oUUZPHQTkcN8iTD3DbS2tb-1.jpg

Trimmed the aftermarket tulip panel to match:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/0UnnQ5TZJiFd5t1V0Gk1d0kogwWgx3oVPe9vUWPs-1.jpg

But the rearmost portion of the panel didn't line up with the original curvature of the opening of the trunk panel:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/iUPENWjuCM0t3WLpOnS1JTOzY0tpUw5yXvEHbiGp-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/JZhVxicdJG16jwEt_xY6fheABxpSYnrr9XF0_IZw-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/WYfPcZz9stpb1IjMMFmi5iG1SfIbjVQpX9eNfxJu-1.jpg

Now that's where the fun stopped. Because I didn't have the weatherstripping, I didn't want to weld this on permanently. So it's still in this condition. I'll permanently attach it once I'm doing the body work...

- - - Updated - - -

So when I started this project, I was a service engineer fixing medical equipment. I spent my life behind the wheel of a car driving 50-60K miles per year, and most of that time for the first few years was spent with my backside planted in a Dodge Magnum. It was gutless as it gets, but it was quiet and comfortable, so I sourced a set of pristine black cloth (I dislike leather and pleather).

The front seats look like they are a bit tall, but with some trimming of the bracketry, they should fit nicely, The rear seats however fit like they were made for this thing... width wise anyway. The bottom of the seat follows the contour of the floor perfectly, and I only had to trim a little bit of foam from the bottom to get it to sit nicely. The seat backs were a little tall, so I modified them to fit.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/DEEBhsyok1klA5t2w9KaST2INxMkpWQcsB5FAixO-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/lGeIkq874GyYhQuJ7OaY41acc1oLNfcHmiekJTHD-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/ptX56Wbuma651woCmOgke9bGNJLs8JLungo7rvPZ-1.jpg

This is post surgery...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/jNwdR9y9WDwQJX0_jxfk634kGcpXUJxjnu4CZh__-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/2LV0VgClIBGt1ZoJ3bfGwInELTVlUDRJDtQEMEtN-1.jpg

Now those seats are just mocked into place, and the covers aren't trimmed yet, just tucked underneath. An upholstery guy I am not, so I'll have to leave that to professionals so it doesn't look like crap...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/WI2lCkc33u769B6eJN1kCjZle5RQ3un5XpoDuIwV-1.jpg

There is some extra bracing that I need to do because I removed the separator, but the 2X2 tubing at the top of the seat backs will be the start of that bracing.

This is effectively where that project stopped for now until I get farther along with the interior. I didn't mount the front seats yet because I didn't know what was going to happen with the transmission tunnel, I didn't want to mount them, then have to move them because I needed to widen the tunnel.

- - - Updated - - -

So like I mentioned in the first post, my plans were for an LS7 and T-56, that was until I saw how expensive those damn things are... So I thought my goals were a little lofty with my miniscule budget (wife and 3 kids at home), so I started keeping my eye on ebay, craigslist, and the local classifieds. Every once in a while, I'd see the wrecked F-Body with an LS1, but more often than not they had a 4 speed auto, the ones that had a 6 speed still commanded a bit of money. I also kept my eye out for an 04-06 GTO, and wouldn't you know it. a relatively low mileage 06-GTO came up on craigslist for 5K in the California desert,
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/XiResNAIYArZRoDXDKOfFU3j5PZoBF_G6RN0Jmjw-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/QoQB_zftbZ8JZWeNkmfY7pvhdZH72JNjPuW3lMkO-1.jpg

I contacted the guy. on the phone he was pretty sketchy but confirmed that it was an LS2 with a 6 speed. I was worried about the condition of the engine from the picture above, but he confirmed that the engine was OK, and that he was able to turn it over. I grabbed my dad, and headed out to So Cal that day with cash in pocket. I didn't have a truck or trailer, so I drove out in my van, and planned on renting a U-Haul and trailer to tow it back if I ended up purchasing it.

When we got to El Centro, the guy was just as sketchy as he was on the phone, and told me that the car was in Calexico, and just like it sounds, it's right on the border to Mexico... We go check out the car, and it looks WAY worse than the pictures that he sent me.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/Q3rkFHq3f4T2FFQS0X1oN_3a_HtfC4MuKZuqgJP2-1.jpg

The core support is so entangled around the engine that there is NO way there was any movement from the engine. Both engine mounts were ripped apart, and so was the transmission mount. The entire drivetrain was shoved back almost 6 inches. I waffled on buying it because I couldn't tell if the engine was any good. The interior was in pretty good shape, as was the rest of the body. I decided to pull the dipstick and it was dry. I told the guy that the whole reason I wanted the car was for the drivetrain, and started to pack up my stuff. He asked me if I was going to buy it, and I told him No, that there was too much damage, and I couldn't verify that the engine was good. He asked me what I would pay for the car, and my dad piped up that it's really only worth about 2K. The guy countered back at 3K, and we settled on $2800. We traded the title for cash, and went to get the truck and trailer and loaded it up to head back to Arizona.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/uaSpRJuXsjlSXboUxyNx2IzoECginRF6UXrua5IJ-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/uUhvFMdoVFYZJ4ZZ4Qj9ZklGJdaAV7ZCb2COMKZ5-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/OfrObx_ARf5WivhnmXqb83myNS9DEutmgKu4XSmh-1.jpg

Made it back to AZ and bot the car rolled back into my garage.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/F3ojKtzYmB6rHR1JijaW72kZ5K544dxQ1K2jKvq2-1.jpg

After a couple hours with a sledge hammer, Sawzall, portapower, and jacks, I had this:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/kNyS_nCUicUcgDQyI86QcqRInC8kDR8Q05AMzdKI-1.jpg

[Deserttaco]

Spent a couple of hours fixing damaged wiring, and throwing some JB Weld on the cracked oil pan. I borrowed the battery from my rock crawler, and put the key in the ignition...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/VV2nuOnS4cYPEgvzoKAcq5SlZfeAQzpjIVlqApM1-1.jpg

a Quick turn of the key, Netted me a running engine!!!! It sounded great!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/vpiyhucDts5cCGdC2fLyoPUPfAC3uiMaMfUG5J1L-1.jpg

Over the course of the next 8 months, I parted that GTO out and sold off anything I didn't think I could use. Those GTO guys are strange. They wanted the strangest things from that car. Finally I was left with all of the parts and pieces that I wanted, (Engine, Transmission, complete drivetrain and body wiring harnesses, HVAC, Exhaust, tons of little parts and pieces, I cut the pieces of the core support out for the radiator and condenser so I can just mount a GTO radiator to the Chevelle... Finally I was left with the body shell, doors and that was about it. I cut them up with a sawzall and dropped it off at a scrap yard...

My Prize.... :laugh:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/uAJcKRgyp7ej1S8hd_ZkATzBzrBdFfotr0vzFPeB-1.jpg

The inside of the engine looked AMAZING!!!!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/86wn7YUtfAFtqgoudPGIawli5Xh25blhp63qW2Bg-1.jpg

Now came time to marry the old with the new. This is what I started with. Pretty crusty
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/tKPw5AHA23na6N7emjdRXbUB4Xeioz3TMQTFH5OK-1.jpg

I spent a little time with a wire wheel cleaning up the framerails and crossmember and with the Edelbrock adapter plates I ended up with this...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/IzKqGgtlEdzEXdfF59C2gQuSsuOA2wOg8itGM4vk-1.jpg

Pretty good (At First, This is one of those times my OCD kicks in and I have to remind myself that I'm not building the space shuttle.).... I sourced a CTS-V oil pan and didn't like what I saw...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/esA0rTUzaVBKVKxEJa1p5Y3i4DcrgyjqudxRqQkE-1.jpg

So I monkied around with it, ended up making my own engine mounts to get the engine and exhaust where I wanted it where the oil pan was flush with the crossmember and the exhaust was about 3/4 of an inch from the floor pans. They were pretty ugly and heavy, so I had a friend make me some out of aluminum so they were lighter and prettier.. Those pics will be later because it took him 5 years to actually get them made... (I wasn't really pushing him either. I wanted some adjustability with these mounts so you'll see my vision in a later post.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/h3gajdO4t2Kja5G2VBYYSdefPSntt669_s4J892C-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/CHtgWgT9HaubcCZoari0IQIu4nOxvfpqWDOQ7Atd-1.jpg

Since I was at a point where I was waiting on engine mounts, that's where this part stalled...

- - - Updated - - -

Now for the part that made me probably the most nervous... I am cheap... and I wanted to use as much of the GTO as I could because it all worked together. My Chevelle was a factory AC car, but it was in extremely poor condition. I also wanted a smooth firewall, so I decided to use the GTO cowl, and HVAC unit... Well can't have Chevelle HVAC and GTO HVAC living in the same space, so out came the cut off wheels and sawzall. I started pretty small, but ended up going big! I started off by removing the upper cowl by the spot welds, this took me a LONG time to separate the two pieces without damaging either.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/ZXEpH0fCX1pV_vOcSvGxAD7igZD_Y8JDiRGtfEye-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/xoz3bR3JpNthg4eZ9SofDM6JVM8T9fnC0kKjfguG-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/W1T73pFOkXEjF0AwNren7TcSMV0lV_b55Uv9fDGz-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/eP9bIhaPO1xO9lQTqnCnhUV_BzDBWWkFdHOU1poS-1.jpg

I kept the cowl from the GTO (along with some other body pieces) so I decided to use it form this.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/ebuv1FSGsyygzDlpWE3z5KiJk9GBT3emM5hTF6TN-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/XeSfU6XCm0G9xyhrmdnmvmQxLucIltLdjtR38ZC1-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/KC2iQSPUiN5LF_K8O18tJBoNY0ycdoz3qYkxgC14-1.jpg

And it all fits under the factory Chevelle cowl...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/wRhsunqqS5R0OHNeWCMhFLLSWgKwYJzCW8bzPPUz-1.jpg

Now at this point, I didn't know where the transmission tunnel, or Firewall were going to end up because I didn't have the engine placement finalized, so this project stopped here.

After this was done, The car took a back seat, as I was working on rebuilding the suspension on my rock crawler. I also changed jobs, moved to Vegas, then changed jobs again and am back here in Arizona. When I moved out of state, my wife and kids stayed here in Arizona... So did my projects. I didn't really touch the Chevelle for almost 6 years. Partially from a lack of motivation, but also because of a lack of time and resources. My kids are extremely active, and now my wife is in grad school... I can't tell you what happened to me over the last month or so, but I have gotten the drive back to get this build back on track again. I've made a goal to have the engine running by this time next year. I'm hoping to have some frame modifications, and the underside of the body cleaned and painted. Since the car was on the back burner, didn't mean that I didn't keep an eye out for good deals on parts and supplies. Again because I'm cheap! I've made some progress recently, so I'm hoping to get this thread updated in the next few days with current pictures and descriptions in hopes of keeping me motivated. Now summertime here in Arizona isn't the most ideal time to work on a car in the garage, so the updates for the next few months will be a little sparse.

[Deserttaco]

Alright.. So fast forward 6 years and my buddy with the machine shop called me and said, "Hey, your engine mounts are done"... So I went down and picked them up. They were about 80% done, so I set them on my work bench for a few weeks. There is a spot on the engine mounts that needed to be recessed into the mounts, and 28 holes to drill and tap. I wanted the mounts to be adjustable so if I needed to move the engine forward or back, I could do it easily. I really wanted it done at the machine shop, because I don't really have the tools to line everything up to make the holes straight, but figured that it took over 5 years to get them done the first time, I didn't want to wait any longer... One night a few weeks ago, I walked by the mounts sitting on my work bench and decided that I needed to finish them myself. (again, This isn't a space shuttle....). So I set up my drill press, and went to town drilling the holes as straight and evenly spaced as possible. I got all of the holes drilled After breaking 5 taps cutting the threads, I was finally done! I test fit them onto the engine and frame with the headers and starter installed to make sure there was clearance:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/4tbiGPvaNwa7murnVQWjbJDYH2hHC943NRql9da5-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/Icu8kbNYDbNKbQIc6ILqfkyWJFdSlYGLI2ob9ZCD-1.jpg

I liked the fitment, so I pulled the engine after they were tacked in.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/ZsumS6GIrS8KjzVTDVajYFkRoVBL0ra3UuaAbrZm-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/n3acgPElerurLDI4p1BAjsrOZv7KZz78mqCScj_i-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/gjIBdzcdQwFbIc4GGTwdJN_QA4uENiyZ5WZcSw24-1.jpg

So now that my engine location was finalized... It was time to get the transmission tunnel figured out. In order for me to set the transmission height, I needed to set my rideheight to make sure the driveline angles were ok. My car came with a 12 bolt that I was not planning on using, it's got a welded tube, missing spider gears, one of the shock mounts was repaired badly at one point. A few years ago I scored a nice Moser 9 inch with a junk yard 3rd member from ebay a few years back, so I removed the 12 bolt and installed the 9 inch... I didn't get any pictures of that....

- - - Updated - - -

So the transmission tunnel has really been a big concern for me for some time. When I cut up the GTO and dropped it off at the scrap yard, I cut out the transmission tunnel from it. I figured that it was the right price... it already fit around the transmission, and it is a solid piece... It's been kicking around my garage floor for more than 6 years now, so it was finally time. I did an initial cut to remove as much of the floor as I could (on the GTO tunnel) to make it a little lighter. I also drilled out all of the spot welds that the GTO used for bracing as well as the extra brackets and crap. I also spent a bit of time removing the factory sound barrier and repairing the shifter hole (remember the drivetrain was pushed back 6 inches in the GTO and the shifter mangled the opening a bit...)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/5GrnyH7Mab70h0SWIVByWS_RHNcGrc5N5t2MwErS-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/vJjO5itMZMmiBXq5ED3E8Biv4xcUGFd9cz6RRIj_-1.jpg

My first real test fit.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/Q48Mkb8xszlRCo1gCe1hHyGSBVsW5J_2ttfa0V_j-1.jpg

So I removed more of the original Chevelle floor. you'll notice that the output yoke of the transmission is pointed directly at that floor brace. The brace was left intact for now so I didn't ruin the structural integrity of the floor.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/UgPJIfW6ZJKaL0wHYxqinl7DtevaKmRncEoCL8Zf-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/4JknbUHNzUduvM5EywNYGTAeX5dE8gnyuC_vaiWd-1.jpg

So I spent some time filling in the some of the holes that weren't going to be used. I again started to get bound up and stressing about how I was going to marry the two pieces and make it not look like crap... originally I was going to butt weld the two pieces, but in my experience that never really works as well in reality as it does in my head... I then had an epiphany and decided that I'd overlap them and spot weld them... Now I'd like the car to be/stay as rust free as possible, so I wanted to ensure that water intrusion wouldn't be an issue so I had to figure out a way to get the GTO tunnel "Under" the Chevelle floor while still leaving the factory Chevelle braces in place... So I used some Vice Grips and just folded the Chevelle floor back enough to allow me to slip the GTO tunnel in place. This took LOTS of trial and error to get the two to fit together.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/yr5A5kMzkPFSiUNedLdZvpngpQgyGoFN7KwsK6RQ-1.jpg

In the above picture you see the split I had to cut in the GTO tunnel to drop the tunnel down enough to get the shifter through the hole, but still allow the tunnel enough room for the driveshaft to move up and down without hitting.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/2sZ5UKNmwvhRedBxfnreq201a9I0q2p6lgQfYsIV-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/vWxJFikfEDS7LGuzoHHjBnjaFE7s0sXXtQEZ0Vfe-1.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

Here it is with the GTO shifter boot.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/CXPeBhvO9EC2Na1m0SDxTMvc6zvPMbLg4ZKOnUrX-1.jpg

so I got out the MAPP gas torch, and some Harbor Freight body hammers and went to town. I am just worried about the top side for now, and will finish the bottom side after I separate the body and chassis.
.https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/pNT0uxr_VUkjaWsvMJisZ3V56XsaBKZEDX8S_5o5-1.jpg

We tried to follow the contours of the metal as best we could. Actually I am extremely happy with the way that this turned out.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/i1lp7eEkXQD9ODfInavdxYkJv12o_HsA83rQ0Iym-1.jpg

there were a few spots where we had to draw the GTO tunnel out to meet the Chevelle floor.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/yXMMsPDY0KaWIB5lTb1cbPO5MDCQH0bNPwYoNdaO-1.jpg

but with some creative placement of some screws and holes we were able to draw the two pieces together.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/aHc8xORxq4VlZabuoSL2yGlqEkiZCGmH5HhCvppe-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/zsMIZrT6q2PxakRqIKvhKv_RW2mCqY7gF3EOEfn3-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/EpAwZkZiCmOZnX2nmY4sTWQXhutADDsHAUDmE37f-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/v8E8xL4yLd7H8Pv8FOXtT8ECN_UELik2aTfKyV6t-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/iZe9wMIIRYILvPHL28lrb5wnrjMKNkpOayF9vJG4-1.jpg

[Deserttaco]

Then a little work with the torch and hammer to bring them nice and tight. (And yes, that's the same kid in the first post of the thread that was behind the wheel...)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/0ZuEVwU66VWSOY4kMYr042kDYSsbhrDD1TC2tWnB-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/DVKCDOMq4osQoGF7pALYS1pk4OF8FeYKKnQFXJvs-1.jpg

Then "Tack" both pieces together. We did that for almost all of the rest of the tunnel. The largest gap we have right now is about 1/16-1/32 or so. Once I get the body off of the chassis, We'll get that cleaned up and finished.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/BSXU3vIMtj3tucWymgPRcxNG_9PownyEAigqvFhy-1.jpg


Once I was happy with that, I decided to move onto mocking up the cowl with the GTO HVAC, and Pedals.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/SzU_Hkh0K0rat7BNynZjGjStwNPZmXazBqoEeN_g-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/Jl_b9pfhLnobAQEUGbLuGUdy93S1ohbHNZuoK_bP-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/rLM039INhYMwKHZdcx6MMOwuJuJApmea1hGkzz43-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/y7hyVki43j29BSBQhOv14b4k1BPX28rxs7Lw5S13-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/1GqwC2AAQUvei5DbSmDdfFB2QzdxfyO7PQChaCBH-1.jpg


And that's where I'm at as of today. A LOT more work needs to be done to the Cowl, then I'll move on to building a nice smooth firewall. That will probably take me through August-September to complete. Then I'll be in a position to pull the body off of the chassis and start working on the Chassis.

[Deserttaco]

So before I can go much further on the Cowl I have to figure out what to do for my windshield wipers. I want to have a completely smooth firewall, and have already removed the depression in the fire wall for the OE wiper motor. This car came with hidden wipers and I'd like to keep that. It doesn't rain much here in Arizona, so I'd like to keep them tucked under the hood, but have them available when needed.

So I have a few issues to sort out. Right now with the upper cowl set into place, the wiper linkage hits the lower cowl on both wipers, so I have three choices. I can lower the cowl, I can modify the linkages, or I can make reliefs in the lower cowl. I'll probably be a combination of all three.

Next is that the original wiper motor I had was trash. there were quite a few broken pieces, and pieces that were missing. It's also HUGE! and it's only Hi, Low, or off. I like that most modern cars have Hi, Low, and intermittent. I really liked the DSE kit, but HOLY SMOKES!!! $600!!! NOPE! and it doesn't solve my problem of mounting the motor... So I decided that I'll come up with my own. I searched around and found that many GM cars in the 90's and early 2000's had hidden intermittent wipers. So I started searching around and found a 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo at a local U-Pick-It yard, and went to go check it out. This is all that was left of the car...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Luckily the whole wiper system was untouched, so I removed it in about 15 minutes. I also grabbed about 12 inches of wiring, and the stalk from the column. I figure that the wiper motor should be brand new having been on a car here in AZ. Probably hasn't been used that much.

So I took the whole shebang up to the counter and the lady told me $50 for all of the pieces! I sad DONE! tossed everything in my van and ended up with this!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Has the hidden wiper mechanism and everything still attached.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

When I got home I searched around and found the schematic, wiring diagrams, and pinouts to make it all work. Now I just have to figure out how to make this live together with the Chevelle and GTO bodywork.

[Deserttaco]

My focus is going to be on the Cowl, and then the Firewall. The Cowl is going to be a challenge, as there are so many things that build off of it. Wipers, Pedals, HVAC, Steering, etc...

I started by bolting the GTO Cowl to the Chevelle Firewall at roughly the height I wanted it, and roughly the position I wanted it to be in.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/GlJcquoe7LPPfoUDcZt5qWMzxZNqE10tgn43OBNi-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/9FGVMYMoLpZfJ92y03MKdl84dTr4K_IncOo5lJ0o-1.jpg

I then laid the upper cowl onto the lower cowl with the windshield wipers and linkages attached There are a few issues of interference with the linkages and the arms, so out came the grinder.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/lXMfAjI193ajC92vwEuW7PWZp4FzBHqB8Y1XfLur-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/oD_CTBE283ML_oSKb6YPnqc7drPdsdshDAusSaHO-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/KOl1ObNSlSuOvCQ1vmbA2JtghJuShgzC5sKcSUAn-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/Dl1hZxbl309HrQqpPQCE4cqLwRoH9Utia5MsZT8k-1.jpg

I wanted to make sure that side to side the cowl was level, and front to back, it was angled down in the front. Right now I have about 1.5 degrees down, and perfectly level with the rest of the car. So in order to get the linkages to clear, I needed an extra .9 inches, and the linkages move forward and back during their arc, so I needed the trough to be about an inch and a half to two inches wide. So I looked around to see what I had that would fit the bill. My car came with a mild steel 2.5 inch exhaust that will be replaced with stainless anyway. and there were some nice straight runs that I could salvage.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/mtGOUPoVuOZ3Rjlp57mprQC9nyLw5nmDWoBnjXdJ-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/Eyn5iL2b3up_f26uz9HMbCae9c5rvBpKR_Sl4hYt-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/deYKjgj0moftjoJf0YD3ULfzOVbBCebMVIdVcOSl-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/eEHwYe1BSQx5L8Nhc2p7_HsPRos5euQxe1JtB9GO-1.jpg

At that point it was getting too hot and humid, so I called it a day. Next I'll be welding it up (Tacking it first and refitting to make sure that everything fits and functions), then I'll have to build the mount for the new wiper motor.

- - - Updated - - -

So after a nice vacation, I've been able to spend a little time and get this wiper system working... I built a wiring harness that will allow the GTO Stalk to talk to the Monte Carlo Wiper motor. All of the functions work although the delay needs a little work, but it does work... So I was able to utilize a little real estate in the left cowl right behind the firewall, Since my GTO lower cowl basically ends about 6 inches short of the original vertical pieces, it will let me place the Monte Carlo motor there. I had to perform some pretty extensive modifications to the trigger plate, and relocate the "Tab" that activates the park feature. I am also using the stock rubber mounts for the motor from the Monte Carlo. Unfortunately I didn't take a lot of pictures of the process... Too busy working. Oh and one more thing Engineering is HARD!!!! making all of this stuff work like it's supposed to without interfering with anything else is a chore.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/KvdNpIXk1d9C354ClgWgPNry0ZwD9Q2SSJNLDR5f-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/l3btEaapVhEPaIXp94Pk3O9qgPLkN8QR6R0bWLWT-1.jpg

Here it is all nessled under the original upper cowl (Just sitting there for now)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/itiMo5_lXNnSA7TBAtv8JKWHcFkFCRfnEi1vRCGN-1.jpg

Now I have a Dilemma with this setup in its current form. If I reattach the upper cowl as is, I won't be able to get to this wiper motor, or the linkage. I will need to have an access portal somewhere, and I'm trying to figure out if that portal should be in the upper cowl, or the firewall behind the fender, or maybe that left cowl piece... Anyway I'm open to ideas, Let me know what you guys think.

This is an image of the adjustable linkage that I made using some hardware that I had laying around from other projects. It'll let me lengthen it by almost 3/4" and shorten it by about 1/2". That way I can dial in the positions perfectly...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/5x7KtVVxzM7Yye6fcJgcDZxOV9ofxGV_9TLnOKu_-1.jpg

So here it is in all of it's glory!!! So this will be intermittent wipers, with the hidden park feature and the whole thing will be hidden in the cowl.


Just the Motor in the Cowl (https://youtu.be/OHmTiMrtsTo)

With the upper cowl on (https://youtu.be/8WXoyySakeo)

I wish there was a way to embed those videos, but I haven't been able to figure it out yet....

- - - Updated - - -

Finished up the Wiper mount and painted it.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/M6CoLPX_AcGHcVTYraR1g2lrAJyvP8boWgrHHub8-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/E4oeJtG6xBNd2cPWsLhzYQFF818Uj4pFydu4SJJp-1.jpg

Then sprayed in some weld through primer into the cowl, and attached the mounts. There is no a lot of room here, so welding I was a pain in the rear.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/FrH8sMe3Fq1GCVSkqfC9Tqe3LCc8DEWVTxhdpDZZ-1.jpg

Then I drilled a nice hole for the wiring to go through. I already have the pigtail done. This is to the left of the steering column, and you can se the door hinge bolts to the left.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/ByQcuBT3eXpeQAVv4atRCfoHlCECgtnLD7g2ZrH5-1.jpg

After I was satisfied with the wiper motor mounts, it was time to start closing up the cowl area. Keep in mind that I don't really have any sheetmetal tools besides a vise and a few body hammers... So some of this will be a little crude.... So I started with some cardboard templates, and although it changed a few times make everything fit the way I wanted, this is how it started...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/tQKREnyjj5kjTBNqMWo2mwDoG6sXEhWRUH1vgiB2-1.jpg

This is directly below the motor and attaching the GTO cowl to the Chevelle Cowl. A little final welding and smoothing.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/9lH5wfH8agZCKa0vf2Laa4DWFYND4oZS2TbD88RY-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/CG19pewPDvXEcsF44IaGoFGWLeLXWRtT29qJKAUr-1.jpg

I haven't final welded this in yet, but have painted with weld through primer. This will go in at the same time as the GTO cowl being attached to the Chevelle which will hopefully happen in the next week or two.

[Deserttaco]

Next task was to fill the hole in the Chevelle Cowl right under the windshield. I guess I got a little excited when I was cutting this all apart...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/zke4sJCw_c501AorhG2oO985LorRW7p2hUosACvm-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/ywoykYxS2A4Qr8mRx4HhXmALOyCMPWmpLswfepva-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/_wa58qAcgRMRuRxNM2XxkGfvvwqnQKd8b2gP21K0-1.jpg

Lots of compound curves, different heights, and shapes to deal with here. I ended up cutting three individual pieces and working them one at a time. Then welding them back together. This is what it ended up looking like. Not welded in just yet...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/ZZa6oXxasNzmL5CLANyNjLWs0HUmtqcfFtayKaOD-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/ntuMGkG3D5l9pFNLS9FUSLK6ip5__oSvxOmN2ob2-1.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

So I have spent a bunch of time over the last few months/years looking and searching for specific parts and pieces of the car depending on what I'm working on at that moment. Any of you who have completely torn a car apart can understand the sheer volume of parts and pieces that you have from these things. On Saturday, I had finally had enough after I spent 4 hours looking for some parts to the cowl that I removed 6 years ago, and I needed. So I started to organize my garage, and although I had grand plans, Now I just have a HUGE mess as I'm trying to sort the parts and pieces. I also found a few parts that I can get rid of because plans have changed.

While I was doing that, I decided to spend some time and do something that I've been putting off. My car is relatively rust free, and I want to keep it that way for a LONG time. So since I have the cowl off, I decided that I wanted to remove all of the surface rust from inside the cowl, and that led me to wonder what the inside of the rocker panels looked like... One thing led to another, and I borrowed my dad's flexible camera. The thing was pretty slick, but difficult to maneuver into the tiny gaps in the sheetmetal, Once I did, I had mixed emotions, because although there wasn't a ton of rust, there was a TON of crap down inside those rockers. So I first grabbed a hose and started washing out the crap. I was amazed/horrified to see all of the junk that has built up inside of the rocker panels of this car over almost 50 years. Sticks, Twigs, Leaves, Washers, Dirt, Dust, Sand, and silt all came out of the passenger side. It took me over an hour to get just clean water to flow through the rocker... After that, I wanted to see what it looked like, so back in the camera went. It was clean, and no rot, but surface rust. So I created a recirculating system to run Evaporust through the cowl and rocker panel. I used clay to plug up all of the trim holes, and the gaps in the bottom of the rocker, and a plastic bin under the rocker at the back to catch the evaporust as it exited the rocker. I plugged the hole at the bottom, and the square hole on the back side so that the rocker would "Fill up" and the evaporust would have an opportunity to get as much of the rocker as possible. This is just tubing from home depot, a couple of bins that I had around the garage, and a $20 submersible pump from Amazon. The most expensive part was the Evaporust at about $18 per gallon. and I used 3-4 gallons for the exercise, and it's all about used up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/G1UWjYPGbZvViukfdkWk9EPijrWrHIeGylTxTpZV-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/8yoB1iy_XksjTbnYlUtI5TkZY7l7rX_R_Kjl_pFX-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/RxrNdcqXAUZyb2jrxCowYN0YUkklbQ6j1R4lBymR-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/3YXORNWGvstw_LZal73O51XgThQiFfQfyujDp8dt-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/HLg6el1cD2u_1HQdG2MApwaZRuycG7wJrDba8tLq-1.jpg

It actually works pretty good, I was able to get almost all of the surface rust out of the rockers and cowl with very little effort, After that was done, I rinsed it thoroughly with water and let it air dry. Unfortunately I did find a little rot that I need to fix on the drivers side, So I have the cowl shoulder coming in later this week. I'll do my best to document that work.

- - - Updated - - -

Alright, So it's been a little while since an update. Been very busy with work and family stuff. Lost some motivation when I found the rust in the lower cowl on the drivers side where it meets the rocker. I bought the AMD panel to replace the outer cowl, but didn't want to bone over the repair... This is that perfectionist in me. Anyway, here's the current progress...

I was able to get all of the test fitting done for the GTO Cowl, and liked the fit. I epoxy primed the bottom of it, and the parts that will be hidden once installed. I left the top side bare for the moment, because I figure there's more work to be done here...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/C1LM2zHuUJJv4IN1qC4VN1ttzQ9COeSNPq4bMRFY-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/PQ6fZsQgGG1CCyw7j3HVZTBo_2tIf3HX75KM79tb-1.jpg

I also used weld through primer on all of the areas where there would be welding. I seam sealed all of the parts that were modified just in case...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/KfEV5ofSL2N3Vy74ZUS0ZH9LoCE_GppUF3y5ndeC-1.jpg

And All Welded In. Still need to finish the edges, and the sides, but it's in there solid....
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/aEUIw2bx3vWc095FpEdSc6qsl9FKT0OEsPDgBBu0-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/tEX3difFsr0XtRJxkrNnbizXQ9VqzJH6W6ygoO1f-1.jpg

Next up was to weld up the rocker trim holes...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/JAfqsBjMnhJBBdadFDCmhlIw8n43pjcdOo7v4heb-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/u4ljV5l1gMt00quk9HxHmljQiq9LlKJXRGbBromZ-1.jpg

Now that the holes were plugged, I wanted to coat the inner rocker panels with some sort of coating to keep them from deteriorating any more. Actually inside of them is pretty clean, It looks like they are galvanized... So I found this internal frame coating from Eastwood. Looks like it would foot the bill, and I really wanted it for the fogger fitting so I could get a nice 360 degree pattern. Problem is that the hose that comes with it is only about 20 inches long. I needed about 7 feet, so I purchased some tubing from amazon that was the same ID and voilà!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/MOTC_cQDbktWeoIT7YbLxtu2O0ped1jBdSKr8Wxd-1.jpg

Then attached a couple of zipties to the end of the nozzle to keep it relatively centered in the rocker panel to get even coverage, It actually worked pretty good... I'll be running a camera down the rockers before sealing them up.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/MrRqsoUjw58llUulEp7hejpnxZjAatgcAoxrJK3j-1.jpg

[Deserttaco]

Now came the fun part of repairing the rust in the lower cowl panel. Doesn't look so bad from the outside does it? No real signs of rust...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/jaPMUTUNTqo97F4ieZh38Ekc7EOPzKrZ154JKDIs-1.jpg

Just look deeper... This was a little disappointing. you can see where the evaporust ran down the sides of the cowl, but missed right under the opening....
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/f5VVHUa35PjqbelyeKNQZVm7dyf1fZnHHZZ0NBQz-1.jpg

Here you can see that part of the panel is actually missing, and the piece behind is pretty pitted....
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/VQC15gZT3_JMqxHZeMtiyIAds6ELyosgyWGPEICR-1.jpg


Now here it is after a little elbow grease, you can see my cut line. Keep in mind that this panel is double/triple layered in some places, so if you are using this as a guide, cut with care...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/J9Ub1kvCbqVD45DTOomjT_Xrxq_HsjtPjDX8XlQx-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/84ykNPXuZhMHfuqhbjnOaasOMO1UXy7CB_yRTAmd-1.jpg

I still have a little repair work to do here, but ran out of time for today...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/GQa58_7Cc1UH0WexP8kjZc770eJAywr_M1SlyOKV-1.jpg

Now here's the new piece, Made from the good metal from the removed outer lower cowl.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/JID_UiaVMloP8TyL2qDKPiTaOHOzx3enRT8hc25z-1.jpg



- - - Updated - - -

I was finally able to get back out this weekend and finish up the drivers side cowl rust repair. The damage wasn't as bad as I thought, but it was time consuming to repair. I put some more detailed pics in the body shop forum.

Here's the completed repaired, Epoxy primed cowl.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/IZuDXb22UcTJAk4c9B_wVio4vD0Pge4KzGxT726r-1.jpg

I slathered some seam sealer on everything that I welded to make sure that there weren't any pinholes, and welded the outer sheetmetal on.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/nU3w89N_q6LmQC2GAvsJRBKoydRGrlXLz8e75OOe-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/bZvTvS5RxfGZya5UAa6XJVg3uDtS5ycnefViNUGz-1.jpg


Now that that's repaired to my satisfaction... onto the firewall.... I decided to remove the old firewall at the spot welds on both cowls, and 1/2 way through the body mount braces so that I could mount the new flat firewall in it's place with as little visible welding as possible. The top rail is gone completely, so from side to side, top to bottom it'll be one solid piece of metal.// >:)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/8f714IuL3n8VakrxXZK9I3LsOUivqUR2kmmWOIJh-1.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

My Firewall started out as a flat sheet of 16 gauge steel, rough trimmed to match the old original firewall that was removed from the car. My plan is to reattach the upper cowl and butt it up to the new firewall as nice rounded edge with no lip. There was a lot of planning that went into this firewall, as I wanted to use my stock '06 GTO brakes, pedals, clutch M/C, (modified) steering column, and HVAC unit... That's a tall order, and it's taken a few months to figure it all out in a manner that works. First things first, I wanted to build a removable cover for the bell housing so that if I wanted to change the clutch or pull the transmission, I don't have to remove the engine also. It'll require the removal of the HVAC box, but I can live with that as long as I keep the hoses flexible enough to move it out of the way without breaking the AC connections. This cover has a ring that is welded to the floor, and it'll be secured with 10-32 screws (not finalized yet).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/gxrfvwpVP0lzaQK1DAYWprXESmYUt4JbC60Dfj2m-1.jpg


Sprayed a little weld through primer...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/K8nKYuctRMW6Mp1AKs_kwpFIkldCcgXbFqguDtp8-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/jgEFKbAK9_t31sLyZcMNY5KynwZhjEX4_NDp3IwL-1.jpg

Here you can see the sharpie mark where the flanged cover panel will go covering the bell housing. you can also see the GTO pedals for the brakes and clutch. The big panel to the right is the mount for the gas pedal.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/NT3bffZ_TjD9zvV3sPPjJrKu2eBYE0dcoCvpxP4P-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/pyczIYu2mEKHNMJP1cpawjt7HcIF34hZ1GGkf1JV-1.jpg


I decided to use a level clamped to the firewall and the lower cowl to keep everything as straight as possible, so any body work would be minimal...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/xgQis5mLXfE8i8E_fJwciZBagVXXJasu2NHIn1qI-1.jpg


This picture was pre-welding, and I had a bit of anxiety before burning this piece in..... In this picture you can see a small fraction of the GTO firewall grafted into my fabricated one. The same for the clutch mount.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/s46wPmglxSR5wopaWW8DZIVE1qjcBbTa_7wur7Ig-1.jpg


Here is the ring for the cover I build for the Transmission..
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/7i3T64HXH8H7C3MogFQkGafo53naVrnx_o3NouPU-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/oEcTg4gY74LzFfSaFrDeoazOuuaEDQmsKiDpS615-1.jpg

And here is the completed Firewall. The two brackets you see there above the transmission tunnel are there to mount the GTO HVAC to. I will need to modify the heater and AC lines so that they come out of the firewall under the fender so they are hidden. That'll be for another day.

The hole you see below the brake booster mounts is for the steering shaft. The stock GTO steering shafts diverts down to a steering rack and has this really nifty aluminum bulkhead cover, but by turning that cover 180 degrees, it mounts perfectly flat on the firewall so the shaft is supported by a bearing. I'll try to get pictures of that here this week.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/Jcg4HZbGLAonsrUtJIQi7KIfG6SrwGLpFjZguHYE-1.jpg

[Deserttaco]

Finished up a bunch of odds and ends today. Getting closer and closer to getting the upper cowl back on. Over the last few days, I've been De-Rusting the top cowl in a bath of Evaporust... Only I didn't have enough to do the whole thing, So I did it in three parts. One day for each end, and one day for the center section. I have a cheapie throw away blow up pool I got from Amazon for cheap as my container. I tell you, this stuff is great! saves me a ton of labor, and all I have to do it go over it really lightly with a wire brush to get the Schmoo off. This should be done tomorrow, so I can start modifying it to fit the smooth firewall, and the cutout for the wiper motor. Hoping to get this mocked up for install tomorrow...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/PYKx15eCKbDuPZPurhRF4vg9t5y_OXd0HoUKeYmI-1.jpg

Did a bunch of grinding on the lower cowl to get it ready for paint and seam sealer. I'm also trying to prep everything else that will no longer be accessible once the upper cowl gets welded back on again... The GTO HVAC opening for fresh air will be partially exposed, and the lip for the fresh air vent wasn't a whole lot higher than the surrounding sheetmetal, so I solved two problems with one piece. This will help channel any water away from the opening, and also shield the opening from water, leaves, and crap from above coming through the upper cowl I rounded the edges, and added some supports to the front to keep everything nice and tight. There is also a nice screen mesh filter in there to keep big chunks of crap out. The vertical pieces are bent in to increase airflow while still keeping crap out. I also welded the firewall in completely, so it's ready to receive the upper cowl.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/ftvdKUN0qtLWrnwtWHFwuS0NhXlw1vCASNDtG0AG-1.jpg

This little piece took me a few hours to make, It's actually a piece of sheetmetal from the original firewall... Right size, right thickness, and it seemed like a good idea to use it here. You can see the supports and the rounded edges. That dark grey crap in the background is just grinding dust.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/Jklerw6GiCvqTjJOR7FEZYR5CDdRJppn9rt27bKX-1.jpg

Another view. Still need to do a little grinding on this part, Throw on some seam sealer, then paint.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/ngoK5u53j_jNbJm5VBDMm7ZY6hD2qmYwjrnhkfA7-1.jpg

I was also able to mock up the stock Monte Carlo (70-72) Dash that I picked up several years ago, and a craptacular dash pad today. Everything looks great!!! I'm going to have to modify the dash for the HVAC, and the console that I'm going to put in it. I will also need to modify the bracing on the dash around the column, because the mount is very different. Everything else tucks neatly behind the dash.

Tomorrow and the next few days, I'm hoping to get the Defroster vents completed, and the upper cowl on. Hopefully, get the dash bracing modified. Then my plan is to get the seats mounted... I've changed directions on the seats too... I found me some -04 BMW 3 series convertible seats. They have an integrated seat belt and go much lower than the magnum seats... I'll eventually get them recovered, but for now they'll stay black leather...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/1_MXdyGvSGBi2P1Ldvr3RQIS3zGxz1vFSHQbXtlT-1.jpg

So here's the under side of the upper cowl after the 3 day bath in the Evaporust...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/yqzmp1AgjiHpcwd8JFqiJGfqOoKblQwop2HSBXEd-1.jpg

This was my planned cut. This will keep all of the hardware out of the way of the mechanism (hopefully)...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/RSsQKeCofPGr6KJO9drHgffZ5oDIRtC18HTat5EE-1.jpg

Here's a preview of what I have done with the removable panel, It still needs some clean up work, but it's pretty close to being there.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/Z8vzLXGO81Ouow6qSD8M0SXYSlSQ8ab_iPZyojae-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/1Xx6jLTXyvdNmjyTt_0UV1DHsFRAkEQ1CCgk_1mC-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/8MCYts01bLPTWwJqskuD8vVv3YQmYvv4xMt45CBP-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/yqscRR9d0jplK9XWEfZbBLmhKGbX3TuUIZh_2ZGQ-1.jpg


Here it is with the wiper motor and linkage in place.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/aKayT7NTWTatxqQuYz7mODN3ZC5X6g3rR9oXENKi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/D80XwmZoBXN9fhIzpQqMfcoR7qnjmhr0fjAfgoiS-1.jpg

[Deserttaco]

Last day of vacation from work, got just a bit more done. It'll probably be a little while before I can update further. It's nice to see some of these projects coming to a close. This firewall, and Cowl has been a huge drain on me, and I have actually dreaded working on it because I at times felt in WAY over my head... That being said, It's turning out nicely and I can't be happier with the results. Here are the photos from yesterday and today. I was able to prime, seam seal, then prime again the entire cowl, the bottom of the upper cowl, and my bolt in piece. All of the holes have been drilled, and tapped. The upper cowl has been reattached permanently, and my bolt in cover is reattached. The only things left to do on this part of the project, is to trim the junction on my bolt in cowl piece and the new smooth firewall, then weld in the windshield channel. Then this will be DONE!!!


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/U8fmt3w6L5DB6G7L5P88FFD27cejkgzOAYjHYp4a-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/FLdnYnx_uW1xroNoZ3bZLLw7m6IAVSrB91sKXJ3a-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/w2uqMY1U1QoU8LetMCGbj9UskMWAVW1O_gw3XWSa-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/Nkvn8WiK7p4U3KH_yVOaBo8QqYlQYukmyZgNLbhu-1.jpg

Pay no attention to the hardware, I was using any 10-32 screw I could get my hands on.. They will all be replaced with some nice black headed hardware so it'll blend in a bit more...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/WZcppBCSrAWJxEU6wTTXYUCAtXY3cS3ZqQ_SjeDl-1.jpg

I tested everything and the wiper linkages are able to be installed and removed, the motor is servicable, and nothing touches/rubs during manual cycling of the wiper system.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/KSodw5e34y3QNE4dW5UMq6abBK__kdvBsqYWhYw0-1.jpg

And just for fun, I set the seats, Dash, Dashpad, and console in the car to see what it looks like... I'm liking what I see.... :)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/sTK7AyDKqF0izIGrbx8eGQu2FM12dWgLmyxaRz5R-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/fpb1rwiqwW283Z5ji_Iy0Uk_I0nTLL4N_ZVIHPKM-1.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

So what an AWESOME Day!

I woke up (without any sort of alarm) this morning at 5:30AM. The sun was just coming up, and I checked the temperature on my phone and it showed 77 degrees... I decided to get up and get moving. The rest of the house was pretty quiet with my wife and kids still sleeping. I told my dad that I'd probably get started around 7AM or so, and since it was so early I decided on hand tools only (don't want to piss off the neighbors any more than I already do...)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/mfhR5T0Dx3sM0mljgA27hyK1GYxxKkM9KrsdZgb1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/HYBIlGbTnP4564aXYPPXPCiVdFSLMD7GLfGPiOxw-1.jpg


That's right at 5:30 AM it was 85 degrees inside my garage, so the fans came out, and every door was opened to try to cool it off as quickly as possible...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/7xfi5EvtXM19AjsXULV5Z2anvzLcnY4Xden4IWsw-1.jpg

Started out pulling the engine and transmission out, it was really only held in by the engine mounts, and the transmission was just sitting on the crossmember.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/oFWtq4ksnAGjJ6_lUoWsdbEY7A5DfLP1ZfDsvQz1-1.jpg

So here's what I was left with. I found it was interesting that this thing only had one ground strap... on the passenger side cowl body mount... Shouldn't there be more?

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/iok9hMjv5wtsnn1rTH7TkFKmbp2RWhJUbFsjCyIa-1.jpg

You guys from the Northeast and Midwest may want to skip over this next picture.... Not too bad after almost 50 years. Every bolt came out nice and easy. Only the drivers side front cowl bolt showed any real signs of corrosion. One interesting thing.. The center body pucks did not have any bolts through them, in fact, the one on the passenger side didn't even have a hole for a bolt in it. The drivers side did... Should this have a bolt? Any ideas if the nut for the body bolt is present? I didn't look before I put the body down...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/SlxGZPnIzk0CGx9JYpNgaD3nuJE3UQy78B8ncyWl-1.jpg

So after sifting through all of the body/frame separation threads on the board, I cobbled a few ideas together and I decided to use my engine hoist to lift the body. I have a few folding steel saw horses that I used to support the body once separated. I started from the back end because I figured it'd be the heaviest. I used chain from the engine tilter and ran a few bolts through the bumper mounts then some rope that I've had in the garage for a few years to connect the two to the hoist. I was a little concerned when we started, but it really did work out fantastic.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/VbQiC22k4_Id2sT7zi6bywDpn2Hpo3gzZ0pAS4fe-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/psesitwBPHTxBBz7xFtG2O9asx4Bh_1sty9UpGNe-1.jpg

Then I ran some rope through the fender mounts on the firewall and did the same thing. I just threaded a 4X4 between the framerails

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/h9fIZca_1ovsguhziTXLYazLkH6KbocaO1UAIqa7-1.jpg


Then we pulled the rear tires off, and rested the rear diff on a jack, We wheeled the frame out from the body. We lifted the body up again, then set the front on some shorter jackstands, then the back down onto the 4X4 on the wheel dolly's. Then the front. So now it's basically on the ground, mobile with one hand.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/b0BOHO5HZ_dLgfwBeFLg8fySbvmFcrToMuX5AhKl-1.jpg

Then after we had the body tucked away, we started stripping the frame to get it ready to go to the blaster... Took about 90 minutes to tear it down. The front springs were a little sketchy, as there's a ton of stored energy there. We used some rachet straps, the shocks as a limiter (actually worked really good, and I'm not planning on reusing the shocks anyway), Loosened both ball joints so the crown of the nut was off of the threads, but the rest of the stud was still in the threads. With a very slow careful hand, and we had a floor jack about 4 inches below the control arm to catch it. The ratchet strap went through the spring, arm, and around the frame a few times to keep the spring captured on the arm. All in all, it worked really well. I'm planning on keeping these stock springs, as a starting point for whatever I put in here. so when we were done with disassembly, I was left with this. If the blaster was open today, I'd have taken it there. I found a local place about 5 miles away that will blast the bare frame with no suspension for $150 (No coating or paint afterwards). I think that it's worth my time to not do it myself, so Monday it'll go off to blasting...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/NzMGBJdr8YJYIECEi054fqTW_zjlznIQ5oQDkHhp-1.jpg

We finished cleaning up, moving cars around, and putting all of the crap away by about 11AM. By the time we finished it was about 95 degrees in the garage, so we wrapped up for the day. Hopefully by next weekend, I'll have a clean, blasted frame sitting in the same spot, ready for the Hellwig Frame bracing that is queued up...

[Deserttaco]

Scored a relatively inexpensive Rotisserie this morning. Drove up to Cottonwood AZ (About a 2 hour drive each way), I stumbled across this on Craigslist about two weeks ago, and was asking the owner about measurements, as it looked like the pivot height was fixed in the photos. It's only about 40 inches from the bottom to the center of the pivot. The day I was going to head up to look at it (last weekend), he sent me a message that he just sold it to someone in Colorado... This week, I was going to just plunk down the cash to buy a new one, and it showed back up on Craigslist, so I emailed the guy, and said that I was still interested. We arranged to meet this morning. Super nice guy, had a Shelby Cobra in the garage. I measured, and figured that I could pretty easily modify this to suit my needs, so a little cash was exchanged, and we loaded this thing into my Minivan... Yes.. My parts hauler is a minivan...

Anyway, This thing is pretty beefy, It looks like the main tube, and caster mounts are made of 1/4 inch wall tubing. There's a 19 foot spreader bar (cut in half), and it's got all of the pieces I need to make it work on my car. I want to make some mods to it before the body goes onto it. The first is making the height adjustable, so I ordered two hydraulic rams (8 ton), some 1000lb casters (8 of them), and I'll need to pick up some steel next week to make the mods.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/Tc2YwMsp2rsfNzRc18Y_HM6CB74aNsFeBIxq2Z8S-1.jpg

By the time it's all said and done, I should have about $500 into this thing, and a weekend of time cleaning, modifying and painting it... I feel much better about that then dropping over 1K on a pretty new one... Plus I can take that $500 saved, and buy more go-fast parts, or suspension parts...

Weather is getting hot here in Phoenix, so I spent a few hours working on getting this thing setup the way I want. I don't think the Casters and Hydraulic's will be here until at least the end of the week or next week, So I was out in the garage at about 7AM starting work.

Started with this:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/al8obSxndWnTMqZTyUghbmLj0btYur8Vu4ZP_Kb7-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/l4GQra_oYM_Bkpw0lP5vM6FTypHuChKGxvY8cDZ8-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/f81nV4Oen1F9In2VnFjxhnQGwf2CJiKEJcAzUDaf-1.jpg

and
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/1YfO4XFM3aVF061PpHOkOW8rFhJLr7yFry8JMJ9n-1.jpg

I started soaking the body mounts in some Evaporust, and will get the main pivots in there as soon as the mounts are done. I love this stuff... Then I spent the better part of about 3 hours cleaning, sanding, and grinding the steel so that there was no more rust. This thing was bare metal, and was left outside in the dirt, so the bottom piece was the worst, The top pieces cleaned up pretty darn quick.

Next was to chop off the main pivot. I started with my chop saw, and after blowing the breaker about a dozen times, I broke out the sawzall. The main upright tube is 3"X3" 3/16" wall tubing. The main spreader bar was 19 feet of 2.5"X2.5" 3/16" tubing that I cut in half to fit it in my van yesterday to bring home.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/bpNQDs1zDwzDCTv_IJ9EZ9lJPOnaup95rLh79oL7-1.jpg

Here it is with the main pivot removed...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/GcssRcUz1BX5JRBOpueu4YjX9HYzJDkHqjl_R7G4-1.jpg

This is a length of the 2.5"X2.5" 3/16 Wall tubing to sleeve the inner main support. This is 35"
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/fBIxsp56aPd6cOsJk0t59_QMjnjdScM2nIPoVPgJ-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/5GMepDpqi_RZScYNoLcU0wdGmdGPDS31ldjOVjKl-1.jpg


Now with the main pivot reattached to the new sleeve:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/iLmUaDD58O7GkdHieMpBqpFNr5Bm9wwE9XE51NrO-1.jpg

And now with the height adjustable an additional 2.5 feet or so...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/ZAB3F34D2UYhIQVBrlHspZgOtli5y2EM4OBRbEHA-1.jpg

I used a few cans of satin black Krylon to make sure this thing doesn't rust again... Then it got pretty freaking hot, so I shoved it all away. I'm hoping the Casters and Rams will be here by Friday, so I can fully assemble this thing. I'll also need to get some 2"x2" Square tubing to make the main spreader bar adjustable to fit both the frame and the body shell. I still have some cleaning to do on the spreader, and the down tubes... But all In all, I'm pretty excited to have this thing almost operational after just a few hours and a lot of elbow grease.

I didn't take a lot of pictures along the way, but I wanted to document the modifications I made to this rotisserie. In hopes that it'll inspire someone to build one, or modify it to suit their needs...

The first order of business was to get some decent wheels for this thing. Since I'm a build to last kind of guy, I got some 1000lb (Each) casters from amazon. They ran me about $120 shipped to my house. They are 5" X 2". I was going to get the plates to bolt the casters, but decided to just weld them. So I ground off the galvanizing and welded them on. I placed the welds where they'd be easy enough to cut off should one of them need to be replaced.

Then I drilled holes in the main post so that I can pin the post about every 4-5 inches or so.

I mounted an 8 TON cylinder to both ends,

After everything was together, I found a couple things that I wanted to improve upon. The steel that was used all has 1/8 inch gap, so It's 3X3 3/16 wall, and 2.5X2.5 3/16 wall tubing. The same with the main pivot point, So when you stack the tollerances, it was a little too sloppy for my liking. I ended up plating the main pivot with some 18 gauge sheetmetal, and made the pivot nice and smooth with no slop. Then I made pinch bolts for all of the movable parts, This will allow movement, but make it so I can tighten everything up when I have the car/frame on the rotisserie. I also made an adjuster out of allthread so that I can adjust the center of Gravity easily without taking a bunch of crap apart, or getting jacks.

About the only thing I have left to do to this thing is to paint it... Well, I finished one of the towers, Still have another that needs to be finished up (should take 2-3 more hours)...

Anyway, here are the pictures...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/P4i3pEWeVh6VoOSv3LX4pRDu4PZNbHVIP4bvSbUv-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/Aa2t52CPgjhKuNUbu2aISEzLC_UgYeL0HVcloEuJ-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/nMPQBRuQvncVah47MvgxN45duj4kOed1R0L9vQLT-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/xP6muoEj80oO9JNYS3jeb1CdfKzYijMFIcPRYESj-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/VuR_tsgQGmRNQgmonRWk1q2qDiY11rOd0j6cI2hr-1.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

And this last post will bring me current where the project is today...

Frame back from the blaster.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/jtdOEXnhLeXTdB2t82tfeuCZBgpi0N3qBo7ELAOX-1.jpg

It amazes me the weld quality on these frames... It sure makes me feel a whole heck of a lot better about my welding skills after looking over this thing...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/HeHIlWS6gSSUsK7TsJGaKZ653MWGP3pxKAH9P4Zi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/ND5Kp7ZPjjqWeDdNoTk0bQdVBYBieRIBdEjSOhdN-1.jpg

Only one real spot with any pitting was right under the evaporator box, I'm guessing the box drained onto this area of the frame when the A/C was running?
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/y90XXp2OLt2LnkoeMrL3Mp7A8f48zjRsBZ_3yUCr-1.jpg


This is one of those moments that I'm a little nervous about proceeding. I know what I have to do, I have all of the parts and supplies needed to perform the task, but I worry about screwing this up. It's been pretty hot lately, so it'll probably take me a few weekends to get the FrameFX bracing installed. But I'll hopefully start this weekend...

Updates to follow

[David LaBuda]

Awesome project! I love exploring salvage yards and finding ways to make late model parts work.

[MOREHORSEPOWER]

Wow you have a ton of work into it already !! Look good !!

Keep them pics coming !!

[raustinss]

Wow...i like some of you engineering skills , keep up the good work. Love it

[Deserttaco]

I took Monday and Tuesday off of work because the weather here in Phoenix is only supposed to be 98 on Monday and 96 on Tuesday... Yesterday I finished the last little bit on the Rotisserie except paint (which I'm not sure I'm going to worry about...) Anyway I wanted to start the process of getting the Hellwig FrameFX bracing kit installed. So the first thing I wanted to do this morning before I started cutting and welding is to make sure the frame is square and level.

The first thing I wanted to do was make sure that my frame was straight and level in both directions. The Frame FX installation instructions has the OE measurements, but it's a little hard to read, so I used my chassis service manual for a much clearer picture. I took measurements to make sure everything was in spec, and the frame was not twisted. I set the frame up on sawhorses, and leveled it from to back, and side to side. (My measurements were 52 5/16" across the front cowl body mounts, 53" between the middle body mounts, and 48" between the mounts by the LCA mounts. Both diagonals were 78 1/2".)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/HBMD6LYygUOuiynL8RgqRPVLFT3Jx6bMeBbdOxlJ-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/yEf8CmhlJhniGB0RFtNMNrW2Pe0I6t2XMX5XPVIr-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/0lWOGfQzJ2QOxaI9UW5QKOqVgjJ0dFgSH96ZJG8d-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/G_28Mik0TtscJqw06zEpW__eus4zwxQgnWaoYLBk-1.jpg



So next step was to remove the bracing between the upper and lower part of the C-Channel frame in the middle. The Instructions tell you to do this in several steps, I did everything at once. I have heard some guys have a hard time getting this cut straight, and that makes the next step a little more difficult, so I wanted to make sure that I only removed as little metal as possible. So from work I had this really fancy laser level, and I decided that I'd use it to project a nice straight line for my cut. In order to keep it projecting where I needed it to go, I used my rotisserie and make sure that it was nice and level, the laser level uses a magnet, so it stuck right to it....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/if8_bTloKbmGG0scdMpTtcDsVb2KNMi_dAMvrFe4-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/AhDeK87J1aHi8XKAndZP91PL1XZW6dbCRmZ3cy7i-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/BrjldUN_n1xiIxu7BT6X17f9oL9eXI7M5wNVRhGN-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/qIYqaydbBOPmyEG0_DkQcwc76OaSA1uUBWXwI2CN-1.jpg

This gave me a nice clean cut line.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/RAcUzGUhZsiv4GYSyxMgfFHO5tphIiPOt4cF_uNJ-1.jpg

One thing I really wanted to avoid with this project was warping my good condition frame by getting a little overzealous with the welds... So I decided that I'd start by marking the frame every two inches. This will give me the ability to stagger my welds and still keep it looking nice. Effectively stitch welding.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/eYF64D1afvhxms0xl9HIQCr_4WDnxQmaZtJfeBSL-1.jpg


Then I made my first cut on the drivers side of the frame... Gotta love those factory welds...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/4LGtdeylWWLg_dpVQN5sOzg_hNO50r6sQI1sPCep-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/LPyh2sDbuNA8WBBqKRV6K2kit9qDGaQXg34noS83-1.jpg

I cut the bracket right at the weld on the bottom, so the frame itself is untouched, and the weld will just need to be ground down a little on the bottom to allow all of the pieces to sit nice and flush.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/tbJXQ4ex95nTG2blHCiTFV88qCea4GUphW3pTLfN-1.jpg

I sprayed the back side of the plates, and the inside of the frame where these plates are going to be installed with some weld through primer. I would like this frame to outlast me...

The top plate was tacked to the upper and lower rail, making sure that it was level to the ground (as was the frame), so this piece will be nice and square.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/PuobcmMRGKoGtxGL2AclWomlinWctj9PGiLnqw6Z-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/AdT4nuTqoA85S4F7Q0A3XxW1hY598f6ksG99wSxM-1.jpg


I was not so lucky with the passenger side of the frame. Apparently someone in the last 47 years used the frame as a jacking point, and bowed the heck out of the bottom rail, so the plate didn't fit.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/iQZRaab_UHqGS3jfj2e5jXaAUBdi5Hq07KuLytV1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/w38sC_uZSEzms9xkB3xF7Z4tadsQvXP9wuVwupX3-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/ucgRao1SYfW8sIdJ2L1cDCnukSPApJTvKz4FNUWm-1.jpg


In this picture you can see the 3/8" or so that the lower portion of the frame is bent up. The plate is square and true on the other side...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/bDnwF0Gj4FHwnpaR91tgTyKW8SIzHD54Bm8auxpr-1.jpg

Here is that same lower frame have a little work with a sledge hammer, 2X2" Tubing, some pretty big C-Clamps, and some Cresent Wrenches.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/JCr23P2XEd1lirIrWsghcwLjiQSXGXMavBg2Xqie-1.jpg

And the passenger side reinforcement plate is tacked in place...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/sT6V5NLx8KzjC6mEOG5E8iOvrwXN8hJ5aBgReTqs-1.jpg

It started to get pretty hot, so that's where I ended for today, I'll be back at it again tomorrow.

[raustinss]

My frame was used in the same Manor.... Lol oh screw it just jack anywhere

[Deserttaco]

Tried to start pretty early today. Wasn't supposed to be "AS" hot as yesterday, but it turned out to be a VERY humid day. I tried leaving my side door open with a fan blowing cool(er) outside air into the garage, but alas... at 6:00 this morning, it was still 95 degrees inside my garage. I was never the less pretty grumpy for a while.

I continued where I left off yesterday by fully welding the plates where the center body cushion (Mine will be a full blown mount as I purchased the convertible supplement body mounts, and the nut is already there...)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/kbr8fH845etvFXOpodGrmlEIQhqa8PxVSOZAYNkg-1.jpg

Since the body was tucked away, It took me about an hour to move cars around, move all of the crap around that I stacked around the car, and I was able to lift the body up high enough to get the bare frame under the body to mock up for the extra mount. I used my engine hoist for the front with just some 1/2 inch rope that I've had kicking around the garage for about 15 years.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/DcPlL6EJTlo55FxAkp1P6NhUh2ecLgaj2vJppAYK-1.jpg

I used one of my newly finished Rotisserie lifts to lift up the rear, This worked really good, and allowed me to stabilize the rear and prevent any rotation or movement by locking out the movements.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/Ws_2jc4G7vQMVCLxiNPaZ_0RFo1HAay113bdOai3-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/tAvpc6lN8ygPRis0JPXxYC70ADb7KLd2dHy_vEA5-1.jpg

This is just two pieces of chain bolted to the bumper mounts inside the trunk, then bolted to the arm of the rotisserie.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/NtfVF1w6rInpMCafn3gJUkoN8ilNN8NOGwmAtBtG-1.jpg


So this is the body mount where the coupes generally have a cushion. My car did not have your typical captive nut, As you can see, there is almost like a nutsert here... It extends about 1/2" down from the brace. The hole right at the top of the picture will become an additional body mount.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/KzkQaHpYCYH1F8Fyl9IKSOElAratwKNSIRB6ayXV-1.jpg

Here is that same hole prepped for welding (not to worry, I'll clean off the rest of the floor at a later date. I didn't have any interest in laying on my back scraping all of the crap off of the bottom of the floor...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/HEzAtpGGNOCcdq7kFyPNf3qwhYtVPb9HJKFLb16r-1.jpg

These are the weld in "Nuts" from the Hellwig kit. The one on the left, I cleaned up, and prepped for welding. If I have one complaint about the kit (and It's a minor bitch, because this kit is excellent...) it's that some of the pieces have areas of surface rust on them, so I spent a little time cleaning that rust off prior to installing anything. What you can't see in the picture is that from cutting these out, there were dingleberries on almost all of the edges, and I wanted these to sit nice and flush with the floor brace, so I buzzed the edges with my grinder...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/HeeqxZw80WhVfs07nfBU29j8b8S4F4nhZFy3nq0e-1.jpg

Pic of the dingleberries...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/VgVsbYyuKjn2qAI3aGNZ6nklc3lUaSaaMvbg1A0A-1.jpg

So here's the cleaned up frame and the Helwig brace after grinding the weld down so the body mount would sit nice and flush.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/y85TVIea5F73ahHLunoJUWbnGcBKfAEqJKX6Za3N-1.jpg

Little bit of weld through primer...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/laMGJlBMrLLFd9RPNcLDMSxWdrlOA2RX8onbcJ08-1.jpg

And the new body mount nutserts tacked in place. They'll be fully welded after I get the body on a rotisserie. Welding flat on my back is no bueno... (I could/would do that if I did not have my rotisserie)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/ghtyVwF50e0ZveQYd6W4dNxZ_0MthrE2cQSl26Wb-1.jpg

Now comes the part that I dreaded the most... I wasn't sure how this was going to go, but all in all it only took about 25 minutes to reunite the body and frame. We started by moving the frame under the body while it was suspended by the hoists. Then set the frame on Jack Stands and got it as close as possible to the body without actually touching it. We then installed the new polyurethane body bushings and started all of the bolts.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/ZxavynnZQz93J5hlWtUHKmkOWf9KzQhcVBGJbX8K-1.jpg

Pro Tip: Use a 5/8" OD dowel rod as seen in the picture below at this location, and right in front of the drivers side LCA there is another spot. The holes that these dowels go into is round, but there are two slits 180 degrees apart. There are corresponding holes in the body mounts/floor braces. I was lucky enough to have two old bottle jack handles that were 5/8" and allowed me to quickly and easily line up the body and frame.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/RoNSXgtPfFPH86wMBcd4P8qqXM_hDG1LsFQQSQA_-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/topNBQKDWhzetjzB0kl85K6DkQ4ItA2p1928RoEu-1.jpg

Here is the assembled Hellwig body mount and frame stand.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/kNoiS795QxAmnAkYjFtC1vqYoDyiUGR8x6KKkuPr-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/XrP6lo95OEoSsuhlzjtr3g6MwpoTQqNEDnvvPNQy-1.jpg


Here's the mount lined up to the body, and the bracing that I welded in yesterday. Here's another Pro-Tip. Grind the bottom weld of the original frame brace. If you don't, the brace will not sit flush, and you'll have to take it apart again grind then reassemble before welding.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/Yy_YcKfg7KSbAxSugtM3r5QcVH6wRgBfXnClqmvO-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/B04gp3E68NpYqhY91V4US36QIKWbb2vjerb_oCR_-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/ikqi5xsiUJvipJv0zYJhGYSBTga_8s_QHFNXP734-1.jpg

See what I mean???

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/WO53j2D7hOb_OfUb2Z3aEhHHIRZeX4tislGWKmIV-1.jpg

More better....
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/aAlQNMHH8cB3UAiA7CN25vc94hd7tkAY28ThkO1r-1.jpg

And the frame stands tacked in place...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/dbYnchFpcjJxAI0jby2rzFmJipMry_rHo6wGfK88-1.jpg

Now you get to take everything back apart again... Remove all of the body mounts, Drop the frame, and set the body aside again. The rest of the kit is welded off of the car. So this is the first test of the rotisserie since I finished it earlier this week. We used the body cushions and mounted the frame upside down in hopes of getting the COG as close to the pivot as possible. We can't quite get there, but we're pretty darn close.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/EwZmYKXHtqnl3DZPe16uBGcOGw_VOUIMByNxDAov-1.jpg

[Deserttaco]

So the next step is to install the center bracing that goes inside the mount. I sprayed some weld through primer in here and the inside of the brace.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/k3MmejtnDBc_TYd8h3pZJ3B7ZZ2I7OZqog2eQyUP-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/Xe5P5QRyF18YiQY8z8YUVTeIE2Fd5xRh0eDRJKgz-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/nBUNGhFPv63jXTuKxA6WzBV23myMPbnYqEvaXn1e-1.jpg

After these were tacked in place, the instructions tell you to pretension the frame 3/8-1/2 inch as the frame tends to bow out when adding this kit. So I had to use two rachet straps to get to the 1/2" mark. Then I welded some 2"x 2" tubing to the top of the frame after it was pretensioned to hold it in place. After this the straps were removed.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/Wp923lzf_UXcNWk45BZs29Mg6SYvuHcuNm3Wxm_C-1.jpg

Next step is to start installing the lower plates. I started by priming both the inside of the plates, and the whole inside of the frame. Then I tacked it along the bottom side of the original frame and where the new plates attach. NOTE:. The plate does not sit flush with the frame. The stock frame is not level with the ground, and the inside edge has a slight downward slope. I made sure the bottom edge of the frame was perfectly aligned with the plate using C-Clamps and Body Vice Grips.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/iqF7Xq2pBO_gqPhkBMj5Pz6I8ztdhImotZvZdAu5-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/YlT1Q0gv4UEWvZQnwaqgOi__jwZwJCJUmb1x5qcT-1.jpg

Then repeat on the other side.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/pFOaSjvrfTS4gmltaRLPBOlcpAs1ZfMJ8imT0l6T-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/kzLXMZZeSTdY7L5Ln4XPjrR_zvDpgRXUa70s6nWM-1.jpg

Then you do the same thing to the front plates. I had to trim about an inch off of each one of the front plates on my frame. The rear plates were not trimmed during my install... It started to get hot at about 1:30, so we cleaned up and put everything away for today. With the frame on the rotisserie, it makes fitting the damn thing in my garage a bit of a challenge...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/TYfl1lbuw4JxR55DV47oWQWjGreBBLhfIf_1e82o-1.jpg

To be continued tomorrow.

[Deserttaco]

Alright kids. Now it gets fun!!! Today the high in Phoenix was 97 degrees, but it was 50% humidity, so it was pretty hot and soupy again today.... Today was a big day, and I got a TON done on the bracing kit. I also decided yesterday that I basically wanted to go over all of those factory welds and remove all of the dingleberries that have been there for almost 50 years. I'm not going for Show car quality, but I want it to look like someone gave a crap...

Started off at about 9AM this morning, and it was a nice 85 degrees. Started by clamping on the upper brace on the passenger side, then moved to the drivers side.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/AkQtoINqrGES9JQn03pwTvR_SvBGKeOIkr7AGQqx-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/5vIwc7AjqwuhDJTxLeBh9Ltxm1CK9mO5HGxlfO_d-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/DldewmoW8wRlRVy73cw_jqpRGMOrhHrXVjdNIwFR-1.jpg

Then the fronts...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/RRW2uNjAf5DVYvKV8NIePkHnLAq3kSfUyHBCtdYm-1.jpg


So yesterday I made a mistake when I installed the brace that goes inside the body mount. In the picture below, you can see that it does not sit level like the front and rear plates... lucky for me, I actually followed the directions and only tacked this piece on.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/1sZSGcGAXpjXFQ5ZKjZgvwkolyX9zU81nd7TVLAR-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/jxmLeUTQpakQm6sJ_BCSrcQqqf_m3WQILgX_1O_H-1.jpg

And here it is fixed...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/FoBJyKrYk_tDOsmeCLsac9vpbw9_yyEpKdVVSPFx-1.jpg

Repeat on the other side...


So While going over the frame, I found this little gem... This is the crossmember where the rear upper control mounts attach. Where this meets the frame the original weld was cracked, and this crossmember was lifting away from the frame...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/51xptWL61geN7EXDkTq7VXZCVF_c2sGSLi3shtuj-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/zRg1qJCA6D7HeXfRoBU8FEIH84SnKO1OcrbFJ2fM-1.jpg

This was ground out, and rewelded. I went over most of the bottom of the frame and re-welded everything that looked suspect (which was damn near the whole thing). So while waiting for my stitch welds to cool, I decided to undertake another project. I've heard of several people who really push the A-Bodies with stiff sway bars, actually rip the sway bar mounts out of the frame. The stock threads are just punched steel that was threaded... So I started with this.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/AUc0vDrDmnvTR3szVmaVv7hMEOcf_jae521zODv7-1.jpg

Made a cardboard template, just used a ball peen hammer to get the holes exact:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/GmQ_DKa2x3C229XWg2lqEeAZ4yHSJonJQm5crpcI-1.jpg

found some scrap 1/4 inch steel

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/T5YTIFQ80CT5Bg8l3RSowktWnVhFSVquzG7WVfYU-1.jpg

And after a little cutting, grinding, and more grinding, I ended up with this..

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/TGLZ8JHXPPWcHv86ZfLJW6_ot4FrLmKo3KQjOSUg-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/unC2TSPxZWT2xejvbrYwQulJq0YpybuxEjcnsi1q-1.jpg

out came the hole saw to remove the stock attachments.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/Da_BeKAFsUf9KYkc1pv24jFgcOQui8XtG8e6bkvL-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/z2cVv8tu8DazJzc__7puhzpgp99nGjNL7Qh4DSFQ-1.jpg

and I found some pretty beefy flange nuts in my bucket of junk that will do just fine...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/FLRRAAIxt8DNguzOtosZZ_RNB0e8T6OfDoBmRyg0-1.jpg

Those nuts got welded to the 1/4 inch plate, and the plate was welded to the frame.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/nEKQqckPHuPYTqx6h54C4duPP_o2DeOfQXEd4jQv-1.jpg


Also while waiting for the frame to cool, I found some damage that I wanted to repair for the front lower control arm brackets. These are the ones inside the front crossmember. It looks like the outer bushing tore into the steel. There was no real obvious wear on the control arms, or bushings...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/hOLTs0zkdFxi065Y0jTpYEI9kcOLo153DzOQWgWR-1.jpg

Strange thing is that the drivers side was WAY worse, and offset... The bushings in the control arms were in decent shape, so someone must have changed them at some point....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/DKmm7tuVhdD7B2kmJtpfiOu4a5nzmzRvE2cdte1G-1.jpg

So I filled in the damage with weld.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/P2RkbLF6IcHYxQA5MzMNyQvtNAOIX2QwBLS8iRat-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/n1i2_gYS2HDuX3f5lUPcnUcR9TuX2ywRKkRklJVN-1.jpg

Then Ground smooth. I later used a file to make sure they were flush and smooth.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/yHyIchyQWdUt1d6csHy7eN9vX7hm9WVeDiPlh6yN-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/AWR1EimeTZ51TCizzOZi1t1T9TLjD4eUuhsfoEZ0-1.jpg

[Deserttaco]

Here's the frame as it sits now. The bottom of the frame and the reinforcement kit is all welded solid on the bottom. All of the crappy OE welds are mostly extinct.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/eX2lbnJwwUPQsVioE2ZX7lDYAvJID98IsqRSnMG9-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/PJDFLRFqQn4kCxNagRYtQaMT5kQEKMO4su4uGuRZ-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/8M167epb2AkAyzmUFFFIqW9isQwuXGi0efYm_pf6-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/gDpVGHuu2hcHOwA11pWkTFOvRIb3dg9nWCCgaMA6-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/PouGz27phS30iMjpZOXjw98jGOA85p8_iU47qRRX-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/k70RC3lcpmMIIrEDJym5yXvL_2cBM2XfYSgeCenH-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/4q9S1UPr_liH6CIdKdH4XCvE_KjOC4JkWPn44BFm-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/S22jEW0oWTvsO_aB6WugNSm_791yHx_lZseBAr8F-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/nEGAGSBX1SPUOq_5_WBhNHt5wD3IVP0zokZVmvyr-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/jKjntPpDRDyREkCsTyBqX6bQG01Oz10Cx7_USYlN-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/_1nVMHS7NMQVU7oBGQ8jJ9CMjrx_9a6dQblTkZNJ-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/sKsBhdIX4eHn4yiUyfeS5zuYphLtNFn_jqgcJcgX-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/J1hLj7BgU_FriBeJf7JPCDPnoZ_zpn5YpckS_VHK-1.jpg

[LT1C1500]

Lots of detail work man! You remind me of me ��. If I didn't do the little things while I was in there it would drive me crazy every time I looked st it down the road. Keep up the good work! This makes me upset that I was forced to send my '72 to the junk yard-title and all- due to lack of storage space. Funny thing is, When I went to the junk yard the next day to go buy it back ( without my parents permission - I was still in high school) the car never made it to the junkyard..... funny how that happened. That was 21 years ago and I'm still upset :). Keep up the great work and I'll be watching

[Deserttaco]

Finished up the welding today (HORRAY!!!!!). Found a couple more areas that could use reinforcements, so I took a few hours, went over the frame with a fine toothed comb and made sure there weren't any areas that I missed. After that was done, I went over the entire frame again and scuffed the surface, wire wheeled the welds, and generally got it cleaned up in preparation for epoxy primer...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/gwlUQNb4Er5qah81a424Z5vq5A_TdDgGjLEJ1IN1-1.jpg

Welded nuts to the shock mounts (you see the bolt heads in this photo. This should make installing the rear shocks quite a bit easier...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/KwWy4jVROTFdX8m0cHbvYxLNorkRE8RPquU5Idxs-1.jpg

Here is the frame basically ready for primer.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/tWi2KTdJHEauJManDVCygSzSq4SUhMeYajLQESkw-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/G_wIYeBQwFWTU4n5n51m7UQi7IscGTJRHYv2OQqA-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/4Ju5kOjQ5BhR6nByO8r5G_uOZniRX5cq0O5dGBnQ-1.jpg

Primed...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/KRLu_AeyAue6OOXm6YEOjXviCXrbZHGMcrwgMnZx-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/7MXr29rDK6eCNa_CBRYs8RQwTxk2xfpdqvEdp0QQ-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/SJyyqh7bMchxyd03M6vnFupgcqc_oMOjouWcY5ti-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/luJOirr0QVWWn3aKQj0mVJ2IAPrdwMrIl41eALur-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/5ucTwWCkuCUduLo_MES2L9M6hB2s9iikO4PKLTRm-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/Vekopx5fqOzU1OPSkzpZbCd9lufbQiRwlhB88aw9-1.jpg

I'm back to work tomorrow and traveling and won't be back home until next week, so this will be tucked into the garage for a while. I have spent probably somewhere in the realm of about 30-40 hours total on this project if I include the original frame removal time (not counting the two weeks it took to sandblast the frame).

NOTE, I did not install the transmission crossmember kit that came with the Hellwig bracing. I will be fabricating my own mount...

If anyone has any questions about the kit, or the install, please let me know.

Steve

[ryeguy2006a]

Very interesting read, I appreciate going through builds with this much detail. Will check in on this for future progress.

[andrewb70]

Did you ever think about adding the Global West (or others) front coil over extension kits? I wish that was available when I did my chassis...

Andrew

[Deserttaco]

Did you ever think about adding the Global West (or others) front coil over extension kits? I wish that was available when I did my chassis...

Andrew

I considered it, but decided against it. For right now, I'm planning on running conventional suspension with coil springs and shocks. (already purchased). If someday I decide to put coilovers on it, I don't mind taking the sheetmetal back off to add the suspension components.

Steve

[MOREHORSEPOWER]

Wow your getting it done !!!!

[Deserttaco]

Spent the last few weeks doing family stuff, and helping my wife work on a Grad School project, so the car kind of took a back seat. I did manage to paint the inside of the framerails like I did the rocker panels in one of the earlier posts. The weather was pretty nice today only got up to about 99 today, so I spent some time helping my wife, then cleaning up the garage because it was a mess. After noon, I got the frame down off of the Rotisserie and started mocking up the front suspension. I got the engine and transmission bolted in, and now I'm on to building the transmission crossmember, so I installed the headers, and the AC Compressor to make sure that I didn't have to notch the frame, It's all good. Feels pretty good to have the frame more or less done, and the front suspension mocked up. After the transmission crossmember is done, I'll be running the brake and fuel lines. These AFX Spindles have been sitting in boxes for almost 8 years now in the garage. I forgot how nice they looked. I also attached the front rotors, and was going to mock up the brakes, but I didn't have the hardware to mount the calipers... I'll most likely wait until I buy the rear brakes which will be later this fall/winter.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/j61fSzR27BQ4Wc0lYuML2KW1PVBXJ1K1AH7vH4CU-1.jpg

A question for all of you guys that are using the SPC upper control arms. At the Ball Joint plate, one of the attachment points has a bolt going through it, The other side is welded... I'm guessing that the welded link goes forward??? Also I'm not sure if I have the arms oriented correctly I have one where the bolts come from the bottom, and one where the bolts go in through the top. the pivot is a little different, where it's offset either high or low depending on how you mount he BJ.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/3HwbbPR9RUsXSgkENTC4DpuSBYBexwDdRvXzQ2LJ-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/55Re7Dc8dHWopXQxnzRjVnYwI4iJyqgYtWTkZSh8-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/3BvBv5TbPj4vPRHX2LFmvIVlP0KNpmgN485WQAE7-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/1iF1k_Gdqn8f8bdxG0uuAbUPaJ75qwjmk5Smmwig-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/ugB1a0fPje8IiE8UmfjvJocMb0SzNnzLC1DDUOOx-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/itv7mH6kJN2x3HfKGMNuKUjLIKYdr2b1WOVyzIFe-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/ahDqHglXm9b18M0kfFqXglnhelOA6q_Y6Zxv2za_-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/_IoeP6Vp1m7P8_t5z9Tn5GtFIEJUxNVc6bAPpxez-1.jpg

This is just the start of the crossmember, More to come...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/9k1RkLK1RXV7NCtaNZCRW6sVH9F_5atCPJv8BWng-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/37y6YveCDLw1KRoe4QTRKKqfEL_N_1FMe1JRKfzZ-1.jpg

[Motown 454]

That's looking good, nice work.

[cdrod]

Deserttaco:
What a great thread, please keep posting such detailed pics. I'm building a '72 Olds 442 convertible and have the SPC upper arms on my front suspension. The SPC install docs state that the arms should be installed such that the longer adjusting arm (the one welded to the ball joint plate) is toward the front of the car. Keep up the good work!
Rodney

[Deserttaco]

Another weekend, and a little more progress. Today I spent some time getting the mounts for the transmission crossmember build and welded in. I still need to weld the bottom of it, but I'll do that when I get it in a position to lift it up a little higher. Welding on my back in this heat is not going to happen... I'm pretty happy with the way these turned out, It'll allow me to easily install/remove the crossmember and let it be pretty strong too. The piece of 2X2 .120 wall tubing is just a mock up piece, the real crossmember won't be built until the chassis is back under the body so that I can make sure I get the transmission height right.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/7isHJHxYVPoW3Q6LpAL9xUysEs36sLyYrWzR8BJl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/mgcIh9aru78cKD6OTaTfHbYYDbVzEBM9eugNyBQK-1.jpg

I used some cardboard templates to cut the 2.5X2.5 tubing so that it'd fit the frame profile, I also spaced these mounts up about .300 so that the bolt heads would be up above the bottom of the frame and there wouldn't be anything to catch on them. Didn't take any pictures of the CAD Templates, or the intermediate steps.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/B8IsjjtVpGg3htzY4gXVvASruJAC0BN4UMHOAypz-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/FKejMyoNyTG8fJUDQUfwws7xvPrjBdT0tUw69HV_-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/6lVK4QDF0bL7dpKutYqU4PV6Qb6H_2ofwGdaxShq-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/Kr1RopvGA0l20qsAx7sxi3s6cwhTIq1vwmda5O1o-1.jpg

After that was done to my satisfaction, I decided to mock up the rear suspension and braces. I haven't purchased any rear springs yet, so I'm just reusing the stockers for the time being.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/NAqE8p2A6VHCFaBu4IEJQtiggs1VZo46xqb7szuU-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/_78jcrj73uzM4eIls0RcHFgiWqfgT74pNEBJS4s2-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/B47cE0b9ihfchzmDAfWAzVrq2FC6q2Kh06sXxCG2-1.jpg

That actually only took me about an hour to put together. I decided to mock up the rear Hellwig Sway Bar. The kit and the instructions are actually put together pretty well, and the assembly only took about an hour and a half. It's a pretty nice kit and it's adjustable.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/PrbIb4EOXMut3J1kvCmi5anhanl4Zuf7HuUsNma4-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/xcyQLoIQ_oauAydTcnYZ8faGHZbZZXKQurAzoWUN-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/x7oNNnaX2hceC8sHUCUkBqSBz4z4OPR88Gfw3UMr-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/m0RBuBz57bkPjjNMH5VvuJNOYHVio0lMB5k9YxIH-1.jpg

[Deserttaco]

I am going to try to use the stock fuel tank modified to accept the fuel pump, bucket, sending unit, and EVAP system from a 2006 Pontiac GTO to feed the LS2 from the same car. I will also be using the stock master Cylinder, and booster from the same car. The brakes will all be C5 Corvette brakes, with a Wilwood proportioning valve. So there is NO off the shelf brake line kits that I can use for my car, and I wasn't about to cobble something together using almost 50 year old stock lines. Since I have the body and frame separated, I wanted to route and mount both the brake lines, and fuel lines prior to reuniting the two halves.

I probably spent WAY more on this system than what is actually required, but I'd rather do it right the first time than have to come back and redo something because i cheaped out...

So to start: I choose to use the NiCopp Lines because they won't rust, and they are AMAZING to work with. I will be using Stainless gravel guard on all of the tubing just like the factory did. I decided to use 1/4 line from the rear axle to the proportioning valve. I'll be using 3/16 for the rear axle itself (not shown yet, need to wait until I get the rear parking brake parts and flex lines so everything lands at the right place. I'll be using 5/16 line for the LS2 EVAP purge line. 3/8 fuel line, and a 1/2 inch fuel line put there for future use if I ever upgrade the engine to something that needs more fuel. I have no interest in running flex line from front to back, Hard line is the way to go... I also splurged and bought the Mastercool flaring tool... This thing is amazing and well worth the money.

So first the lines...

I tried to use the coat hangers to mock up my bends... This sort of worked, but I ended up abandoning it after just a few minutes. I actually only scrapped about 20 inches of line due to a bender malfunction on the bigger diameter tubing.The benders were only used on the 5/16 and smaller tubing. The larger tubing was bent by hand. The tubing itself came in rolls of 25 feet, so I wanted to straighten it as much as possible before getting to far. There was a build here on this forum where someone built something similar so I stole the idea and made my own tubing straightener. only cost me about $8...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/jxcH5UQF2wmswLt8ubIuZkNIHCc1ZXBrwT15V9tO-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/wg3JeJgQZg2J8ZuSUkiKNtVqU9lUK3UIpfYdf4y8-1.jpg

I used this same straightener for all of the different sizes of tubing... Worked AMAZING!

for hold down brackets, I went down to the local plastic shop, and asked the guy if I could poke around. I told him what I was working on, and he showed me this black plastic. He said it's the same stuff that milk cartons are made of, Pretty tuff, has a melting range of about 280 degrees, and cuts like butter... So I figured perfect for what I needed. I had them cut me 30 pieces that are 1/2" tall, 3/4 wide, and 4 and 1/4 long. I got the idea from a couple of guys in the UK building a Mini called project Binky... If you are ever bored, Check it out, really cool tech and lots of great ideas...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/JvKo036ASYNWMOZdkL_vB4jgQeKAmEksce7BLWYw-1.jpg

I cut these down a little more until they are about 2 inches long just using a wood blade on my saw.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/D5x9vz30AT9Mn_elh3OZpWWlOcDhEcPLjj5jXmt8-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/7aqM2skEA7BVnfwzOrOuS09Aupp1C70nisp3u9Ir-1.jpg

Set the pieces on their end in my vice and with the drill press, I drilled a 1/4 inch hole in one side, and a 5/16 hole in the other side.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/vGAHsymEd7CCVmdsrNVt1TgxjPhJhPjj5AvpTili-1.jpg

Then set them straight up in the vice, and using a Forstner bit I cut the recess for the bolt heads.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/buJbtXKvZQqqlWqIJqV0MJqpaaqG6gC5UyovpKTk-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/yEHDAgbbu0GLl_Pew76IO3zpXzOXuGxZXXTB7uW9-1.jpg

Then drilled the rest of the way with a 1/4" bit for the bolt through.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/i3S9bHStwurXqQYYByslix7hjkp8mYpiVeXpnAt7-1.jpg

So here's a mock up of what it looks like. The bolt head is flush with the top, and the bolt extends just enough to go down through the frame.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/zLVVpnVdju96EP7hqSdN2xGefBDCnAE8XNpJxm4b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/RdXpLIQ_81f7hNEtUWeBmLX6Cl2v8IcPi02aE_Ck-1.jpg

I tried to mimic the stock lines where I could, but since I'm changing so much with the car, and don't ultimately know where the lines are going to land, I have an unknown factor here, so a lot of the lines are run long to accommodate changes when the body and chassis are reunited. Anyway here are the rest of the pictures.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/vrakxpSGmFGtUj0hLGpEGB7Z3drGIzFONEeQNog9-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/Tn17Ae7WizVKOC0vrqR76FEpug_RDgVmWvUBNoCP-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/J1_SMwqSbyV9yEiQodEIrEYdaj1YNmCnVtBjfj4o-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/UmYQNLg1AxRluQNcbnqJQrRZjQO90p6DN0EzByZE-1.jpg

Don't pay attention to the mismatched hardware... This is simply a mock up, the hardware will all be changed to the correct hardware upon final assembly, and after the gravel guard is installed.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/qW4sCLbsorbtW9KHlryWibzy1YILNE6v1MAjnc62-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/V_NaYIIHuIxe0iy9ULHo4FFkxejQznLHVKEzfVTT-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/GXFqeeaxANSzOfyu89C7Cm3o7UUsRjnQC1yYC2Wv-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/ynRW7j8BP1oN_4XRXoouKQCB45kMoyl0jlh_jaYb-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/lhxOpYiZunyyXT6sFbLcwYSr8W1vL8Rn2jw4Icsr-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/Rjtd3EC_GdQFRQvzgaxsVW3W1gmLM0dm9bKLmNqy-1.jpg

The lines go straight to the end of the frame. I'm not sure where the final position of the proportioning valve will be, and won't determine that until the body is reinstalled.

The Fuel lines for now are just sitting there. I'm hoping that tonight or tomorrow, I'll be able to build the brackets for these, and get them installed. I'll update these pictures as soon as they are done.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/Oqo8DI9M4M55_SdAJfsuECz8Rfl6W1HNM_o3D_GJ-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/CY1ICjSHeQnrT5sA6KjwbDotWD1nksq5MxZQlwm7-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/mLEU_MwtHseUIu2wtSblklVR_pRLC1qjmc1RLp9X-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/KVIv1Hbi0dWYpPqzhj47YGLoNRD6XErvfQra1jbj-1.jpg

[gator68428]

Just saw this thread for the first time. WOW is all i can say and it's not nearly enough. So I'll add this :jawdrop: :cool: :cheers: :twothumbs
Looking forward to seeing this thing come together.

[cdrod]

Deserttaco:
I read your post with your fuel system plans. The '06 GTO fuel pump may be too tall to fit in the Chevelle tank. A 5th gen LS3 Camaro pump is a great OEM alternative that will fit depth-wise and will run on a PWM power feed for lower fuel temps and quieter operation. One big obstacle is the 5th gen mounting flange is very large so tank mods are required or you need to purchase a RestoMod tank from Rick's Tanks that already has the 5th gen pump mounting ring. I chose the RestoMod tank from Rick's.
Vetteworks makes a fuel pump mount for the 5th gen pump that can be welded into a stock tank or a custom tank if you decided to go this route. I bought a kit from Carl at VaporWorx (Carl is a member here) that allows me to run a return-less EFI fuel system (I think this is called a dead-head system). If you install a 4th gen poppet valve in the 5th gen Camaro pump you can bypass excess fuel in the tank to regulate the fuel pressure to 58psi and run a single line to the engine - no need for a bypass regulator under the hood or a return line. My HP needs are less than 400HP so this will work great for my throttle body EFI set-up. Carl has other kits for higher HP levels and stand-alone PWM controllers if the factory ECM can't run in PWM. Here are a few pics of my parts:

5th Gen Pump and 4th Gen Poppet Valve
143158

RestoMod Tank from Rick's Tanks
143159

Vetteworks Fuel Pump Bucket
143160

[Deserttaco]

Rodney,

Thanks for the information. I have been poking around and considered the Ricks Restomod tank. It's a pretty awesome tank, but I'm going to try to use what I got. I have the stock '06 GTO tank with sending unit, pump, and all of the plumbing required. The GTO tank is a bit taller than the Chevelle tank, but there was a guy on LS1Tech that took a GTO pump and cut down the standoffs. That's what I'm planning... If it doesn't work, then I'll take a look at the Camaro pump module. I was planning on cutting the top of the GTO tank and grafting it to my stock Chevelle tank. Hopefully I'll post pictures by the end of the year of that.

Steve

[Deserttaco]

Big day today. I got just about all of the frame work done, Just have some primer touch up to do, and that'll all be done right before I reunite the body and frame. So the frame and chassis were mothballed, and I pulled the body out with the hopes of getting it on the rotisserie. It rained ALOT here last night, so it was only 75 degrees this morning, so I was up and out in the garage at about 0630. The frame got pushed out into the driveway first, and I tried to move a bunch of stuff around to give me a lot of space.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/kVi1VDj7_zAHvnLyNH37ASW5Qf2ezQm10ujR1nxL-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/O4H1VAbqRIYvV8RnsVPl1PKuM2kW6_Y6QicN1aou-1.jpg

I moved the body back over, and got it up high enough to get the rotisserie arms attached to the body mounts. The rear mounts were pretty easy to use, the front mounts were wider, and I had to extend the rotisserie arms out to be able to utilize the mounts.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/924BWvycmcJbex7dFN3R4Sz5ng6G8hosW49DsXUt-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/iW37YyT9bxFOjYtG5K_mOeWAxwD7s19qwKpy6OmI-1.jpg

And like that, It's on...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/ZaVNkkSygeDT5gMO83cLNjYo8iUy3lm4hQL309lt-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/9pkjQDPkymkaKvEn67z4gIXgNJa8OgooZWOD_pFc-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/Hkumtc9Yjn1ntzrnxHArqOgvUMYPCO1eYGzwIdh_-1.jpg

Took me about 20 minutes to get the balance just right. Now everything is locked down and I can spin it pretty easily by myself. When I let it go, it stays where I have it without moving.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/KjeNkL64h5RAvQgvmbvGog9eVOItwbrmfUl9vsmT-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/WajfhkG9tgCezsr3pyiHlnMjwgufvTysghVYIkr3-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/kagHxppnOao2NGTzUylLpPCaWEXCqtVg23QxlR3q-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/5k7WX_O8s5_67dTDaxbLKpb_sUTTFra9s46sKW5M-1.jpg

https://youtu.be/Ym84aBsrov4

[Deserttaco]

Over the past two weeks, I've been working on cleaning up the bottom of the car in preparation for the seat mount bracing, and to finish off the transmission tunnel, and the Floor Bracing. There's a part of me that wishes that I just took the damn thing to the same sandblaster that I took the frame to, but didn't want to spend the coin, and wanted to do this in steps.. Plus I didn't want to be cleaning blasting sand out of every crevice for years... This was all done with wire wheels, 3M Bristle disks, and lots of time and patience....

This is a good pic of what I started with. No really rusty areas except the very back of the car from the three holes in the trunk pan back. This area was pretty rusty. There is no rot here, just some pretty thick surface rust. The rest of the floor had 50 years of road grime, there was some undercoating in the wheel wells, and a few other areas on the floor.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/KYHBktb_AHQAeT93krAp14FvfSVVVGJfLY8VJ2_x-1.jpg

Here's the extra body mount from the Hellwig kit. The surrounding floor pan is a pretty good representation of what the rest of the floor looked like up close. Lots of crap, the OE black paint/primer, and lots of clean sheetmetal.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/Q5Dye3eXPcKdYxJc5wvsIihUKiQu_W2cyRem7Yzu-1.jpg

In this picture you can see the amount of extra space I will be gaining with the GTO tunnel. The OE Floor brace will be removed and replaced with a section from the GTO Brace.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/XxcycD_qep0wCF9G7RCC5Mevpy4fbME3IgjRV7EZ-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/sIQFnMen4o1wsgFqBpEmpjL6TDGiJqMPMc2VVJOW-1.jpg

Here's how it looks now... I still have some clean up work to do around the edges... Still need to work on the wheel houses, and a few areas around the rear floor brace... The rust in this area pictured below was THICK! Just from those holes in the trunk pan to the tail panel probably took the majority of the time.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/VV3IvzDi81VJaycJAG8Eq00YAoNCcL6PAtb5dD67-1.jpg

I did unfortunately find a little bit of rust in the bottom of the quarter... I'll have to cut this out and repair it...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/tuhkvPM3wHNozvSNkp8WzQGXwgw0Tg63wNdR97hf-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/OsD4n7dWCsyKO2uLE13cJzj8frBbyTa4_OyyIQMl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/vOBRo3O3zdXJOVWq9vy807VmnI05SLgTIcP7exjv-1.jpg

Over the next 2-3 weeks, I'm hoping to finish cleaning up the bottom of the floor (including the wheelhouses), build and install my seat mount bracing, Remove the floor braces where the attached to the Original tunnel, and install the GTO braces. Then finish welding up the transmission tunnel. Hopefully after that, I'll be able to get the sound deadening on the bottom of the car, and the heat shield. I'm planning on Lizard Skin both the sound, and the heat coatings under the floor, and on the roof.

Steve

[ekmxryda]

Nice job cleaning up the underside of the body, had to do that twice to my GTO. Even after it was sandblasted it was lots of work to prep for paint.

[Deserttaco]

Deserttaco:
I read your post with your fuel system plans. The '06 GTO fuel pump may be too tall to fit in the Chevelle tank. A 5th gen LS3 Camaro pump is a great OEM alternative that will fit depth-wise and will run on a PWM power feed for lower fuel temps and quieter operation. One big obstacle is the 5th gen mounting flange is very large so tank mods are required or you need to purchase a RestoMod tank from Rick's Tanks that already has the 5th gen pump mounting ring. I chose the RestoMod tank from Rick's.
Vetteworks makes a fuel pump mount for the 5th gen pump that can be welded into a stock tank or a custom tank if you decided to go this route. I bought a kit from Carl at VaporWorx (Carl is a member here) that allows me to run a return-less EFI fuel system (I think this is called a dead-head system). If you install a 4th gen poppet valve in the 5th gen Camaro pump you can bypass excess fuel in the tank to regulate the fuel pressure to 58psi and run a single line to the engine - no need for a bypass regulator under the hood or a return line. My HP needs are less than 400HP so this will work great for my throttle body EFI set-up. Carl has other kits for higher HP levels and stand-alone PWM controllers if the factory ECM can't run in PWM. Here are a few pics of my parts:

5th Gen Pump and 4th Gen Poppet Valve
143158

RestoMod Tank from Rick's Tanks
143159

Vetteworks Fuel Pump Bucket
143160


Rodney,

Thanks for the information. I have been poking around and considered the Ricks Restomod tank. It's a pretty awesome tank, but I'm going to try to use what I got. I have the stock '06 GTO tank with sending unit, pump, and all of the plumbing required. The GTO tank is a bit taller than the Chevelle tank, but there was a guy on LS1Tech that took a GTO pump and cut down the standoffs. That's what I'm planning... If it doesn't work, then I'll take a look at the Camaro pump module. I was planning on cutting the top of the GTO tank and grafting it to my stock Chevelle tank. Hopefully I'll post pictures by the end of the year of that.

Steve

This weekend I cleaned out the 15+ year old gas from the stock tank, and pulled out the GTO pump assembly. There's no way I can cut this down enough to fit in the Chevelle tank. At a minimum it'd be 11-12 inches tall, and the Chevelle tank is only 7.5 to the top of the highest ribs.... So I scrapped the GTO pump assembly, and ordered a 5th Gen Camaro pump from Ebay for $44 shipped. I talked to Carl this week, and I'll likely be ordering the mods from him probably next week.

[ryeguy2006a]

This weekend I cleaned out the 15+ year old gas from the stock tank, and pulled out the GTO pump assembly. There's no way I can cut this down enough to fit in the Chevelle tank. At a minimum it'd be 11-12 inches tall, and the Chevelle tank is only 7.5 to the top of the highest ribs.... So I scrapped the GTO pump assembly, and ordered a 5th Gen Camaro pump from Ebay for $44 shipped. I talked to Carl this week, and I'll likely be ordering the mods from him probably next week.

Good plan! Let me know if you have any questions during the install.

[minendrews68]

You would think that if someone was going to go to this much trouble building a car, they would do a better job of documenting it. I mean c'mon! Just to let you know I am definitely kidding. Man you've had your work cut out and doing a very good job too I might add. This build is going to be one that goes down in your history books. Great job and keep it up. I'm impressed! Your not from the south originally are you?

Carl

[Deserttaco]

Thanks Carl!

Definitely a labor of love. I can't wait to drive this damn thing... I have a long way to go, but I see the light at the end of the tunnel. One thing I've found over the years of surfing/lurking on this site, and several others, is that once I see that someone else has done something similar and got good results without a giant shop with lots of really expensive tools. It sure makes tackling that project a little easier. So I hope that someday all of the detailed projects that I've done here will help motivate or inspire someone else to start or continue their own projects...

No not from the south, born in Il, and grew up in the Bay Area in Northern California.

Steve

[Deserttaco]

Ever feel like you are working your butt off and getting nowhere? Yup, That's where I am at... So for the last three weeks, I've spent a bit of time working on the car, with little to actually show for it. After getting the floor nice and clean, the next item on my list was to get the seat mount reinforcements fabricated and attached. Since the seats that I'm using have an integrated seatbelt in them, I need the mounts to be strong enough to withstand the force of an impact with my 240lb frame attached to it, So I set off to make those reinforcements over the last week. Probably the hardest part was matching the contours of the floor and trying to make the braces not look like a hack job...

Several months ago, I mocked up the seats and drilled the holes in the floor for the BMW seat mounts... The front outboard mounts, just caught the edge of the front floor brace, but I didn't feel that this area was strong enough, so I decided that I'd use a piece of 1/8" Steel Plate, then box it with some 2X2 tubing. First step was to draw up where the plate would go. As you can see, the inboard mount has no support at all...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/NLYuHfOlsVSO81XJidYowXSKrT76RJjezqoY2Hqj-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/lWAICPb3ssL14HeSmlzIaJ22WfVvoheR_ZI1sXnL-1.jpg

Then Cut it out...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/AGwhibVBT2OTvb4l4XP7e18WyGympKI0Vg6v6ZAb-1.jpg

Same with the Back Brace.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/vWIK8o4GO6dp6F_GOKT8h35SSOFHM1F8eiae3J2q-1.jpg


Pay no attention to the hole in the floor and the brace that looks like it was chewed on by a Chupacabra.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/_yKUUSkdYUtd8BXrU0pyHDZteZ_EUOTFlbYsYO0R-1.jpg


I spent some time with a Mapp Gas torch, a sledge hammer and lots of patience. to get the plate to match the contour of the floor. This was probalby the most time consuming portion of the build.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/mKd9qhDd2XyUvDRMY53J959YOddJOZllkthL18O0-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/nPll3uc56RMWHbBiCpKYWqM6G_WxuDde58eXrwPK-1.jpg


Welded some flange nuts (7/16) to the plates.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/6dsHmjezZPeTWel3bOtnG9YSgovCdC1FMOI6Mqp8-1.jpg

and contoured the 2X2 tubing to match the contour of the 1/8" Plate (Which more or less matches the contours of the floor...)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/pSgNkqzVhK20GFfyU0rl6ZNY5YlS54gcsZPDfJED-1.jpg

Here you can see the stock brace, and the new brace sharing the same space. The new brace tucks under the OEM one for hopefully more support and rigidity.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/hEKBShRII06pGd7al75B9dZVYWf5nhALO3_1959t-1.jpg

Front passenger side brace completed, ready to attach to the floor.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/R8zNoXje9ARhCukZiDUf1uWoOq4OQ88NhPRtn0Vr-1.jpg

Rear brace is roughed in.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/wcGPx7BYmwHTHvm263kxFIHMo1MxdmHxt9LczGLy-1.jpg

and with some internet magic.... And a little help from my oldest daughter today. All 4 braces are welded in to the floor.

https://youtu.be/E4KdcSvmUgA

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/SvGsmpdlhAVPOWpZrSaNfkR7zl3dwWtbtA9IqL7E-1.jpg


Now that I had some structure in the floor and braces, I tackled the braces that attached to the original Chevelle tunnel. These were quite a bit too short for the GTO tunnel. So I started with the front one and removed it.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/pnBLUM552MwzHQoqQ5EQx9bVOPNxadBFpTg5fNYc-1.jpg

I heavily modified the GTO Brace, because I didn't like how tall it was, So I sectioned out about 3/4", and grafted it to the original Chevelle floor braces. Didn't get a lot of pictures of that...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/3sZ_viNkX1ZSLQwbidKY6L5AxXZH41skeukSWSxB-1.jpg

Here are both halves mocked up and prepping for final welding.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/reHVx5v9sLfH98wZ1FuRwF7TNiMydd0wMhSbQYXu-1.jpg

And that's as far as I got... I'm hoping to spend a little more time on these braces, Finish fixing the holes in the floor that I made for the seat... to be continued.

BTW, I also got my new fuel pump assy. from a 5th Gen Camaro, This will work nicely. I was going to try to use the FPR from the GTO fuel bucket to save a little money, but as my luck would have it, The GTO FPR will NOT work (even with the Vaporworx adapter) in the 5th gen Camaro Fuel bucket. I'll be ordering the mod kit with the new 4th Gen regulator here in a month or so.

[Deserttaco]

Update:

Getting closer to priming the bottom of the car, then Lizard Skinning... Finished cleaning up the transmission hump braces. I adapted the GTO braces to the Chevelle floor braces.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/wpXTUFMn4S0ZsVE2cgI0FyyDY8tdby5Kxr2q5wKF-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/P9HPASypvXmsP0k0FR9I1JzJmIqGG5f2TgkTJ4Hf-1.jpg

Finished welding my access panel for the transmission and cleaned all of the mill scale off of the firewall. Then I added hardware to attach and remove the panel. There are hidden fasteners on the firewall side, and square nuts on the bottom of the trans tunnel.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/8fBQc4KVK6VLamiD3HzAmJabQpVO9_N4mYrIuVzY-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/n3Y6PlN5kNSGN2IdIfs90xb69WIO9Q9A6scpqiej-1.jpg

Also got the inside of the roof completely cleaned off and ready for priming.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/zwLjgp0exsLNPQww0jRCThZYDb3muqugye1TDxUC-1.jpg


Then onto the quarter panels. So the original quarters had the smallest bit of rust, so I decided to patch the lower portion of the quarter on both sides. I bought the patch panels from ebay. The first set came and they were pretty beat up, so the company sent me another set that were in a little better shape, but will still require quite a bit of work to get nice and straight...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/o6_qige8MWirb6I0MNfoUe46AtyM_94laq4ms_1G-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/p3ejhhsIRbw8uDP0fd5weqNdCPhD5Hp9YuY4Kptm-1.jpg

Not really sure what the red schmoo is. It's still flexible, but it looks like the factory missed a little during the application process and that's where my rust came from...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/dehm11Vufr6CZZw2K4LDLES6IWwXfxpXiC9T1Xw5-1.jpg

Unfortunately, the damage traveled up the side of the quarter a little bit.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/mJq0CoJq_dPLaPfFcgkVv6hF3dY2defHSLn3aiml-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/C2AnFBCIlznkTBeWAjljZ53HxCAmGbpBR04FWRuD-1.jpg

There was a bit of surface rust back here that I couldn't reach, and I couldn't tell if it was rot, so I cut it out...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/rHO6UoDqxMmajsdbvSzT41v4xMnIyci5lFynMPgT-1.jpg

Just a little bit of rot on the trunk drop off. I was able to repair this.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/EgKA949uWH2pkbHMiSZ78SHFwQkzdvCcyfXtkkXN-1.jpg

First trial fit of the patch.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/MFqtqhwwK2fXdOBEn0hQnnePBiJ73pCYUg4hGRGh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/bBX6yPktuDAI9Gziikl9YLLr_KtY1MoebACMER3J-1.jpg

Also had to repair the bottom of the outer wheel house.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/_05gbqdU1pVnj8q1b9pCIZ9zXQbCznGJOlXfH4mE-1.jpg

My CAD template
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/iagFfLbnDcuS8CXXb93mUZ7kY46uOdUM4yjU4i5n-1.jpg

The new piece with weld through primer on the back side...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/88C1zo5B_Hp6yjFHxE3HrRTX_hZOPKuanLxAiu9I-1.jpg

Everything cleaned up, primed, and ready to go back together.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/4buAAlBUCuWx0_Ione4s9zQIn9SAxA8GAUzLXos6-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/errkg0Hvj3COzLBK4dx9yTQYREoiaOkMI0ISMyCl-1.jpg

I was terrified of warping, so I spaced my welds out about 6 inches, and just stitched it back together.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/THxgUZRGV_rZebcd9dqcc5WvPP1GrHMvMS5PrGc0-1.jpg

This is the inside, you can see perfect penetration.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/0fRkFM4_9ze05TbT6o6inpRzLdHNV9QMZ6zE4gHt-1.jpg

And here she is all patched up.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/KJ4Sc14_qDykUbAPQ4ght137RZ0rQ5HIsYKvxZbB-1.jpg


I started on the other side, but didn't get very far. Luckily, the patch on the drivers side is much smaller... More to come.

[Motown 454]

You and your helper did a great job. It!s looking good.

[Deserttaco]

More progress in preparation of priming the bottom of the car. Yesterday I finished patching the lower quarters. The drivers side was MUCH easier as there was no rot above the body line, so the issue was just the bottom of the rocker. The inner wheel House had some rot also that was fixed.

Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures of the patch for the inner wheelhouse.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/u_WBnQHLiJmbro3RJr0n7t74u0ScJfSEh_yLWd8l-1.jpg

I ordered both quarter patches, incase I needed them, but I ended up only using one of them. I used the remainder of the passenger side patch to fix the drivers side. I'll probably end up selling the drivers side patch. Here's my outline for the patch for the bottom of the drivers side quarter.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/2NFi9fdJEXEwheS4WzSSFr6In0rMb9mDjkoou8wk-1.jpg

And her she is all patched up.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/B_rLlx1I0cE2f_Jv0F469Q4O3s6_UdyoVaxlK8nL-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/FS6toRD6uT5icbdemILZFYBBvgRCsbgSRxYNXxd5-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/4TZiioa8dcKiEXkW6emf_AjCfoAalZgMgGtGqg7i-1.jpg

I also finished re-mounting the rear seat upright. The bottom was too far out, and they didn't latch, So I removed 3/4 from each of the mounts, and reattached them. I also welded up some 2X2 tubing for the latches for the seats. Now both rear seats mount solidly, and don't rattle.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/PiBwz2ImrV2wRfRO0vhYUrqK4p3xr_1WwGjL5ht9-1.jpg

I took the body off of the rotisserie and primed the attachment points. This will hopefully allow me to prime the entire bottom of the car, and apply the Lizard Skin in one sitting. I had a little extra primer mixed up so I decided to prime the firewall.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/BgWmS9T7klSz6AHMjAkTEL5Nfu3iHpA2aft7MuyD-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/ITKaU4GwuI0hNIeqffvNnUsosoH1kqzpKewXeuSp-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/Jh5Pq32APTQixO1h3qeN_65_3nRDI1jHG0fDYpIF-1.jpg

So far the firewall looks pretty straight, so hopefully that'll mean no heroic bodywork to get it nice and smooth!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/6gMa0z2gQ5fPKTFuy2vf8c4J1IbDGhoUr6v6qViF-1.jpg