MAF location

[badazz81z28]

Instructions say 6" of tube and 10" from TB. Thoughts on these locations?

[CSG]

Good chance it will surge and you can't clock it with the one piece bended tube. Try it and add straightning mesh if needed.

[badazz81z28]

^^^^huh???

[raustinss]

Huh x2 ....also I'd try to locate it on the bottom of the tube to be out of sight

[dhutton]

Huh x2 ....also I'd try to locate it on the bottom of the tube to be out of sight

Supposed to be between 10 and 2 o'clock if I remember right. Moisture accumulation is the issue.

That position looks ok to me. I have done several roughly there with no surging etc. Maybe lose the accordion section and use a smooth elbow.

Don

[gator68428]

Looks fine to me. I've seen factory installs closer to an elbow than that.

The calibration will change based on the orientation in the tube--like right now you have it almost on the top of the tube but angled back slightly. If you were to put it on the very top or on the side it would sample different airflows the MAF transfer function will be dependent on that--in any case the relative flow it samples is proportional to total flow. Once you mount it, it's fixed in place and make sure in the future that tube gets put back in that exact orientation (Edit: just looked at the pic again and see the straight is part of the elbow, so the orientation will take care of itself :-)). I would recommend calibrating the MAF after install (standard thing a tuner will do) or you can do yourself if you have access to the ECU file and a wideband.

[jwcarguy]

That will work fine where you have it now
Just make sure that you are using a "strong" MAF sensor

[CSG]

^^^^huh???

The air flow is different in different areas of the pipe caused mostly by up and downstream turns. A lot of times you can clock the MAF and get slight surging to clear up. If not then the next step for me is usually installing one of the honeycomb straightning vane devices. Very cheap and work quite well. You have a good bit of up and down stream diameters so you should be able to get a good clean signal, maybe just like it is or maybe with some tweaking. The last connect & cruise I did needed a honeycomb screen, but several more that are pretty identical did not...

[badazz81z28]

Welded and done. What's a strong MAF? I just got the OEM part number called out by GM

[jwcarguy]

Welded and done. What's a strong MAF? I just got the OEM part number called out by GM


Strong vs weak maf :
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=291436&highlight=strong+maf

GM uses two supplier for Camaro SS MAF sensors. The simple explanation is that "weak" sensors from one of the suppliers are not showing the same resistance levels as the "strong" sensors from the other. Both work fine when the car remains stock but when additional airflow is introduced the "weak" sensor can start to become a problem.

The MAF sensors that have been identified as "weak" read 1560-1670HZ at idle with the A/C off while a "strong" MAF reads at 1800MHZ. During on road, light throttle input the MHZ are slow and weak in response to throttle changes which causes hesitation, throttle lag, and poor driveability. At wide open throttle the "weak" MAF shows 120-170MHZ lower than the 8600MHZ the "strong" MAF sensors will show on the same car. Depending on what intake modifications are made the fuel trim with a "weak" MAF can range from -25% on the high end to -3% with just a simple aftermarket panel replacement filter.

So what kind of performance issues will a "weak" MAF sensor present? Slow throttle response, low RPM bunking and surging, choppy idle, bogging when downshifting or applying quick heavy throttle inputs, and more. The good news is that all you have to do is pull the "weak" sensor and install a "strong" sensor and within seconds fuel trim is back to 0% and MHZ are back to 1800+. This will instantly change the personality of a car as was demonstrated in the threads below.

Issue SOLVED strong MAF (http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160124)

Strong MAF sensor. Believe the hype (http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=304720)


How can I tell if my MAF is "weak" or "strong"?

It is very simple. Remove the MAF sensor from your intake tube and take a look at the code inside the indented window. Any single letter MAF is "weak" and any MAF that features a letter followed by a number like the one in the picture below is "strong".

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gifhttps://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gifhttps://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/attachmentphpattachmentid268427stc1d1311-1.jpg

[Peter Mc Mahon]

I'm not saying I don't believe the strong vs weak thing, but, I work in the auto industry ( not gm) and deal in supplier issues all day long. Any part from 2 different suppliers must have 2 different part numbers for traceability reasons ( recalls etc)

[jwcarguy]

I'm not saying I don't believe the strong vs weak thing, but, I work in the auto industry ( not gm) and deal in supplier issues all day long. Any part from 2 different suppliers must have 2 different part numbers for traceability reasons ( recalls etc)

That may be a reason for part numbering, but this is a well known issue
check with most any reputable tuner/ builder

[badazz81z28]

Well that's my luck lol...mine has nothing in that window

[andrewb70]

I'm not saying I don't believe the strong vs weak thing, but, I work in the auto industry ( not gm) and deal in supplier issues all day long. Any part from 2 different suppliers must have 2 different part numbers for traceability reasons ( recalls etc)

Couldn't there be different internal part numbers and a single retail part number?

Andrew

[badazz81z28]

^^^ maybe it's a lot # thing, not part number. If there was a different manufacturer I would think the part # would be different. I see this all the time in the aircraft part world. Different manufacturers translate to a different part number but they do interchange and show cross referenced. If I buy a new one how would I know if I'm buying a strong one?

[Peter Mc Mahon]

Couldn't there be different internal part numbers and a single retail part number?

Andrew

Yes I believe that is very common Andrew, but as two different supplied parts going into a new build at gm I wouldn't think so. And again, not doubting the strong vs weak thing, but it sounds more like in spec and exceeds spec. I would hope GM wasn't out there installing weak out of spec MAF sensors in all these cars

[badazz81z28]

Bam!

[badazz81z28]

Supposed to be between 10 and 2 o'clock if I remember right. Moisture accumulation is the issue.

That position looks ok to me. I have done several roughly there with no surging etc. Maybe lose the accordion section and use a smooth elbow.

Don


Would putting my fresh air port on the bottom out of sight be an issue? I like the way it looks right now

[dhutton]

Would putting my fresh air port on the bottom out of sight be an issue? I like the way it looks right now

I would try to put it at 5 o'clock just to be sure moisture doesn't get sucked into the engine.

Don

[andrewb70]

I would try to put it at 5 o'clock just to be sure moisture doesn't get sucked into the engine.

Don

I have driven in pouring rain with my Cougar...just saying...

Andrew

[dhutton]

I have driven in pouring rain with my Cougar...just saying...

Andrew

I try to err on the side of caution when answering questions like this. Better safe than sorry. Just sayin..... :cheers:

Don

[badazz81z28]

How would enough water accumulate to get sucked up near the TB?