MonzaRacer
06-20-2017, 05:23 PM
So if I buy from current suppliers of performance parts, I would have well over $1400.
Now many say just throw stock engines in but I really am the hot rodder at heart.
So Series 2/3 3800 engines are short deck versions. Yeah I could use older Series 1 but I think it might cause issues when I move to an S/C.
So I'll probably work on buying a lower miles supercharged car, swap parts over and return. THEN yank current engine with rod knock and freshen IT up.
So I started looking around for a rod that might work, uses similar journal diameter.
So I started looking, and turns out I should be able to use a 4.3 rod, bearings journals are same. Just need to narrow rod a bit.
Certain aspects of this engine is they never made a factory forged piston they are all hyperutectic.
So I need a forged piston, 3.800 up to 0.030 May e 0.040 at largest. Prefer to stay smaller than 0.040 and I need as close to 1.110 deck height. Dish or flat top with 0 to 7 cc dish/eyebrows.
I am trying to get rid of positive deck stick out these engines run.
According to an old Buick Indy engineer the stick out is one reason they fought early engine failure.
The factory long rod is 5.740-5.745.
Well I found out the 4.3 rod is 5.7 but larger journal diameter. Same as Buick.
Now wrist pin for 4.3 is 0.927, but N/A Buick wrist pin is 0.866, S/C is 0.9058.
So found certain Ford 2300 pistons fit the bill, Also 0.020 5.3 ls 4" stroker piston also is perfect but can't get any larger than 3.800, so need best std 3800 block I can find.
Just trying to get forged pistons for as little as possible.
Rods I may use oem 4.3 with good bolts and narrowed , if cash wasn't issue I'd run Eagle rods.
Anyone got connections or ideas?
Just doing some pencil and paper gymnastics looking for cheaper parts. Guess I could offset bush 4.3 rods but doesn't get me more economical forged pistons. I was wondering if I am barking up wrong tree. But it is fun theory.
Now many say just throw stock engines in but I really am the hot rodder at heart.
So Series 2/3 3800 engines are short deck versions. Yeah I could use older Series 1 but I think it might cause issues when I move to an S/C.
So I'll probably work on buying a lower miles supercharged car, swap parts over and return. THEN yank current engine with rod knock and freshen IT up.
So I started looking around for a rod that might work, uses similar journal diameter.
So I started looking, and turns out I should be able to use a 4.3 rod, bearings journals are same. Just need to narrow rod a bit.
Certain aspects of this engine is they never made a factory forged piston they are all hyperutectic.
So I need a forged piston, 3.800 up to 0.030 May e 0.040 at largest. Prefer to stay smaller than 0.040 and I need as close to 1.110 deck height. Dish or flat top with 0 to 7 cc dish/eyebrows.
I am trying to get rid of positive deck stick out these engines run.
According to an old Buick Indy engineer the stick out is one reason they fought early engine failure.
The factory long rod is 5.740-5.745.
Well I found out the 4.3 rod is 5.7 but larger journal diameter. Same as Buick.
Now wrist pin for 4.3 is 0.927, but N/A Buick wrist pin is 0.866, S/C is 0.9058.
So found certain Ford 2300 pistons fit the bill, Also 0.020 5.3 ls 4" stroker piston also is perfect but can't get any larger than 3.800, so need best std 3800 block I can find.
Just trying to get forged pistons for as little as possible.
Rods I may use oem 4.3 with good bolts and narrowed , if cash wasn't issue I'd run Eagle rods.
Anyone got connections or ideas?
Just doing some pencil and paper gymnastics looking for cheaper parts. Guess I could offset bush 4.3 rods but doesn't get me more economical forged pistons. I was wondering if I am barking up wrong tree. But it is fun theory.