Front Suspension Help - CPP or Ridetech

[mtm87tx]

Guys its time to pull the trigger on my new front suspension.

I have a few questions:

What spindle should I use for my car? CPP C5 style or the Ridetech Drop Spindle? (I will be running wilwood brakes so I need to determine if I but C5 or ridetech)
I am planning on using the ridetech coil overs in my tubular arms (I don't know the brand yet) will this cause issues?
I am planning to replace the steering box with a CPP 500 series, is there any other parts in the front end I need to replace while I'm taking it apart?

Thanks

[dhutton]

I would go all Ridetech and add Tru-turn. I wouldn't touch a CPP steering box. Go with an AGR 12:1 box or go full on with a 600 box from Turn-One or Lee. CPP had a recent flagrant disregard for quality and safety with their tri-five pitman arms. Worries me about that company.

I would completely rebuild the steering if you are going to tear it down. Tie rod ends, idler arm etc.

Don

[Rod]

Guys its time to pull the trigger on my new front suspension.

I have a few questions:

What spindle should I use for my car? CPP C5 style or the Ridetech Drop Spindle? (I will be running wilwood brakes so I need to determine if I but C5 or ridetech)
I am planning on using the ridetech coil overs in my tubular arms (I don't know the brand yet) will this cause issues?
I am planning to replace the steering box with a CPP 500 series, is there any other parts in the front end I need to replace while I'm taking it apart?

Thanks

so my question is why are you mixing components? is it because of pricing? or do the components achieve the end goal for your project with the geometry needed? what are you going to do with the car?? show car? Autocross? daily?

1) CPP or Ridetech spindle...use ridetech the CPP isn't tall enough to help camber gain, and I haven't seen any discernable improvement using a C5 bearing over a standard bearing .....because most buy the cheapest 30 dollar bearing cartridge and they still fail....

2) most arms will need a T-bar in the lower shock mount, the ridetech arms use a double shear to hold the shock

3) CPP 500 series? never used one, never see a autocross car with one

4) replace all of it! Idler arm, tie rods, sleeves, or upgrade to a Tru-Turn and that replaces the drag link, tie rod ends, steering arms, sleeves, spindles, and fixes bump

if you have any questions I can walk you through parts and components, my shop is Suspension Geek (http://suspensiongeek.com/)

[mtm87tx]

I do not need to mix parts, price is always a concern for me but I like a good balance of price and quality where I think ridetech fits well (versus doing a entire subframe)

Good notes on the CPP box, that was very much a budget choice so I am glad to hear the feed back I will look at LEE.

Yes I will be doing the truturn as I want to do a 18x10 on the front with a 275. This will resolve the issue of most steering components I'm assuming.

[dhutton]

I do not need to mix parts, price is always a concern for me but I like a good balance of price and quality where I think ridetech fits well (versus doing a entire subframe)

Good notes on the CPP box, that was very much a budget choice so I am glad to hear the feed back I will look at LEE.

Yes I will be doing the truturn as I want to do a 18x10 on the front with a 275. This will resolve the issue of most steering components I'm assuming.

I went with a 255 upfront with Tru-turn. In theory they say a 275 will work but a lot of guys have tried and were unhappy. You can find threads on this forum and the other one. I think you have to absolutely nail the backspacing and run 1.5 deg of negative camber and use a 9.5" wheel. That is why I backed it off to a 255. No rubbing at all.

If you want to run a 275 on a 10 inch wheel up front then I would consider an aftermarket subframe.

Don

[BMR Sales]

What kind of car do you have?

[Josh@Ridetech]

It looks like the guys above have answered the big portion of your questions but I'll add to their info!

If you're wanting to fit a 275 on the front, the TruTurn will make that possible.

Our 48 Hour Camaro is dramatically low compared to most of our customers' cars so it took a little modifications on the inner fenders and fender lips than most. This car was built to be abused so everything possible was done to fit the largest wheel and tire combo on the factory subframe and keep things clear when it was dove into a corner. Here are some pictures of the work we did on our car.

On a 67/68, the fenders will need more modification. The 69 has more clearance to start with. Our fender lip:

141598

Inner fender pictures:

141599

141600

[ragtop1968rs]

I would go all ridetech. I have their whole setup on my 68 and run an 18x9 with 5.5bs and a 255. Fits perfect. Plus you get the best customer service out there.