Roll on paint jobs

[Bugzilla]

Hey everyone. I was cruising around on another forum and came across a thread about people who have rolled paint on to their vehicle instead of spraying it. The people who took their time ended up with a pretty good result. As of right now, I am currently in the middle of painting my Bug (rattle can and it looks decent so far). There is no way I am going to have a professional do it due to the cost of a good paint job. So, have any of you rolled on your paint? If so, do you have some good quality pictures you can post up? Maybe some pointers on how to do it? Brand of paint and thinner used? I am not looking to have a show car but just something that looks better then the rattle can. Thanks.

[jlcustomz]

I recently posted in the waterbourne vs solvent thread about using a couple of different professional waterbourne paints at work meant for professional home & commercial use. wasn't going to repost anything yet till I finished sanding & buffing on a couple of samples, but I did a quick rough color sand & hand buff on a sample today & it looked promising.

One is ppg breakthrough & the other, which I sprayed today is Sherwin Williams pro all surface acrylic. As I mentioned , this is NOT like latex house paint. Just for laughs & possibly to your benefit, I found a little cheap wagner turbine sprayer someone left at work & tried it out. With the all surface paint unthinned &the paint flow set about halfway, it covered white with a custom bronze in one coat . As this was first time with a cheap sprayer I'd usually never use, had a few runs on 1 commercial window stop part I was spraying. Set in in sun just a few minutes & was able to immediately sand & respray. Finish was ok for what I needed here, but with 2 or 3 light to medium spray coats, it could be sanded & buffed.

Both products would be much cheaper if you could use a professional accountholders name & just pay for it yourself. ( Ace Door Service, Jacksonville Florida).

You could roll these on , but I'd look into a cheap turbine sprayer like I mentioned or an old fashioned pneumatic sprayer meant for latex, which pressurizes the canister & can spray heavier paint.
Also whether spraying or rolling, you can use a paint conditioner meant for waterbourne paint, such as flowtrol. This slows initial dry time & makes it flow out better. Also reduces drag with a brush & stiction with a roller.

For a quick temporary paint job on some ground effects years ago I tried dupli-color engine ceramic paint in rattle cans & sanded & buffed it to a quality black mirror finish.. Looked great for a little while, but failed after a little occasional sun exposure. Rust oleum enamel also failed after a few years. The industrial waterbourne acrylics I mentioned could be in useable shape well beyond 20 years on a building, so I think it's a good choice for what you want.
Sound worth a look??

If you need a little more advice on it, you can bug me about it, no pun intended.

[minendrews68]

I personally think you should look into painting your VW yourself. If you messed it up, I don't think it could look as bad as a rolled on paint job. I remember the first car I painted. scared to death and it looked really good, despite the fact it was straight enamel! I'm saying try it. Go to Harbor Freight, buy a cheap gun and go for it..

[Bugzilla]

Awesome info. Thank you a bunch. I am going to look in to the paint that you mentioned. I have read that a lot of people have used rustoleum with a good outcome as well. Probably cause its cheap though. I already have 2 spray guys. Just a generic top feeder that hooks up to the air compressor and another that is meant for house paint and is electric. My problem is that I dont want to use them cause of all the over spray. My garage is already a solid layer of white and many other parts that I have painted have a nice white dusting on them too. And I am too lazy to build a paint booth. So thats why I wanted to try rolling it on. Less prep work but more sanding. Everything I have left to paint is removable from the Bug which helps. I would love to see how your samples turn out so please post them. I am going to finish painting the Bug the same way I have been doing but I am considering it to be a good base coat for better paint, not long term. Thanks for the offer as well. The Bug and I will be bugging you.

[Bugzilla]

I personally think you should look into painting your VW yourself. If you messed it up, I don't think it could look as bad as a rolled on paint job. I remember the first car I painted. scared to death and it looked really good, despite the fact it was straight enamel! I'm saying try it. Go to Harbor Freight, buy a cheap gun and go for it..

Sorry didnt see this before I posted. I do have a spray gun and I have use it before for other projects. My above post says why I dont want to use it. And paint is more expensive. Here is what it looks like now. Just flat white. Not the best picture I know... need more daylight!

Dont mind that black circle on the right. Something is stuck in my camera lens.

140892

[beater65]

I believe it was HOT ROD magazine did a full very detailed article on rolling on paint to a car.

They made it look very nice. They really spent a significant amount of time on prep work and details that made it nice. But time is free... Goal hear obviously was minimizing cost.

I couldn't find actual article with a quick search. But it was from July 2007- $98 dollar roller paint job

[beater65]

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/hrdp-0707-1962-ford-falcon-budget-paint-job/

[andrewb70]

I think self-applied wrap would look way better.

Andrew

[expensivehobby22]

There are a number of threads on steelsoldiers.com discussing using Behr exterior paint for the exterior of their military trucks. Probably not quite the finish you are looking for, since they are typically trying to match the flat non-smooth texture of original military paint, but interesting nonetheless.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?76210-Behr-Paint-Jobs-Show-me-your-MV-s

[Bugzilla]

I believe it was HOT ROD magazine did a full very detailed article on rolling on paint to a car.

They made it look very nice. They really spent a significant amount of time on prep work and details that made it nice. But time is free... Goal hear obviously was minimizing cost.

I couldn't find actual article with a quick search. But it was from July 2007- $98 dollar roller paint job

I did read that article. That is what gave me some inspiration to roll it on. They just dont show any good close up pictures of the final product so it hard to really tell how the finish came out.


I think self-applied wrap would look way better.

Andrew

Yes I do too. But I thought that the paint had to be smooth and shiny for it to stick good? Not a matte finish like I have. Even at that, can you imagine trying to wrap a Bug? Everything is round! Would not be fun.

[Bugzilla]

There are a number of threads on steelsoldiers.com discussing using Behr exterior paint for the exterior of their military trucks. Probably not quite the finish you are looking for, since they are typically trying to match the flat non-smooth texture of original military paint, but interesting nonetheless.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?76210-Behr-Paint-Jobs-Show-me-your-MV-s

Nah thats a bit too rough of a finish for the Bug. Would work out good on my Jeep though!

[LowFast]

What about if you just prime the whole thing to protect the metal and self spray the "plasti dip" type material. Supposed to be more forgiving than paint for a DYI and cheaper as well, and if later you tire of it, just peel it off and do something else.

[JustJohn]

I did read that article. That is what gave me some inspiration to roll it on. They just dont show any good close up pictures of the final product so it hard to really tell how the finish came out.



Yes I do too. But I thought that the paint had to be smooth and shiny for it to stick good? Not a matte finish like I have. Even at that, can you imagine trying to wrap a Bug? Everything is round! Would not be fun.

I wrapped my Ducati in vinyl. No lack of compound curves there and it has (had) a matte paint finish.
140928

[Bugzilla]

What about if you just prime the whole thing to protect the metal and self spray the "plasti dip" type material. Supposed to be more forgiving than paint for a DYI and cheaper as well, and if later you tire of it, just peel it off and do something else.

Not a huge fan of that stuff. And that would mean I have to tape and bag the entire car again which is what I am trying to avoid. If I have to do that, I might as well use real paint in a gun.


I wrapped my Ducati in vinyl. No lack of compound curves there and it has (had) a matte paint finish.
140928

That looks nice! For the front fender, did you only use 1 piece? That does not look like it was fun. Any close up pictures?

[Bugzilla]

So at this point here is what I have come up with.

Roll paint on -
Pros - Dirt cheap and easy to do. Decent looking when done.
Con - Lots and lots of sanding and multiple layers of paint.

Vinyl wrap -
Pros - Looks like a real paint job
Cons - Not too cheap and will be a nightmare to put on. Cant do it by myself.

Plasti-dip -
Pros - Easy to paint and removable if needed.
Cons - Have to tape off the entire car. Not the cheapest option but still affordable.

Spray it the right way -
Pros - The best looking finish and most durable
Cons - Tons of prep work. Have to tape off the entire car. Would be best to build a garage paint station. Supplies can be expensive.

Rattle can -
Pros - Wont cost anything since I have the cans. I only have a few panels left to do.
Cons - Worst finish of all other choices. Not the most durable. Will fade the fastest.

[andrewb70]

I think there is another options. I know this will sound terrible, but what about places like Maaco? I have heard that if you do the prep work and take off what you don't want painted, the end results can be pretty decent and relatively inexpensive...

Andrew

[Bugzilla]

I think there is another options. I know this will sound terrible, but what about places like Maaco? I have heard that if you do the prep work and take off what you don't want painted, the end results can be pretty decent and relatively inexpensive...

Andrew

I have heard the same thing. I had a buddy get his truck painted by a cheap shop like Maaco and the outcome was pretty good. There was just over spray EVERYWHERE! That is what I am afraid of. Everything else on the car is painted and I would prefer not to have to redo it again.

[Yukon Cornelius]

Maaco near me closed at least 5 years ago. Is Maaco and Earl Scheib still in business?

[jlcustomz]

Installed another house entrance door today I did with the PPG breakthrough paint, lipstick red & white. Customer was initially unhappy that the red wasn't as dark as she expected seeing the door at a distance, but fell in love with it seeing it up close. Both colors of red I did in this paint are really vibrant colors.
Didn't have time today to better sand & buff my samples, but I did check adhesion on them. The ppg was superior to the other paint I mentioned on adhesion. Stuck great to a sample of stainless sheet barely scuffed with 400 grit, NO primer. I paid less than 50 a gallon for it with a commercial cash account& saw it on the internet for a little over 60, which is still far cheaper than a gal of rust oleum which I've had lose adhesion & fail. I still think it could be the best choice for you. Even if you rolled it adding some paint conditioner, you could sand & buff it easier than many other paints. If you messed up & oversanded a spot, so what , just re-roll & start over. As with any paint I'd sample & practice on something else first. With a quick dry waterbourne paint, humidity & temps make a huge difference on dry time. You'd actually be better off doing when damp such as raining outside , provided your area is free from bugs & dust isn't blowing in.
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=ppg+breakthrough&spf=1496457324534

Check out some of the professional painters comments on the paint forum sites. Tough enough to use on concrete floor, etc. One painter mentioned using a small amount of mineral spirits can smooth it out & not affect it adversely. Waterbourne paints will take over someday.

[TheJDMan]

Check out Alsa Corp. They make a number of unique finishes and wraps.

http://alsacorp.com/

[minendrews68]

Set yourself a realistic budget, and see what you can do with the amount of money you have budgeted.

[Bugzilla]

Set yourself a realistic budget, and see what you can do with the amount of money you have budgeted.

I am not the type of person who sets a budget. Whatever it cost to do it right is the budget. If I dont have enough money at the time, I wait until I do. I like doing things right the first time even if it takes longer. But having said that, I have dumped around 20k in the Bug so far and paint is the one thing I am willing to cheap out on. Again, its not a show car, its a race car. Nice paint doesnt help lap times.

[andrewb70]

Maaco near me closed at least 5 years ago. Is Maaco and Earl Scheib still in business?

https://www.maaco.com

Honestly, for a race car, I would try to spray it myself. Get an inexpensive gun, pick some decent single stage paint, do the prep and taping and have at it.

Andrew

[beater65]

I am not the type of person who sets a budget. Whatever it cost to do it right is the budget. If I dont have enough money at the time, I wait until I do. I like doing things right the first time even if it takes longer. But having said that, I have dumped around 20k in the Bug so far and paint is the one thing I am willing to cheap out on. Again, its not a show car, its a race car. Nice paint doesnt help lap times.

I am voting for Maaco on this after looking at your situation/options.

This will allow you not to have to build a booth and setup in your garage etc. Do your own prep work, pull everything off that will make things easier and nicer, like headlights/trim/doorhandles and such.

Take good pic of car and go to your local shop. Explain clearly what you expectations are.. IE cheap will be single stage or you can foot bill for base/clear. and that you want them to do good masking work. CAGE/FRAME/jambs to be done well. and any other stipulations that you have. And get a quote.

Less you ask for, the cheaper it is. I've seen nice work from Maaco. and ive seen emblems/trim/door handles painted over from them too...

Just be clear and detailed about your expectations. You can pay to have it done nicely and still be fairly cheap imo. You car looks nice, so basically you are going to pay for masking time, and paint. Provided you bring it in scuffed correctly with 400 and and bodywork issues are done etc.

[67rally]

Just roll it on. That seems like the answer you are looking for.

[Bugzilla]

Thank you everyone for the comments and suggestions. I am still voting for rolling it on. Seeing that my Bug is nothing ordinary, I think a roll on paint job would fit in nicely. I am going to see how my rattle can job turns out first (I am almost done with it anyways) before I make a final decision on what direction I am going to go. There is a good chance I will have it done sometime next week. Once its done, I will post some pictures on this thread to see what everyone thinks.

[bs46488]

What part of SoCal are you in?

Look at some of those mobile painters in the LA/SD/Inland Empire area. I've gotten a few quotes from them about doing stages of my project (all the body work and primer, panel painting primed body panels, etc). Some places will also do full paint jobs at their shops for $2-3k

[Bugzilla]

I am out in San Bernardino. $2-3k is more then I would want to spend. At that point, I would just attempt to paint it myself. Again, not looking to have a show car or show quality paint. We will say I am looking more for a "10 footer" paint job. Good from far but far from good haha.