Solid mounting the body to the frame

[Protour_Pinto]

Since I will be doing the body swap soon I was going to get all new body isolators since mine are shot.
I was trying to think of reasons why I shouldn't just bolt it down to the frame and omitting the isolators all together and just bolting it hard and fast to the frame.
The drivetrain is rubber mounted, The cage will be welded to the shell and connected to the frame anyways.

Having no isolators will also set the body lower hiding the frame and not needing to extend the rockers is a plus too.
I am just trying to think is there any reason I shouldn't do it?

[David Pozzi]

I think you are correct. The only consideration is clearance issues that may come up.

[Protour_Pinto]

Cool! With the engine being in the back and the rad in the front the coolant pipes will be the biggest things running front to back and I will be running smaller diameter pipes anyways.

[jaybee]

Another alternative is pucks hole sawed out of Ultra High Molecular Weight (UMHW) plastic. The stuff is pretty inexpensive, available in various thicknesses, and high durometer. It's also resistant to oil and gas. You probably have a white cutting board made from the stuff in your kitchen.

[kimosabi]

Mounting the body lower on the frame would solve a few headaches on my car. Watch the driveline angles if your car is a front frame only.

[Nativefx]

You would also have to be aware of your wheel BS and what you want to fit, correct? I know a few guys who were running the half height body mounts and then struggled getting wheels to fit. I'd also think it might affect motor mounts, trans mount, and clearances for steering box and headers, no?

[Skip Fix]

Fan shrouds and Shaker scoops get messed up dropping core support and body down on frame. Motor/fan is set height on frame shroud and radiator on the body/core support.

[Protour_Pinto]

Fan shrouds and Shaker scoops get messed up dropping core support and body down on frame. Motor/fan is set height on frame shroud and radiator on the body/core support.

Thanks for the replys. I dont think anything is going to be effected as far as engine goes.

The wheels are pretty much wider than the body for the most part so that is going to be met with a sazall and welder

The driveline angles are pretty much self contained.

Im pretty sure even with bushings in the mounts I will have to blister the hood for the struts.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/03/20170304_143157_zps1xbl2aqe-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/03/20170304_143301_zpsqraypnrz-1.jpg

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