70 mustang build questions

[devojrx7]

I am about to start on my 70 mustang Mach 1. I'm looking for some guidance on which way to go with the suspension. I will be going with a coyote 5.0 and possibly a blower down the road. Looking for north of 500 at the wheels. I'd like to minitub the car to fit enough tire and delete the shock towers in the front. I've considered a full chassis like Roadster Shop, Art Morrison, or Schwartz Performance, but my car is extremely rust free and I don't know about cutting it up that much. I've looked at the systems like Total Cost Involved with the torque arm and their pro touring IFS front or Roadster Shop's IFS subframe. I plan to drive this car often and race some autocross and maybe a few track days here and there.

Does anyone have any experience with any of these systems?
If my unibody is in really good shape how much chassis stiffness/handling will I gain going with a full chassis as opposed to a front subframe and a 4 link or torque arm rear with subframe connectors?
I'm not looking to do a $100,000 build at this point, but I don't want to hinder myself down the road by skimping on the important stuff in the beginning. The exterior body work is all done and the car is in primer, just needs blocked and painted. It does have some slight rust in the front corners of both floor pans, so those will have to be replaced at some point anyway.

Thank you so much for any help and guidance you can give me.
Jeff

[Josh@Ridetech]

Our four link kit will bolt into the rear of the car with no issues at all (with or without mini tubs) and then you can use our coilovers as well.

http://www.ridetech.com/store/1964-1970-ford-mustang-airbar.html

Unfortunately, I don't build a kit to delete the strut towers in the front if you're set on doing that, we still utilize the factory strut towers with our kit. We have a bolt on control arm setup that will go directly on to the factory frame and allow the use of coilovers.

http://www.ridetech.com/store/product-3294.html <--- whole kit shown in this link

[Josh@Ridetech]

Our four link kit will bolt into the rear of the car with no issues at all (with or without mini tubs) and then you can use our coilovers as well.

http://www.ridetech.com/store/1964-1970-ford-mustang-airbar.html

Unfortunately, I don't build a kit to delete the strut towers in the front if you're set on doing that, we still utilize the factory strut towers with our kit. We have a bolt on control arm setup that will go directly on to the factory frame and allow the use of coilovers.

http://www.ridetech.com/store/product-3294.html <--- whole kit shown in this link


If you do get rid of the shock towers and go with a different IFS, you could use our coilovers in that front setup so you have matching shocks all around. TCI and Roadster shop are both use our coilovers/shockwaves so it wouldn't be too hard to figure out what you need in those situations either.

[devojrx7]

Thanks Josh. I'd at the very least have to notch the shock towers, and really deleting them is less cutting because as I understand it you can just drill out all the spot weldes and take them out as one piece.

What are the advantages/disadvantages of a 4 link over a torsion rear?

[Sales-TCI-Eng]

Thank you for considering TCI for your Mustang. We've done a lot of testing with the Wilwood Coyote powered Mustang. It has our P/T IFS & Torque Arm rear with 13" Wilwoods and Ridetech triple adjustables front/rear. That car is a heck of a lot of fun and sounds incredible.

Our VP (Sal) driving at the Columbus Goodguys.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GCbbLJtdFE

Maier driving it at Del Mar. Love the intake sound.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_xGPbxvpEPk

Mike 'Hambone' Hamrick driving it in Vegas.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4bk44wuDqY

[devojrx7]

How wide of a rear wheel/tire will fit with your torque arm suspension? How bout in the front? How much structural rigidity is lost when you delete the shock towers? What do you recommend to make up for this? Any pics of that coyote in the engine bay on that TCI car? Thanks.

[Sales-TCI-Eng]

How wide of a rear wheel/tire will fit with your torque arm suspension? How bout in the front? How much structural rigidity is lost when you delete the shock towers? What do you recommend to make up for this? Any pics of that coyote in the engine bay on that TCI car? Thanks.

The existing T/A kit allows up to a 295 tire on a post '67 car. We're currently designing a "mini-tub" specific kit to work with Alston's or DSE's tubs. Which will allow you to run their specs on wheels/tires. The car is currently on a rotisserie in R&D. Final product will be 60-90 days out.

We actually add rigidity to the frame by adding 20" long boxing plates. We also replace the shock towers with solid panels making the axial load better as well. The load is now carried on the frame so no more side loading of the panel.

Here is the build thread for the Wilwood car. https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/91267-Wilwoods-Coyote-Powered-66-Mustang-quot-WildHorse-quot?

[devojrx7]

I am very interested in the mini tub kit!

Is the 20" long boxing plate something that is part of the kit, or something that you added extra?

[Sales-TCI-Eng]

I am very interested in the mini tub kit!

Is the 20" long boxing plate something that is part of the kit, or something that you added extra?

They are part of the kit and a location device for the crossmember. Check out the manual starting at page 5 http://totalcostinvolved.com/wp-content/themes/tci/assets/products/pdfs/64-70_Ford_Mustang_FE.pdf

[devojrx7]

Well here goes nothing! I placed my deposit today for TCI's stage 3 tax month special with their new mini tub torsion rear end. Apparently mine will be the first kit after the prototype is finished. Here's to hoping there aren't any hiccups. Thanks to Jason for taking me into it and helping set up the deal with their tax month special. Now I just need an efi tank and pump, coyote motor and harness, and some wheels to fit over these 13" brakes.