Rebuilt engine sat unused for 11 years - What should I do before using?

[Joe_Rocket]

I have a small block chevy that was built in 2006 and sat in the garage all these years wrapped in plastic. I haven't done anything to it except for periodically turning the crank a bit every few months. I want to finally put it in the car. What do I need to worry about? Anything that should warrant tearing it down and replacing gaskets or seals? Or?

[LS6 Tommy]

My engine's been on a stand for a while, too. Subscribing!

Tommy

[TheJDMan]

I assume whoever assembled it was smart enough to use proper assembly lube and it has been sealed from dirt while stored. If so then just install it and before you stab the distributor, prime the oil pump with a drill before starting it for the first time. Gaskets and seals should be unaffected since they last for years in service. Since you said you have rotated it periodically you probably won't have any rust on the cylinder walls but I would spray some WD40 in through the plug holes before starting just to be safe.

[JohnUlaszek]

Probably worth looking at the cylinder walls to see if there is any rust. I've heard rust could prevent the rings on a new motor from sealing properly.

[Koupe68]

It wouldn't hurt to spray some PB Blaster or equivalent down the plug holes, let it soak then hand rotate the assembly. Last thing you need is piston or ring damage on start up. I have a borescope from Harbor Freight I use to inspect cylinder walls with when I'm at the wrecking yards looking for donor engines...

[flynlo39]

You can almost be assured at minimum there will be some surface rust on the cylinder walls after that amount of time. Mix a small amount of WD40 with transmission fluid and pour it into each cylinder. If you don't have it on an engine stand where you can put the cylinder banks level with the ground then get one of those metal hand pump squirt cans and squirt the mixture in so it gets up on the high side of the pistons so you get complete coverage, let it soak for a couple days and rotate the engine a few full revolutions. Do this periodically until you install the engine. Before firing the engine try to get as much of the excess trans fluid out as you can. Don't need to get it all out...it will just smoke for a few minutes when you fire it up. No biggie.

[Artisan Motoworks Club]

i would pull the distributor and either use a drill and an old distributor shaft or https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-130-8802?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-arp&gclid=CKG8vZuztNICFZWEswodjGMPaQ oil primer kit. Install a mechanical oil pressure gauge and make sure you got 30-40 psi. If you ran a large lift camshaft.. plus 600 lift i would pull the valve springs and check them. better to be safe than sorry. If it was a normal build i would not worry.

[carbuff]

I had one which sat for 5 years. I installed and drove it ok for about 6 months. First trip to the chassis dyno, first pull, it broke a valve spring around 4500 rpm (not high). After posting about this, I was told by multiple sources that after that long, I should have replaced the valve springs.

Now you mention that your turned the engine over once in a while. Did you go back to the same spot it was before you started turning?

After my experience, I would replace the springs. You may be just fine, but dropping a valve sucks...