View Full Version : few last min questions on my LS3 swap
408maro
12-30-2016, 12:28 PM
finishing up my LS3 swapfrom a 14' Camaro in my 72' Camaro and have a few questions i may add on later but for those that have went through this/know,would be helpful so i can clarify on a few things..
i see that these dont have a actual PCV or at least on mine i cant find it. i see that the passenger side valve cover has a capped vent tube,driver side valve cover has a capped vent tube and out of the valley cover to the tb has a hose connected..
if i was to add in a catch can how would be best to route it?
can i just cap off the coolant pipe on driver side next to TB or should i just buy the actual plugs for the crossover pipe
whats the male fuel quick disconnect size that i can plug into the fuel rail from my current efi tank hose?
last main question really is how to wire the starter on this thing, these starters have 1 stud and a connector, i have a AAW full wiring harness and have removed all wires from car harness except for the red battery and purple starter wire
do i just plug the red wire from car harness to the stud and purple to the connector, and cable from alternator to the stud, and the battery itself to that stud... so making a total of 3 cables to the stud on starter and 1 to the connector?
sorry if i confused anyone
thanks for the help
icemanrd19
12-30-2016, 01:08 PM
catch can mine goes from passenger side throttle body to catch can and valley cover to catch can.
Why are you capping the vent pipe? Coolant vent tube runs to the radiator. If you don't have a radiator with a extra port by a vent tube connector that connects to the radiator hose that finch performance sells or rap your water pump. I would buy the adapter if i was you.
pretty sure its a 3/8. i would prefer the 90 degree angle one if i was you. Its your personal preference. http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1613923-fuel-rail-adapter-direct-hose.html
purple wire goes to the smaller terminal on the starter, i have all my alternator wire going to the bulkhead connector which is connected to the big lug on the starter. So jogging my memory the cars red wire and alternator wire and battery wire would all be connected to the same spot on the alternator.
rallystyle
12-30-2016, 01:08 PM
from pass side cover to intake tube. leave the pass cover capped http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/testing/3235879-edelbrock-ls3-wet-sump-catch-can-installation.html
catch can from valley cover tube that has the pvc built in to intake manifold port on pass side. there should be a u hose there now.
the coolant pipe should be plumbed in to the coolant system weather you tap the wp or put a fitting in the upper hose or the radiator.
the fuel rail should be a 3/8 disconnect at the rail.
the starter still uses the purple wire as the start wire. you can run the alt and red wire to the battery if you want it does not have to go the the starter.
icemanrd19
12-30-2016, 01:10 PM
https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/117816-gpmm-ls3-controller-help/page2
post 27. Trust me i was overthinking it. Very easy and simple
408maro
12-30-2016, 03:10 PM
nice!!
thanks for the link.
i will use that corvette forum as reference for routing my catch can that looks good.
also iceman thank you for the post as that is pretty much what i need to do!!
where did that coolant crossover pipe go to? the radiator?
i know on the ls1 the rears can be blocked with the lil plugs what is wrong with doing that?
ill look into the finch performance.. havent heard of that
dhutton
12-30-2016, 03:25 PM
Your LS conversion radiator should have a connection for the steam vent. Don't block it off, connect it to your radiator.
Don
408maro
12-30-2016, 03:39 PM
thanks for the reply Don,
got it now!!
i can just run a hose from the open tube on the crossover to the nipple on the radiator..
thank you
71RS/SS396
12-31-2016, 10:48 AM
You really should use all 4 of the steam vents on the heads or you run the risk of causing air pockets in the rear cylinders.
408maro
12-31-2016, 11:07 AM
i believe the rears are already blocked on each head and the fronts have the crossover which ill run to the radiator now..
dhutton
12-31-2016, 11:22 AM
You really should use all 4 of the steam vents on the heads or you run the risk of causing air pockets in the rear cylinders.
GMPP crate LS3 engines come with the rear ports capped. I think this is the way GM does it now.
Don
Chad-1stGen
12-31-2016, 12:15 PM
GMPP crate LS3 engines come with the rear ports capped. I think this is the way GM does it now.
Don
Correct.
Make sure the front steam line goes to a high spot on the radiator. Also, ensure that when you fill the cooling system that the engine is filled to the steam vent line before you fill the radiator above that spot. You can do this by feeding coolant slowly into the radiator OR by filling the engine through the upper radiator hose.
Also, regarding the fuel rail disconnect I recommend you purchase the one that has a metal threaded collar rather than the standard plastic spring clip. The second one down on this page rather than the first. http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/adapter-fittings/specialty-fuel-injected.shtml
71RS/SS396
12-31-2016, 04:20 PM
Having the rear steam ports blocked on a stock engine that doesn't see serious abuse is ok. Once you start increasing the power and using the engine hard you're asking for trouble, it allows air pockets to form in the water jackets in those cylinders and not cool them as well as they should be, which will promote detonation. The water jackets are pretty bad on the ends of the heads and don't flow very well, I've cut heads apart to look at the jackets. Do what you want, but you're tempting fate.
408maro
12-31-2016, 05:42 PM
chad thank you for the recommendation i truly appreciate that aswell and will go that route
Tim, i can see your point, i dont plan on increasing anything in the near future but when i get to that point can address the rear ports..
thank you
71RS/SS396
01-01-2017, 05:46 AM
chad thank you for the recommendation i truly appreciate that aswell and will go that route
Tim, i can see your point, i dont plan on increasing anything in the near future but when i get to that point can address the rear ports..
thank you
When you're ready to plumb it the safe way we sell these kits that collect the air in a block. http://kurturbanperformance.net/home/product/vapor-vent-system/#
408maro
01-02-2017, 07:40 AM
Thank you. Looks like a very solid piece...
Just to also clarify on size for fuel line this is the line off the fuel rail I plan to run off of.. thanks
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/01/20170102_073759_zpsxyn4cua6-1.jpg (http://s296.photobucket.com/user/408maro1/media/20170102_073759_zpsxyn4cua6.jpg.html)
Chad-1stGen
01-02-2017, 09:12 AM
I ran 3/8". I also flipped the fuel rail on the intake so the feed line all stayed on the passenger side and I didn't have a big loop over the top like that picture.
408maro
01-02-2017, 09:17 AM
Thanks chad.. wow didn't even know I could do that to be hinest... that's a great idea
408maro
01-02-2017, 10:06 AM
Also reading back through the post I will be bypassing the starter as much as possible..
I'll run the psi harness and main battery to starter as needed..
I'll run main red AAW bulkhead wire to the battery and alternator wire to battery..
There is a additional red wire off the alternator 4 pin plug (main wire on plug is to rest of psi harness) that I am not sure where to put it...
Does this go to battery to?
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