1968 Camaro convert to disc brakes

[32deucecoupe]

I have a 68 Camaro factory drum brake car that I will convert to Disc front and rear and have three questions that I need help on. I understand most will want to stuff the biggest brake in there that is possible but for what will be a street driven car 98% of the time I don’t know that that makes sense financially for the use the car will be seeing. I will probably run 17” wheels or smaller based on budget. For every dollar I spend the longer it takes for this ride to come to completion. I will be using Ride tech spindles up front.

1. Are there advantages of one MFG over the other for a daily driver? The two kits I am looking at are listed below for the front with the matching rears. Pad availability etc..
a. Wilwood 12” 4 piston 140-10510-Z
b. Baer 11" 4piston SS4+

2. Do the rear disc need to be the same size as the front or is this more of an aesthetic issue? Is a rear 11” rotor adequate based on the amount of braking the rear will encounter if the front has 12" rotors?

3. I see some cars are running manual disc brakes only versus power disc brakes and are happy with the feel. is this a good way to go.

Any helpful advice is appreciated, I have read a lot of threads and if this has already been discussed please share the thread so I am not wasting the groups time. Thanks..

[ccmc]

Go to kore3.com he is knowledgeable and can guide you. You should look into the LS1 brakes or corvette brakes for your car. I converted to the LS1 4th gen camaro 4 wheel disc system for about 600.00 total. And that's with conversion ss lines from kore3 and new rotors and pads from Napa Auto. And I am running 17" billet specialties Street lites.

Rick

[Josh@Ridetech]

I will be using Ride tech spindles up front.

1. Are there advantages of one MFG over the other for a daily driver? The two kits I am looking at are listed below for the front with the matching rears. Pad availability etc..
a. Wilwood 12” 4 piston 140-10510-Z
b. Baer 11" 4piston SS4+

2. Do the rear disc need to be the same size as the front or is this more of an aesthetic issue? Is a rear 11” rotor adequate based on the amount of braking the rear will encounter if the front has 12" rotors?

3. I see some cars are running manual disc brakes only versus power disc brakes and are happy with the feel. is this a good way to go.



Baer and Wilwood both build a kit that will bolt directly up to our spindles, that won't be a problem at all. Either way you go, you'll be getting good quality parts. I'm running Baer's T4's and SS4's on my car and they're by far the nicest brakes I've ever had.

If you're building a car primarily for street use, I personally don't think the need for equal size rotors in the rear is a necessity. If you're wanting a race car, the bigger brakes in the rear are definitely going to benefit you in the autocross/roadcourse/speedstop.

Typically, power brakes are seen more on street builds but some guys will do manual brakes to get rid of the ugly booster in the engine bay. Some racers like the pedal feel of manual brakes and some don't. It's just a personal preference of one over the other.

[32deucecoupe]

Thanks for the quick responses, I will look into the KORE 3 brakes as well before making a decision as the $600 is very appealing.

Rick, do you have picks of your car with the Street lites or a build thread?

[32deucecoupe]

Read thru your project fox build, nice car Josh. Hopefully by July mine will be on the road..

[ccmc]

Here's a link to my craigslist ad since it's for sale :) there are a couple of pictures of the brakes and wheels.

http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/5920601026.html

[nats68]

I put the Wilwood Forged Dynalite in 12" front and rear on my 68 Camaro build and really like them.
The car is street driven and will probably never see the track.
I did go with a power booster but like others have said, that's personal preference.

[32deucecoupe]

Did you go with the wilwood master cylinder and booster?

[nats68]

Did you go with the wilwood master cylinder and booster?

I used the Wilwood master with a Right Stuff 9" booster and Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve.
I got all the parts from Matts Classic Bowties. They can answer any questions you have.

[Rod]

I have a 68 Camaro factory drum brake car that I will convert to Disc front and rear and have three questions that I need help on. I understand most will want to stuff the biggest brake in there that is possible but for what will be a street driven car 98% of the time I don’t know that that makes sense financially for the use the car will be seeing. I will probably run 17” wheels or smaller based on budget. For every dollar I spend the longer it takes for this ride to come to completion. I will be using Ride tech spindles up front.

1. Are there advantages of one MFG over the other for a daily driver? The two kits I am looking at are listed below for the front with the matching rears. Pad availability etc..
a. Wilwood 12” 4 piston 140-10510-Z
b. Baer 11" 4piston SS4+

2. Do the rear disc need to be the same size as the front or is this more of an aesthetic issue? Is a rear 11” rotor adequate based on the amount of braking the rear will encounter if the front has 12" rotors?

3. I see some cars are running manual disc brakes only versus power disc brakes and are happy with the feel. is this a good way to go.

Any helpful advice is appreciated, I have read a lot of threads and if this has already been discussed please share the thread so I am not wasting the groups time. Thanks..


ok I see many opinions and lots of advice....here is my two cents....baer pads are basicly corvette design and can be purchased over the counter, raybestos make some, willwood are order only stuff .....my Camaro (Plain Jane) uses the cpp Corvette C5 brake setup (not there spindle one) in the front and The Right Stuff 11" setup on the back along with The right Stuffs booster/master and proportioning valve, I use baer Brake pads in the front and raybestos ceramics on the rear, the car has competed in at least 11 major events a year and has amased 50 thousand street miles in the last 7 years and I have changed the rotors (front and rear) twice during that life cycle ...I think as a daily i would still be on the same rotors for the 7 years without the races no need for overkill on a street car.......but build what you want...here is my car

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/12/051optimaultimatestreetcar1968camaro_zps-1.jpg (http://s1195.photobucket.com/user/RodneyProuty/media/plain%20jane/051-optima-ultimate-street-car-1968-camaro_zpsxic1dsqf.jpg.html)

[1989GTA]

Rod, the Right Stuff rear brakes on your Camaro are they the 11" rotor and the say 1978 Eldorado assembly?

[32deucecoupe]

Rod, Thanks for the advice, have followed your build over the last couple of years and your car has come a long ways. Smart choices and spending money where it makes the most bang is the path I am trying to follow.

Thanks everyone for your input, I certainly appreciate members passing on their lessons learned which is what these forums are all about.

[Rod]

Rod, the Right Stuff rear brakes on your Camaro are they the 11" rotor and the say 1978 Eldorado assembly?

that is correct and ALWAY get the drill slot option! works better

[Josh@Ridetech]

Read thru your project fox build, nice car Josh. Hopefully by July mine will be on the road..

Thanks alot! They definitely take time. There's always a big sigh of relief when you are finally able to get behind the wheel. :cheers:

[Pete68]

Go used C5 or LS camaro brakes. Parts will always be easy to find and they will be very reliable over the long run.

[Guado1]

I know this is an old thread but I am right at this point. I have dynalites readybfront and rear but the master and booster baffle me. Do you remember what part# or sizes you purchased?

Thanks,
Eddie