Pro touring F body comp kit vs ridetech level 2

[yellow1098Greg]

So I know actual hardware differences between these 2 kits.

Ridtech -rear 4 link and poly bushings
PTFB - Torktrax leaf springs and hardware w/spherical bearing

whats the rideheight and feel differance? Is one better at handling power?

upper and lower control arms.....ridetech kit comes with them and PTFB comp kit does not
feel and other important differences between the two

coilovers and shocks.....
ridetech -single adjustable
PTFB -19 pos adjustable aluminum

total price differnace
ridetech-$3,500
ptfb -$1,400 control arms...front $420 rear $580 total $2,400

differnace $1,000

i was just looking for the rear world and feel differnace between the 2 kits....I know from reading, everyone says the 4link provides a great benefit over the leaf springs ...but what is that really? Same question with the coil overs ...what differance am I going to feel and notice? Maybe some of guys that have driven cars with both setups can speak to that...honestly, the money difference isn't as much as I thought but maybe one is much more superior to other. If the vendors for each company want to weigh in and explain that would be fine and welcome as well, just please explain the benefits of one over the other. Just trying to learn aittle something before I spend my money which is hard for me to do. Thanks so much everyone

[79T/Aman]

As the manufacturer of PTFB/GEN II products I will help answer a couple of your questions.
Our Comp kit had been very successful with high powered cars and heavier cars as well 3500# and up with 550 -800+ HP
our kits are bolt in no welding no fitting mounting brackets and hardware.
Our front control arms correct the geometry and can be purchased as a combo for $979.00 that is with Delrin bushings in the lowers and tall ball joints in the uppers.
Ride quality is very good and our test car, a 3700# 77 Trans Am (Pontiac powered) has won 2 SCCA championships in a row, placed 4 at the SCCA solo nationals and has consistently run with far more modified car that have larger tires, lighter and more power.

Feel free to look up the car from Travis Hartwell, it is a TRUE street car no roll bar full interior, all steel all factory windows OEM suspension location all parts are true bolt on, check out Kevin Tetz's Zed Sled Camaro or John Woods Trans AM, Johnny S. (bigger is better) 1980 hill climb winning Trans AM in Canada.

[F-Body International]

yellow1098, I know your question is directed towards ride height and power handling but I just want to start this off making sure you understand that leaf springs can be adjusted.

Consider this with regards to the leaf springs.
-When you order a leaf spring kit from PTFB, you get 2 position adjustable shackles for the rear spring eye so that mounting point can be raised or lowered.
-If you have a drill and cutting wheel, the front eye can be adjusted for free (look up Herb Adams mod) by modifying the front spring cup.
-If adjusting spring eye locations doesn't make it low enough for you, you can also use lowering blocks to lower the body.
-PTFB can set you up with Viking double adjustable shocks and adjustable rear sway bar for tuning as well.

My experience with Pro-Touring F-Body has been great with suspension parts. I'm using them for my '79 T/A 400 4spd. Some great items PTFB offers that Ridetech does not is solid body mounts, G-Braces and subframe connectors. These parts will pretty much lock the subframe to the body and allow your suspension to work as designed. If you have a 2nd Gen F-Body, you definitely won't regret saving money and putting together a badass setup. Even if you use a Ridetech kit, you'll probably be contacting PTFB for G-braces, solid body mounts, subframe connectors, steering arms, etc. Also, PTFB offers a front coil-over kit that's not on the website but you'll have to call in about it.

Don't forget that the Ridetech kits don't come with sway bars. You have to order the Ridetech sway bar as an extra item. For the price, going with the adjustable PTFB sway bar is a good option.

I don't want look like I'm one-sided on this but there is a benefit that the link suspension kits like what Ridetech offers or aftermarket subframes like offered by DSE or Speetech. The link suspension and aftermarket subframe setups will allow for a slightly wider 335 tire but it costs big money for the minitubs and high dollar front/rear suspension. 315 wide tires can be installed with stock style leaf springs and no minitubs at a much lower price.

[yellow1098Greg]

Thank you guys so much for the great information....I already have the solid body mounts from PTFB installed and purchased the subframe connectors ....I wasn't sure if with the 4link I would still need the subframe connectors .....you still need them if your running the 4 link correct? Sounds like some really nice stuff from PTFB especially if I don't plan minitubing the car and going with larger tires...is that really the only benefit of running the 4 link?

[79T/Aman]

"bolt in " 4 links use the stock leaf spring front mount so they do not allow for much larger wheels even with mini tubs maybe 1/2", our Comp leaf springs relocates the front leaf spring eye to give more clearance to the tire that allow up to an 11" wheel and a 315 tire.

Remember this, suspension systems all have their pros and cons many companies that sell link suspensions will tell you that leaf springs are for horse and buggies ...well this is just marketing talk, look up Danny king's 69 Camaro it's on leaf springs and it flat out kicks a$$

[yellow1098Greg]

Haha well that kind of marketing won't work on me.....its for horse and buggies won't mean much unless they can explain the real world benefits of me spending that kind of money...you guys have given me some great info on the leafs and it sounds very logical.....I'm curious what they would say about "pros" of having one which I would hope be more than factual then that....

What about the coilovers? I have been euthusiastic from reading about the quality and function of the ridetechs...I know this topic is discussed over and over on here and there is never a clear answer....my intended use for the car is hopefully to use like a higher end modern performance car....or a do it all type of car ...drive with performance on the street maybe a drag strip night...maybe a weekday trip to the track....which choice from PTFB would make me just as happy? You guys are great! Thank you!

[F-Body International]

yellow1098, I mentioned before that PTFB has a front coil-over kit you can special order. It uses a Viking coil-over assembly. I'm doing that with my car and a few other people on this forum have that setup as well.

For the rear and like I mentioned before, PTFB can also set you up with a double adjustable Viking shock. While this is not a coil-over setup, you still get all the adjustability of the shock.

With front and rear double adjustable shocks, you really open the door for being able to tune your suspension for street, strip, autocross, road course, etc. This however may not be for you and some people aren't trying to build that type of suspension.

A good forum member on here to reference for all the PTFB components is NOT A TA. He is pretty much doing all of the PTFB components as well. I will post pictures of my subframe soon. Mine is actually being built at the PTFB shop and is getting the full setup.

In the end, if you're just looking to lower your car, any leaf spring or link setup can do it. For performance and track I would stick with the leaf spring and spend the extra money on a badass set of tires.

[Smittys]

Just a few points on the Ridetech kit.

4 link is bye far superior to a leaf spring. It will fully articulate, you can change spring rates. It also has the lower link moved inboard so if you decide to mini tub it 335 tires are no issue. The instant center is improved over a leaf also. 4 links also don't wheel hop.

The difference in quality shocks has been debated for ever but the Ridetech shocks are bye far the best in the price range. They are built by Fox to our specs, they are a mono tube shock and come with a 1000001 mile warranty.

The front end of the kit has had all of the geometry improved and has caster slugs in the uppers for extra gain if you choose.

I don't think I need to tell you how many races Ridetech cars have won.

[F-Body International]

Here is a video from Global West showing how leaf springs can fully articulate when you run spherical bearings at each spring eye. In the video they state it becomes a "parallel link" suspension when you do this to a leaf spring setup. Hopefully this helps clear things up if articulation is of concern with leaf springs.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NvN_N8xIq3E

[73ta]

I am running PTFB's comp stuff on my 73 TA. Just about everything he sells. Good stuff, great price. No issue with wheel hop on my 570 HP, 600 Ft LBS. on Nitto 555's 17 X 285/40, 9 inch wheels on all 4 corners. Only things that differ are I am running my stock sway bars and AFCO double adjust shocks. I'm running regular coil springs on the front.

[yellow1098Greg]

Thank everyone for the great info......here is exactly why I'm confused...both setups as described sound wonderful....I read all the great aspects of each setup and wonder where my money should go....then you decide based on what you've read....does one setup need more "tweeking" to get it right over the other? Then I always wonder if someone who hasn't raced a lot or has much experience would even notice the differance in the two setups....

73ta...if you wouldn't mind sharing...how much do you have in that setup?

Any of you guys ride in both setups and notice the differences? Again great info...thanks a million

[79T/Aman]

instant center may be adjustable on a link suspension but from my experience you may not be able to optimize it due to affecting other parameters such as inducing rear roll under steer, and the leaf spring set up has a better roll center, yes the springs are easy to change but unless you are building a race car that may need to run different spring rates to fit different tracks most guys will not change springs.
FYI link suspension with poly bushings have terrible articulation, our leaf springs use a spherical bearing and an extended second leaf that work great for articulation and prevent wheel hop, improper pinion angle also contributes to wheel hop
As far as the shocks go "in the price range" ??? Vikings don't fit the same "price range"
We've beaten our fair share of "link" suspended cars just check out the shoot outs Hot Rodding mag Dec. 2013, Car Craft Jan. 2015 .

BTW even companies that have been selling link suspension are now offering leaf springs again...

[79T/Aman]

a link suspension will need more "tweeking" and adjustment, and as I mentioned before all have their pros and cons.

And to make sure there is no implying anything our front suspension has all the geometry improvements, including in the lower A-arms and we use tall upper ball joint as standard for performance usage to improve front roll center and negative camber gain.

[73ta]

Thank everyone for the great info......here is exactly why I'm confused...both setups as described sound wonderful....I read all the great aspects of each setup and wonder where my money should go....then you decide based on what you've read....does one setup need more "tweeking" to get it right over the other? Then I always wonder if someone who hasn't raced a lot or has much experience would even notice the differance in the two setups....

73ta...if you wouldn't mind sharing...how much do you have in that setup?

Any of you guys ride in both setups and notice the differences? Again great info...thanks a million

I notice alot of difference in no more body flexing, creaking. Also suspension is no longer bound up, fully articulates. Brakes are night and day compared to stock 4 wheel disks, could'nt even lock up the wheels with the stock setup. As to how much I spent, I don't know but that can be figured out easily on PTFB's web site as they list pricing. Even though I went with his comp suspension I don't feel it's too harsh for a street car.


I went with their product because of three reasons:
1. Dave is very helpful with helping to spec stuff and with tech support. He also stands behind his products. 2. Reviews of other people running his stuff with track results. 3. Price is substantially less than any other competitors!

[bret]

So I know actual hardware differences between these 2 kits.

Ridtech -rear 4 link and poly bushings
PTFB - Torktrax leaf springs and hardware w/spherical bearing

whats the rideheight and feel differance? Is one better at handling power?

upper and lower control arms.....ridetech kit comes with them and PTFB comp kit does not
feel and other important differences between the two

coilovers and shocks.....
ridetech -single adjustable
PTFB -19 pos adjustable aluminum

total price differnace
ridetech-$3,500
ptfb -$1,400 control arms...front $420 rear $580 total $2,400

differnace $1,000

i was just looking for the rear world and feel differnace between the 2 kits....I know from reading, everyone says the 4link provides a great benefit over the leaf springs ...but what is that really? Same question with the coil overs ...what differance am I going to feel and notice? Maybe some of guys that have driven cars with both setups can speak to that...honestly, the money difference isn't as much as I thought but maybe one is much more superior to other. If the vendors for each company want to weigh in and explain that would be fine and welcome as well, just please explain the benefits of one over the other. Just trying to learn aittle something before I spend my money which is hard for me to do. Thanks so much everyone

The one question that has not been adressed...what is the intended purpose of the car? What are the performance priorities, in order of importance? Ride quality? Cornering ability? Ride height adjustment? Price?
For any mix of priorities there are preferred combination of parts, and those preferences will still vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.
One thing that I feel very strongly about...dont scrimp on the shocks. No one builds a better shock than Ridetech. Some are as good...Penske, Ohlins, some of the JRI units...but none offer the wide range of performance, ride quality...and a 1,000,001 mile warranty.

[yellow1098Greg]

From alittle above ....my intended use for the car is hopefully to use like a higher end modern performance car....or a do it all type of car ...drive with performance on the street maybe a drag strip night...maybe a weekday trip to the track....if that makes sense....I do understand from research the shocks are probably the most important aspects of these setups.....

So importance wise....ride quality (which doesn't nesasarily mean smooth) more like as I said a modern sports car feel...ride height 2nd...cornering ability which in my head went along with ride quality...and price last since both setups are close enough......I was really just trying to see if one was superior to the other for what I'm looking for which I know is kind of a vague statement.....and never having a ride in either, what difference would I feel ....thank again everyone for your info and opinions!

[73ta]

I like the AFCO shocks for their ease of adjusting. Most of the other shocks I have seen, double adjustable, I don't know how you would get to the adjustment knobs! I use my car primarily for the street, but make occasional trips to the 1/4 drag strip, autocross and track days.