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View Full Version : how much does a procharger cost?



DCx
09-18-2004, 05:08 AM
I was just toying with the idea of a supercharger. I like the looks of the vortech but what I have seen on this site and others is the carb in the box isnt all that great and a bonnet system is much better. I like the fact that the procharger is self oiled seems like a much easier install. I requested a catalog just for kicks. I would be interested in a stsyem putting out around 8-10 lbs max nothing too crazy, I would also like to keep a mechanical fuel pump if possible. I know nothing about these systems. The vortech is around $2600 and seems like it is way more complex then the procharger, i was guessing the procharger would be more in the $1800-2200 range :confused: considering the p-1sc units are all over ebay and the carb bonnets are cheap also. Figured the swap would not cost me all too much in the future considering I have most of the engines hard parts that I can swap to a new lower compression short block. I smell a winter project and a huge credit card bill! :scared: more info: I have a 69 camaro and a smallblock. What else would be needed? carb, procharger system, msd boost master/boost gauge, and a few fuel upgrades? and to think I just spent all kinds of money on my march serpentine pulleys! ok im rambling now...

thanks
Justin

DCx
09-19-2004, 03:09 AM
more to consider. I would like to keep my power steering. I dont have a/c or plan on getting it. I went to a car show today and saw a 67 nova that had a procharger, damn it looked good. I alreay have some good engine parts like msd pro billet, 6al, pro magnum roller rockers, lunati roller lifters, victor jr, 210 dart pro 1s. I also have a set or TRW .30 flat top pistons that I had installed in my short block, until I had them removed for some dome high compression pistons. My heads are 72cc according to TRW the flat tops will net me around 9:1. I removed them thinking it was too low for my thumper small block (.590 lift solid roller) so in went the domes. I keep changing my mind about my car. Its painted, drive train installed, and all it needs is my painless wiring installed and the front sheet metal. I would like to break everything in and drive the car before I do the swap. Procharger sounds like an awesome addition. I have really grown to like the sound of a noisy blower, the eatons on the new cobras are loud! I also like the screech of a vortech, kind of reminds me of the pete jackson gear drive I had installed. Any input on the price of the procharger? I hate websites that dont offer price listings.

camcojb
09-19-2004, 07:02 AM
I've bought three systems from Scott at SD Concept Engineering (http://www.sd-concepts.com/)

Without the upgrades like polishing, etc. they're about $2200. to $2500. for the P1SC or D1SC depending on the exact model you buy. You also need to allow $325 or so to have your carb fully modded for a blow-through application.

You'll absolutely love it but the ProCharger and Vortech will cost about the same when all is said and done. The carb hat systems are better if high boost is your goal; they both work well at more moderate boost levels.

Jody

DCx
09-19-2004, 02:08 PM
I just swaped my car from an auto to a 4 speed. I build an auto gear spec M22 using a super case, iron mid plate, and italian gears. Im not really looking to grenade any of this stuff. Just looking for around 500 rwhp. Jody what type of carb did you use? demon or holley? i was reading on the chevelle site that the holley is the way to go. Without spending too much on a fancy carb will a regular double pumper work if converted? or do i need to strat with a more expensive model like one of there HP 4150s. I think I am in the 10.5:1 compression area so a piston change is needed. Other then that did you use a MSD boost master? or is one needed for low boost aps?

camcojb
09-19-2004, 03:22 PM
A standard double pumper is fine once it's modded. Probably in the 650-700 cfm range for your HP goal but a 750 would work also. I've always used Holleys but have a friend who did a Demon which worked just as well.

Depending on the amount of boost you may not need a boost retard. I like to build them to be able to run as much advance as is practical and tailor the boost accordingly. In other words if you can run 32 degrees of timing and 9-10 psi of boost the engine is very responsive and quite a street terror. But if to add a couple of pounds of boost requires a 5-7 degree timing retard you do lose a lot of the boost gain with the timing retard.

My friends 406 I built ran 14 psi of boost and 32 degrees but required mixing some race gas in. He put a boost retard on it and had to pull back to 28 degrees or so with pump gas to not detonate, but it felt like it lost 100 HP. So we put a water injection kit on it and he can now run the 14 psi with 32 degrees of timing and 91 octane. Made 691 rwhp.

Jody

TurboLark
09-20-2004, 01:35 PM
Heres some good info for the blowthru carb stuff.
Build you own blowthru (http://www.turbomustangs.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7810)
and
Blowthru carb builders and parts (http://www.turbomustangs.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=13347)

A 750 can get you up to at least 1200hp. So no need to go any bgger than that unless you already have a carb(like I do).
I've got my old 800 douple pump holley, but i bought a ProForm main body so i have the tunable air bleeds. Will probably get some jet blocks that have externally changable jet setup.