Need Suggestions For Floorpan and Interior Coating To Prevent Rust

[AU Doc]

I'd like to to coat the bottom of my floorpans and interior side of panels to prevent rust. When I quit hot rodding cold turkey about 15 years ago, POR-15 was highly recommended. However, the car has minimal rust now - and I'm trying to keep it that way :) - so I don't know if POR-15 will bond.

Id like to use something like lizard skin on the interior for sound deadening, but I want to make sure any rust that may be there doesn't continue under the coating. I've also got one quarter that was replaced and lap welded. I'd like to make sure the lap weld doesn't rust if possible.

Can any of you guys offer any advice on what I should do to make sure my car stays rust-free?

[Jetfixr320]

Rust Bullet has been recommended to me. I like the fact that you don't have to use a special primer to top coat it like POR15 requires.
I just painted some suspension parts with the Rust bullet. It flows out nice, even using a brush.

Another product a painter I talk to on a another forum likes to use PickleX 20.
http://picklex20.com/

[dhutton]

I'd give it a couple of coats of black SPI epoxy. Great product that is reasonably priced. Not a big believer in any of the rust miracle coatings. Ask yourself when was the last time you saw a pro using them....

I like to use SEM bedliner on the bottom of my drivers.

Lizard Skin is a waste of money in my opinion. Little sound deadening effect.

Don

[AU Doc]

Thanks for the info!

I know the pros would put the car on a rotisserie, blast, prime, and paint the whole thing from scratch. This car is going to be driven a lot, so I'm looking for durability more than a slick finish. Something like a bed liner material would work well, as long as it will stop any rust that is there. Otherwise I need to look for another coating, at least for a base coating. Maybe one of the products Jetfixr posted?

What are the better alternatives for thermal and sound barriers compared to lizard skin?

[dhutton]

Thanks for the info!

I know the pros would put the car on a rotisserie, blast, prime, and paint the whole thing from scratch. This car is going to be driven a lot, so I'm looking for durability more than a slick finish. Something like a bed liner material would work well, as long as it will stop any rust that is there. Otherwise I need to look for another coating, at least for a base coating. Maybe one of the products Jetfixr posted?

What are the better alternatives for thermal and sound barriers compared to lizard skin?

SPI epoxy is an extremely durable product. Google SPI epoxy torture test.

Any of the peel and stick dampening products along with along with insulation like thermozite will outperform lizard skin.

Don

[NOT A TA]

I'd be cautious of the Eastwood peel & stick stuff in the South unless they've changed it recently. Had it melt and run out on the garage floor on a car I was building for someone here a year or two ago before the car ever started or left the garage.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/10/002_zps66816854-1.jpg (http://s240.photobucket.com/user/NOTATA/media/Steves%20El%20Bulitt%2068%20Mustang%20build/002_zps66816854.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/10/001_zps119a09cd-1.jpg (http://s240.photobucket.com/user/NOTATA/media/Steves%20El%20Bulitt%2068%20Mustang%20build/001_zps119a09cd.jpg.html)

[AU Doc]

I'd be cautious of the Eastwood peel & stick stuff in the South unless they've changed it recently. Had it melt and run out on the garage floor on a car I was building for someone here a year or two ago before the car ever started or left the garage.
......

WOW!!! Thanks for the heads up! I'll steer clear of that stuff!

For these coatings, am I going to be looking at stripping the pans back to bare metal?

[Gates72ss]

we use alot of SEM rustshield at our shop .. gives a really nice satin finish and stops/prevents rust from re appearing ... can get a gallon for pretty cheap.. it can be brushed on or thinned and shot with a gun ( best look with gun ) depends on how thick you want it , can do multiple coats if wanted with gun ... tintable too ..

[Zspoiler]

I use a paint on bed liner top and bottom..

[MonzaRacer]

Well just to let some know where the POR15 came from. It was developed for the military to treat rusting battleships. Its original form was so tough you could barely scratch it. I remember one friend told me they hated using it as the battleship gray paint had to be mixed so it stayed tacky for a long time. Dont know if THATS true but the stuff was super tough. The new formulation was done to make it more conducive to sanding and top coating. The basic chemical action is that it absorbs moisture and air to cure so it removed all corrosive elements from the surface of the metal. also because of its chemical make up it is a form of epoxy sealing the metal. Also due to its make up even if the metal is scratched the scratch generally wont rust and handles touch up well.
Eastwood developed a much different chemical make up but it also works well but does not have quite a wide a list of benefits.
But honestly a proper clean up and dry out pretty much any coating will protect the metal well especially in cars that are not driven daily or in severely inclement weather.
Honestly I know a buddy's father loved good old fashion roof Black Jack sealer and it does work pretty well from my looking of several of his dads old cars that the current owners have, and they never had it removed as it was working well. I know one car had severe rust but they had full quarter replaced then he blackjacked the complete inside of both. it hardens up decent. Not sure if it would melt in warm climates. But I do know it holds paint pretty good.
But for the short, sweet and simple way to protect metal, as long as its not severely rusted if so chemically etch it and such, then a simple multiple coat of plain old Rustoleum black paint. I know we used to use it in radiator shop over the expensive radiator paint. And I loved the siphon sprayer we had for coating car floors.
For inside the Second Skin products over regular Rustoleum inside would be my cheap choice.
I really think the expensive resorations and customs would not use Por15 or other products as they generally are so far taken down so why not just epoxy prime and paint and then maybe undercoat.

[astroracer]

Lee pretty much nailed it with the Rustoleum Paint. If you have a fairly rust free floor now, what you don't want to do is coat it with something that will hold moisture when it does get in there. And it WILL get in there. Any rubber undercoating or bedliner will not seal forever. Any nooks and crannies that hold water and moisture will start to rot and you won't even know it....
Paint it with a cheap paint. You can keep an eye on it and touch it up if needed. It's also easier to work on if you have to. Not having to strip that undercoating off is a good thing.
Mark

[pittpens24]

I was recommended this by my restoration shop and couldn't be happier with the results. Did 2 coats of epoxy primer(I used Valspar Automotive) and within the flash time, I used followed up with 2 coats of U-Pol Raptor liner as per directions. I can't say enough about the Raptorliner. It came as a kit with the gun and was sooooo easy to use. Open up the bottle, fill to the line with activator, shake for a couple minutes, take off the lid and screw the bottle onto the gun and start shooting. Only down side is when slipping off a wrench it sure is a knuckle buster lol.

[Dragonfly]

I primed with epoxy followed by 2 coats of raptor liner and the undercarriage is awesome , used it inside too. Detroit Speed uses it on a lot of their builds and they have great photos of builds on their site