1972 C10 Build

[Cshenker1121]

Hey guys,

So i already had a thread started in the project section, but i decided to make a new one in the truck category concidering this is a truck build and this is where it belongs. My goals for the truck are to do some track days, autocross events and drive it on the street. I have had the truck in my family for over 20 years and it was my high school ride, and i finally have gotten to start building it. Before i started building it, it was a leaf spring truck with a Small block and a TH350. It is staying a longbed, i dont have any desire to change it. I am super ocd on stuff being right so i try to use thread lock, steel or nylon lock nuts, cotter keys or anti-seize on everything that needs it. Bovey with the targa truck has been a huge help with questions as well as pch rods and many other people.

Suspension- I installed a Hotchkis Tvs kit (control arms, springs, sway bars, center link, pan hard bar, shock mounts, tie rod adjusters) with Ridetech HQ shocks, ECE trailing arms, and CPP drop spindles. The truck had leaf springs so i changed it over because of how well the trailing arm suspension works.

Steering- All i did for the steering was get a cpp 500 steering box, the hotchkis center link and rebuilt the rest of the steering with proforged parts (tie rod ends, pitman, idler). i might change the box later on but i will see how it does for now. I will be installing a power steering cooler seeing that is highly recommended everywhere ive seen.

Brakes-I went to Ron Sutton to make my brake package i already have and make it better. My brake package now consists of a Wilwood replacement D52 caliper up front which has (2) 2.00" pistons that uses a stock size parts store rotors and i used timken bearings and morose studs. A D154R rear caliper which is another gm repacement from wilwood, but this has (1) 2.00" piston, i was recommended a 7/8 bore tandem master cylinder with a proportioning valve so thats what i got and Depending on which type of driving i will be doing, he made me a calc sheet with a different pad compounds for autox, track days and street driving which is nice. I am taking brake cooling into consideration as well to help with the heat the brakes will be seeing. (calc sheets below)

Differential- I used the stock truck 12 bolt and installed a Trutrac, New axles with arp studs, Richmond 3:73 gears, billet 1350 yoke and a girdled cover. The rear brakes are floating so a c-clip eliminator was not needed, seeing that fixed brake calipers and c clip axles do not go well together.

Tires and wheels- Rocket Booster 18x9 with Bridgestone RE11's 275/40-18

List of To do's next:
-Fuel cell, fuel lines and wiring
-Relocate Battery to rear
-Make new brake lines
-Get a cross member made for the rear shocks and do some other frame work.
-Take out old cross member so i can install rear sway bar (on longbeds theres a crossmember that gets in the way)
- Safety harness bar made and installed
-Aluminum radiator/ fans/ wiring
-Install power steering cooler

(there's other odd's and ends i have to address as well)



For the engine i have a 5.3 i picked up with 70k miles on it out of a 2008 suburban, it has 243 heads and a trailblazer ss intake so im hoping i can use those with the set up i want. My plan is to get a rebuild with a good cam and some head work and run it. For the transmission i am looking towards a 4l80e. But before i start that i have to finish the suspension, get the brakes lines done, do some frame work, mount the fuel cell and get the wiring done. I will keep you guys updated as i go, if you have any questions feel free to ask thanks!
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[bs46488]

I like it. I'm neck deep in painting my 1972 C10 project, so its nice to see some of the goodies.

Suspension is looking good. You got any picks of the outside/interior?

[Cshenker1121]

I cant roll the truck out at the moment, but here is a picture from a few months ago. Ill get some interior pictures this week, its just stock interior for now. I will probably be getting seats, some sort of new gauge cluster (racepak/dakota digital/Autometer) and maybe a different steering wheel after i get it running and driving. Other than that i will be keeping it pretty simple.132724

[Munssey]

Looking good man. Sounds like this will be a fun track truck once you get it out and dialed in.

[bpmack16]

Nice truck I have the same suspension setup. Pm me your number I have some questions. Thanks

[Cshenker1121]

Thanks guys!

When i got the rear end back from the shop a few months, i don't know if i had a lug with junk threads or what, but after installing the rear end, i put my wheels on and when removing one of the lugs to take them back off, it seized up on the stud and the only way to get it off involved tearing the threads off of it, so tonight i popped the cover off and took the axle out so i can get the stud out, Too much work for one stud. Check your threads on the studs and lugs while the wheels are off and i recommend putting some anti seize on them as well.

Just have to order new ones and some more gear oil and that's finished. I should be able to order my fuel cell next week, ill keep you guys updated!132748

[Slick68]

Can you give some more info on the rear brake setup? I may be upgrading rear brakes soon. I want to make sure I run a sliding caliper setup.

[Centerforce]

Count us in. We love seeing trucks tearing up the autoX!

[Cshenker1121]

Can you give some more info on the rear brake setup? I may be upgrading rear brakes soon. I want to make sure I run a sliding caliper setup.

I used a wilwood d154 rear parking brake package (i believe the part number is 140-12215), it included the whole mounting set up (backing plate with parking brake system and caliper mount), rotors, pads and small piston d154 calipers (didn't use because the piston's were too small and didn't create enough braking torque, it was horribly unbalanced, so i sold those and got what Ron recommended, a wilwood part# 120-13899) Id reccomend calling wilwood and see if they can make you this package with this caliper instead, it'll save you some money if they can.

The difference in the two is the piston diameter,The D154 that comes with the kit has dual 1.12 diameter pistons. The D154R that i ended up with has a single 2.00 diameter piston.

I also removed the parking brake system from the backing plate, i did not like it, if i decide to add one later i am just going to install line lock so i can just add pressure to the brake pedal, flip the switch and it will be used like a parking brake.

Thanks guys!

[bovey]

Thanks guys!

When i got the rear end back from the shop a few months, i don't know if i had a lug with junk threads or what, but after installing the rear end, i put my wheels on and when removing one of the lugs to take them back off, it seized up on the stud and the only way to get it off involved tearing the threads off of it, so tonight i popped the cover off and took the axle out so i can get the stud out, Too much work for one stud. Check your threads on the studs and lugs while the wheels are off and i recommend putting some anti seize on them as well.

Just have to order new ones and some more gear oil and that's finished. I should be able to order my fuel cell next week, ill keep you guys updated!132748


I had problems with studs and nuts as well on my '71 GMC. I'd reco putting proper ARP studs and Moroso nuts on if you are going to push on it. All of my front studs where stretched and one stud spun after an AutoX one week-end. I've had zero issues with the ARP/Moroso stuff.

[Cshenker1121]

I had problems with studs and nuts as well on my '71 GMC. I'd reco putting proper ARP studs and Moroso nuts on if you are going to push on it. All of my front studs where stretched and one stud spun after an AutoX one week-end. I've had zero issues with the ARP/Moroso stuff.

Bovey, I am using arp studs on the back and moroso's studs on the fornt. Is the lug nuts you are recommending the moroso part#46330?

[Cshenker1121]

I got my fuel cell from boyd welding, I fixed the stripped studs on the rear axles, replaced my body mounts, got my front upper shock mounts and took the bed off so i can start taking some of the riveted frame pieces that i don't need then i can take the truck to the fabricator in a couple of weeks to get the suspension and brakes finished. Then i can start wiring the truck and get working on the engine and transmission.

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[Cshenker1121]

I finally got the truck back from the fabracator, i had him

-weld in a c notch
- brace the panhard bar between the frame rails and on the outer side
- make new shock cross member
- fill in from frame rails where they were notched out
- stainless steel brake lines
- install rear sway bar
- put new sleeves in the trailing arms for the swivel max bushings
- weld in mounts for fuel cell
- remove all riveted cross members
- set pinion angle
-put in front upper shock mounts

and some other small things, i think he did well and was very reasonable. Next i am starting on rebuilding the engine.

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[Cshenker1121]

another picture

[Cshenker1121]

So i am beginning the wiring harness tomorrow and hoping to have it done by this weekend. I went with american auto wire.

Also where are you guys mounting your battery? in the bed near the tailgate or under the bed, or more near the cab? And what are you guys using for a battery box/tray? i see there are some drop down boxes from No Limit and other companies and All Star Performance has some cheaper steel ones as well as ive seen sealed boxes? Any input is appreciated. Thanks guys!

[Cshenker1121]

Okay so this is what i have completed lately

-rocker panels installed and rusted panels removed from floors
-american autowire kit installed
-tore the truck down and painted the entire chassis and engine bay with KBS coatings
-got my radiator from entropy, installed it along with new mounts.
-fuel door filled in
-battery box installed

For the money i think the coating kit was very good for the money, the truck had leaks coming from everywhere previously so there was a lot of grease and grime built up in the engine bay and all over the chassis, and their product did exactly what they said it would.


Next is the transmission. I will be more than likely be going with one of bowlers packages they have, they seem to have a very very good reputation from everyone. 14023414023714023314023214023514023614023814023914 0240140242140243140241140244140245

[Ethereal]

Where are you putting the battery box? Have a pic? I read that for autox, weight should ideally be equal (front left + rear right) to (front right + rear left) which makes me think that driver's side is the side to relocate to.

[Cshenker1121]

I moved mine right behind the cab on the passenger side.

[Cshenker1121]

I ended up removing my inner fender wells and core support seeing how much rust and grease there was and I am getting them sand blasted and powder coated.

I went back and forth with a couple of engine builders locally and they all had around the same number for building the engine I had. After doing the math I decided to get a gm performance ls3. I felt it was a good deal for the money.

[Cshenker1121]

The ls3
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[93Polo]

- put new sleeves in the trailing arms for the swivel max bushings

Clean build and I like the parts selection. Do you know if the sleeves required any fabrication/spacer or if ECE used a stock size poly joint and the swivel max went in like it would a stock trailing arm?

[Cshenker1121]

The trailing arms needed new sleeves welded in for the swivel max bushings. The ece trailing arms have a smaller than stock size hole for them and they won't fit unless you cut it out and put the correct size in.

[chuckd71]

Cool truck, a C10 from that era is going to be my next project. Good stuff

[Cshenker1121]

Sweet thanks guys

[chevelletiger]

Hi,i just picked up a 70 1/2 ton long bed with leafs,im pretty new to these trucks,could you pm me what parts from a donor i need and what i need to drill out etc?

Going to shorten the frame after the parts swap too.
Thank you
Phil

[Cshenker1121]

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Haven’t posted in awhile. Got a bunch done

-Motor and trans installed and tuned. It’s a Ls376/480 with a bowler t56. Everything is wired.

-Everything except the exterior is painted or powder coated.

-interior done (seat, gauges, stereo, carpet, dynamat)

-suspension done (hotchkis tvs)

-exhaust done

-bed painted under neath and tubbed.

Almost done! Just have to get the bed bedlined, some small stuff buttoned up and it’s getting painted then it’s finished.

Thanks guys

[kmc3420]

This is looking awesome. I thought you had finished the truck by now and forgot to update. Question: What is that below your dash, below the heater control? I think it says Battery on it?

[Cshenker1121]

This is looking awesome. I thought you had finished the truck by now and forgot to update. Question: What is that below your dash, below the heater control? I think it says Battery on it?

I wish, I don’t always have the funds so I do what I can when I can. It’s about there. And that’s a battery cut off switch. And thank you!

[Cshenker1121]

After putting it off as long as I could before summer, I got my Bedliner done. It was a 2 day affair just getting the stuff on evenly everywhere, just have some small areas to clean up but over all not bad looking for roll on and aerosol. Now I have to undercoat the wheel wells next weekend and the bed goes on. (Ignore the black on the sides where it looks like bad over spray. That’s where I was covering bare metal with some paint during prep.) 173341173344

[Craig@Bowler]

Truck is looking awesome! I love how that shift lever and knob looks on the interior. Does it give you a comfortable shift position?

[Cshenker1121]

Truck is looking awesome! I love how that shift lever and knob looks on the interior. Does it give you a comfortable shift position?

Thank you Craig I appreciate it and yes it does. It’s very comfortable.

[Fastlife831]

Did you use stock oem trailing arms? If not, will they work with the hotchkis tvs system?

[79 Camaro]

Nice looking project.
Just a modification that doesn't cost anything. I used an aftermarket radiator as you did on my 68 C10 LS using the stock top hold down brackets. I shaved the stock fan shroud mounting points. Just basically ground them off and filled the gap that was left with my welder then ground them smooth. Painted them black to match the radiator support. Just a suggestion.

[Cshenker1121]

Did you use stock oem trailing arms? If not, will they work with the hotchkis tvs system?

No I used the ECE trailing arms. I had new sleeves welded into them because the ece arms use different size bushings than stock arms do and wouldn’t work. But now they do work after they were modified.

[Cshenker1121]

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So I dropped it off to get the final stuff done.

He fixed my exhaust. So it didn’t hit the driveshaft

Fixed my temp gauge so it reads correct.
(There was no more ports in the heads for a temp sensor and the other shop I took it to put it in the radiator. It was 80* off)

Got a complete kicker stereo installed. With a retro sound head unit.

Next up getting installed is a vintage air kit and the bed goes on and I can finally take it on the road.

[Cshenker1121]

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Vintage air getting installed this weekend

[JayinMI]

What bedliner product did you use? I'm considering Upol Raptor Liner for the underside of my S-10 cab, but I don't know if it's worth it. It won't have loads slid on it, maybe just get dirt and rocks thrown at it. Looks like that turned out well.

Jay

[Cshenker1121]

What bedliner product did you use? I'm considering Upol Raptor Liner for the underside of my S-10 cab, but I don't know if it's worth it. It won't have loads slid on it, maybe just get dirt and rocks thrown at it. Looks like that turned out well.

Jay

I used raptor liner as well. Prep it good and take your time.

[JayinMI]

The kit I'm looking at is 4L and comes with a spray gun. Hope it will be enough. Thanks.

[Cshenker1121]

The kit I'm looking at is 4L and comes with a spray gun. Hope it will be enough. Thanks.

If your doing just the top side of the bed that’ll be enough. If it’s not they have rattle cans at most orielly auto parts stores that are great for finishing it up.

Good luck

[Cshenker1121]

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All buttoned up today. Couldn’t look any better.

Ready for the summer heat!

[Cshenker1121]

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Beds on, got an alignment done and now I am finishing wiring for the tail lights.

[Smee78]

Looks like a great truck, congrats.

[Cshenker1121]

Looks like a great truck, congrats.

Thanks man!

[Justinredbeard]

Do you have any good side profile pictures of the truck? I am thinking about the hotchkis set up also but curious on the ride height. Really like the build though every time my mind wanders off and starts thinking I need this or that like the big dollar guys looking back at this and remind myself it can look so good and function for normal guy prices hahaha.

[Cshenker1121]

Do you have any good side profile pictures of the truck? I am thinking about the hotchkis set up also but curious on the ride height. Really like the build though every time my mind wanders off and starts thinking I need this or that like the big dollar guys looking back at this and remind myself it can look so good and function for normal guy prices hahaha.


Hotchkis kit definitely handles very good for the money. I love it.
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[Justinredbeard]

Awesome. If I remember you dont have drop spindles or lowering blocks. I like the stance and good to hear it works so well.

[Cshenker1121]

Awesome. If I remember you dont have drop spindles or lowering blocks. I like the stance and good to hear it works so well.

I do have drop spindles on the front


and no lowering blocks

[Cshenker1121]

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Got the cooling system bled and took it for a 140 mile loop. Runs and handles awesome.

[Cshenker1121]

I started gathering parts to twin turbo the truck

Turbos Direct Garrett billet wheel 62’s
Aermotive fuel pressure regulator
Turbosmart Race port BOV
Turbosmart 40mm Comp gates

I’ll post more pictures as the build starts taking place. They will be mounted up under the cab, so we can keep the engine bay clean and use the ultimate headers I already have installed. I’m super excited

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[kmc3420]

Nice turbo goodies. Have you made any progress on that front. It would be hard to stop driving this thing to fab up the turbos, but once turbos are done....hold on!!

[Cshenker1121]

Nice turbo goodies. Have you made any progress on that front. It would be hard to stop driving this thing to fab up the turbos, but once turbos are done....hold on!!

Thank you! I just purchased the Air to water intercooler set up for it so I won’t have to hack up the core support at all, also got my injectors and scavenge pump, ice box that’s going in the bed etc. I’m just waiting for a spot to open up at the shop that’s doing the install for me. According to the gentleman doing it for me I should have it back within a week once I drop it off.

I’m going to post pictures and a video once it’s complete. Just waiting to get it in to him now.

[kmc3420]

Thank you! I just purchased the Air to water intercooler set up for it so I won’t have to hack up the core support at all, also got my injectors and scavenge pump, ice box that’s going in the bed etc. I’m just waiting for a spot to open up at the shop that’s doing the install for me. According to the gentleman doing it for me I should have it back within a week once I drop it off.

I’m going to post pictures and a video once it’s complete. Just waiting to get it in to him now.

Awesome, that's a pretty quick turn around for a whole lot more power. Did he share the details of his list of mods that he will be doing? I assume he will be pulling the heads and gapping the rings plus head studs as well. I have plans of running a single turbo on my C10, but am still in the body work stages, working on the cab now. So, curious of what all will be done to prep the motor. Keep at it, really liking the build!! Gonna be a blast to drive.

[Cshenker1121]

Awesome, that's a pretty quick turn around for a whole lot more power. Did he share the details of his list of mods that he will be doing? I assume he will be pulling the heads and gapping the rings plus head studs as well. I have plans of running a single turbo on my C10, but am still in the body work stages, working on the cab now. So, curious of what all will be done to prep the motor. Keep at it, really liking the build!! Gonna be a blast to drive.


We are going to leave the head bolts and rings alone. With what power we are gonna have it at, it’ll be safe. Down the road I’ll probably do the head studs and maybe a better piston/rod combo. And thank you very much!

He does a ton of turbo builds and assured me it’ll be a blast where he is setting it at. Which is what I think will be my saving grace as far as keeping the engine in one piece. We are leaving the gate spring at 7lbs.

Keeping the IAT’s down with the Air to water intercooler will also help in keeping the engine alive.

It’s definitely a lot to do but I’m sure you’ll love it when you throw a turbo on it and get it rolling down the road.

[Mcfabllc]

Thank you! I just purchased the Air to water intercooler set up for it so I won’t have to hack up the core support at all, also got my injectors and scavenge pump, ice box that’s going in the bed etc. I’m just waiting for a spot to open up at the shop that’s doing the install for me. According to the gentleman doing it for me I should have it back within a week once I drop it off.

I’m going to post pictures and a video once it’s complete. Just waiting to get it in to him now.
If you don’t mind me asking why are you going turbo over let’s say a centrifugal supercharger. I would figure the turbo lag down low would be bad. That’s why we went with a whipple on my wife’s truck.

[Cshenker1121]

If you don’t mind me asking why are you going turbo over let’s say a centrifugal supercharger. I would figure the turbo lag down low would be bad. That’s why we went with a whipple on my wife’s truck.

I’ve always been a fan of turbos, we’ve had them on our sand cars and I loved the way they ran.

I wanted a whipple originally but liked that my engine bay looks clean as is and with the turbos mounted under the cab, it’ll stay that way. All you’ll see is a charge tube with the BOV.

When I went to turbos direct to get pick them Up, the way I had the turbos built, it’ll spool very fast with the T3 housings. It should on at about 2800-3000.. And if I ever wanted to, I could go with a bigger T4 housing and push these to 1200+hp.

[Mcfabllc]

I’ve always been a fan of turbos, we’ve had them on our sand cars and I loved the way they ran.

I wanted a whipple originally but liked that my engine bay looks clean as is and with the turbos mounted under the cab, it’ll stay that way. All you’ll see is a charge tube with the BOV.

When I went to turbos direct to get pick them Up, the way I had the turbos built, it’ll spool very fast with the T3 housings. It should on at about 2800-3000.. And if I ever wanted to, I could go with a bigger T4 housing and push these to 1200+hp.
Got ya. How big are the turbos and the engine CI ? I am with you with the clean engine bay. I all most went NA with my wife’s truck for the same reason.None the less going to be bad ass between the frame rails of your C10 for sure.

[Cshenker1121]

Got ya. How big are the turbos and the engine CI ? I am with you with the clean engine bay. I all most went NA with my wife’s truck for the same reason.None the less going to be bad ass between the frame rails of your C10 for sure.

Definitely I agree. Turbos are 62mm with T3 .82 AR housings. And the engine is 376ci

[Mcfabllc]

Definitely I agree. Turbos are 62mm with T3 .82 AR housings. And the engine is 376ci
Very nice. Get ready to shift lol

[Cshenker1121]

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Wiggins clamps installed on the compressor housings

Mount for the intercooler welded on

Exhaust flanges with v bands welded on

[syborg tt]

Holy crap You have my attention !

What an awesome truck

[Cshenker1121]

Holy crap You have my attention !

What an awesome truck

Thank you! I will update with more pictures as more gets done

[Cshenker1121]

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Update

[Cshenker1121]

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Hot side mocked up

[Vimes]

Nice looking so far, but I can't see how the compressed air piping will go. Looking forward to seeing this finished.

[AU Doc]

In the for the updates! This is a cool setup.

[Cshenker1121]

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Stopped by and got a few more pics. Upgrading the fuel system as well.

[Cshenker1121]

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[Cshenker1121]

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[AU Doc]

There's that answer! Looking good!

[Cshenker1121]

There's that answer! Looking good!

Thanks man

[Cshenker1121]

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Air to water plumbed except for ice tank, wired everything with weather pack connectors, gates installed, everything is welded. Getting there

[Vimes]

Nice looking, was wondering how you'd get that pressurized pipe to the front.

I would screen that radiator right behind the tire with something fairly rigid, like welded mesh. Anything you hit (and stuff can't always be avoided) will be slung into it hard, and some of the stuff you might hit can break that.

[Cshenker1121]

Nice looking, was wondering how you'd get that pressurized pipe to the front.

I would screen that radiator right behind the tire with something fairly rigid, like welded mesh. Anything you hit (and stuff can't always be avoided) will be slung into it hard, and some of the stuff you might hit can break that.

Thanks for the tip, will try to get it solved if it becomes an issue.

[Cshenker1121]

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Dual Holley 450’s installed with the aeromotive regulator, 850cc Bosch injectors, Holley rails, I believe -10 feed with -8 return. We did all PhenIx crimp fittings as well. Just waiting on the flex fuel sensor and the fuel system will be done.

[Cshenker1121]

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Intake tube almost done

[David Sloan]

Cool project!
just wondering what your plans for oil and return for the turbos ?
I'm doing a single turbo in the smugglers box on a 1970 Elcamino,
I would like to mount it low but was considering mounting it higher for oil return lines to motor.
Thanks for sharing.

[Cshenker1121]

Cool project!
just wondering what your plans for oil and return for the turbos ?
I'm doing a single turbo in the smugglers box on a 1970 Elcamino,
I would like to mount it low but was considering mounting it higher for oil return lines to motor.
Thanks for sharing.


We are running the oil feed off the little block above the oil filter and the return will T off into a scavenge pump and will return to the valve cover. Thanks man

[syborg tt]

Looks great I can’t wait to see more pictures

[David Sloan]

We are running the oil feed off the little block above the oil filter and the return will T off into a scavenge pump and will return to the valve cover. Thanks man

Thank you sir!
I had thought about running a scavenge pump, I'm a little ways from worrying about it yet but may do that as well to keep the turbo lower.

[Cshenker1121]

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Coated the charge pipes
Oil lines ran and scavenge pump done
Wastegate plumbing done
Heat barrier on the floor

[Cshenker1121]

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Truck is finally finished and waiting to go to get dyno tuned. Couldn’t be happier.

[Munssey]

Bravo, sir! The truck is coming together nicely. Cant wait to see some action shots.

[Cshenker1121]

Bravo, sir! The truck is coming together nicely. Cant wait to see some action shots.

Thank you!

[Cshenker1121]

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I was wiring the flex fuel sensor and got another pic of the engine. I’m very happy with how it turned out. It’s in the trailer ready for the dyno. Just waiting to drop it off. Thanks everyone for the comments I appreciate it

[Cshenker1121]

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Finally got it back from the dyno, not too bad

640whp

[kmc3420]

Awesome job!! Thats a pretty good bump..what does the seat of the pants dyno say?

[Cshenker1121]

Awesome job!! Thats a pretty good bump..what does the seat of the pants dyno say?

Scary as hell it’s like a completely different truck, it drives like it use to till you hit 3000-3500.

I like getting on the freeway in 3rd and 4th and just rolling into it. That’s my favorite. It just pulls so hard!


Totally happy with it. We had the make some changes to the scavenge system. I will update with pics when I do that. Gathering parts. Thanks everyone!!!!

[syborg tt]

Wow this truck just keeps getting better and better. There isn’t anything about this truck I would change.

[JustJohn]

What are you using as pass-throughs on the truck bed above?

[C Presley]

Wanted to say you have a great looking Truck! Nice Build! What modifications if any did you have to do to the floor pan around the Tunnel area or rear of the Tunnel to fit the transmission? Please let me know. Pulling parts together for a 68 C10 I'm working on.

[Cshenker1121]

Wow this truck just keeps getting better and better. There isn’t anything about this truck I would change.

Thank you very much! Lots of work, I’m glad you like it

[Cshenker1121]

What are you using as pass-throughs on the truck bed above?

The pass through for the -12 water lines are just some plastic nutted grommets. So they stay in place. Thank you!

[Cshenker1121]

Wanted to say you have a great looking Truck! Nice Build! What modifications if any did you have to do to the floor pan around the Tunnel area or rear of the Tunnel to fit the transmission? Please let me know. Pulling parts together for a 68 C10 I'm working on.

Thank you! I appreciate it.

We just installed a high hump in the floor with no other modifications other than a little massaging to one of the ends. It was a GM reproduction piece for 4wd trucks I believe. You should already have the line stamped in the floor to cut. We installed some nut-certs and that’s what’s holding it in. I’m however going to be putting some silicon down to completely seal it.

Here’s the link to the exact one I got
https://www.brotherstrucks.com/1967-72-CHEVY_GMC-TRUCK-HIGH-HUMP-FLOOR-COVER-STEEL/productinfo/HHC6772/

Good luck on your build!

[C Presley]

Dude, again Nice Build! Thanks for the link.

[Cshenker1121]

Dude, again Nice Build! Thanks for the link.

Thank you very much and your welcome!

[kmc3420]

Scary as hell it’s like a completely different truck, it drives like it use to till you hit 3000-3500.

I like getting on the freeway in 3rd and 4th and just rolling into it. That’s my favorite. It just pulls so hard!


Totally happy with it. We had the make some changes to the scavenge system. I will update with pics when I do that. Gathering parts. Thanks everyone!!!!

haha!! Awesome and glad you are getting to enjoy this thing. Be safe!

[Cshenker1121]

haha!! Awesome and glad you are getting to enjoy this thing. Be safe!

Thank you sir!

[tm5nardo]

Amazing build. Nice job! Would love to see it in action.

[andrewb70]

Very cool build...I am not sure how I missed it before...

Andrew

[Cshenker1121]

Very cool build...I am not sure how I missed it before...

Andrew

Thank you!

[Cshenker1121]

So after driving it for a few days, we noticed the turbine and compressor housings were seeping oil, enough to get into the charge tubes and the exhaust. So we are building a sump tank for the turbos to drain into, then from there it will go into the scavenge pump and up into the motor. We also think some of this has to do with there not being check valves on the feed lines. So I’m going to remedy both of those issues.

I also pulled some of the turbo kit off to clean out the oil and while that’s being done I dropped off the turbine housings to get ceramic coated hoping it will help with the temperatures seeing they are next to wiring/ brakes lines etc.

The turbos work awesome, Just need to perfect the oiling system for them is all. At least it’s something simple [emoji16]

[andrewb70]

I was going to say something about the need for little sumps for the oil drains...but....LOL

[Cshenker1121]

I was going to say something about the need for little sumps for the oil drains...but....LOL

Yeah the company we got the scavenge pump from assured us it has the power to pull the oil without the tank. And letting it run after it’s shut off with a timed relay would work perfectly fine and oil wouldn’t run back. Welp they were WRONG lol

[andrewb70]

Yeah the company we got the scavenge pump from assured us it has the power to pull the oil without the tank. And letting it run after it’s shut off with a timed relay would work perfectly fine and oil wouldn’t run back. Welp they were WRONG lol

Check out DigitalSolos Mustang build.

[Cshenker1121]

Check out DigitalSolos Mustang build.

I like how he did his, I’d like to do something similar for the little tanks under mine but unfortunately I feel it would be difficult considering my turbo drain bolts is how my turbos mounted in place. That is a bad ass car.

[Cshenker1121]

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So after brainstorming with these guys we came up with the solution to control the oil problem

We put a check valve in the oil return line after the scavenge pump, put in a sump tank, made new return lines , and also put check valves in the oil feed lines. So far no oil issues. Put some miles on it today and no smoke or oil seepage. And to help control the heat I got the exhaust housings ceramic coated. 186331

[Cshenker1121]

186342

[Cshenker1121]

Now I am working on venting the crankcase. The single catch can I have with the little lines aren’t going to work, it was good enough for the stock engine but not now. So I am now running two moroso catch cans with a -10 to each valve cover. I’m getting the fitting welded this week and will make the other line. Just trying to perfect it as I drive it more.187360187361187362

[Cshenker1121]

187628187629

Done!


If both valve covers are vented can I remove the little pcv hose the goes from the valley cover to the intake and cap off both ports?

[Cshenker1121]

188809 New 4” aluminum driveshaft, my old one had a bunch of run out and vibration. So hopefully this will help.

[Cshenker1121]

Put V bands on the headers to stop the exhaust leaks, they were driving me nuts. Weighed the truck too.

Big stereo with 2 12’s and an amp
Twin turbo LS3
T56
AC
Air to water with ice tank
Longbed
Hotchkis suspension
Full interior
ECE truck arms
Full tank of gas


3900lbs 55/45

190290190291190292190293190308

[andrewb70]

Man, that's not bad at all for weight. My 70 GTO is right there with you and it doesn't have the weight of the turbo components.

Andrew

[Cshenker1121]

Man, that's not bad at all for weight. My 70 GTO is right there with you and it doesn't have the weight of the turbo components.

Andrew

I am pretty happy with the weight, especially with it being a long bed. Thank you!

[Cshenker1121]

190671190672

Other air cleaners were super restrictive and had the little metal insert in the end of it that I guess comes off and usually trashes the compressor wheel on the turbo. So I got rid of those. Since I am a little cramped for space I picked up these “shorty turbo” K&N filters and it definitely is breathing way better. The Turbo needs 1000cfm of air flow and in most cases the only way to do that is to run a turbo guard or a HUGE air filter. These aren’t flowing that much. But they’re much better than the others. Heat wrapped the pipes too.

[syborg tt]

Such an awesome build !!!!

[Cshenker1121]

Such an awesome build !!!!

Thank you!

[Cshenker1121]

191598191599

A couple new things we are going to install. I will post pics as we do them.

Turbowerx Exa Pump

Maven turbo mounts

[Cshenker1121]

192145192146

New turbo mounts

[Cshenker1121]

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Exa pump mounted

[ryeguy2006a]

What a great build! I just realized that there is a pro-touring trucks page. Very clean job you are doing here.

[Cshenker1121]

What a great build! I just realized that there is a pro-touring trucks page. Very clean job you are doing here.

I can’t take all of the credit, I have some very talented friends, but thank you very much!

[Cshenker1121]

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All finished

[syborg tt]

What an awesome truck !!

[Cshenker1121]

What an awesome truck !!

Thank you!

[Cshenker1121]

194922194923194924194925194926

Trying to keep the IAT’s down so we moved the bellows that were by the housings, they were way too close and got the compressor housing very hot, so we made a new hot side and added some support for the exhaust. The turbo stuff is super heavy so we just add some more brackets/hangers. We’re probably going to box the frame where the turbos are next. But the new hot side helped the heat problem.

[Texasdeere]

Beautiful work! There's a lot going on under there!

[Cshenker1121]

Beautiful work! There's a lot going on under there!

Yes there is thank you sir!

[Cshenker1121]

Yes there is thank you sir!

197801

[Cshenker1121]

So after running the truck on the dyno chasing more driveline vibrations. We found out 3 of the 4 wheels were bent. We ended up ordering forgeline RB3C’s. Polished lip with titanium centers. 19x9 in the front, 20x12 in the rear with a 335 tire is what myself and the shop chose. Hoping that’ll look good with it being a longbed and lowering it a little.

We are also narrowing the rear end 2” on each side once the wheels arrive. Forgeline is 12 weeks out but I’ll post pictures once they arrive. I also had a rendering done of the truck with it painted the original olive green. I will drive the truck a little over winter then start on the body work.
200430

[JFStAmour]

Oh man, that rendering looks fantastic! I love popping into this section and seeing the truck builds.

[Cshenker1121]

Oh man, that rendering looks fantastic! I love popping into this section and seeing the truck builds.

Thank you! I love looking around here too. Lots of cool builds going on.

[andrewb70]

So after running the truck on the dyno chasing more driveline vibrations. We found out 3 of the 4 wheels were bent. We ended up ordering forgeline RB3C’s. Polished lip with titanium centers. 19x9 in the front, 20x12 in the rear with a 335 tire is what myself and the shop chose. Hoping that’ll look good with it being a longbed and lowering it a little.

We are also narrowing the rear end 2” on each side once the wheels arrive. Forgeline is 12 weeks out but I’ll post pictures once they arrive. I also had a rendering done of the truck with it painted the original olive green. I will drive the truck a little over winter then start on the body work.
200430

That will look amazin!

Andrew

[Cshenker1121]

That will look amazin!

Andrew

I really hope it does. I’ll post pictures when they arrive

[72srcool]

Very cool! I have had a few of these trucks, yours is one that I really like!

[Cshenker1121]

Very cool! I have had a few of these trucks, yours is one that I really like!

Thank you very much!

[Jimbo1367]

Great build. Were did you get the SS bellows for the exhaust?
thanks,
jimbo

[Cshenker1121]

Great build. We’re did you get the SS bellows for the exhaust?
thanks,
jimbo

Thank you! They’re Vibrant part #69834. I got mine from summit

[Jimbo1367]

Thanks!!!

[Cshenker1121]

The wheels showed up today
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[andrewb70]

Those look very nice!

[Cshenker1121]

Those look very nice!

Thank you!

[Cshenker1121]

201916

Tires came in today too. They are Michelin pilots

[Cshenker1121]

202310202311

[Cshenker1121]

202333

[Kenneth_C10]

Hi,
Love your car and setup.
Really nice wheels and build you are making, looking forward to see more from you.

If it is ok to ask a question since you have the knowledge , I want to buy Hotchkis TVS system for my C10, I have rocket racing Attack 18X10 5,5BS and 2.5" drop spindles
do you think i will have clearance issues with wheel and control arm since I got issues with control arm touching the rim on the inside when turning both ways to the end on the stock control arms?

Really appreciate some feedback on this.

[Cshenker1121]

Hi,
Love your car and setup.
Really nice wheels and build you are making, looking forward to see more from you.

If it is ok to ask a question since you have the knowledge , I want to buy Hotchkis TVS system for my C10, I have rocket racing Attack 18X10 5,5BS and 2.5" drop spindles
do you think i will have clearance issues with wheel and control arm since I got issues with control arm touching the rim on the inside when turning both ways to the end on the stock control arms?

Really appreciate some feedback on this.


Hello man of course, I had some 18x9 rockets on there with 5.25” bs and they rubbed the lower control arm bad on full lock turning. I added some 1/4” wheel spacers and it was better but would still rub the inside sidewall of the tire on the lower shock bolt. I added some screw in steering stops to help with that but in my opinion the wheels I had were completely wrong back spacing for the TVS suspension I have. And I feel like the 18” wheel with a 5.5” back spacing will be worse. Hope this helps!

[Cshenker1121]

Hello man of course, I had some 18x9 rockets on there with 5.25” bs and they rubbed the lower control arm bad on full lock turning. I added some 1/4” wheel spacers and it was better but would still rub the inside sidewall of the tire on the lower shock bolt. I added some screw in steering stops to help with that but in my opinion the wheels I had were completely wrong back spacing for the TVS suspension I have. And I feel like the 18” wheel with a 5.5” back spacing will be worse. Hope this helps!

202369

Here is the rub mark.

[Kenneth_C10]

Hello man of course, I had some 18x9 rockets on there with 5.25” bs and they rubbed the lower control arm bad on full lock turning. I added some 1/4” wheel spacers and it was better but would still rub the inside sidewall of the tire on the lower shock bolt. I added some screw in steering stops to help with that but in my opinion the wheels I had were completely wrong back spacing for the TVS suspension I have. And I feel like the 18” wheel with a 5.5” back spacing will be worse. Hope this helps!

Thank you a lot really appreciate your answer, this make things a lot easier for me.
I see your new wheels are 19x9 but what back spacing do you run now?

[Cshenker1121]

Thank you a lot really appreciate your answer, this make things a lot easier for me.
I see your new wheels are 19x9 but what back spacing do you run now?

Awesome I’m glad, and I don’t know the back spacing unfortunately. The shop the trucks at did all of the measuring. But I’ll ask them and get back to you.

[Cshenker1121]

202673202674202675

Rear end is finished

[Cshenker1121]

202758202759

[andrewb70]

Looking good!

[Cshenker1121]

Looking good!

Thank you!

[Cshenker1121]

A couple a small things I’m going to do but she’s home.203220

[Jimbo1367]

That’s a Sharp truck

[Cshenker1121]

That’s a Sharp truck

Thank you! Just needs paint and it’ll be good to go

[Cshenker1121]

After banging my head against the wall 100 times fighting heat as well as oiling issues, I finally decided to bring the truck back to N/A. I kept most of my stuff like exhaust and I was at the point where the engine needed to be built to go any further. After looking at how much I had into the truck, it was more important for me to enjoy it and do some road trips rather than keep working on it. It was fun while it lasted!
203251203252

[Big_KID]

Bummer, that was such a neat turbo setup. I thought the low/mid placement would be good for weight distribution but not so good for turbo oiling and street debris. I would be interested to hear details on the oiling and cooling issues mentioned.

[Cshenker1121]

Bummer, that was such a neat turbo setup. I thought the low/mid placement would be good for weight distribution but not so good for turbo oiling and street debris. I would be interested to hear details on the oiling and cooling issues mentioned.

It was absolutely awesome for weight distribution. And the power was great too. But trying to fit air cleaners that flow upwards of 1000cfm of air in that tight space was impossible. The max we could squeeze in there was one that flows 400, anything bigger got extremely close to the hot side or just wouldn’t fit. This cause oil to pull from the bearing cartridge under boost which caused oil in the charge pipes. And it causes a mess. I noticed this when I pulled it apart, adding to this an air filter that close to the ground under the truck got completely dirty within 100-200 miles.

Although the exhaust housings were ceramic coated, in reality they needed turbo blankets. But these turbos were squeezed very close to the frame to make plumbing routing right, so everything although it was under the truck with air movement some things got heat soaked, especially the tailshaft of the transmission. Not to mention doing any transmission work would involve completely tearing the kit out to do so. Just kind of a bummer since I was living on time on the clutch I have.

Air to water although super cool, during summer wasn’t the most idea thing. I much rather have air to air on the truck. Air to water was more of a track approach and although cool looking, needed a 5lb bag of ice to get my IAT’s cool with the hot AZ asphalt under the truck. This was just a personal preference after driving it around.

Finally, the other oil issues. We had the system pretty good. The check valves worked pretty good, the pump worked pretty good, but was not perfect. I had the pump on a timer relay for a minute, even though this was the best it could do it was not perfect, even with the check valve. When I would undo the lines to repair things they were still pretty full Just under the turbo cartridge so if I ever parked on a incline of any kind it would sweep.

It was a fun experience learning everything but I would much rather have a 550-600whp N/A combo for what I want to do. Keeping up on that just kind of wore out my wallet chasing perfection. Finally threw up my hands and said enough is enough lol [emoji23]

[Jimbo1367]

Sorry to hear your ditching the snails. The main thing is to enjoy the truck. Thanks for sharing the build

[Cshenker1121]

Sorry to hear your ditching the snails. The main thing is to enjoy the truck. Thanks for sharing the build


I was bummed too but it’s much more fun and enjoyable now. Thank you

[andrewb70]

Plenty of room under the hood for the new Magnuson 3100 blower

[Cshenker1121]

Plenty of room under the hood for the new Magnuson 3100 blower

Probably down the road, either that or a nice NA combo. I need to get the damn thing painted already.

[andrewb70]

Paint is overrated

[Cshenker1121]

204283
Little cruise with my Harley friend. Runs great

[Jimbo1367]

Paint is overrated
Says the guy who tears into a LS3 swapped car in favor of a 5.3L Forged turbo project. LOL

[Cshenker1121]

I had tail pipes fabricated to help with the drone noise when cruising 206887
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