Help! Wilwood Internal Parking Brake & Lokar Handle

[Tincup]

Help! anyone else using the Wilwood internal parking brake setup with a Lokar handle. For the life of me I can't get this setup to work. I've tried adjusting the shoes tight, you can hardly lift the handle, maybe 1 click, but won't hold the car. I've tried setting the shoes loose, I can lift the handle about 3 - 4 clicks, still won't hold the car. I even machined longer spreader arms for the internal shoes, ( adding more leverage ) still will not hold the car. The cables are Lokar, they are short, maybe 4 ft. no kinks, the only thing I can think of is that the internal drums could be out of round, thereby the shoes are only contacting in a few spots instead of all the way around. I'm open to any and all suggestions, Thanks......

[65 drop top]

I'll follow along with this post. I just hooked up Wilwood drums with Lokar cables to my stock e-brake pedal. I'm having the same issue. If I step on the pedal it gets firm at 3 clicks but that won't hold the car. I have to practically stand on the pedal to get the 4th click then it'll hold. I think the arm that comes out the back side of the backing plate could be longer to increase leverage. I'm just hoping that maybe the cables with stretch a little and settle in and allow better engagement.

[dontlifttoshift]

Two problems. These are my opinions.

1. The Lokar handle wasn't engineered for disc brakes. I have used several handles with drums with out issue. There just isn't enough leverage in the Lokar handle to engage an internal drum or separate spot caliper.

2. When using the Lokar cables, you lose the systems ability to self balance. If one brake grabs early, you are pulling the handle against that one brake and the other one may be grabbing very little, if at all. That could be due to different cable length or routing, different adjustments side to side, or different amounts of contact between the drums and shoes. If you look at an OEM setup with the horseshoe, you can see that if one side grabs then any additional force will be used to apply the other brake.

131233

In the above picture that I stole from the interwebs, you can see a couple of things. Note how the intermediate cable wraps up on the handle to give some cam action and greatly increase leverage. Then where the intermediate connects to the rear cables there is a balance bar, much like a dual master cylinder set up would use. That allows equal tension to be applied to both cables.

[Tincup]

I'll follow along with this post. I just hooked up Wilwood drums with Lokar cables to my stock e-brake pedal. I'm having the same issue. If I step on the pedal it gets firm at 3 clicks but that won't hold the car. I have to practically stand on the pedal to get the 4th click then it'll hold. I think the arm that comes out the back side of the backing plate could be longer to increase leverage. I'm just hoping that maybe the cables with stretch a little and settle in and allow better engagement.

I actually did that, I machined new arms exactly 1" longer, didn't really help.

- - - Updated - - -


Two problems. These are my opinions.

1. The Lokar handle wasn't engineered for disc brakes. I have used several handles with drums with out issue. There just isn't enough leverage in the Lokar handle to engage an internal drum or separate spot caliper.

2. When using the Lokar cables, you lose the systems ability to self balance. If one brake grabs early, you are pulling the handle against that one brake and the other one may be grabbing very little, if at all. That could be due to different cable length or routing, different adjustments side to side, or different amounts of contact between the drums and shoes. If you look at an OEM setup with the horseshoe, you can see that if one side grabs then any additional force will be used to apply the other brake.

131233

In the above picture that I stole from the interwebs, you can see a couple of things. Note how the intermediate cable wraps up on the handle to give some cam action and greatly increase leverage. Then where the intermediate connects to the rear cables there is a balance bar, much like a dual master cylinder set up would use. That allows equal tension to be applied to both cables.

Your probably right, the problem is in the handle. I never cared for the Lokar handle, it's kind of cheesy.....

[dontlifttoshift]

We had success with these in the past.

http://www.controlcables.com/kit-1-complete-emergency-brake-lever-kit-includes-lay-down-ratchet-parking-brake-lever-boot-and-ring-assembly-cable-mounting-bracket-easy-junction-bracket-pn-b1000b101b102bez200/

Or there is always the E-Stop.

[Tincup]

We had success with these in the past.

http://www.controlcables.com/kit-1-complete-emergency-brake-lever-kit-includes-lay-down-ratchet-parking-brake-lever-boot-and-ring-assembly-cable-mounting-bracket-easy-junction-bracket-pn-b1000b101b102bez200/

Or there is always the E-Stop.

Thanks,

If I had the room for the E-Stop, I would put one in....

[65 drop top]

How does the E-stopp balance the system if using Lokar cables?

[a67]

You should also bed the shoes to the drum, just the same as if new brake pads were installed.

Bob.

[Tincup]

I took a shot and ordered a new handle. I spent hours searching Ebay trying to find just the right one that would fit my car, and also has a longer arm to increase leverage. I ended up with a 1998 Mustang handle, It looks like it will fit the bill. I'll update once I get it installed.131284

[Tincup]

Well the new handle did the trick. Not only is it longer, easy to mount, but it has a built in "Slack Adjuster" highly recommended.....

[65 drop top]

Well the new handle did the trick. Not only is it longer, easy to mount, but it has a built in "Slack Adjuster" highly recommended.....

That's good to know, glad it worked out for you. I'm building a '55 Chevy now with Wilwoods so I'll be looking into the Mustang handle as well.