1960 Falcon

[Walther]

I figured I've got enough done to start sharing. I'm north of 50, and this will be my most ambitious build, ever. I wanted to be different, so I searched for a platform that hasn't been used too often. After spending too much time on the internet, I came across this rendering and fell in love.
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So the obvious next step was to find a 1960 Falcon, and eBay to the rescue. I found this one in Georgia for a mere $800, bought it, drove up from Florida (where I lived at the time) and hauled to to my property in the North Carolina Mountains.
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[Walther]

To me, the next step was to select the right wheels. I wanted something that looked correct for the era, but would fit modern sized tires and brakes. Once again, back to the internet where I found these. They were actually designed for a 350/370Z, but the center bore and bolt pattern fit a Ford. Back spacing wasn't a concern because I knew I would be designing and building my own suspension. So I ended up with 18x9.5 and 18x11. Tires are BFG Rival S in 275/35 and 315/30.
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[LowFast]

Very cool, always glad to see more falcons.

[Walther]

More random ebay searches revealed a race shop in Michigan that was pulling 2015 Mustang IRS assemblies out of cars to convert the cars for the drag strip. For a meager $1500.00 (plus shipping) I got a complete, hub to hub, IRS with brakes and a 3.55:1 LSD with zero miles on it. (The picture is deceptive, the tires only stick out past the body 4" per side. Since I plan to flare the car like the rendering, it worked out perfect.)
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[Walther]

OK, I was going to continue the project update, but for whatever reason a red icon pops up next to my attempted photo uploads that says "undefined". :hmm:

What am I doing wrong?

[Godbolt]

Not sure Walther but I am loving it. Hope you sort it soon.

[Walther]

Tried to answer your PM. Dont know if you got it?

[Godbolt]

Got it! Thanks. Those wheels look fantastic on there.
James

[Walther]

I decided on a Mustang II front. I only found one supplier that offered a MII in a 64" hub to hub width with power steering; Fatman's Fabrication in Charlotte. I had them fixture weld the crossmember and add the frame rails so that I knew it would be square.

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[Walther]

With the front mocked, I started the rear frame rails. They were bent to my specifications by Autoweldchassis.com. The rearward mounts are directly below the frame rails, while the front mounts I will need to fabricate. I tack-welded angle iron on both sets of rails to keep them square during assembly and welding. I cut the crossmember to fit within the rocker panels. I plan to get the chassis rolling with homemade shock simulators. I'll then finish gutting the body, floor, and firewall and lower the body over the chassis. (Note: I have a beautiful 1200 sqft shop, but since the main house is just now in the design phase and scheduled to be built by Thanksgiving, half of the shop is filled with boxes and furniture. I hope to triple my floor space soon!)
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[puddin head]

Definitely keeping an eye on this one. Have a 60'Falcon myself. Always thought it would be cool to be low and big flares like a grand am car. Please keep posting pics. Subscribed!

[Twentyover]

May want to investigate rumning a spar from the frame rail to the rear lower A-arm pivot, to help the lower shaft tube take the bending load. Been some talk over the last couple years on Jalopy Journal about the weld at the crossmember fracturing and the lower A-arm walking around when loaded

[Protour_Pinto]

How much were the custom bent frame parts? Was there a long turn around on them?

[Z06killinSBF]

Awesome, I love this

[Walther]

May want to investigate rumning a spar from the frame rail to the rear lower A-arm pivot, to help the lower shaft tube take the bending load. Been some talk over the last couple years on Jalopy Journal about the weld at the crossmember fracturing and the lower A-arm walking around when loaded

I was already planning on gusseting that area. Thank you- and please keep passing on the advice. I like posting to show off (obviously), but I am the type of person that covets the opinions of others. Also, the car will have an SCCA style road race cage, albeit with door bars that allow easier access and egress. I plan to run sanctioned hill climbs with the car (there are several in North Carolina), with the ultimate bucket list of Pikes Peak. I figured the cage will go a long way to stiffening up the car.

[Walther]

How much were the custom bent frame parts? Was there a long turn around on them?

$550.xx with shipping. About two weeks from order to receipt.

[Protour_Pinto]

$550.xx with shipping. About two weeks from order to receipt.

Thanks!

[andrewb70]

More random ebay searches revealed a race shop in Michigan that was pulling 2015 Mustang IRS assemblies out of cars to convert the cars for the drag strip. For a meager $1500.00 (plus shipping) I got a complete, hub to hub, IRS with brakes and a 3.55:1 LSD with zero miles on it. (The picture is deceptive, the tires only stick out past the body 4" per side. Since I plan to flare the car like the rendering, it worked out perfect.)
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Looks like a great deal. What's the track width on those rear ends?

Andrew

[Walther]

Looks like a great deal. What's the track width on those rear ends?

Andrew

64.25" hub to hub width.

[neongreen]

I like this! Good to see another roundbody falcon here. What powerplant are you thinking?

[Walther]

I like this! Good to see another roundbody falcon here. What powerplant are you thinking?

90% sure I'm going with a 5.0 TiVct and 6-speed. They're readily available from salvage yards as a complete take-out assembly. My alternative choice would be a 3.5 Ecoboost, but adapting a manual transmission is expensive and the engine would require substantially more fabrication to install. So the cheaper and easier choice would be the more powerful Coyote.

[68Formula]

90% sure I'm going with a 5.0 TiVct and 6-speed. They're readily available from salvage yards as a complete take-out assembly. My alternative choice would be a 3.5 Ecoboost, but adapting a manual transmission is expensive and the engine would require substantially more fabrication to install. So the cheaper and easier choice would be the more powerful Coyote.

That's a wide engine. With the MII suspension, you'll be taking out the shock towers, but even then will there be enough room?

[neongreen]

He should be fine, that engine has been put in various 60s Fords with IFS.

[LowFast]

That's a wide engine. With the MII suspension, you'll be taking out the shock towers, but even then will there be enough room?
It will be tight but the modular engines fit without issue once shock towers are "adjusted". My 3v fit without issue.

[Walther]

Already calculated the dimensions. The frame rails are 33" inside to inside. Stock shock towers and inner fenders are being cut out and new ones will be fabricated. I'm anticipating ample space around the engine as a result But thank you for the advice. I honestly appreciate it.

[MTZ28]

I'm excited to watch this build come together. Great score on the IRS. I would LOVE to see an ecoboost in your car. We have one in my wife's expedition, and my first thought after we bought it was "this would be freaking awesome in a pt build." I have no idea how much more money and time it would take, but...it would set your car apart. Either way your car will be a fun one to watch, great job so far. I really like the rendering.

Are you considering auto weld chassis for your roll bar/cage? If your going to have one, that is.

[Restomod]

Im digging this build! The 3.5 ecoboost would be sweet with a 5 speed. How about some black jdm style bolt on flairs, they would stand out great against the white body.

[rustomatic]

I like the ideas here--we may wind up with very similar round-body Falcons at some point (some of mine is on Lateral G). That's a good thing, in my book. I just need to stop tweaking on my brown beater Ranchero . . .

[Walther]

I'm excited to watch this build come together. Great score on the IRS. I would LOVE to see an ecoboost in your car. We have one in my wife's expedition, and my first thought after we bought it was "this would be freaking awesome in a pt build." I have no idea how much more money and time it would take, but...it would set your car apart. Either way your car will be a fun one to watch, great job so far. I really like the rendering.

Are you considering auto weld chassis for your roll bar/cage? If your going to have one, that is.

I have my own Pro-Tools tubing bender. Thanks though.

[Walther]

Im digging this build! The 3.5 ecoboost would be sweet with a 5 speed. How about some black jdm style bolt on flairs, they would stand out great against the white body.

I actually already purchased some. Problem is they are not wide enough.

[Walther]

Im digging this build! The 3.5 ecoboost would be sweet with a 5 speed. How about some black jdm style bolt on flairs, they would stand out great against the white body.

My hopes were to have a "plug and play" powerplant. Because I want to compete in sanctioned hill climbs, I liked the idea of forced induction to compensate for altitude changes. However, there is already so much fabrication that needs to take place. Adding an Ecoboost would add to that list, needing custom intake tubes, down pipes, and intercooler. Also, while there will be ample width for the engine, there won't be a lot of depth. Fitting an AC condenser, radiator, and intercooler in front of the engine may be a huge undertaking.

[Dave B]

Oh my, this is going to be awesome!

[Walther]

Christmas in July! Ride Tech rear shocks. Luckily, Ride Tech makes a complete set-up for a 2015 Mustang IRS. When I was trial fitting the front shock on the rear, the rear sway bar links were interfering the the coil springs. Turns out they make a relocation kit to move the sway bar and allow clearance. I was also concerned about the strength of the (aluminum) lower rear control arms to handle a coil-over setup. Huge thanks to Josh at Ride Tech for walking me through it (Josh is actually on this forum with his Fox Mustang) Here are the shocks with the adapter mounts for the 2015 IRS. I'll fabricate the upper mounts. This part will now be easier than anticipated.
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[migg400]

Looks like a killer project....My vote (if it counts LOL) would be for the Coyote!

[Walther]

Looks like a killer project....My vote (if it counts LOL) would be for the Coyote!

Yeah, logic is pushing me in that direction. It seems like upgrading a 3.5 Ecoboost to decent HP levels would be really expensive. If I go with a Coyote, it seems that it's relatively easy to get the HP numbers up over 600 with the addition of a supercharger. The car would be powered by a stock 5.0 for the first 500 or so miles, and I really don't want numbers much higher than 600HP. In my opinion, the car would start breaking stuff and be a bear to drive on a tight hill-climb. I just haven't heard the best reviews on the internals of a Coyote. Pressed-Powder rods and so forth. So I'll follow your build with interest.

[Walther]

This was a (failed) experiment for JDM Style flares. I liked the look, but the dimensions didn't work. I'll eventually attempt making my own steel flares but I'm a long way off from needing to take that step.
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I'm now hip-deep into the deconstruction phase. It's amazing how much "fight" 55 year old bolts and screws put up. I've been using more drills and grinders than wrenches. It took me a fricking hour and a half to get the passenger door off. I sweated, cussed, and bled.
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[rchaskin]

....I plan to run sanctioned hill climbs with the car (there are several in North Carolina), with the ultimate bucket list of Pikes Peak......

Dont forget HWY 181 AND 80.

The top of 181 thru the parkway to Blowing rock is one of my favorites!!

[Walther]

Dont forget HWY 181 AND 80.

The top of 181 thru the parkway to Blowing rock is one of my favorites!!

NC-80 south past the parkway is a BLAST!!! We are still not full-time Green Mountain residents. My wife's employer keeps us in Charlotte (actually Fort Mill, SC) but I drive up 3-4 times a month (the car/shop is in Green Mountain) Every trip I bypass 226 in Marion just to take NC-80, but it's in a '14 F150. :( I've never driven 181. Yet. :)

For the rest of you, NC-80 is one of the curviest roads I've ever driven, and it descends nearly 1000 feet in a few miles. The closest you can come to driving off a cliff.

[Zoomin]

Looks like the floors have some rust. I'm thinking you may as well mount that Coyote behind the front seats....


J/k! Very neat project.

[Walther]

Looks like the floors have some rust. I'm thinking you may as well mount that Coyote behind the front seats....


J/k! Very neat project.

Yeah, the floors are pretty wasted. Luckily I'm cutting out the floor all the way to the rear bumper.

[Walther]

I found this project on Facebook. Because of my project, I was focused on the flares. They sure make it look easy. It's not, but I'm encouraged none the less.
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[Walther]

This week I continued working on getting the chassis rolling on it's own four wheels. The beauty of the 2015 IRS sub-frame is that all the alignment and mounts are a non-issue. I just have to fit the sub-frame to my chassis. Here are the rear mounts. Pretty straight forward. I gusseted the frame rails so they wouldn't crush when I torqued the sub-frame mounting bolts.
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[Walther]

The front mounts for the sub-frame I found to be a bit more complicated. Using scrap pieces of 2x2 square tube, angle iron, 1/4" plate I was able to get it mounted. Not having a frame table slowed the process down considerably, as I had to move the sub-frame in various directions several times to get it squared to the chassis. I'll probably add more gussets and cross braces. I obviously don't want the sub-frame moving around. I'm more concerned with lateral movement, as I anticipate tremendous side loading. If y'all see anything I should add or that I missed, please comment.
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[Z06killinSBF]

That's an awesome Mustang, whos building it? There are some pretty good tutorials out there on fender flare making. Look up on FB or IG "Cut Worm Specialties".

[Walther]

That's an awesome Mustang, whos building it? There are some pretty good tutorials out there on fender flare making. Look up on FB or IG "Cut Worm Specialties".

Timeless Kustoms in Camarillo, California. Thanks for the tip.

[Chev Korbin]

This is going to be a fantastic project! look forward to the progress

[Motown 454]

Sweet project I like what you doing. It's nice to see someone catch a brake for a change like the Mustang rear you got,good deal.

[Walther]

I got some more important steps accomplished today. First, I finished both sides of the front sub-frame mounts. Now that they are plumb and level, I started finished welding parts of the frame that were tacked in place.
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Next on the list was the upper shock mounts for the IRS
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And finally, I made shock simulators after calling the guys at Ride Tech to get the ride height of the shocks (12.5 to 13 inches, as it turns out)
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[blade]

nice project can't wait to see more. Great progress so far.

[Godbolt]

The Cortex Racing 66 mustang got some pretty serious flares too-

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/1207phr-1966-ford-mustang/

[Godbolt]

And a Cougar they did, but not as extreme-

[Walther]

And a Cougar they did, but not as extreme-

I am really torn as far as attempting to fabricate the flares myself, or outsource them to a reputable fabricator. I'm confident making floorpans, etc. but "fine" metal work like scoops and flares is another topic entirely. My single biggest issue is that fenders and quarter panels for this year/model are really difficult and expensive to find, and there are no reproduction pieces. If this was a Fox Mustang (example) I would dive straight in because a failed first or second attempt could be scrapped without a huge hit to the overall build budget. Regardless, I'm still 4-6 months away from making the decision.

[Josh@Ridetech]

Awesome, Walther. I'm happy to be a part of this project! It's coming together great!

[Walther]

I've been doing a lot of reading about aligning the rear sub-frame. Apparently a factory flaw with 2015+ Mustangs is the rear assembly tends to shift under load. Several aftermarket companies have developed different devices to adjust the sub-frame, but I wasn't convinced that the set-up would work in a custom application. My solution was to add angled control arms and a track bar. The idea is I can adjust the track and pitch of the sub-frame at any time, should the assembly move under load. That, and I have been using a common tape measure so far, and I doubt the alignment is where it should be. So now, I will be able to loosen the mounting bolts (1/2" x 6" that go through bushings that are 1.125" ID) and adjust the control arms and track bar to align the sub-frame. Then tighten the mounting bolts again and its fully aligned. I just ordered the threaded tubes to complete the set-up.

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[Walther]

nice project can't wait to see more. Great progress so far.

Thanks

[LowFast]

Question, why not just "hard mount" the sub frame without the rubber bushings, effectively isn't that what the bracing is doing?

[Z06killinSBF]

On the flares just remember if you can make it out of cardboard you can make it out of steel. It'll just take some thinking and laying out.

[Walther]

Question, why not just "hard mount" the sub frame without the rubber bushings, effectively isn't that what the bracing is doing?

My issue/concern was getting the sub-frame perfectly square, side to side and front to back. I'm confident that it's with a 1/4 to 1/8 of an inch now, but that's enough to cause the car to "dog-track" or be unpredictable in turns. My original plan was to weld the sub-frame in, but I do not have a frame table. I tried plumb-bobs too, but I couldn't find a "uniform" place to hang them from. So I figured that until I get it to a four-wheel alignment rack, I better have a way to adjust it. Please note that the rear suspension itself is not adjustable, so I opted to adjust the whole assembly. Did I over-think and over-engineer this? Possibly. I've been guilty of that more than once.

[Walther]

On the flares just remember if you can make it out of cardboard you can make it out of steel. It'll just take some thinking and laying out.

I am confident I can do some rat-rod style flares, but I've never done "fine" metal work. I am willing to try and learn, but body parts for this car are hard to come by and expensive when you find them. My thoughts are; If I screw up I have to drop several hundred dollars after searching for a replacement part. The way I see it, the flares are going to be the first and most notable aspect of the car that people will notice. If they look like crap, it doesn't matter how nice the rest of the car is. IMO.

[Walther]

I just recently purchased a NASCAR style, 3 piece sway bar from Speedway Engineering. Tech guys there walked me through the process of getting it to fit my application. When it arrived the dimensions were perfect, however my originally anticipated mounting location revealed that the arms of the bar would be very close to the tie-rods and steering arms. My solution was to mount it above the frame rail rather than below. The engine will be set back far enough that clearance won't be an issue. I still have to gusset the lower a-arm mounting points as has already been suggested.
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The threaded rods arrived from Coleman Racing. My intent all along was to make the alignment of the sub-frame adjustable. In reading different forums about 2015 Mustangs, there is evidence that the sub-frame moves around under high loads. I didn't want to weld the sub-frame directly to the chassis because I don't have access to to a frame table to assure the sub-frame was perfectly aligned. I didn't want to build a frame table for one project, so this was my solution. Now that both the front and rear suspension are fully mocked up, I will be lowering the body over the rolling chassis in the coming weeks.
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[LowFast]

Good idea on the swaybar. I might have to steal the idea if I find my current front bar to be too soft.

[MichaelUser]

Good idea on the swaybar. I might have to steal the idea if I find my current front bar to be too soft.

I like the sway bar too. Have you thought about going through the frame and using round stock to locate the bar? It can also serve as the front frame connector.

[Restomod]

Really diggin it! Cant wait for body on pics.

[Walther]

I like the sway bar too. Have you thought about going through the frame and using round stock to locate the bar? It can also serve as the front frame connector.

I did think of that, but I'm using a 2x3 frame. Drilling through the frame would probably weaken it too much, IMO. Once complete, the car will have a front halo, circle track style, with the crossover point near the radiator core support. From that halo I plan to extend tubes downward to reinforce the frame at the suspension crossmember and the swaybar mount points. The chassis should be pretty stiff, so I opted not to go with 2x4 frame rails to save weight

[Walther]

Thanks Restomod.

[Peter Mc Mahon]

no worries about the crank pulley around the sway bar? Have you test fit a motor yet?

[Walther]

no worries about the crank pulley around the sway bar? Have you test fit a motor yet?

Peter, I'm using dimensional drawings for a Coyote engine to make the determination. I haven't purchased the engine yet. I am 75% sure I am going with a Coyote, but I may go with a 3.5L Ecoboost. Either way. there should be a 8-10" gap between the bar and the front of the engine. I measured numerous times and always come up with what appears to be plenty of room because the engine will be set back substantially. But thank you for pointing it out. I am always looking for advice and opinions.

[MOREHORSEPOWER]

Very kool project !!!

[linkstar69]

Super cool rendering to get the ball rolling, looking forward to following along with the progress

[Jerems]

Very cool, great job so far on the fab.

[Walther]

Well it's been almost a year. I've been busy building a house. The good news is all the boxes and furniture that were cluttering up the shop are now moved into the basement of the new house.
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With the extra room in the shop, I got busy pulling the motor and cutting more of the floor and firewall away. I now have unlimited time to dedicate to this project and it should move along rapidly now.
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[Motown 454]

Damn nice hose good luck in it. If you do anything close to the way the hose looks you'll be golden! I like the early Falcons. My buddy had a 2 door wagon.

[Boosted Falcon]

What a awesome build and great to see you back at it.
Beautiful house BTW

[Walther]

I had to move the body and chassis out into the yard to make room for a 2-post lift install. I anticipate the body, once fully gutted, coming on and off the chassis a few times. It will be easier to finish weld the roll cage and paint it with the body off. Since I am doing most all of this alone, a lift became necessary. I just thought this was a neat picture.
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[Walther]

I got the 2-post lift installed, making it substantially easier to work on the car. First order of business was to cut the fender openings to accommodate the 315/30/18's that protrude 4.5" past the body. I made a template out of poster board and measured numerous times.
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[Walther]

After grinding away what was left of the floor pan, trunk, and most of the firewall, I realized that I had done enough to lower the body onto the frame. I encountered a few unanticipated issues, but over all it was a success. I figure the body will be off and on several times, so the lift has been a good investment so far.
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[rustomatic]

Nice progress!

[wfo guy]

I would name the yard pic "anticipation!" :)
Great house. :)

[Protour_Pinto]

If you have instagram look up @mustangkyle

[Michaels 69]

This is going to be an interesting build.

[badwagon]

Awesome project... love the stance!

[1360]

Huge early Falcon fan, looking forward to progress on this project!!

[813Demon340]

Coming along nicely! Keep up the great progress!

[Walther]

The flares arrived today, custom made to my specs. They are still gonna need a lot of trimming and fitting before I can start tacking and welding them in place. The pictures show a rough mock-up, but they are really close to my rendering.

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[JJK]

Looks great! I had not noticed the gas lid in the rendering, but I see it goes right where its sitting. You are staying very true to the rendering-good job!

[Walther]

Looks great! I had not noticed the gas lid in the rendering, but I see it goes right where its sitting. You are staying very true to the rendering-good job!

Thank you. I stumbled across the rendering on Google a few years back. It became the inspiration for the car I wish I knew who the artist was so I could thank them and keep them updated as well.

[Walther]

SLOWLY starting to take shape. This is more arduous than anticipated but I'm getting there.

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[Motown 454]

Nice!

[HotRod47]

I don't know why this build is just hitting my radar, but I sure am glad it did! I love home built cars with this level of fabrication and ideas. Keep up the great work!!

[Walther]

I don't know why this build is just hitting my radar, but I sure am glad it did! I love home built cars with this level of fabrication and ideas. Keep up the great work!!

Thank you. I often wonder if I have bitten off more than I can chew. I guess if it was easy, everybody would be doing it? I am making a point not to rush.

[Walther]

Haven't posted in a while because of holidays and whatnot, but after 2000 tacks per side and some trimming, the flares are really starting to take shape.
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[Walther]

The Coyote I ordered off of eBay finally came in and I wasted no time lowering it into the chassis- only to learn that I screwed up my chassis design. Even though I used measurements available on the internet, it turns out they were not accurate and as a result the engine sat way too high in the chassis. The valve covers would have been through the hood. Damn, I hate re-doing things.

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here it is with a fender mocked up in position.

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[Walther]

My solution was to install some 2" dropped spindles I luckily had on a shelf. I then broke out the plasma cutter and cut the cross-member out. I used a section of another M2 crossmember, measured over and over, then welded it in place and "boxed" the ends.

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The finished product is now 3" lower. With the addition of the 2" dropped spindles, the engine will sit 5" lower as compared to the hood. All thats left to do is section and raise the frame rails to achieve the original desired ride height. I ordered some mandrel bent frame sections to "splice" in, but they have yet to arrive.

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[Martin71RS]

I love this build, great work!

[Walther]

I love this build, great work!

Thank you.

[HotRod47]

I have to say I am completely confused and maybe am missing something. How does adding 2" dropped spindles have anything to do with engine placement height? I get that dropping the crossmember 3" effectively lowered the engine the same amount. Easy.

But the dropped spindles...... I must be tired because I don't understand that one. How would adding 2" dropped spindles have any affect on the hood line to the engine? I'm sure its me, brain not turned on?

[Walther]

I have to say I am completely confused and maybe am missing something. How does adding 2" dropped spindles have anything to do with engine placement height? I get that dropping the crossmember 3" effectively lowered the engine the same amount. Easy.

But the dropped spindles...... I must be tired because I don't understand that one. How would adding 2" dropped spindles have any affect on the hood line to the engine? I'm sure its me, brain not turned on?

Normally you would be right. By installing the dropped spindles, the entire chassis became 2" lower to the ground. Dropping the crossmember got me 3 more inches. HOWEVER, I still have to section the frame uprights to raise the frame back up in relation to the crossmember- to the height it was before I installed the drop spindles. The body mounts to that portion of the frame. So I'm raising the body back up 2". So the crossmember is now a total of 5" lower, but the body will be raised back up in relation to the frame. My process will work, but my explanation may not.

[HotRod47]

Ahhh, now I get it. You hadn't mentioned raising the body back up. Now it makes sense.

[Walther]

I have had comments and PMs about my method. THANK YOU. This isn't about me arguing that I am right, this is me trying to make sure I'm right so I really welcome and appreciate the comments.

A question came up about bump steer. Here is a better picture. The green lines show what I believe to be both the A-arm and the tie rod on a level plane. This picture is with the suspension mocked-up. Most fasteners are finger tight.

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This next picture shows an installed 2" rack extender (red arrow) and how it lined up the pivot points of the A-arm and inner tie rod (green arrow)

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Finally, in this picture, I am going to remove a section of frame rail between the yellow lines. That will raise the frame (where the body mounts are) back up two inches. (red arrow) Please note that this [particular picture was taken before I broke out the plasma cutter. It was my first version of the chassis.

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My tape measure shows that the engine will now sit 5" lower when compared to the body. Please comment if you think I am missing something. Working by myself has it's pitfalls.

[HotRod47]

What will your ground clearance be under the center crossmember with your new plan? Sounds like it will be really low.

[Walther]

What will your ground clearance be under the center crossmember with your new plan? Sounds like it will be really low.

About 4.5". Measured using home-made shock simulators.

[Walther]

I received the frame pieces from Autoweldchassis.com I cut and spliced the pieces in to the existing chassis. As a result, the long frame rails are now 2 inches higher when compared to the cross-member. so- theoretically- the geometry of the chassis is now finally correct. Just have to finish weld the pieces and start fitting the engine.

before....
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after....
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[JRANGER]

very cool build, this will be awesome

[Walther]

With all the changes/corrections I had to make to the frame and cross-member, it was time to lower the body back down over the chassis. It finally fit like I originally hoped. I had to notch the cowl slightly to clear a servo on the back of the intake. It would have fit anyway but I was looking towards the future of possibly having to pull the engine when the body is welded permanently in place. The notch in the cowl will get filled and wont be visible once the hood is closed. The engine actually sits a little low, but it is mocked-up in position on 2x4s at the moment. Once I fabricate the engine "stands" and install the new BMR adjustable poly engine mounts, I'll be able to fine tune the position. I've met my objective of being able to close a stock hood over the engine.

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[LowFast]

Do you have the headers/exhaust manifolds installed? The Falcon engine bay even without shock towers is very tight with the OHC engine configuration. Then introduce the steering shaft, it all becomes a very tight maze.

[Walther]

Do you have the headers/exhaust manifolds installed? The Falcon engine bay even without shock towers is very tight with the OHC engine configuration. Then introduce the steering shaft, it all becomes a very tight maze.

Yes. The engine was shipped with factory manifolds and resonators installed. They cut the exhaust aft of the resonators. Its still all bolted to the engine and everything appears to fit with ample clearances. Please note that I will be fabricating a new firewall which most likely will be further back than the original location by a few inches. I'll also be using a Flaming River steering column, Wilwood Tandem master cylinders and pedal assembly, and my seating position will be moved further back as well. So a lot of the clearance issues you mentioned will either not be a problem or can be worked around. I have two new issues I didn't anticipate. ONE- there is no way the factory oil filter and oil cooler are going to work. I'll have to remote mount both. SECOND- The shifter location on the MT82 Gertrag will be too far towards the rear. I have some ideas on how to resolve that, including either shortening the assembly or fabricating a "remote" shifter location similar to the one I had in my Panoz GTRA racecar. I'll figure that out when the time comes. Also, I'll have to have a custom, shortened driveshaft made. Yet another hit to the budget.

[LowFast]

How much do you need to move the shifter forward? Mine was a bit too far back on the TR3650 so I bought an MGW aftermarket unit which allows adjustment to the position and I got the extra few inches needed for it to fall right into place.

[Walther]

How much do you need to move the shifter forward? Mine was a bit too far back on the TR3650 so I bought an MGW aftermarket unit which allows adjustment to the position and I got the extra few inches needed for it to fall right into place.

I'm not really sure at this point until I get further along. It "seems" currently that the shifter will be just forward of my hips when seated and I'll have to reach back to grab the knob. But I don't have the seats, the seating position, seat distance from the pedals, steering column length etc, figured out yet. I'm not too familiar with the TR3650. This transmission uses a shifter that is bolted to the transmission AND the floor. Different than what I'm used to. The aftermarket seems to be all over it already, offering different "fixes". I don't think its going to be too big of an obstacle, I just haven't really delved into it yet.

I just clipped this off the internet. Close, but mine mounts to the transmission with what looks like a cast-aluminum rod. It would be difficult to section and shorten.
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[LowFast]

TR3650 is also remote mount. I am using Blowfish Racing bracket/driveshaft loop to remove floor mount requirement. They make a bracket for your trans as well.

[Walther]

TR3650 is also remote mount. I am using Blowfish Racing bracket/driveshaft loop to remove floor mount requirement. They make a bracket for your trans as well.

I actually emailed them a few weeks ago. The bracket is trick, but it doesn't resolve my distance issue.

[LowFast]

If you end only needing an inch or two to get it to a confortable distance an aftermarket shifter could get you there. You could also use an angled soft handle to gain alittle more than that. The real reason for the blowfish bracket is more positive higher rpm shift engagement and fewer missed shifts. The body mounted shifter is a terrible idea from Ford.

[1360]

Wow, that is all I can say!!

[nitroracer]

I'm going to enjoy watching this Falcon come together.

[rustomatic]

Many packaging (and weight displacement) problems can be alleviated by just moving the engine and trans further back. At this point, you can put the seat and pedals wherever you want; so long as everything goes back (more is better--mine's about a foot), no single element will be weird. It took me nearly no time to get used to driving from the (slightly behind but mostly ahead of the) B-pillar in mine.

It's funny how I made almost exactly the same notch in my cowl to clear my (Chevy) truck intake; it seems to really help in exhausting engine bay heat while driving; I have no hope of stock wipers ever happening again, however. A guy who races his Fairlane here locally used a hole saw to make a bunch of vents in his cowl, and he seemed to think it really helped air flow over the car (through the engine bay) much more effectively . . .

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[Walther]

The shifter location is the issue with moving the engine further rearward. The unique design of the shifter makes it difficult if not impossible to shorten. If I could shorten it (move it forward) by 8-10" I would do exactly what you're suggesting. The next issue moving the engine further back would put the firewall too close to the back of the dash. In these cars, the dash is metal and welded into the unibody. I think I'd be opening a can of worms. I'll post pics when I get to my PC. Can't seem to do it from my phone. And THANK YOU for commenting. Advice is always welcomed.

[Walther]

The transmission mount was much easier to fabricate than I thought it would be.
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[Walther]

With all the major components in place (Engine, trans, suspension, etc.) I've begun fabricating the roll cage. These are some in-progress photos. It will be a street car that occasionally will see track day events and sanctioned hill climbs, so I'm fabricating a full roll cage from bumper to bumper to stiffen it up. I can't tell you how much easier it is to fabricate a roll cage when you can lift the body on and off.
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[LowFast]

Simple is usually the best solution. One question though,or something to consider. With how you have it in a saddle would you be able to take it off once the body/floor is on if you ever need to drop the transmission?

[Jetfixr320]

Simple is usually the best solution. One question though,or something to consider. With how you have it in a saddle would you be able to take it off once the body/floor is on if you ever need to drop the transmission?

I was thinking the same thing.

[Walther]

I was thinking the same thing.

To be determined. I think so. may have to adjust my design.

[rustomatic]

Why bother taking the trans out without the engine (if the need arises)? When there is so little overhang on the back of the transmission, the amount you'll pull the whole combo forward will obviate the problem of the crossmember's presence. Mine is permanently welded in. Should it present a problem, however, it's angle grinder to the rescue . . .

It's amazing how weird that six-speed you're using looks. My 6l80, which is a fairly modern (automatic) transmission, still uses a basic Turbo 400 mount and yoke.

[Walther]

Why bother taking the trans out without the engine (if the need arises)? When there is so little overhang on the back of the transmission, the amount you'll pull the whole combo forward will obviate the problem of the crossmember's presence. Mine is permanently welded in. Should it present a problem, however, it's angle grinder to the rescue.

Interesting thought. However, if I need to service the clutch or transmission, I wouldn't want to pull the engine. I'm afraid a permanently welded crossmember would prevent me from dropping the transmission out.

[Rod]

The flares arrived today, custom made to my specs. They are still gonna need a lot of trimming and fitting before I can start tacking and welding them in place. The pictures show a rough mock-up, but they are really close to my rendering.

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dig the flares!!!

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[Walther]

dig the flares!!!

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digging your car!!

[Walther]

Steady, measured progress on the cage today. I'm really happy with how "squared" everything is. Maybe patience is a virtue after all. The "Halo" was a particular P.I.T.A. when you're doing it by yourself. Thank goodness for floor-jacks and big magnets.
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[wfo guy]

Just my 2 cents worth from exp. Make sure you can remove the trans by itself. This includes clearance for bell housing bolts and enough clearance rearward to clear the throw out bearing. Things happen and as you seem to recognize, removing most of these engines is difficult. Keep on working. :)

[Walther]

Just my 2 cents worth from exp. Make sure you can remove the trans by itself. This includes clearance for bell housing bolts and enough clearance rearward to clear the throw out bearing. Things happen and as you seem to recognize, removing most of these engines is difficult. Keep on working. :)

Good points. I am trying to be cognizant of that. Hopefully I don't overlook anything. Thanks.

[Walther]

I'm trying to remember that this will be a street car. My days of climbing over roll cages to get into a car are over. That said, I tried to tuck the dash bar up and forward. I needed a foundation for the bars that would go forward to the front suspension. I got it pretty tight, and it should also provide a foundation for mounting the triple cylinders for the brakes and clutch, and be in line with the firewall. I about wore out a Stanley tape measure trying to figure this out, but I think I got it. After I buy the seats I'll figure out the door bars, but they will be low.

Poor picture, but here's view of bar tucked under the dash.
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Here's the front end support bars and dash bar. I still need to fabricate some triangulated bars to strengthen the whole front section, but other than that its complete.
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[Walther]

I had to trim a lot of the original inner fenders away to lower the body to back down on the chassis. Afterwards it became so weak and flimsy that I just cut off the front of inner fenders and the radiator core support. I'll weld it back on later. Won't be too hard. I raised up the whole car to sweep and clean the unbelievably large amount of metal shavings and grinder dust. Wow.

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[Rod]

who made your flares?

[Walther]

who made your flares?

http://vipdout.bigcartel.com/product/ulterior-motives-universal-weld-on-aggressive-high-radius-flares-a-pair

[Walther]

The seats, pedals, and steering column came in, all necessary to figure out the seating position. Once I built the seat mounts and bolted the seats in place, I could fabricate the door bars. I tried different variations but ended up choosing this style. I think they are a combination of function and ergonomics.
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[LowFast]

I like those door bars. Probably more chassis stiffener than side impact protector with them being so low.

[injcted]

Such a cool and unique build! Cant wait to see it finished!

[Walther]

I like those door bars. Probably more chassis stiffener than side impact protector with them being so low.

Exactly. I'm not as limber as I used to be. :)

[Walther]

Thanks. Me either, but I have vowed not to rush. I try to game plan each week and so far I'm on schedule, but it really seems to be progressing more quickly than I anticipated. At this rate, it may be capable of it's first shakedown drive this fall.

[Walther]

Such a cool and unique build! Cant wait to see it finished!

Thanks. Me either, but I have vowed not to rush. I try to game plan each week and so far I'm on schedule, but it really seems to be progressing more quickly than I anticipated. At this rate, it may be capable of it's first shakedown drive this fall.

[Walther]

I had a small oversight on my Wilwood Pedal set-up. I should not have welded the dash bar in without having the pedals to verify their position. Turns out the dash bar is exactly in the path of the master cylinders. I ordered/exchanged the traditional mount for a reverse mount which should solve the issue, then I can get to work on mounting the assembly and the steering column.

In the mean time, I added braces to strengthen everything and/or pass the load to an adjoining chassis component. I still have to figure out a design for a triangulated X-brace behind the main hoop. I do not want any twist or deflection on the chassis.
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[Walther]

Another example of me over-thinking things. I was trying to come up with a unique design for a chassis stiffening x-brace. I ended up with a tried and true design. Simple and effective.
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[Walther]

I finally got all the correct components to fit everything in the car- Pedals, Steering column, Seats, Steering wheel. I extended the mounting point for the upper steering column mount. I felt my original design was too far down the shaft and the column would've moved if I pushed or pulled laterally on the wheel. The seating position is remarkably comfortable. The A-Pillar bars barely interfere with my line of sight. The shifter, steering wheel, and pedals all "feel" like they're in the right place. Even my view point of the (future) Dakota Digital dash is nearly perfect. I'm close to starting the sheet metal, but I think I may need to mock up the exhaust first.
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[LowFast]

Which column did you go with? Brand, length, features, etc.

[Walther]

Which column did you go with? Brand, length, features, etc.

I actually went with a Summit Racing store brand, although I'm pretty sure "Ididit" makes them for Summit. It's a real quality piece. I'm very impressed. A little heavier than I expected. I went with the longest one they offered @ 32" because my seating position is much further back than stock. Note: it uses a GM style plug and turn signal mechanism. I had to remove the 9-hole GM-style steering wheel adapter and buy one for the Grant wheel. Still substantially cheaper than Flaming River. and it has a tilt function.

[LowFast]

That's good to know. I had planned on IDIDIT but they are quite pricey. Any "play" in the Summit unit? That is my biggest fear. Steering to me is one of the most critical parts of enjoying a drive, play in the column or even a steering wheel that has flex is no good. Mine seats are also far back (I'm 6'3") so I would most likely also need the 32" unit. My car will have to be wired from scratch so i am not sure that the style of plug will make much difference. I have not even begun the arduous task of planning out all the wiring, which I dread.

[Walther]

That's good to know. I had planned on IDIDIT but they are quite pricey. Any "play" in the Summit unit? That is my biggest fear. Steering to me is one of the most critical parts of enjoying a drive, play in the column or even a steering wheel that has flex is no good. Mine seats are also far back (I'm 6'3") so I would most likely also need the 32" unit. My car will have to be wired from scratch so i am not sure that the style of plug will make much difference. I have not even begun the arduous task of planning out all the wiring, which I dread.

I'm 6'1", 280(ish) I understand. The column "feels" very solid. No apparent lateral movement in the shaft within the column and very minimal end-play...maybe 0.05" which is both expected and needed. That said, I have yet to install the steering shaft which will be a GM Style "DD" on the column shaft to a Fox power rack & pinion, so I haven't put any real pressure on the column yet. This one cost about $230 if memory serves.

[LowFast]

Well, get to it! So you can tell me if it is all good or not. :rotfl:

[LowFast]

I'm 6'1", 280(ish) I understand.

We bigger guys really should choose larger cars. We would both probably fit in Galaxies better than 2 dr Falcons.

[Walther]

Well, get to it! So you can tell me if it is all good or not. :rotfl:

Yes Sir. My wife insisted that we go to Florida to see our new granddaughter. lol I'm back!

[rustomatic]

Nice job of maintaining the dash! I miss mine--I have to look at the garage wall to find it now. The Falcon has such a nice dash . . .

[Walther]

I am learning not to assume the dimensions and path of parts I don't own yet, but rather wait to buy them, case in point was the exhaust. I thought my first version of a cross-member would clear the exhaust. Nope.

Back to the drawing board. The new cross-member is made from seven pieces of three different materials, but everything clears now.
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[LowFast]

Did you fab the exhaust from scratch?

[Walther]

Did you fab the exhaust from scratch?

I wish I was that good. Lol. The headers and x-pipe are from a 2015 Mustang GT. Everything worked fine except the shape of the #5 primary tube. It was directly in the way of the steering shaft, so I already cut it off and will reshape it later.

[Walther]

I had the body blasted with a crushed glass and water system. Its really neat to see the car in basically one color.
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[Walther]

After spending several days cleaning off all the crushed glass that seemed to stick to everything, I got to work on fabricating the firewall and driveshaft tunnel. It's now obvious how high the engine and transmission sits in the chassis, and how large the tunnel has to be to accommodate it. The interior will end up looking like the interior of my (sold) Panoz GTRA Racecar. Its the price to pay for the 5" ride height I wanted.
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[Zoomin]

Very impressive, Mark!

[Walther]

Very impressive, Mark!

Thank you.

[andrewb70]

Mark,

You, Sir, are doing one hell of a great job!

Andrew

[Walther]

Mark,

You, Sir, are doing one hell of a great job!

Andrew

Thank you.

[Boosted Falcon]

Looking good.

[gnx7]

Great build.... after reading thru it I finally realized why you had the 3 red links to adjust the IRS out back! You are not shy with a plasma cutter and welder that is for sure :)

[Walther]

Great build.... after reading thru it I finally realized why you had the 3 red links to adjust the IRS out back! You are not shy with a plasma cutter and welder that is for sure :)

Thank you. I'm still learning the plasma cutter, like using a straight edge as a guide wherever possible. I'm also a self taught welder. I'm pretty sure I'm getting full penetration welds, but some of them aren't real pretty.

[rustomatic]

That's one seriously sturdy looking tunnel! Is it 16 gauge? You must have a gnarly press brake. Car looks great with the body on!

[Walther]

That's one seriously sturdy looking tunnel! Is it 16 gauge? You must have a gnarly press brake. Car looks great with the body on!

Actually, 20ga. And I got a cheapy Harbor Freight 36" brake. Admittedly, when I do a full 36", it takes a bit of effort

[cornfedbill]

I have liked the early Falcons since I was a kid. You've done a great job with this one. It is looking real good.

[Walther]

thanks

[Walther]

I discovered that the rear crossmember was definitely in the way of the exhaust and leaving it in place would also make removing the driveshaft unnecessarily difficult. I first reinforced it and then cut away the part that was in the way.

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[Walther]

I plan on painting the cage and installing a new headliner before I permanently weld the body in place. So my focus has been to complete floors between the frame rails and not fabricate the outer portions until the chassis and body are permanently joined. So here are some progress pics of the floor, tunnel, and then with everything mocked up for fitment. Thankfully it all still fits.

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[Walther]

Some more updates. I got with Borgenson and they walked me through getting the pieces I needed for the steering link. Their customer service is remarkable. Great folks. It took me all of 30 minutes to fabricate the link. I didn't trust the set screw set-up, so I welded the joints/unions instead except where it attaches to the rack and column.
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[Walther]

Since I don't have the tools necessary to do a slip roll or radius edge, I came up with what I thought was an original idea. (turns out others have done this before). I used 16ga trailer fenders as the basis for my inner rear fenders/tubs. It didn't take me long to get them to fit. I got lucky because the outer radius is almost an exact match to the openings I cut through the inner body structure. Once the body is welded permanently in place, I'll fab some panels to span between the inner tubs and the flares. This ended up working out really well.
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[Walther]

I mocked up the original gauge housing. It still fits and clears the the Wilwood reverse MC set-up and steering column. Eventually I'll ship the housing off to Dakota Digital to have them fit a custom gauge panel in it.
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[Walther]

I finished the main part of the floors and cleaned up the shifter boot area. I also began fabrication of the upper firewall, which is not yet attached to the lower section. The body can still be lifted off the chassis, but the day is approaching where it will all be permanently joined. First I want to replace the 58 year old headliner and prime and paint the cage and chassis. I've got a lot of grinding (spot welds) to do and have yet to apply any seam sealer. I figured these steps will be easier with the body off.

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[Walther]

I have been working, just not keeping the blog updated. I separated the chassis from the body for what i hope to be the final time. The reason to install the new headliner and paint the cage/interior sheet metal.
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[Walther]

I began fabricating all the panels for the engine compartment. It's now mostly done.

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[Walther]

I purchased an RCI 17 gallon fuel cell, fabricated a mount/cage for it, and welded it in place. I'll eventually switch out the filler neck for an angled one which will connect to a Shelby-style flip cap on top of the drivers side quarter panel.

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[Walther]

a few pics of some random sheet metal fabrication. I'm becoming really comfortable with the bead-roller now that I'm almost done. It's nice to step back, look at something you've done, and impress yourself. LOL

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[Walther]

The "Dustless Blasting" left a bit more texture than I wanted, so a DA with 80 grit made quick work of it.

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[Walther]

next, Prime everything!

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[Walther]

I modified the dash to accept a double-DIN radio with navigation. Then I painted it with Hot Rod Flatz "Warm Metallic Grey"

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[Walther]

I used the same paint on the cage. with black carpet, seats, and door panels I thought the grey would "pop". I was originally going to paint it all black.

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[jovibuilt]

Any updates?

[InRogue]

Following, very cool...can't wait to hear it run

[Boosted Falcon]

Great progress.

[David Sloan]

Very nice!
I love it!

[vdubn]

Looks like its been a bit over a year since this has been updated.... any finished pics?

[Z06killinSBF]

Looks like its been a bit over a year since this has been updated.... any finished pics?

He posts on Instagram, username: Widebodyfalcon.

[andrewb70]

He posts on Instagram, username: Widebodyfalcon.

Following...I'm Projectgattago