Circuit breaker for trunk-mounted battery?

[jlwdvm]

I have my Optima battery mounted in the trunk of my 69 Firebird LS3 track/street car with the battery cable running up the center of the inside of the car to a master on/off switch mounted in the dash, then to a firewall pass-through terminal, and then on to the starter. I have a on/off positive terminal end mounted to the battery. I just saw in another build thread that a guy used a 200amp manual breaker mounted about 18" from the battery. It seems like this would be a good way to protect against any shorts in my long battery cable. Thoughts from the electrical gurus?

[Richard454]

I've seen circuit breakers welded closed after a dead short....

I prefer these if you want to fuse the battery cable-

Link-http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/1024/category/192


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/070303_med-1.jpg

[jlwdvm]

What amperage fuse should a guy get? I will have to look for an American source.

[72BBSwinger]

I use a 200 amp Marine circuit breaker between battery and alternator.

[Richard454]

What amperage fuse should a guy get? I will have to look for an American source.

I'd go with a 200A.
I've bought a bunch of stuff from them- really quality stuff. NOT made in China. Shipping isn't bad-not to mention the current conversion rate to the pound makes buying things from them a super deal. Plus I haven't found any that are made in the USA

[Kenova]

I have a 150 amp breaker between the alt. and trunk mounted battery. The starter cable is live only when I crank the engine over.

Ken

[Richard454]

I have a 150 amp breaker between the alt. and trunk mounted battery. The starter cable is live only when I crank the engine over.

Ken

You want the circuit breaker as close to the battery as possible. If the alternator shorts out you'll see a puff of smoke and it stops producing power. Now if the battery shorts out-you'll see smoke- then the wire will glow red and more than likely start a fire.

Think of the gas tank full of gas as a "battery"- and the carb as the "alternator." If you have a leak in the fuel line- where would you want your shut off- The Carb or the tank?

Richard

[Kenova]

You want the circuit breaker as close to the battery as possible.

Richard

Oh yeah, it's right there next to the battery.:twothumbs

Ken

[65 drop top]

I think it's best to use a solenoid next to the battery, if your concerned about a short. When wired correctly it's hot only during cranking. Then run a circuit breaker or fusible link on the alternater wire that goes to the battery. I can try to elaborate more if this is something you're interested in. Here is a diagram of the set up.

[jlwdvm]

I ended up ordering the fused clamp from the UK. My AAW wiring harness has fusible links between the starter and ignition & alternator already. Basically, the Ford solenoid acts as a circuit breaker in this instance?

[Richard454]

Well- not really.... Say the wire from the solenoid gets shorted-and you try and start the car -ALL 800+A from the battery go to the short when you turn the key...and hopefully when you let go of the key after seeing smoke- the remote solenoid doesn't weld closed- as you run to the back of your car to hit the kill switch or disconnect the battery or get a fire extinguisher...

I think a solenoid near the starter- away from heat-is a good idea...TO me- it just doesn't make sense to put it in the trunk- because you'll have the possibility of unprotected power running the length of the car anyway- unless you fuse the battery.

BTW- the company in the UK has some really neat stuff AND it's not made in China

Richard

My favorite is the combo fuse /relay holder- totally configurable- and modular

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/07/relaysocket_zps828e9009-1.jpg

[65 drop top]

Basically what the solenoid does is allows the main battery cable to be completely disconnected, except during cranking. The alternator charge wire can then use a fuse or circuit breaker. It really isolates the battery and protects the car. Especially if you get in an accident, the battery would basically be "disconnected".

[65 drop top]

Here is a sticky thread on the topic

https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/82465-1st-Gen-Camaro-Battery-Relocation

And another

https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/87672-Is-a-remote-mounted-solenoid-needed-with-a-trunk-mounted-battery

Or just do a a search on the topic. I'm sure there are a bunch of threads. It is pretty much accepted that it's the safest way to relocate a battery in the trunk. I am no electrical guru or engineer, but from my research it seems like the way to go.

[ilikeike]

Basically what the solenoid does is allows the main battery cable to be completely disconnected, except during cranking. The alternator charge wire can then use a fuse or circuit breaker. It really isolates the battery and protects the car. Especially if you get in an accident, the battery would basically be "disconnected".

That's how I wired mine also.
Similar to this,accept my alternator is wired a little diferent.

129173

[Richard454]

Basically what the solenoid does is allows the main battery cable to be completely disconnected, except during cranking. The alternator charge wire can then use a fuse or circuit breaker. It really isolates the battery and protects the car. Especially if you get in an accident, the battery would basically be "disconnected".

That is true...but it's sort of redundant w/ a solenoid AND fuse/circuit breaker.

You just run one LARGE wire to the starter- then use that (starter terminal) as your junction block to the alt and other power hungry accessories. Or a marine terminal block works well-see below..

If you're in an accident w/ a fuse at the battery- it is STILL protected weather or not the wire is "hot" all the time.

Look at your house--make sense to turn OFF the circuit breaker- for a light switch and a light? Yes -the light switch is "hot" all the time but it's still protected by the breakerpanel...


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/07/DSCN4974_zpsff04c9b6-1.jpg

Here's my set -up

twin 6V batteries to save space -

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/07/15171387463_a346424a58_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/p7DjVV)DSCN4917 (https://flic.kr/p/p7DjVV) by Richard Hayes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/123721740@N04/), on Flickr

1/0 gauge running to the starter-

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/07/16069920023_e433178820_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qu3xmB)DSCN5052 (https://flic.kr/p/qu3xmB) by Richard Hayes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/123721740@N04/), on Flickr

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/07/16778115177_6c3206ee58_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ryCe6T)DSCN5081 (https://flic.kr/p/ryCe6T) by Richard Hayes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/123721740@N04/), on Flickr

Power post to run all the stuff up front- fans/horns/headlights/electric headlights-

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/07/17258495066_78a46e66a2_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/si5iiL)DSCN5170 (https://flic.kr/p/si5iiL) by Richard Hayes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/123721740@N04/), on Flickr

The fuse/relays to protect the devises-

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/07/16621132373_8586574c79_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rjKDzP)DSCN5160 (https://flic.kr/p/rjKDzP) by Richard Hayes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/123721740@N04/), on Flickr

headlights & headlight motor protection

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/07/16887623237_5178448da0_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rJiu2T)DSCN5113 (https://flic.kr/p/rJiu2T) by Richard Hayes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/123721740@N04/), on Flickr

fuse panel for ECU/Starter/injectors/coils etc.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/07/15875688784_fb45447364_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qbT4b9)DSCN5030 (https://flic.kr/p/qbT4b9) by Richard Hayes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/123721740@N04/), on Flickr

alternator-

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/07/DSCN5633_zpseuhpgsnr-1.jpg

[jlwdvm]

My car is already wired with a AAW Power Plus 20 kit (at the time they didn't make a specific kit for 69 Firebirds). I would have to rewire/run new wires to use a trunk-mounted solenoid, so I went with the battery post fuse. I have a master kill switch mounted in the center of the dash, and the ignition and alternator wires came with fusible links already installed by AAW.

[TheJDMan]

I'm running a pair of 200 amp circuit breakers in parallel mounted in the trunk about 12" from my battery. You can buy a complete circuit breaker kit like this.

https://www.ceautoelectricsupply.com/circuitbreakers.html

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Or you can buy the individual circuit breakers here.

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-200-Amp-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B008NRNPS6/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1468644548&sr=1-6&keywords=200+amp+circuit+breaker

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[j.d.roost]

I know this is an older thread but it looked to be the latest on the topic.
I have currently been going back and forth on trunk mounted routing this week enough to make my head spin.
I have a Falcon (64) with a 5.0 efi and spliced in harness from a fox body. Running the 0 gauge was difficult enough (still not happy with how I have it). Running the solenoid in the trunk with the extra wires needed was not only going to be a task....but because of the stock pickup points of the fox harness..it would be a mess under the hood.
Other concerns are if a 8 gauge wire would be enough to run all lights,wipers,fans ect.
Obviously I am concerned with a fire from the constant hot 0 gauge inside the car and had not thought of a breaker.

Any issues with running a single 200 amp unit?
Also can I run a 300 amp anl fuse in line with a breaker for added protection?

Thanks for any advice and the info provided.

[blitzer454]

I really don't see the benefit of mounting a large circuit breaker in the trunk. The circuit breaker needs to pass a high enough current so that the starter can function, and a starter can draw as much as 800A initially. I copied this from one of the web pages linked above:

Need a Circuit Breaker designed to protect a super high current accessory? Or maybe, you’d like to protect a length of cable that runs through your vehicle. Either way, these breakers fit the bill! These breakers will pass 200% of their rating for 5 seconds, 150% of their rating for 10 seconds, and 100% of their rating for over 30 seconds. They include a valet type push-button that allows you to manually open them for safety or security.

The kit they are advertising uses 2 circuit breakers in parallel, effectively doubling the current that can run in the starter wire cable. So for 5 seconds the current allowed can be as high as 800A and for 30 seconds or more the current can be as high as 400A before the breaker will open. Just think how much damage 400A can do in 10 seconds much less 30 seconds or more.

I understand that having to re-route the starter wire from the engine bay to the trunk can be messy but if your doing this for safety I would still deal with the mess and mount the starter solenoid in the trunk.

As far as running the lights and other accessories you need to remember that after the engine starts the main source of power comes from the alternator, not the battery. The 8 gauge cable is mainly for charging the battery and not running the accessories.

[j.d.roost]

Ok.
I appreciate the advice.
Funny..I have been beating myself up
over this for a few weeks now...
Somthing that seems so simple after I have gotten so many difficult roadblocks with the project handled has not only brought me to a halt..it has me questioning other things on the car.
Drilled a large hole in the firewall tonight for a bulkhead pass through for the + that is not going to work (and now I will need to weld it back shut)
I have hit the "I don't think it will ever be done" zone...

[blitzer454]

Don't feel bad, I too drilled a hole in my firewall and had to weld it shut later. Sometimes it just helps to walk away from the project for a day or two, just don't give up. You will get there!

[j.d.roost]

Don't feel bad, I too drilled a hole in my firewall and had to weld it shut later. Sometimes it just helps to walk away from the project for a day or two, just don't give up. You will get there!

Thanks bud.
Solid advice...I guess iracing will get a workout this weekend.

[gator68428]

This is a good thread and has definitely made me think about the safety of my trunk mounted battery in my 68 Firebird.
Today, for reference I pulled apart the trunk liner and back seat of my 2009 Pontiac G8 GXP. It has a trunk mounted battery from the factory.
The live fat battery positive runs all the way through the cabin to the engine compartment.
No remote solenoid or circuit breaker. Adds convenience when jump starting another/the car.
They do take extra care in packaging the wire. So, to each his own and the G8 is a good example of safe trunk mounted battery with great attention paid to wire routing and insulation.

I will not be remote mounting my starter solenoid, nor adding a circuit breaker, in my '68, but I will double check the routing and add more protection to the wire to be extra safe. And i do have a hole in my firewall with the positive prong feeding through as jumper/charger connection point. Done properly its plenty safe.

G8 GXP battery/wire pics (there are fuses on the auxiliary (smaller) wire connections to the battery)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/20170504_133403_zpskjsvtwwe-1.jpg (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/mitch_mac1/media/20170504_133403_zpskjsvtwwe.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/20170504_133416_zpsxaybpnxj-1.jpg (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/mitch_mac1/media/20170504_133416_zpsxaybpnxj.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/20170504_133434_zpsftp3iwi1-1.jpg (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/mitch_mac1/media/20170504_133434_zpsftp3iwi1.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/20170504_133315_zpsi7eksgcq-1.jpg (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/mitch_mac1/media/20170504_133315_zpsi7eksgcq.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/20170504_133143_zpslm55bo1h-1.jpg (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/mitch_mac1/media/20170504_133143_zpslm55bo1h.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/20170504_134147_zpse2fmbgv5-1.jpg (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/mitch_mac1/media/20170504_134147_zpse2fmbgv5.jpg.html)

Trunk mounted battery in my 68 Firebird. I dropped it down ~5" to lower the center of mass as far as possible. Makes use of the dead space behind rear wheel-below trunk floor-just inside rear quarter panel.
Added a security kill switch to the negative, but also put a fused, quick disconnect, 16 gauge wire in parallel to ground so my radio and car computer don't lose all power when kill switch is engaged (to open circuit) so I don't lose my radio stations and computer learning. If starter is turned it will instantly blow the fuse, which I've done a time or two already :hand: :hah:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/20170504_135522_zps3ujeyibr-1.jpg (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/mitch_mac1/media/20170504_135522_zps3ujeyibr.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/20170305_150630_zps1bvi4lya-1.jpg (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/mitch_mac1/media/20170305_150630_zps1bvi4lya.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/20170305_154822_zpsqj6sjoit-1.jpg (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/mitch_mac1/media/20170305_154822_zpsqj6sjoit.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/20170305_175902_zpsto8r1zss-1.jpg (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/mitch_mac1/media/20170305_175902_zpsto8r1zss.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/20170305_180100_zpsgs4lxkrc-1.jpg (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/mitch_mac1/media/20170305_180100_zpsgs4lxkrc.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/20170305_194449_zpshqlqh4cn-1.jpg (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/mitch_mac1/media/20170305_194449_zpshqlqh4cn.jpg.html)

[blitzer454]

Well at least now you know your fuse was good. :) You might consider replacing it with a small circuit breaker next time. I like your battery box, that battery is not going anywhere.

[j.d.roost]

Thanks for posting those pics.
Very interesting to see that oem has no fused protection .
Looks like every point where the wire mates to metal has been covered.
Did some digging today and apperently the fox harness needs direct power to the battery on its own fused (separate from the "charge" cable ) line. Found a diagram pretty much evey 5.0 guy uses for rear solenoid mount. Starter,charge,ignition,power distribution center.
Definitely have some thinking to do this week.

[Richard454]

Nice job -Mitch!!! I've made the comment many a time about how the factory does it- but to deaf ears...

The reasoning for the easy jump terminals - and not use the battery terminals are twofold. First it's easier-Second it gets the power where it's needed, to the starter and keeps from surging the electronics which is possible if you use the battery.


Thanks for posting those pics.
Very interesting to see that oem has no fused protection .
Looks like every point where the wire mates to metal has been covered.


Here's my parts car - window sticker of $98K and they don't use protection either-and not trying to save money!! BMW 750IL...and I'm sure that several engineers though it was the best way-

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/DSCN3851_zps598c7068-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/DSCN3847_zps7e72582f-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/DSCN3848_zps5342ce75-1.jpg

Wire that is used to 'jump' the car-off the BMW-

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/17111227247_84c7f6bc45_b-1.jpg

Used it in my build to simplify jump starting and save the electronics from spikes

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/17292712946_2656dea39c_b-1.jpg

[j.d.roost]

So in that big hole I mistakenly made I "think" I got something to work.
Not 100% thrilled about having a stud in the car over a pass through insulated wire...but it looks like I may have just enough clearance.
Heater box bolts in that big hole (inside pic) and unfortunately will be in front of the stud/wire.
Starter sol. is about 6" away from exit point.
Its not all tied down yet bit its pretty much running up and over toe board.
I will add a rubber cover over the studs.

Anyone have experience with the Moroso style pass through connectors?
Worried about the plastic thread stripping or the nut working loose... I assume I could epoxy or panel bond over the threads if I felt it was necessary.


Also I plan on running 400 amps worth of breakers on the + (two 200s).
I know its probably not going to stop wire damage/fire if the **** hits the fan...but I figure its better than nothing.

[gator68428]

Well at least now you know your fuse was good. :) You might consider replacing it with a small circuit breaker next time. I like your battery box, that battery is not going anywhere.

Ah yes good idea! So maybe there is a good use for a circuit breaker after all.

[gator68428]

Good info Richard! Very true.

I did a similar thing J.d.

Still have to add cover over my stud as well on the inside connections.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/20170504_134314_zpsriuztqkz-1.jpg (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/mitch_mac1/media/20170504_134314_zpsriuztqkz.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/20170504_134400_zps4ucssfb8-1.jpg (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/mitch_mac1/media/20170504_134400_zps4ucssfb8.jpg.html)

[gator68428]

Anyone have experience with the Moroso style pass through connectors?
Worried about the plastic thread stripping or the nut working loose... I assume I could epoxy or panel bond over the threads if I felt it was necessary.


Mine may be a Moroso too but appears to be a slightly different style with a threaded end only on one side and just a jumper prong on the other. What I would recommend for yours is to flip it 180 so the nut is on the inside and the prettier side in the engine compartment, for aesthetics... But if it gets covered up in the end then i suppose it doesn't matter. If covered and not readily accessible from engine compartment then you still may want to look into adding an easy jumper contact point like Richard did. My version does both (pass-through and jumper contact) but it requires me to run starter wire through firewall as well (which i did, carefully with proper boot--lower and more towards the tunnel).

[j.d.roost]

Can you guys recommend a good sheathing for the wire aside from the standard splitloom?
Looking at the techflex mesh stuff...but have no idea if its good for auto.

[Richard454]

Can you guys recommend a good sheathing for the wire aside from the standard splitloom?
Looking at the techflex mesh stuff...but have no idea if its good for auto.

I used several different "things" to 'hide' & protect my wires-

Painless has - Classic and power braid- Also I use a bunch of heat shrink

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/16778115177_6c3206ee58_b-1.jpg

Here's the wires to the Alternator- left over Russel AN Fuel line covers the small gauge wires

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/19417454790_412a3b54df_b-1.jpg
I had some extra 12AN hose laying around-

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/17033903727_9e1d654bf7_b-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/17215371996_ff5e1f6788_b-1.jpg

My fuel injector wiring is covered w/ 1/2 copper pipe - split and painted w/ textured paint-

Covered it w/ cloth braid first-

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/DSCN6503_zps9642lczc-1.jpg

Then copper pipe-ran it on a table saw- then cleaned it up with a file-

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/DSCN6507_zpsxpxmqmlr-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/DSCN6508_zps6immw9pl-1.jpg

Finished look-

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/DSCN6510_zpsavmk0gdr-1.jpg

[j.d.roost]

So a bud of mine is an electrician... He saw what I was trying to do and handed me 20 ft of 1/2 non conductive (rubber) flexible conduit.
It is obviously going to put a lump in the carpet..but it will be on the rocker and should not be too noticeable.
I feel like I will have no worries about it chafing or kinking now.

[Yukon Cornelius]

Probably just me, but I still would want a grommet where that wire is running through the metal.

[j.d.roost]

Probably just me, but I stil would want a grommet where that wire is running through the metal.

Yep.
Got one...it's just not installed.
Good looking out.

[jlwdvm]

Your battery is fused at the positive post. Those are fuses on each side. If they blow...no power coming out of the battery. My '13 boss is the same way. I was installing a PCV can in it a couple days before my first track day several years ago, and I accidentally hit the post with my wrench...a few sparks flew. I got back in the car to start it and I had no power to the starter, but some other electrical systems worked. Luckily I had enough time to get a new one shipped in.

This is a good thread and has definitely made me think about the safety of my trunk mounted battery in my 68 Firebird.
Today, for reference I pulled apart the trunk liner and back seat of my 2009 Pontiac G8 GXP. It has a trunk mounted battery from the factory.
The live fat battery positive runs all the way through the cabin to the engine compartment.
No remote solenoid or circuit breaker. Adds convenience when jump starting another/the car.
They do take extra care in packaging the wire. So, to each his own and the G8 is a good example of safe trunk mounted battery with great attention paid to wire routing and insulation.

I will not be remote mounting my starter solenoid, nor adding a circuit breaker, in my '68, but I will double check the routing and add more protection to the wire to be extra safe. And i do have a hole in my firewall with the positive prong feeding through as jumper/charger connection point. Done properly its plenty safe.

G8 GXP battery/wire pics (there are fuses on the auxiliary (smaller) wire connections to the battery)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/20170504_133403_zpskjsvtwwe-1.jpg (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/mitch_mac1/media/20170504_133403_zpskjsvtwwe.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/20170504_133416_zpsxaybpnxj-1.jpg (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/mitch_mac1/media/20170504_133416_zpsxaybpnxj.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/20170504_133434_zpsftp3iwi1-1.jpg (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/mitch_mac1/media/20170504_133434_zpsftp3iwi1.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/20170504_133315_zpsi7eksgcq-1.jpg (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/mitch_mac1/media/20170504_133315_zpsi7eksgcq.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/20170504_133143_zpslm55bo1h-1.jpg (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/mitch_mac1/media/20170504_133143_zpslm55bo1h.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/20170504_134147_zpse2fmbgv5-1.jpg (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/mitch_mac1/media/20170504_134147_zpse2fmbgv5.jpg.html)

Trunk mounted battery in my 68 Firebird. I dropped it down ~5" to lower the center of mass as far as possible. Makes use of the dead space behind rear wheel-below trunk floor-just inside rear quarter panel.
Added a security kill switch to the negative, but also put a fused, quick disconnect, 16 gauge wire in parallel to ground so my radio and car computer don't lose all power when kill switch is engaged (to open circuit) so I don't lose my radio stations and computer learning. If starter is turned it will instantly blow the fuse, which I've done a time or two already :hand: :hah:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/20170504_135522_zps3ujeyibr-1.jpg (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/mitch_mac1/media/20170504_135522_zps3ujeyibr.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/20170305_150630_zps1bvi4lya-1.jpg (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/mitch_mac1/media/20170305_150630_zps1bvi4lya.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/20170305_154822_zpsqj6sjoit-1.jpg (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/mitch_mac1/media/20170305_154822_zpsqj6sjoit.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/20170305_175902_zpsto8r1zss-1.jpg (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/mitch_mac1/media/20170305_175902_zpsto8r1zss.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/20170305_180100_zpsgs4lxkrc-1.jpg (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/mitch_mac1/media/20170305_180100_zpsgs4lxkrc.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/20170305_194449_zpshqlqh4cn-1.jpg (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/mitch_mac1/media/20170305_194449_zpshqlqh4cn.jpg.html)

[gator68428]

Your battery is fused at the positive post. Those are fuses on each side. If they blow...no power coming out of the battery. My '13 boss is the same way. I was installing a PCV can in it a couple days before my first track day several years ago, and I accidentally hit the post with my wrench...a few sparks flew. I got back in the car to start it and I had no power to the starter, but some other electrical systems worked. Luckily I had enough time to get a new one shipped in.

Right, those are fuses for the small wires connected at the battery. The fat wire is not fused AFAIK--I don't even know what a fuse capable of carrying 500 amps would looks like--if they exist on factory cars I'd be interested in seeing one. If one of those fuses blow the car will not run because the ECU loses power etc. But the fat battery wire remains live all the way to the engine compartment.

[badazz81z28]

Right, those are fuses for the small wires connected at the battery. The fat wire is not fused AFAIK--I don't even know what a fuse capable of carrying 500 amps would looks like--if they exist on factory cars I'd be interested in seeing one. If one of those fuses blow the car will not run because the ECU loses power etc. But the fat battery wire remains live all the way to the engine compartment.


Is that not the main cable on the right side of the fused block??? I have researched those blocks and a lot of them are rated at 175-250 amps

[73ta]

I have a buss fuse rated at 250 amps in the pos cable with a cutoff switch by the battery and have never had it blow starting my 462ci engine. Also run a ton of aftermarket electronics, no issues. Fuse is available at most auto parts stores.

[Warthog5]

Heres a suggestion......STOP using bare copper battery terminals......They are super attractive to corrosion.

Use tinned copper ends.....This is marines grade stuff...Coat it with Diaelectric grease also. I see bare copper ends turned Green or Black from corrosion every day.