Josue
04-17-2016, 05:57 PM
Just got done with the disc brake swap on my '68. Parts are a C5 master cylinder/booster, Wilwood adjustable prop. valve, C5 fronts, and LS1 rears.
I've put about 30 miles on the setup so far, and no issues, other than the stiff pedal. The car had manual drum brakes all the way around originally, and it doesn't make very much vacuum (maybe around 11hg), so I was prepared for no improvement over pedal pressure. I would have hated myself if I didn't at least try to go with a power setup though, and between re-tuning the car for the new torque converter I installed, and vacuum pumps/canisters if that still didn't work, I was and still am confident that I can get more hg out of the car and get a better feel to the pedal.
Drove the car home from work earlier though, and again, no issues. Then, I changed real quick, and got back in the car to head to my parent's house. It was then that I noticed the brake pedal was stiffer than usual, by a TON! Almost like something was inside the booster, blocking the rod from traveling with the push of the pedal. I also noticed the brakes were dragging....it seemed to worsen the 4 miles to their house, and at it's worse, the car would come to a pretty quick stop on its own when I let off the gas. Parked it at their house, did some stuff, came back to move it into the barn 30 mins later, and it was fine again? Like nothing happened?
Any ideas? The brakes bled out seemingly ok on the 4 corners. I don't believe there's any binding/drag on the booster rod when I hooked it up to the pedal, it can still be wiggled a bit. The only worry I had through all this, was I didn't bench bleed the master cylinder prior to install. Opinions were hit and miss on the topic, and I thought I might be fine since it was a used unit, and not brand new, so it already had fluid ran through it. Worse case, I disconnect the lines, and bleed it right on the car....if that's even what this issue could be.
I've put about 30 miles on the setup so far, and no issues, other than the stiff pedal. The car had manual drum brakes all the way around originally, and it doesn't make very much vacuum (maybe around 11hg), so I was prepared for no improvement over pedal pressure. I would have hated myself if I didn't at least try to go with a power setup though, and between re-tuning the car for the new torque converter I installed, and vacuum pumps/canisters if that still didn't work, I was and still am confident that I can get more hg out of the car and get a better feel to the pedal.
Drove the car home from work earlier though, and again, no issues. Then, I changed real quick, and got back in the car to head to my parent's house. It was then that I noticed the brake pedal was stiffer than usual, by a TON! Almost like something was inside the booster, blocking the rod from traveling with the push of the pedal. I also noticed the brakes were dragging....it seemed to worsen the 4 miles to their house, and at it's worse, the car would come to a pretty quick stop on its own when I let off the gas. Parked it at their house, did some stuff, came back to move it into the barn 30 mins later, and it was fine again? Like nothing happened?
Any ideas? The brakes bled out seemingly ok on the 4 corners. I don't believe there's any binding/drag on the booster rod when I hooked it up to the pedal, it can still be wiggled a bit. The only worry I had through all this, was I didn't bench bleed the master cylinder prior to install. Opinions were hit and miss on the topic, and I thought I might be fine since it was a used unit, and not brand new, so it already had fluid ran through it. Worse case, I disconnect the lines, and bleed it right on the car....if that's even what this issue could be.