Caster/Camber Gauge Recommendations

[alocker]

I am looking to do my own alignment since none of the shops around me know what a strut rod is or how it's used to adjust caster.

I have read a bunch of stuff on this but it's all at least a few years old and I want to see if there might be anything new that I am missing. I run a Baer brake setup with aluminum wheels so I figure a magnetic tool like below will work if I stick it right to the rotor. Any other suggestions on tools would be appreciated. I am trying to keep the price close to what an alignment costs so I am not really looking at the higher priced stuff. The one below is $116.00

http://www.amazon.com/Longacre-Magnetic-Caster-camber-Gauge/dp/B003750D7U

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/613NT8XUGbL_SL1000_-1.jpg

I assume I have enough room to use this on my wheel/brake setup?

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/WMSBwhJESoCAIdYy36FeIk2jtllcCrGHBk752NrP-1.jpg

[TheJDMan]

A better option would be QuickTrick alignment tools.

https://www.quicktrickalignment.com/


https://youtu.be/rTJaicg6zho

[GEARBOXGARAGE]

^^^ What Steve said. QuickTrick is a quality piece and a good investment. They have different levels of kits depending on how involved you want to be.

[cpd004]

I'm interested in this as well. Near me, there aren't any decent alignment shops. Whenever they see the need to deal with shims, they scratch their heads and don't want to deal with custom alignment settings. I just wonder if it is possible to get an extremely accurate alignment at home using the method above? It seems as though on a low car, it'd be difficult to adjust (for example, tie rods) while resting on it's wheels at full weight.

[alocker]

I'm interested in this as well. Near me, there aren't any decent alignment shops. Whenever they see the need to deal with shims, they scratch their heads and don't want to deal with custom alignment settings. I just wonder if it is possible to get an extremely accurate alignment at home using the method above? It seems as though on a low car, it'd be difficult to adjust (for example, tie rods) while resting on it's wheels at full weight.

I do have concern with my lowered car. The tie rods are at the rear and the camber adjustment is a cam bolt in the lower control arm mount on the frame. I was going to have to set the car up on my wood block which makes slider plates more of an issue. The above kits do look nice but are a bit out of my price range.

The good news is I believe I found a shop in the Chicago area that can do the job. I found out about Black Dog Speed Shop in Lincolnshire through a Vette site and gave them a call. They are a road race shop and have different levels of alignment. You can do a basic front caster/camber/toe to a full front/rear scale chassis setup. Plus they have a 65 Impala shop car which is the same front suspension as mine. They laughed when I told them about my experience with regular alignment shops so they are fully aware of what I'm looking for. I just need to get in, they are booked solid through May.

[BMR Sales]

I do have concern with my lowered car. The tie rods are at the rear and the camber adjustment is a cam bolt in the lower control arm mount on the frame. I was going to have to set the car up on my wood block which makes slider plates more of an issue. The above kits do look nice but are a bit out of my price range.

The good news is I believe I found a shop in the Chicago area that can do the job. I found out about Black Dog Speed Shop in Lincolnshire through a Vette site and gave them a call. They are a road race shop and have different levels of alignment. You can do a basic front caster/camber/toe to a full front/rear scale chassis setup. Plus they have a 65 Impala shop car which is the same front suspension as mine. They laughed when I told them about my experience with regular alignment shops so they are fully aware of what I'm looking for. I just need to get in, they are booked solid through May.

Black Dog is a Quality Shop. They have many Wins & Championships in Pirelli World Challenge

[cpd004]

Never heard of them before. Looking forward to hearing about your experience with them.

[TheJDMan]

If you are looking for cheap, buy some string, a pair of toe plates, a digital level sold at any big box store and a couple of matched tape measures, then view this youtube video. BTW, there are hundreds of videos on how to align a car, this is just one. Do a search on youtube for "DIY wheel alignment"


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pVForVF4gGA

I personally use a pair of toe plates and they work very well in addition to the quicktrick gauge.

[SSLance]

I use a Joes Racing gauge much like the Longacre one above to do my alignments, only I got the adapter that screws onto my spindle. I have to take the nut off, remove the washer, then put the nut back on to leave enough threads for the adapter to spin onto, but this assures a good reading of the spindle.

[alocker]

The weather cooperated and I was able to get into Black Dog. Very pleased with the level of service and knowledge. It was not as cheap as a regular alignment but I feel that they did what they said they did and the car steers and handles beautifully. I found the numbers the last shop set it up at were a complete lie. I was told it was set at 3.5 degrees caster, it was at 1 degree and I could tell from the first drive. I could have purchased the tools but I would have also wasted a day messing with it and still not 100% sure it was were it should be. I would recommend anyone in the Chicagoland or southern WI area to go to Black Dog. Very nice shop with a nice mix of old and new vehicles.

[Skip Fix]

Quick trick- I have one -the attachment to the wheels is sometimes difficult depending on the edge of the wheel. When doing the camber sweep at least when I have done it double garbage bags "wheel plates", the tire does not stay the same vertical and if the gauge is attached firmly to the wheel you get some angular inconsistency which affects the reading.

[GEARBOXGARAGE]

Quick trick- I have one -the attachment to the wheels is sometimes difficult depending on the edge of the wheel. When doing the camber sweep at least when I have done it double garbage bags "wheel plates", the tire does not stay the same vertical and if the gauge is attached firmly to the wheel you get some angular inconsistency which affects the reading.

The double garbage bag idea is pretty ingenious! I would have never thought of that, I'll have to try it.

[Handy Man]

+1 for the doubled up garbage bags. That works well.

Having a level surface is also crucial. I used clear plastic tubing filled with water as a giant level, and shimmed up the low corners with plywood and vinyl floor tiles.

For caster, accurate wheel turning angle measurements are also important. I printed out large protractors on paper, and placed them below the front wheels (on top of the garbage bags) to measure the turn angle.

I tried the string method before buying toe plates... and will never do it again. Strings are a pain in the ass. Toe plates are worth their weight in gold.

I use a digital level from Home Depot to measure caster and camber, and have been able to get very accurate and repeatable results by being anal about everything else, but it does require a bit of math to calculate the caster.

Using that method + being patient and taking my time I was able to get a perfect alignment exactly to the specs I wanted. The car handles MUCH better than before, and tracks perfectly straight down the road. It's better than any alignment I've ever got on a commercial alignment rack.

Reaching the adjusters can be tricky. If its a problem on your car you might want to make some wheel stands out of 2x4's or something similar to get the car up in the air. Just make sure you settle the suspension after jacking it up to get it on the stands and be careful that it doesn't slide off of them since the garbage bags will make the front end slippery.

[David Pozzi]

I like a good bubble gauge. I have the Longacre version with great magnets! You want a gauge that can read up to 12 deg positive caster. With an open spoke aluminum wheel, you can just stick the gauge on the rotor, IF it has a good enough flat area without ridges. The bubble gauge has flats on the end to help you get 20 deg turn angle each way. You can also stick the gauge to a piece of steel & just hold it against the rim. I have Machined steel inserts that bolt into the centers of Mary's wheels. There are threaded adapters to make the gauge a screw-on, but wheels are often too deep a center to reach them & now we have C6 type front bearings, so no threads.

I like a gauge that goes to 5 or 6 deg camber and 12 deg positive caster. I don't like digital camber gauges because they always seem to go dead when I need them to work. They also have to be zeroed to work properly. Any gauge should be checked for zero by placing a level vertical in a vise, place the camber gauge against one side, then the other and the true zero is half the difference.

Freeing up the wheel friction is key to getting a good alignment, the second is getting the wheels turned left and right exactly 20 degrees or caster readings will not be accurate. A set of turntables makes it a lot easier. Or if gauging off the angled end of the magnetic tool, place a ruler on the floor below the end of the gauge that is parallel to the centerline of the car.

[Chris_67SS]

I have a vintage drive over toe gauge that I found in the attic of an old gas station in the 70's, been using that since then with no issues. As far as camber/caster, I use a home depot digital level taped to a section of aluminum box that fits on the wheel bead area and bungee that to the wheel. For wheel plates I use two 2' X 2' X 1/4 nylon squares, a degree wheel and a sharpie. Very repeatable. Adjusting the camber on my 67 Impala is a pain, I take a reading then put it up on stands, take another reading then adjust +or-, usually get right the first time. For rear track I use the string method. I assume my garage is level because I get the same readings whether the car is front or rear in first.....works for me...

[pist0lpete]

I have had great results with the SPC Fastraxx gauge and a set of toe plates. Combine that with SPC upper control arms and hex turnbuckles for the tie rods and the alignment is a breeze.