Need Some Input Coilovers on A Budget

[smb65]

Hi guys, i did a quick search and came up empty so i apologize if this has already been covered, Ive got a 1965 chevelle and im looking for a set of front coil overs. Im on a collage student budget and mainly want them to kill two birds with one stone (handling and ride height ). I found a set of economy QA1 coilovers for 370ish but they only make them for the 2nd gen a bodys from what i can tell. Again any input or advice would be great.

[csouth]

I would save my money and buy once. QA1's have their inherent seal issue's. I would look at something like the Vi-king for maybe $130 more. I know you're one a college budget, but it will hurt even more if you have an issue and can't get the shock repaired or have to replace at your own expense. THere are vendors here that can offer you forum pricing.

[camrat68]

If I were in your position, Vi-King would be my choice.
As far as doing it once, I've done it once a million times. The day after you pop for that top-of-the-line ultimate part, a better version will be released. :D

Jim

[RobNoLimit]

Before I make a recommendation, I need to toss out this disclaimer. ** I have worked with Ridetech on shock development, and, I am one of their biggest WD's for shocks. I also sell and use Viking on some projects where they are best suited. Both are quality products. ** OK, Don't do it. IMHO, the whole 'bolt-in coil-over concept is cute, and OK for a show car, but if you plan to drive the car, don't sacrifice the suspension travel. You may be better off with a good quality coil spring, like Eibach, with say a 2" drop, and then use a great pair of shocks in the OE mounts, such as RideTech or Viking. If it were my personal car, I would get the drop with a 'tall' dropped spindle, and use stock height Eiback springs and an adjustable shock. My plan is based on two main concerns, keep as much travel available as I can, and keep the suspension components (and the respective geometry) in an arrangement that helps to keep the roll center at a reasonable height and limit roll center migration during suspension travel.

[smb65]

Thanks for all the input guys, i will definitly stay away from QA1 in this case. Rob, i would love to go that way but at this point in time I still have stock drum brakes on all 4 corners and dont have the money or wheels to swap right now to disc(14in stocks). do they make a tall spindle that will work with drum and or disc brakes that I would be able to get for the time being. I want to upgrade my wheels now as well to us mags but after that my budget will be pretty tight. thank you all again for your input and help.

[CampbellshotrodsAZ]

How far off is the stance right now? Just bolting on coilovers won't improve your handling. You need the entire package, and a package that it designed together. I wouldn't get coilovers now, and then find out that they won't work with say, a Ridetech, DSE, or Speedtech setup you may decide to get later. Handling on a 1st gen A-body will most greatly be improved with control arms, and spindles, not a cheap date at all.

I was a college student not too long ago, and can sympathize with wanting to build a cool car on a slim budget. But I've also learned patience is important with these builds, because what you think you really want today, might be incompatible with your future plans.

What I would do instead, buy some BMR, UMI, Eibach or any lowered coil spring to get the attitude you want... they're relatively cheap at under $150 a pair typically. The car will look a lot better and handle a lot better, or about the same as bolting on a set of coilovers (minus adjustability)... you aren't going to change handling until you change that horrible camber curve, and basic spindle geometry. Or alternatively, if you're mainly after the cosmetics, and you only need to drop 1-2 inches, cut a partial coil off. Yes, some people might hate me for saying that, or cringe, but if ride height (springs) is only thing you are able to change right now, just go the cheap route to bring the nose down. Get some good gas shocks, and you'll be perfectly fine driving it till you can afford the rest. It'll be the best bang for your buck at this point. That's how people lowered their cars back in the day, and yes there are better ways now, but it worked then, it would work now. Just don't use a torch, or get too carried away. Depending on the desired height, maybe start with like 1/2 a coil.

[BMR Sales]

ViKings are Great Coilovers and they are All Double Adjustable (Compression and Rebound). Of course you can also adjust ride height!

[Nicks67GTO]

Before I make a recommendation, I need to toss out this disclaimer. ** I have worked with Ridetech on shock development, and, I am one of their biggest WD's for shocks. I also sell and use Viking on some projects where they are best suited. Both are quality products. ** OK, Don't do it. IMHO, the whole 'bolt-in coil-over concept is cute, and OK for a show car, but if you plan to drive the car, don't sacrifice the suspension travel. You may be better off with a good quality coil spring, like Eibach, with say a 2" drop, and then use a great pair of shocks in the OE mounts, such as RideTech or Viking. If it were my personal car, I would get the drop with a 'tall' dropped spindle, and use stock height Eiback springs and an adjustable shock. My plan is based on two main concerns, keep as much travel available as I can, and keep the suspension components (and the respective geometry) in an arrangement that helps to keep the roll center at a reasonable height and limit roll center migration during suspension travel.

This^^

If you use a stock type of lower A arm with a coilover you have 2 options. 1 is to use the UMI or Speedtech travel extension kits where you cut the top of the spring pocket out and extend the mounting point OR you lose a ton of suspension travel. You don't want to lose the suspension travel and im pretty sure you're not looking to cut your frame up and start welding yet since everything else is stock. In your case with the limited budget I would absolutely find a good set of coil springs and shocks like Rob suggested. I'm running the ridetech HQ's on my '67 GTO. The street ride is great and the handling was a huge improvement

[chpr1972]

If you read thru the forum in the old posts you can get the front spindles off a middle 70's full size
Chevrolet and with a special lower ball joint {I have a set some where] and different tie rod ends,wheel bearings and If my memory is correct 90's something lE1 11" rotors and single callipers from a 70's Camero and a corvette master cylinder and a proportioning valve from a 68-72 Chevelle and you have disc brakes on the front. It also requires a different upper control arm. I think that it evens give you the control arm to use. I use the upper control arm from race car supplier who is a lot cheaper than a Performance manufacture. If you cut the coil 1/2 coil at a time till you get the ride height you want. By cutting the factory coil it lowers the car and also stiffens up the ride. Do not get stupid and cut a coil and a half the first time. The front end on my car is so low that you can barely slide a 4by4 block under it. Looks cool but you have to be careful how you drive. I was leaving a restaurant and my header flange fell into a crack in the concrete and I had to jack it up to get it out!

[Rod]

Before I make a recommendation, I need to toss out this disclaimer. ** I have worked with Ridetech on shock development, and, I am one of their biggest WD's for shocks. I also sell and use Viking on some projects where they are best suited. Both are quality products. ** OK, Don't do it. IMHO, the whole 'bolt-in coil-over concept is cute, and OK for a show car, but if you plan to drive the car, don't sacrifice the suspension travel. You may be better off with a good quality coil spring, like Eibach, with say a 2" drop, and then use a great pair of shocks in the OE mounts, such as RideTech or Viking. If it were my personal car, I would get the drop with a 'tall' dropped spindle, and use stock height Eiback springs and an adjustable shock. My plan is based on two main concerns, keep as much travel available as I can, and keep the suspension components (and the respective geometry) in an arrangement that helps to keep the roll center at a reasonable height and limit roll center migration during suspension travel.


^^^^^ what ever he says,,,,and put on some cheap front disc brakes on...summit sells some for 360 bucks (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rsd-afxwk01c/overview/year/1964/make/chevrolet/model/chevelle) for the early chevelle

[smb65]

Thank you everyone for your help and input, after thinking it over im most likely going to cut the springs and get a good set of shock, this should help with the look and get rid of the nasty nose high rake that the car has currently and ill use my budget towards a set of wheels(us mag 107s) that way i can start driving my car again and in preparation of mods to come later, and dont worry I dont plan on cutting a ton off, ive done that and learned my lesson on a truck that is currently about 4in off the ground and a pain to drive anywhere that isnt pretty flat. All the info you guys have is awesome and really go me thinking about how to go about my car in the future.

[CampbellshotrodsAZ]

:twothumbs

Glad to hear you're excited, and good luck! I was on a shoestring college budget myself about 5 years ago, so I know the feeling. But wait it out, and you'll be building your ultimate car soon. I limited myself to cosmetics, and stuff that required more labor than cost at first, but now I'm finally able to build my ultimate pro-touring ride with all the good stuff. There will always be time once you're out of school!

[smb65]

Its hard watching all these builds and getting the itch to do something but I know in the end it will be well worth the wait and the money will be better spent later than having to do it twice because I skimped the first time. For now ill cut the spring, new shocks and a set of new wheels (probably us mag 107's in black ) and then its time to finally enjoy the car again and drive it as much as i can this summer. hopefully ill score a set of trans am tan seats to make my girlfriend happy(short guy and a bench seat make her a little uncomfortable with the dash). Thank you all again for your input and help, you guys kept me from flushing $500+ down the drain that can be put to good use elsewhere(brakes/spindles once i save up a bit) so thank you again. The amount of knowladge you all have is amazing and really brings a new dynamic to building a car correctly and for performance.

[ra11ysport]

Before I make a recommendation, I need to toss out this disclaimer. ** I have worked with Ridetech on shock development, and, I am one of their biggest WD's for shocks. I also sell and use Viking on some projects where they are best suited. Both are quality products. ** OK, Don't do it. IMHO, the whole 'bolt-in coil-over concept is cute, and OK for a show car, but if you plan to drive the car, don't sacrifice the suspension travel. You may be better off with a good quality coil spring, like Eibach, with say a 2" drop, and then use a great pair of shocks in the OE mounts, such as RideTech or Viking. If it were my personal car, I would get the drop with a 'tall' dropped spindle, and use stock height Eiback springs and an adjustable shock. My plan is based on two main concerns, keep as much travel available as I can, and keep the suspension components (and the respective geometry) in an arrangement that helps to keep the roll center at a reasonable height and limit roll center migration during suspension travel.

Thats exactly why i chose to run a coil and shock setup vs coilover get it set and forget about it!

[rustomatic]

This is awesome advice, but more importantly, people are listening. Just remember: what Rob said. It's hard to not want the shiny bolt-ons that you might convince yourself are worth all the money and will solve all of your handling issues, but there are always two sides to every great "package." For a guy like Rob (search the site for what he knows/does/sells) to steer you toward good (like Ridetech/Fox/Koni) standard shocks and coils, that says a ton. The dude knows making trucks handle. More importantly, he also knows engineering.

For a second bit of perspective, take it from a guy who recently sold a truckload of killer bolt-on goodies (tested severely) to use stock Corvette parts . . .

Save your money and research what works as much as you can stand. A decent girlfriend will always appreciate such an approach. Finish college, then maybe you can buy yourself one of Rob's chassis setups (or build your own).

[smb65]

Im deffinitly going to take your guys advice, i have one more newb question for you all,

is it possible to set my car up with tall drop spindles and front discs for around $650, i want to be able to drive the car in the city and the manual drum brakes on all 4 corners gets a bit hairy to say the least at times, any input would be great guys thank you again and i really appreciate all the help you guys have given me

[Decline]

I'm probably not helping and only adding to the confusion but,

http://www.classicperform.com/Store/1964_1972_Chevelle_Elcamino/7078SWBK-SC5.htm
This CPP kit is $649 and uses their C5 tall spindle which is cool because it opens you up to the world of aftermarket corvette brake kits one day when you have more $$$
Downside is its not a drop spindle, you will still need to get a master cylinder, and 17" wheels are a must

CPP also has a wilwood D52 kit with a drop spindle but its not tall..Maybe toss in a tall ball joint to fix the camber? I had the CPP D52 kit on my camaro with their 11" booster and rear drums and it stopped good. I had 15" rally wheels at the time
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVELLE-NOVA-CAMARO-DROP-SPINDLE-BLACK-WILWOOD-DISC-BRAKE-KIT-/262330633227?vxp=mtr

Heres a thread I found on the chevelle forum that discusses a few different options those guys are running
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/16-brakes-suspension-steering/826305-drop-spindles-vs-lowering-springs.html

[CampbellshotrodsAZ]

OP- the above would be something for you to research. CPP... Chinese Perfo... I mean Classic Performance Products is a pretty polarizing brand. An example of you get what you pay for.

[smb65]

thanks for the reply, as appealing as the cpp c5 kit seems and i could do with out the drop spindles for tall spindles if need be but i dont know if i would trust the c5 kit from them from what i have read..

As far as rim size is conderned i will be running 17in us mag 102 wheels up front so i should be ok to go with big breaks if possible

Thank you guys for the replies

CampbellshotrodsAZ's -- What would you possibly recommend for brakes on the front end?

[Nicks67GTO]

thanks for the reply, as appealing as the cpp c5 kit seems and i could do with out the drop spindles for tall spindles if need be but i dont know if i would trust the c5 kit from them from what i have read..

As far as rim size is conderned i will be running 17in us mag 102 wheels up front so i should be ok to go with big breaks if possible

Thank you guys for the replies

CampbellshotrodsAZ's -- What would you possibly recommend for brakes on the front end?

There's a fairly "inexpensive" way to do C6 front and 2002 Fbody rear brakes. Using the stock drum spindles, turning your drum hubs down under 6" in diameter, get some c6 brackets and braided lines from Tobin @ kore3. Find some used c6 calipers and abutments on ebay, rebuild them. Find an 02 Fbody rear brake setup in a junkyard, blast and rebuild those. Go to the stop tech website and select your rotors. You can get matching rotors this way. Buy those through summit. Go with a tuff stuff 9" dual diaphragm booster, an 02' right hand drive S10 master cylinder from amazon for 50 bucks, wilwood prop valve and bam...you pretty much have modern brakes that will haul the car down and fill out your wheels on the cheap. If you have questions, look over my build thread or feel free to pm me.

The other thing about this is later on, your stock spindles will work with other suspension kits. Lots of them add a tall ball joint top and bottom to their a arms to clean up the geometry. UMI and SC&C both come to mind. If you want to lower your car you can achieve that with aftermarket springs.

[khemy]

Before I make a recommendation, I need to toss out this disclaimer. ** I have worked with Ridetech on shock development, and, I am one of their biggest WD's for shocks. I also sell and use Viking on some projects where they are best suited. Both are quality products. ** OK, Don't do it. IMHO, the whole 'bolt-in coil-over concept is cute, and OK for a show car, but if you plan to drive the car, don't sacrifice the suspension travel. You may be better off with a good quality coil spring, like Eibach, with say a 2" drop, and then use a great pair of shocks in the OE mounts, such as RideTech or Viking. If it were my personal car, I would get the drop with a 'tall' dropped spindle, and use stock height Eiback springs and an adjustable shock. My plan is based on two main concerns, keep as much travel available as I can, and keep the suspension components (and the respective geometry) in an arrangement that helps to keep the roll center at a reasonable height and limit roll center migration during suspension travel.

Hi Rob , need similar advice on a C10 1964 restore that i am just about to start as my daily driver can you please PM me ?
Thanks