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View Full Version : Mobil 1 and oil pressure.



harshman
09-16-2004, 02:51 PM
I am running Mobil 1 in my car and noticed that when at idle, my oil pressure is around 15 psi. Is this normal? I did notice that the oil was much thinner than what I normally run.

rumblee
09-16-2004, 03:47 PM
should be fine as long as the oil pressure rises when the rpms go up. rule of thumb is 10lbs per 1000 rpm. that may not be true in all instances but is a safe number i feel.

harshman
09-16-2004, 03:58 PM
it goes to arround 65-75 psi right away. i just never ran m 1 before and wasn't sure what to think.

ProdigyCustoms
09-17-2004, 02:47 AM
The 5/30 and 10/30 are pretty thin for standand clearance motors. Especially if the motor has a bit of wear and mileage. I have found the -/30s to be to thin to run if clearances are a bit "loose".

gmachinz
09-17-2004, 03:48 AM
Mobil 1 10W-30 is no thinner than any other 10W-30 in terms of weight, it's just that on a molecular level, it is more uniform in shape instead of being all irregular which means it pours easier, and many people are sold on the idea that if it isn't maple syrup, it's not good oil. Film strength is the most important aspect to look at when it comes to oil. Mobil 1 (as well as most true synthetics-stay AWAY from Castrol Syntec though :squint: ) comes in at around 3000 psi while conventioanl (yes, including "race oil" 70W, 50W, etc.) offers only about 400 psi. Film strength is basically how resistant the oil is at being squeezed out from between two surfaces like your rod, main and cam bearings. The higher the film strength, the less likely it is to be "pushed out of the way" by tight clearances. This is why some may experience low oil pressure at idle in a motor with stock or slightly worn tolerances-it's not bad, it's just that you may see lower pressure readings than you're used to and if you have any ring wear, you will use oil a little bit more than normal. -jabin

Rick Dorion
09-17-2004, 03:55 AM
I too experienced that with 10W-30 which was fun when my 100 watt low-pressure light came on! I've since gone to Mobil1 15W-50 with fine results.

mdprovee
09-17-2004, 06:52 AM
My father has used M 1 for years on all his cars... got me started on it. We replaced a valve cover gasket on his commuter car, had 125,000 miles on it. Looked like a new engine inside, no gunk, crud, just clean inside. Sold me. He sold the truck at 175,000 and was still going. I experienced the same thing on my oil pressure in my camaro. Used 15/50.

Mike

ProdigyCustoms
09-17-2004, 07:24 AM
All 5 / 30 and 10 / 30 oils are thin. I use the 15 / 50 in my motors, no problems. My race motor is set up real loose, loose main and rods, and tons on side clearance which has a tendancy to dump pressure, and it does just fine with 15 / 50.
I see you are also in a hot climate like myself.

harshman
09-17-2004, 08:32 AM
I was sold on m 1 after I read this forum. I was using Lucas monkey gue because I thought that the more it resembled maple syrup, the better it was. I see now that isn't the case. What weight would your recommend for my car?

ProdigyCustoms
09-17-2004, 08:42 AM
15 / 50

gmachinz
09-18-2004, 08:22 AM
Check out this link- http://www.performanceoiltechnology.com and go to AutoIndustry'sBestKeptSecret.htm This will open everyone's eyes a bit. Of course, we all know Amsoil is the best, but I really like the comparisons between them and Mobil 1. After reading this article, I doubt anyone will run dinosaur oil again. I talk every now and then with Dave Mann who is a lubrication specialist/scientist with POT. -Jabin

MuscleRodz
09-21-2004, 06:35 PM
gmachinz,
why do you say stay away from Castrol Syntec. and do you mean pure synthetic or their blend. I have been running Syntec blend for years with very good results. I have two vehicles including my tow truck with over 200K miles and the lower ends are still going strong.

Mike

dennis68
09-21-2004, 06:43 PM
Because Castrol does not make a true synthetic oil even though they charge you for it. The way the "rules" are written, the oil does not have to be 100% synthetic be classified as such. The last time I checked, the only true synthetics being produced were Red Line, Amsoil, Mobil 1, and maybe Royal Purple.

gmachinz
09-21-2004, 07:17 PM
Castrol Syntec is classified as a Group III hydrocracked carbon base-which basically means a highly refined mineral based oil with a ton of synthetic additives. Mobil actually tried to sue Castrol but the gray areas of what is defined as being "synthetic" were too sticky. Remember the Castrol commercial where they would say, "Castrol Syntec outperforms conventional oil in laboratory tests...." yeah well you can bet they didn't compare Syntec to Mobil 1 or Amsoil, that's for sure! Now, Castrol inand of itslef is not a bad oil-surely not when compared to dinosaur oil BUT-they are NOT in the same league as Mobil 1, Amsoil, Royal Purple or Redline. Dave Mann at POT is a great guy to talk to. Email him with technical questions-he loves it! He sent me a ton of brochures on oil performance tests. He told me hands down Amsoil is THE best. But, for the price and quality, Mobil 1 can't be beat by any other brand of oil on the market save for Amsoil (even though Amsoil had to upgrade their "recipe" due to Mobil 1's SuperSyn technology) as the research from his and his colleagues test show. -Jabin

MuscleRodz
09-21-2004, 10:15 PM
I agree that if Syntec is not a true synthetic like the other oils dicussed in this thread are, then there is no comparison. As many miles as I drive, I can't really afford to put true synthetics in my daily drivers. The blends are a good compromise for my wallet and engines.

Mike

gmachinz
09-22-2004, 03:18 AM
MuscleRodz, what if I were to tell you that in the long run you would have spent the same amount of $$$ in sythetics as you would with blends at a given amount of mileage-difference being however that with synthetics, your motor would be in better condition overall in terms of compression, bearing life, etc? You can go longer in between oil change intervals and full synthetics offer much better extreme temperature protection-it takes a lot more heat to break down a full synthetic. So, if you can go-say, 6-8,000 miles in between oil changes, wouldn't it be worth it then? -Jabin

MuscleRodz
09-22-2004, 07:47 AM
Because of the number of highway miles I drive, I usually change oil every 4k-5k miles. Ocassionally 6k if I forget. I have a hard time leaving any oil in once it starts to look dirty knowing it is carrying contaminents whether its standard oil or synthetics. A lot of that I think depends on the quality of the filter as well. Standard oils do not stand up under my driving conditions I subject my vehicle to. Synthetic blends hold a lot better, and I am sure pure sythetic would be better. Don't disagree if I could run sythetic twice as long would be same or cheaper in the end.

Question regarding synthetic oils, and don't mean to highjack thread. I was told once that pure synthetic will carry water. Didn't believe it until I took apart a LT-1 I bought with 85K miles run on Mobil 1 and the oil was tan. This motor had not sat nor had a water leak when I took it apart. Any ideas?

Mike

harshman
09-22-2004, 08:17 AM
great stuff guys!!! man i love this board.

mike - here is some good readin' for ya on oil changes (http://www.performanceoiltechnology.com/threethousandmileoilchange.htm). you are right, oil filtration is a must.

gmachinz
09-22-2004, 08:26 AM
I have been running Mobil 1 for about six years now personally and have never seen it come out tan-colored, Mobil 1 will look black as hell even after only 1,000 miles or so but don't let that make you think it's contaminated. My guess is that maybe whoever owned that motor before may have switched form a conventional oil to a synthetic without flushing it. It could have had deposits in it from before that made it appear tannish in color when you drained the oil-but that's only a guess. Tan oil is a condition where water has got into the system somehow...did this motor have a remote oil filter block? It could be that if it did and this car was stored for various times throughout the year, the oil hoses themselves could have collected condensation on the inside and over time it mixed with the oil. Can't think of any other reason for it though. -Jabin

Rick Dorion
09-22-2004, 08:43 AM
In all my vehicles I have been using Mobil1. The 69 gets an annual oil change ( about 2-3K miles). The others are on a 10K interval. I get the stuff at Walmart usually for about $20/5 qts. It may, financially, be close to even cost wise but it certainly makes a difference in cold weather starting as the regular cars are always outside.

MuscleRodz
09-22-2004, 08:48 AM
Motor was removed from a 95 Z28 with factory filter and oil cooler set up.

Mike