1968 Camaro Resto-mod 6.0/6 speed; Project Penny Pincher

[ryeguy2006a]

I've been looking to update my seats for a long time, but have been getting along find with the stock 53 year old seats for 5 years now. I guess the biggest reason for me keeping the seats (other than my budget), is that the seats were born with this car. They are far from perfect, but are in much better shape than most after that long. That said, I had been thinking of updating my seats recently and sent a message to my buddy Don. He has a 1967 Camaro that he pulled these out of in favor of some dedicated racing seats since his car is more oriented towards Auto X. He gave me a deal on the seats, first gen brackets and a matching rear seat cover. He lives a little over 2 hours from me, but he was going to be at an AutoX event this past weekend and said he'd bring them along. I was considering going to the event anyway, so it was a great opportunity to take the car out and the weather was a beautiful upstate, NY fall day. Changing leaves and all. Unfortunately I didn't grab any pictures...

Anyway, drove up to the event and swapped the seats right in the parking lot haha. My brother-in-law rode up with me and we had them swapped out in about 20 mins. Got to watch Don and the others race a few times and then hit the road back home. Next year I'll get my car out to an event. It took me most of the summer to dial in the car, but it will be ready for next year. Here's the car loaded up with the new seats installed and the old seats in the back. Driver's seat fit in the trunk and the passenger had to go behind my seat.

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We had a great ride home, but after I filled up I smelled some raw gas. I didn't think much of it because I had done a few hard accelerations and figured it was coming out of the filler neck or something. But then we got about 20 mins from home and it got interesting. Was cruising along, then all of a sudden my wideband started flashing yellow/red on my 3.5" screen and it died. Tried cranking it over and nothing. Fuel pressure is only reading about 15 psi?? I got the car pulled over to the side of the road then after a little troubleshooting, I tried it again and it went right back to 43psi where I have it tuned for. That was strange??

Ran fine, but I went easy on it. Then after I dropped off my BOL, I was about a mile from the house and it got bad. It would only build about 10-25 psi, and wouldn't stay consistent. I was thankfully able to limp the car home. I haven't had time to diagnose the issue, but I'm leaning towards bad fuel pumps or possibly a cracked fuel fitting on the assembly which is very common on the CTS-V pumps. I'm not happy about the fueling issue, but I will say that without the Terminator X system I would have had to get a tow truck. What is simply amazing about this system is because of the learning features, it added 50% fuel across my fuel tables which enabled the car to run enough to get me home. I was already thrilled with the ECU/software already, but for me this was just amazing. I can only imagine the many other situations where this system could save engines by it's learning capabilities.

After I got home, I unloaded the car and then grabbed some pictures of the seats. I'm in love with them, and they look right at home. Love the bolstering and how much more connected I feel to the car. You feel so much more planted and even the clutch engagement feels more solid now. Very pleased! Thanks Don.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/10/51550154055_6d5845a0c7_b-1.jpg

I need to do a little tweaking on the seats because they seem to be interfering with my seat belt retractor. I had to pop off the little covers so that I could get them to fit and slide without hitting. I'll address that soon.

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The other big win is that the seats allow me to have more leg room, while keeping my son's seat at the same location! I think that if I could find a different car seat for him, we would both be much more comfortable.

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I need to dig into the issue with the fuel pump because I'd really like to do so cruising this fall. I hooked up the heater in the car this spring so that I could drive it later into the fall! I'm hoping it is a simple fix, but we will have to see.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

It's been a little bit since my last update. I haven't been able to drive the car because of the fuel issue. After further investigation, I determined that unfortunately the fuel pump outlet has some micro-cracks and is weeping fuel. So that explains why I was losing pressure and got a slight gas smell after I drove the car and parked it in the garage.

It was really hard to capture in a picture, but there are a few hairline cracks on the top. The real issue I found later on though.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/10/51553384047_e6bcb7cfa5_b-1.jpg

Rather than buying a whole new fuel pump assembly for $1k+, I opted to buy an ALM Performance replacement hat that is machined from billet aluminum and comes with a full flow -6AN fitting. It was a little pricey, but much cheaper than buying a whole new pump. It's a shame that it will be hidden under the car too. I'll have to open up my hatch from time to time and look at it.

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Speaking of the fuel pump hatch, I'm SOO glad that I installed that hatch now. It was incredibly easy to remove the fuel pump. A few wiring connections, the fuel line, locking ring and it popped right out. Took me less than 3 minutes.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/10/51626975272_6060d09e6a_b-1.jpg

In order to remove the hat, you have to pop out these little c-clips. I made a little hook on the end of a piece of mechanics wire to grab and pop them off.

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Pulled it all apart and cut the stock hose off.

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Then to get to the other side of the hose, I had to pull apart the assembly. Started with a few little clips that retain the pumps to the bucket.

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Popped off this hose.

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Had to carefully pull up on this piece. There's an o-ring that seals it together tightly, so it took a little effort to pop off.

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Then here's where I found the real issue with my fuel pressure. When I removed the fuel pumps, I found this junk in the bottom of the fuel bucket! Looks like a rubber band and some cardboard remnants! Upon further investigation, there was a piece even wedged in the pump inlet at the bottom of the fuel bucket!

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To top that off, the fuel pump sock was disgusting. There were little bits of that cardboard among other junk. It was a used pump and I could blame the guy I bought it from, but he gave me a great price on it because it was in unknown condition. It's on me for not inspecting it more closely. There is also the possibility that the cardboard could have fallen into my tank at some point. regardless, I'm glad I found this out now before I grenaded my motor.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/10/51628452539_ef6a8cb62c_b-1.jpg

Huge shout out to Carl with Vaporworx! I had mentioned to him the issues with fueling that I was having and he offered to test out my module at no charge. It fit in my timeframe and he turned it around within 24 hours. It was back to me within a week, so I'm very grateful for that. Then to top it off, when I found this fuel sock I wasn't able to find a replacement. He had one in stock and got it shipped to me right away! I had it in a few days and it got me back together. If you need anything fuel related, go to Carl!

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[ryeguy2006a]

After I replaced the fuel sock with the new one, I moved on to installing the new fuel hose provided with the kit. I carefully sliced the old hose with a fresh razor blade and it split right open.

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Clamp down the hose tightly. I happen to have a pair of the crimpers that are made for these style clamps. (I'll edit this in the future, but I'm having a fuel pressure drop at WOT that I think is from not clamping this hard enough. Will update when I find a solution)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/10/51628020293_f1292985ca_b-1.jpg

Then I moved on to installing the new hat. It is installed in the reverse of how it was disassembled. I had to pop in those little c-clips into the guide rod, put the pump assembly back into the fuel bucket and the springs into the pocket of the bucket.

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There are also a few wiring components that need to be de-pinned and put into new connectors. They are all provided with the kit.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/10/51628020213_171638207b_b-1.jpg

One thing I didn't like was that this connector is bulkier and to get full compression needs to sit outside the bucket. It's not a "problem" since you can remove and install it like this, but worth noting.

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Now I have a complete assembly again with much better fuel fittings. The full flow fittings should allow the pumps to flow fuel more easily so in theory should be easier on the pumps and potentially more at full duty cycle. I also measured the new outlet just for fun and it is substantially larger. By my calculations it's roughly 37% larger ID.

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Next up was reinstalling the pump. I grabbed a cheap pump ring installation tool on Amazon and this is well worth the money. I popped it on and it clicked right into the slot easily with my breaker bar.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/10/51628451979_5ebc6d36a7_b-1.jpg

The last thing that needed to be done was swapping over the connect for the pumps. Because the mating connector for the fuel pump side isn't made, it is necessary to de-pin and reassemble using the new connector.

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Good news is I was able to get in the car and after a few cycles of the fuel pump I had full pressure again. Fired up the car and had full fuel pressure! Took the car out for a spin and it performed flawlessly. What better way to break in a new fuel pump than a 2nd gear rolling burnout?

I didn't get any pictures but last night I finally got around to wiring up the manifold referenced signals to the PressureWorx module. I'm hoping to get out tonight and test it out. Should provide more fuel pressure as the boost increases. Should ensure I have no fueling issues up top. I got lazy. I ran the wires front to rear, but never took the time to hook them up. I also extended the wires for my flex fuel connector, connected it and ran it into the car. Now let's see how long it takes me to actually hook it up haha. The closest e85 station to me is about 45 mins so I'm not in a huge rush to finish the install.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

Oh and for those who are interested. Here is a picture of my fuel learn table after I drove home with the low fuel pressure. It added fuel where I was trying to keep the car running. This is an important thing to remember when you have the EFI systems that have learning capabilities. I made sure to reset the table and reflashed it back to my ECU, because if not it would be adding all that fuel and be wayyy rich. It would have probably fouled plugs and generally been bad for the motor. Similar issues happen to guys when the wideband O2 fails. When you install the new part you have to remember to reset the fuel learn tables.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/10/51627801371_a97ef132c1_b-1.jpg

[ryeguy2006a]

Ok, well I've been through a bit of a rollercoaster since my last update. As I was tuning my car before my dyno session for some power pulls, I realized that I was running out of fuel in full boost. It was very discouraging, because I was really looking forward to getting the car on the dyno... Being that I'm in NY, we have very little time before we get a snowstorm and the towns all spread salt on the roads. But after bouncing some ideas off some trusted car colleagues (thanks Andrew), I was able to determine that it's very likely that my one or both of my stock fuel pumps are failing or weak. They are just not able to keep up with my fuel demands in boost and rpms. I took a data log and you can see here in the blue is my fuel pressure and the yellow is the ECU trying to add back fuel. Fuel pressure gets down to around 22psi in full boost, but with the fuel module it ramps up the fuel pressure 1:1 with boost. So, I've definitely got a problem...

One thing that may not be clear from this graph though is Holley saved my engine. If I was running a stock ECU that didn't have the ability to add that much fuel up top in boost, I would likely be shopping for a new short block.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/11/51657743394_a46639c125_b-1.jpg

The solution was to contact Carl at Vaporworx and order a pair of upgraded fuel pumps from AEM. He recommended a pair of AEM 320 lph @ 43psi pumps which are a direct swap for the stock 190 lph CTS-V fuel pumps. This should provide me plenty of fuel all the way up to 60+ psi and even have enough flow if/when I run e85. Carl was able to expedite them to me and I was able to swap them out last night.

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I'm getting pretty good at this by now... here's how the stock pumps attach inside the bucket.

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Pop off the white retaining clip, and the fuel pumps pull right out.

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Here you can see the fuel pumps are an exact direct fit for the stockers. Wiring harness and all.

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One thing that does need to be swapped over is the little white spacers from the stock pumps. They go on first and I used one of the new o-rings that came with the kit.

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Then they just slide right in. The fuel socks are separate, but they all fit inside the bucket nicely. Then it was all back together and ready to go. SOOO glad that I added that fuel door in the trunk. I would have gotten sick of pulling that tank by now...

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Then it was time for the moment of truth. Was that really the issue??? I went out to do a little testing and tuning and found out that was exactly my problem! I took the car out for about an hour during my lunchbreak and honed in my in boost fuel VE table. It was way out of wack, but I was able to get a few data points and get it looking wayyy better.

Here I am out mingling and trying to fit in...

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I played around with my fueling once I grabbed lunch, then took a log on the way home. Bingo, that's what I wanted to see! Rising fuel pressure along with the boost. Blue is fuel pressure, yellow is CL compensation, and I added green for boost. Fuel pressure stays constant, then rises with boost. Fuel trims still need work as you can see. Too rich as it's pulling 25% fuel, but I'd rather be too rich than too lean up top. Looks like for this run I topped out at just shy of 11psi.

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I also got this cool shot when I brought my car to work last week.

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I re-scheduled my Dyno appointment for Monday so wish me luck. I think I'm ready now. It's definitely running as strong as ever now.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

In preparation for the dyno appointment on Monday, I was checking over the car for anything that could be an issue. Then I noticed one last thing... My rear end slid forward on the driver's side again! So this is definitely an issue and since I had already bought all the parts to fix it, I pulled it all apart. As soon as I got the shock plate off, it was clear that the bolt was sheared off.

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Quick fix with the new grade 8 hardware.

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Went back together and was centered back in the wheel well just like before. Not sure why it broke, but now it should stay in place.

Now the car was as ready as it was going to be and I headed out to the dyno. I made a couple pulls on the highway and still had rock solid fuel pressure! That bad pump really messed up my VE tables, but I was tweaking on it every time that I drove it since I swapped fuel pumps. I got it dialed in to where I was +/-5% in closed loop and still was after I opened her up. I had prepared 3 different tunes loaded on the handheld for the car. Dyno 1 tune was the same one I've been running all summer. Second and third each had the same tune, other than progressively adding timing in the WOT areas.

I arrived at the Overdrive Automotive and we got right to work. I had my dyno 1 tune in the car, we got the car up on the dyno and he got the car rolling in 4th gear and hit it. You could hear the car load up at first, but then quickly hit the rev limiter. Spun on the dyno! They sprayed some sticky aerosol and tightened the straps a few more clicks. Next run we were able to get a clean pull although he said it was still spinning a little bit around 3500 rpms. 596 HP and 497 TQ! In my head I really wanted to hit 600 rwhp, so the fact that we were this close right out of the gate, I knew that we could do it. He did make a few adjustments on the next few pulls to the timing tables between 60-100 kpa which he said was mostly for drivability and we bumped the rev limiter from 6500 to 6950 on my dyno 1 tune rather than loading dyno 2 or 3.

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Here's the video! I love the way it sounds.

https://youtu.be/UFD9SW36-n8

We continued to have traction issues, and he added some solution from VP that really helped with traction for drag racing applications. That was the ticket and we ended up with final numbers of 633 HP and 619 TQ! I couldn't be happier with the results and how it all came together. What's amazing to me is that the tune is still on the more conservative side with my timing. He said that if we wanted to we could keep adding power because with a change of .5* of timing we gained around 7 HP on the last pull. He guessed we could probably add another 2-3 degrees. But I'm more than happy with this power level right now. I can always get a full on dyno tune, run full length headers, pulley changes for more boost and even add e85 to my tune up down the road for more power.

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What I've learned from this whole experience is number one... I need more traction! Number 2 is that your tune is everything. Holley makes their software really easy to use and make good power, but it isn't self tuning by any means. You either need to read up and do a lot of homework like I did, or leave it to someone who really knows what they are doing. Even with all of the homework that I did, there is no replacement for an experienced tuner. Tom at Overdrive made a few changes to my car on the fly and it made a big difference as far as the drivability after the dyno. I've learned a lot just watching him and can't wait to continue tweaking the tune. He mentioned adding a 2 step to a clutch pedal, that I may give a try for next year.

I've still got some nice weather in the forecast so I'm looking forward to getting the most out of this year and get some more miles on her.

Cheers,
Ryan

[mnr60]

That is so BADASS!
love reading your updates Ryan,
motivates me to make progress on my car.

[andrewb70]

Outstanding results?

Andrew

[joeko23]

Sounds awesome Ryan! That’s a great power level. Your probably around 750hp at the crank if not more, amazing!

[Bugzilla]

That TQ curve is just awesome.

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks guys, the car really came together for me. It's a total blast to drive with all that torque.

[nebdrummer]

Bad ass numbers man! Its gotta be fun. Whats the weight? Did I miss that? My pickup should be making right around 1000hp now, but its over 4100lbs. I'm hoping for my camaro to be around that 550-600 mark.

[Just 1 More]

Those are great HP & TQ numbers.. gotta be a blast to drive

[TANKMASTERJ]

Looking and sounding killer Ryan.
Now you get to enjoy all the labor.
I see too many people build and then sell with hardly any miles on them. It's crazy. I'm building mine to drive. And probably for a casket since there won't be any money left for one lol
Tankmasterj

[ryeguy2006a]

Haha, thanks Jason. As crazy as it sounds, I have considered selling it. I think I like building the cars as much, if not even a little more than driving them. Especially with the prices that the used car market is currently bringing...

[ryeguy2006a]

I haven't done anything with the car since the snow started flying here in NY. I've been planning out some smaller projects for this winter and found a few good deals on Black Friday.

I'll start by saying a big thank you to EBC brakes! I entered a raffle on Camaros.net, and they picked me for a free set of front brake pads! They let me pick what I wanted so I went with the Red Stuff pads for my C6 Z51 brakes. Should make a difference with stopping power and they are supposed to have almost zero brake dust.

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This year I'm not planning on doing any big projects like last year; full engine rebuild, engine swap, trans rebuild, supercharger swap to name a few...

One thing that did bother me last year was that my rear gears are too short now with the supercharger. After a lot of thought and calculations, I decided that I need a 3.42 rear gear instead of the 4.11's I'm running now. I need to get something taller, but unfortunately for me I opted for a 4 series carrier rather than the 3 series when I first built the rear diff. So that means that along with gears I also needed to buy a new carrier. I've only used a posi unit with clutches, but decided that this time I'd like to try a gear type carrier. While searching around for my options I found that for a few dollars more I could get an carrier with 33 splines. So what started as a gear swap, turned into a full upgrade. I bought a 33 spline Eaton TrueTrac, Richmond 3.42 gears, Timken master rebuild kit and a pair of Yukon direct replacement 33 spline axles.

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When I built my rear differential originally, I really wanted a TA cover but opted for the stock one due to my lack of budget. Since I was going to have the cover off anyway, I decided now was the time.

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The gear swap should only take a few weekends to finish, and I'll have to take my break in period in the spring.

They haven't shipped yet, but I also picked up a set of DSE frame connectors for a really good price on Monday. That will be a much more involved project, but looks pretty straightforward. I'm going to take my time to ensure that my fitment is spot on. I've decided that I'm going to stick with my stock wheel tubs and figure out how to get it to hook. It may involve a set of 15" wheels and sticky tires.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

As I do most nights, I was checking out FB marketplace to see if anything interesting was posted for sale. I found a guy who has posted up a pair of 18x9 Rocket Attack wheels with Falken 660 tires with about 1k miles on them. He was asking a really good price, but more than I wanted to spend. On a whim, I asked if he would be interested in my 12 bolt axles, carrier and gears. To my surprise he said yes, and after a little back and forth we traded on Saturday. The problem was everything was still installed in my car, so I had to rip it all out on Friday night.

I was able to pull it all out in about 1.5 hours, so I was pretty happy about that. No real drama.

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Before I did the swap, I wanted to check a few things because when I was looking up the pros/cons of upgrading to a 33 spline axle in a 12 bolt one thing that came up was the weight of the axles. The guys were saying that the added weight in rotational mass may not be worth the added strength since the 30 splines are really strong anyway. What was great is I happen to have one stock 30 spline axle, one aftermarket 30 spline axle, and 2 aftermarket 33 spline axles. So I thought why not throw them on the sale and measure the diameter of the shafts.

First up was the stock axle shaft. Weighed in at 14.2 lbs, and 1.26" in diameter the majority of the length of the shaft. It was hard to measure since it varied.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/12/51744134043_f78e32779d_b-1.jpg

Next was the aftermarket 30 spline axle. Weighed in at 14.8 lbs, and had a diameter of 1.32" until it gets close to the splined section where it necked down to 1.26"

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/12/51743890006_9c37fed470_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/12/51743890006_9c37fed470_b-1.jpg

And lastly it was my new aftermarket 33 spline axles. Weighed in at 14.8 lbs. (although this didn't include the studs), and had the same 1.32" diameter the entire length of the shaft right to the splines. I'd guess that the studs will only add maybe another .2 lbs. so still very close to what an aftermarket 30 spline weighs.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/12/51743890051_2d4858b18b_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/12/51743890191_33bbec0361_b-1.jpg

So the conclusion that I'm going to draw is that if you are upgrading to an aftermarket axle shaft, there is a minimal weight difference between the 30-33 spline axles. I received my studs and some brake line plugs on Sunday so hopefully I can pull the diff so that I can install the new gears up on my work bench rather than on my back.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/12/51744133558_fc9a8b5287_b-1.jpg

Oh, you guys probably want to see some pictures of the wheels.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/12/51744133333_1b914e0383_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/12/51744536014_8e039d1144_b-1.jpg

I really love the wheels, but I'm still unsure if they will actually work on the front unfortunately. They are 18x9 with a 4.5" backspacing and have a 255/35 front tire. I would feel much better with a 5" backspacing, but time will tell if they will work.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/12/51743889846_b5a36c2c76_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/12/51744133758_23f78ca68c_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/12/51744133548_c7c3772b37_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/12/51744780890_6ee40fc3c8_b-1.jpg

I'd love some input from anyone who's run a similar wheel and/or tire size. Rolling the fender lip is out of the question, but I may consider notching the inner fender if necessary. I actually have fiberglass inner fenders so this wouldn't be too bad to modify. If I can get them to work, I'll sell my BMW wheels and then pick up a matching set for the rear in 18x11 with a pair of Falken 660's in 315 flavor! Fingers crossed.

I'd also possibly be open to any creative options that I could do for relatively cheap to effectively increase my backspacing. Only thing I can think of is possibly running a different hub that could tuck the wheel in further, but that also creates other issues.

Thanks,
Ryan

[andrewb70]

Nice work Ryan.

Very good info in the axle weight. As always, hard facts tend to contradict internet myth.

Andrew

[Just 1 More]

Those look great

[ryeguy2006a]

Pretty excited about this next update. I orders some frame connectors and mini-tubs from Detroit Speed. Thanks to MCB for being so easy to work with and having the best prices around. They said the wait for the 67-69 mini-tub kit was 3-4 weeks, but it showed up in 1 week the same day they said the frame connectors were to arrive. Thanks Kim and Melissa.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/12/51760857331_fe926d65e9_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/12/51760027892_18715a6d56_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/12/51760027692_b1a6c7b807_b-1.jpg

I've also pulled the rear differential to get it prepped for the re-gear. It kinda feels like I'm going in the opposite direction, but it is progress. The new gears should make a big difference toward putting the power to the ground and the frequency that I was shifting. In case you missed it in an earlier post, I'm swapping out the 4.10 gears for 3.42 gears. When I originally ordered my Yukon Duragrip carrier, I went with a 4 series rather than the 3 series. So dropping down to a 3.42 gear meant that I needed a new carrier... Hindsight is 20/20 I suppose. I went back and forth between buying a 3 or 4 series a few years ago. But since I needed a new carrier anyway I decided to go with an Eaton TrueTrac and after looking around it was only a few dollars more to upgrade to 33 spline axles. When I originally put my differential together it had one stock axle and one aftermarket. I was planning on getting a new axle at some point anyway so this was an opportunity to get two new stronger axles at the same time. Differential kit with gears came from Quick performance and the axles were from Ron's Machine Shop. Best prices on the internet for both if you are in the market.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/12/51761097653_7781c80dbd_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/12/51760027707_626fe5ac6a_b-1.jpg

I should have the differential together soon. I got the new Koyo bearings pressed on the carrier and pinion gear. Jim, I'll try and do a sort of step by step for you if I can.

Cheers,
​​​​​​​Ryan

[mnr60]

You do GREAT work sir!

[TANKMASTERJ]

Haha, thanks Jason. As crazy as it sounds, I have considered selling it. I think I like building the cars as much, if not even a little more than driving them. Especially with the prices that the used car market is currently bringing...
Haha Ran I don't know about building being more fun than driving lol bjt yeah I love the build. You stand back every time you get something else done and and hell yeah I did that my way. And watching guys like you build it to the drive stage, then go back in and constantly make it better pushes us to do better in all stages. Your thread and car rocks
Jason

[sqrlnts]

I appreciate the compliments. Hoping to get the rest of the materials to modify the tank soon.

Hey just curious if you want to split up the Rocket Attacks. Shoot me a message to discuss. Thanks.

[ryeguy2006a]

Jason, Thank you for the compliments, but sometimes I think I have a problem haha.

I was able to make some time here and there over the holiday break between visiting family to get the rear end set up. I'll do my best to do a quick write-up to hopefully give confidence to others to attempt. Really isn't that difficult with the rights parts and tools.

I started by completely disassembling the differential and took it down to the carwash to get power washed. First step is getting the new bearings pressed onto the pinion gear and carrier. The gear kit that I bought came with brand new Koyo bearings with the master install kit.

Before you can install the bearing on the pinion gear, you first need to add a shim. Best advice I've gotten was to start with the stock shim that came out of the differential. My stock shim was .0315, but if you don't have that shim my instructions that came with my kit said a stock 12 bolt shim is .030. So that would be a good starting point. I found two shims that came to .031 and used that as a starting point.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/33837214644_1025c1c76b_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/34549228021_2076295ac6_b-1.jpg

I installed new bearings and races about 3500 miles ago, but if you are doing a complete rebuild, I would suggest knocking out the races and installing new at this point. Next I took my new pinion gear and installed it in the rear end without a crush sleeve. It's important at this step that you just snug the pinion down until there is no play in the bearings. Since there is no washer it would be very easy to get the bearings too tight and ruin them at this stage. Just get the pinion nut tight enough that the play front to back is gone and maybe a touch more to give it a bit of preload. But it doesn't take much. Spin it around to make sure there is no binding. It's also a good idea to put some gear oil on the bearings since they are brand new.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51797289755_17806bb7bb_b-1.jpg

I bought this handy tool to hold the yoke while I tightened the nut and it worked beautifully. I think it was from Ratech, but I can't remember. I used this for both tightening and loosening the pinion nut.

Next up was installing the ring gear onto the carrier. I used a file on both the ring gear and carrier to make sure that the surface was completely clean and flat before installing the gear. I did actually find a little nick in the carrier surface that needed to be filed down. Would have definitely caused it to run out of true. This is an important step and is also in most instructions. The gear fought me a little getting lined up but just take your time and use a little heat. I used a small torch and lightly heated up the ring gear then made sure to get one bolt lined up and tapped it into place with a deadblow hammer. I know it's not recommended, but once I got a few of the bolts started I used them to pull the gear up flush. I only turned the bolts maybe a 1/4 turn at a time and went very slow to walk it up flush. Then I pulled all the bolts, added Loctite and torqued.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51796930859_8483fe7a40_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51796681168_d986ee365d_b-1.jpg

I had planned on using my old shims, but realized that at some point the old shim pack had wiggled out of place and was contacting the axle. Not good, but glad I caught it when I did. I mention this because although my rear was making no noises, I think that I didn't have enough preload on my carrier bearings. Either that or the bearings weren't quite pressed on all the way. I was able to pull the carrier out of the rear without prying on it upon disassembly. I think what happened was a kept the shims loose enough that I could pull it in and out for the next step, but never added the shims back in to give pre-load. Gotta post the good with the bad.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51797056324_1fecb0e7d5_b-1.jpg

Next was to get the carrier installed in the rear to see what adjustments need to be made. What I did was kept the old shims labeled from when I disassembled earlier on. I measured those shims and use that measurement as a starting point. What's nice about these new shim packs is that they use a capture style setup, so they become almost one piece once installed.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51796930699_2fab2f46bf_b-1.jpg

When I used the measurements from the last go around, I found that I needed to add several shims to get the tight preload needed for the carrier bearings. I wasn't taking any chances this time and decided to get them tight from the start even if it's more challenging to get in and out. Initially I was pretty close and had a backlash of .016, but we are shooting for between .007-.009 since my gears and bearings are new.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51796681113_30c62a32d1_b-1.jpg

The instructions said that you need to move in increments of .003 to notice a difference, so I kept moving .005 since that was the smallest shim I had in those packs. I kept fighting with the shims because when I would swap the .005 from side to side, it would either be .006 or .011. So I measured all of my shims and played around with it and got it to .010. I decided that it was good enough. So I painted the gears with the yellow paint to see where my pattern was. The instructions I had gave a ton of scenarios for what was acceptable and mine look good according to the pictures. pattern is mostly centered top bottom and left right on the gear faces.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51796930574_522e47980f_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51796680913_51e9f2b741_b-1.jpg

Then I blew everything apart to prep for final assembly. I pulled off the yoke applied silicone to the splines and both sides of the washer. This time I installed my old crush sleeve and put it all back together with Loctite on the pinion nut. If you are using a new crush sleeve you have to get ready to crush it. It takes something like 400 lb ft to get it to crush so make sure you eat your Wheaties. I re-used my crush sleeve since it was new and still had tons of tension. As a matter of fact it had so much that I had to crush it more to get the 14-19 in lb rotational torque. I used that yoke holder and added a bar for more leverage. I don't have a dial style torque wrench for in lb, but have a bar style and click type. I used both of those to check one another and I feel confident my settings are good.

After I got the pinion nut torqued I reinstalled the carrier with the shim packs and tapped it all back into place. Torqued the carrier caps and I got lucky or something because when I rechecked the backlash, I was right on .009! I'd rather have mine on the loose side anyway than too tight.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51797289325_5321d6da26_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51796559691_7013f26aa3_b-1.jpg

Then with it all torqued down, I test fit my TA cover. Looks really good now! I've always wanted one of those covers and so glad I went for it this time around.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51796930404_3e71b4b83b_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51797289105_c60e4d0d93_b-1.jpg

It's not quite done yet because I still need to paint the raw steel ends of my axles then install with the c-clips and center plug. Once that's done though I can button it all back up and put it back in the car. I first need to find someone to help me get it off my work bench. It's way heavier now that it's fully loaded!

I also want to say that the car community is so great. Thanks to a fellow member of Camaros.net who sent me some parts he won't be using. Thanks Frank!! It's a set of 67 spring perches for running my springs inboard. These should work perfectly for me.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51797056269_307cabf51f_b-1.jpg

I also need to re-clock my brake line tabs since they were hitting the exhaust. I didn't realize that, so I will just move them down more in line with the stock brake line tabs. Then I can get the rear back under the car and start on the frame connectors.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

Continuing on the assembly of my rear differential, I installed and torqued down my ARP Wheel studs to match the front. I've never used a screw in stud before, but according to Yukon I added some high strength thread locker and torqued to 90 lb ft. I actually used 95 lbs just because. Before that I also cleaned up the mating surfaces since they were raw uncoated. I just found some gray paint that I had left over.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51819045327_8bd962236b_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51819991896_7bf85d8ac9_b-1.jpg

Once they were installed, I put the C Clips in and the puck that comes with the TrueTrac. I really like that little puck instead of the pin in the Eaton copy because there is hardly any endplay in the axles now. I also like how the puck is retained in the carrier with the clip. Very nice design overall.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51819991456_5edc6854a3_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51820334329_e70d47922c_b-1.jpg

Another little adjustment that I needed to make was how I mounted the brake lines. Where they were on the top of the axle housing rubbed on the exhaust tail pipes, which I didn't realize until I was taking out the differential. So I cut them off and rotated down where the stock lines would have been. I didn't get a picture, but because of the relocation, I had to bend up some new lines to meet up. Both ended up a little short so I used some extra line I had.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51820709295_39d16c1a9f_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51819991116_bbdb25a92c_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51819044757_50180373a3_b-1.jpg

Once the new lines were finished, back in the car she goes. Just needs to be filled with oil and that's a done deal.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51819041767_c99e6b1bc0_b-1.jpg

Good news is that the Rocket wheels fit the rear! So they will work for rears if someone is interested.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51819041667_7d29ea9dbd_b-1.jpg

Now that the rear is back together, it's time to start on the frame connectors! Out goes the interior. I'll need to modify the rear seat frames anyway for the mini-tubs so I needed the back seats out anyway.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51819041852_8fd8c67eb5_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51819041622_0610017943_b-1.jpg

First up before I did any cutting was to make sure that the frame was square. Now I thought it was good to go, but I never had a tape measure on it. Glad I did because I was out of square by about 3/16". Also the frame measured 1/2" more forward on the passenger side from the same reference point on the rear frame. I basically loosened up 3 body bolts and the 2 core support bolts. I left the short side rear frame bolt tight, then pulled on the passenger side wheel with some jackstands under the body and the weight taken off the frame. Worked great. I had to do that twice to get it to move enough, but after that I was 1/16" out of square, and the frame was only 1/16" forward now. Close enough for me.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51819041242_94aebc7ed1_b-1.jpg

Cut out my templates and laid them out roughly where they will go.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51820102123_a6329118ed_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51819040952_685cb38e34_b-1.jpg

So because I had to take out the battery and battery tray to get to the core support bolts I figured I'd also install my new coolant overflow tank. It's from a 75-79 Chevy Nova and fits really nicely in the passenger fender space that is unoccupied.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51819041417_395fa93fe5_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51820705910_f580d968cb_b-1.jpg

It has a nice single mounting tab that meets up nicely with the ridge on the passenger fender too.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51820330844_bcd298e65c_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51820102353_cce32bce1d_b-1.jpg

Almost invisible now. You can see the old overflow I had. When I had my 14" fan it was tucked down nice and low, but after the C7 fan was installed, I had to relocate to the fender brace temporarily.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51820705765_d2da740730_b-1.jpg

Here's what it looked like before. Not a great picture, but you can see it doesn't flow in that location.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/08/51368021175_24da82e736_b-1.jpg

That's all for now. Hoping to start on the passenger side frame connector tonight.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

I've been plugging away working on the frame connectors. I made some good progress so I'll post up some pictures. I can't just take a weekend and knock them out, so I'm posting up the progress I make in 1-2 hour sessions.

Once I got the templates laid out, I scribed the lines and made the cuts. Now since my interior is completely installed, I had to get creative on how to avoid damaging it. Since we regularly get large boxes from Target, I decided to use one for a "tent" and keep the sparks inside this little box.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51853205712_a43d988819_b-1.jpg

Then I cut out these seat plates to get to the cuts underneath.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51827337322_33724fb6a3_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51828627509_9ee63ddcee_b-1.jpg

The overall fitment is pretty good for the first test fit. I do have a few gaps larger than I would have liked, but nothing that can't be fixed. What I used for my first cut was a 3' long metal ruler and made sure to line up the template on the bottom with the ruler to connect the rear frame rail with the front. That way I knew that my one line was very straight. I then trimmed with a pair of metal shears until I could fit the connector up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51828627474_6e54685f20_b-1.jpg

DSE makes the connectors a little long on the front so that you can trim to fit closely to your frame. they say it should be 1/2" from the front of the frame connector to the back of the sub-frame. I used my handy bandsaw which made really nice clean cuts.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51828627394_9891952475_b-1.jpg

Tacked the end cap in place and then fully welded it up. I had to play around with my settings at first so there were a few more stitches than I wanted, but great penetration so It's all good.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51828627169_dcbd6cbe07_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51828283606_6194a551fd_b-1.jpg

I then test fit the frame plates and assumed they were all the same at first, but they aren't. Make sure that you are using the inner/outer when you mock them up. The ends of the sub-frame are just slightly different.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51828394658_040c4f765a_b-1.jpg

I clamped them in place and made sure it had a really tight fit. Then put some tack welds on to hold them in place.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51827336847_b4b74df043_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51827336742_a53279cee3_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51828394648_0cb581eb21_b-1.jpg

I then repeated the process on the driver's side. Everything was the same with one exception, the rear frame rail fitment. The passenger side was nice and tight and the width was going to tie in nicely. Once welded and flap disked, it will blend in very seamlessly. However, the driver's side was about 3/16" too wide at the taper.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51854493799_3cbaa4514a_b-1.jpg

That gap was too large to overcome, so I had to modify it. Wasn't really expecting to do that, but we are building custom cars so not completely out of left field. I measured the amount that I needed to narrow it, then cut a pie shaped piece out of it. That large metal ruler came in handy for this too.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51853205287_8b77a41753_b-1.jpg

Note that I added two reference lines to put the frame rail in the same spot. After I increased the taper, it fit just like the other side.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51854168136_c138426dc5_b-1.jpg

Welded up the seam and hit with the flap disk until it disappeared.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51854167841_af7cd30839_b-1.jpg

At this point both sides have been mocked up and fit pretty good. Time to get the frame plates welded to the frame connectors. I stopped over to my dad's for that though since he has a bigger welder that can weld the 1/4" frame plates to the 1/8" connectors.

I still need to play around with his welder since I don't use it all the time. His welder has always had way more welding spatter than mine. I had to chisel them off and grind smooth when I got home. One of these days I'll get a larger welder.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51854826335_bb878d4e1b_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51854493519_5d52b22bf1_b-1.jpg

This was my best weld for the day, definitely need more practice.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51854167556_192ec94552_b-1.jpg

Then yesterday I was able to get some time in the garage I got the frame connectors welded to my frame. I welded them on the outside and inside.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51854826035_0e01774c78_b-1.jpg

They tuck up really nicely. I'm really happy that I went with these connectors. They are definitely more involved to install, but I think will do a better job of tying the frames together.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51854245508_6b513ba5aa_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51854493129_2f2f8c640f_b-1.jpg

I still need to weld the frame rails to the torque box and inside on the floor pans. As well as a few other areas, but I'm hoping to get that all done this week. Then I can paint and seam seal.

I'll be happy to get this project done and out the way.

Cheers,
Ryan

[Just 1 More]

Very nice work

[csouth]

Nice Progress!!!

[andrewb70]

Well done Ryan!

Andrew

[mnr60]

Great work Ryan!
Inspiring to follow your progress.

[cam1968327]

I've been plugging away working on the frame connectors. I made some good progress so I'll post up some pictures. I can't just take a weekend and knock them out, so I'm posting up the progress I make in 1-2 hour sessions.

Once I got the templates laid out, I scribed the lines and made the cuts. Now since my interior is completely installed, I had to get creative on how to avoid damaging it. Since we regularly get large boxes from Target, I decided to use one for a "tent" and keep the sparks inside this little box.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51853205712_a43d988819_b-1.jpg

Then I cut out these seat plates to get to the cuts underneath.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51827337322_33724fb6a3_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51828627509_9ee63ddcee_b-1.jpg

The overall fitment is pretty good for the first test fit. I do have a few gaps larger than I would have liked, but nothing that can't be fixed. What I used for my first cut was a 3' long metal ruler and made sure to line up the template on the bottom with the ruler to connect the rear frame rail with the front. That way I knew that my one line was very straight. I then trimmed with a pair of metal shears until I could fit the connector up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51828627474_6e54685f20_b-1.jpg

DSE makes the connectors a little long on the front so that you can trim to fit closely to your frame. they say it should be 1/2" from the front of the frame connector to the back of the sub-frame. I used my handy bandsaw which made really nice clean cuts.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51828627394_9891952475_b-1.jpg

Tacked the end cap in place and then fully welded it up. I had to play around with my settings at first so there were a few more stitches than I wanted, but great penetration so It's all good.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51828627169_dcbd6cbe07_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51828283606_6194a551fd_b-1.jpg

I then test fit the frame plates and assumed they were all the same at first, but they aren't. Make sure that you are using the inner/outer when you mock them up. The ends of the sub-frame are just slightly different.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51828394658_040c4f765a_b-1.jpg

I clamped them in place and made sure it had a really tight fit. Then put some tack welds on to hold them in place.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51827336847_b4b74df043_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51827336742_a53279cee3_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51828394648_0cb581eb21_b-1.jpg

I then repeated the process on the driver's side. Everything was the same with one exception, the rear frame rail fitment. The passenger side was nice and tight and the width was going to tie in nicely. Once welded and flap disked, it will blend in very seamlessly. However, the driver's side was about 3/16" too wide at the taper.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51854493799_3cbaa4514a_b-1.jpg

That gap was too large to overcome, so I had to modify it. Wasn't really expecting to do that, but we are building custom cars so not completely out of left field. I measured the amount that I needed to narrow it, then cut a pie shaped piece out of it. That large metal ruler came in handy for this too.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51853205287_8b77a41753_b-1.jpg

Note that I added two reference lines to put the frame rail in the same spot. After I increased the taper, it fit just like the other side.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51854168136_c138426dc5_b-1.jpg

Welded up the seam and hit with the flap disk until it disappeared.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51854167841_af7cd30839_b-1.jpg

At this point both sides have been mocked up and fit pretty good. Time to get the frame plates welded to the frame connectors. I stopped over to my dad's for that though since he has a bigger welder that can weld the 1/4" frame plates to the 1/8" connectors.

I still need to play around with his welder since I don't use it all the time. His welder has always had way more welding spatter than mine. I had to chisel them off and grind smooth when I got home. One of these days I'll get a larger welder.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51854826335_bb878d4e1b_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51854493519_5d52b22bf1_b-1.jpg

This was my best weld for the day, definitely need more practice.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51854167556_192ec94552_b-1.jpg

Then yesterday I was able to get some time in the garage I got the frame connectors welded to my frame. I welded them on the outside and inside.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51854826035_0e01774c78_b-1.jpg

They tuck up really nicely. I'm really happy that I went with these connectors. They are definitely more involved to install, but I think will do a better job of tying the frames together.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51854245508_6b513ba5aa_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/01/51854493129_2f2f8c640f_b-1.jpg

I still need to weld the frame rails to the torque box and inside on the floor pans. As well as a few other areas, but I'm hoping to get that all done this week. Then I can paint and seam seal.

I'll be happy to get this project done and out the way.

Cheers,
Ryan


Nice job Ryan. You can purchase a can of anti splatter spray to minimize or prevent having to chisel or grind it off later. Home Depot or your welding supply has it. Real time saver. Keep up the great work!

[GB68]

Nothing absent in your welding, you got the patience and steady hand!

[ryeguy2006a]

I made some more progress on the car, and finished up everything but welding in the seat plates that I had to cut out in the beginning. Now that the connectors are are welded to the front and rear frames, I could focus on connecting them inside the car. Like others have said, the toughest part was connecting the 1/8" frame connectors to the light gauge steel floor pans. It wasn't bad, just have to get the settings right or you can easily melt through the thinner material. I opted to make the welds hotter so that I could get good penetration on the connectors, then just dipped down to touch the pan for a split second. It worked really well and I'm pleased with the results.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51884187020_4d412fa20f_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51883858209_254b15664b_b-1.jpg

Now that the top side was completely welded, I went back and had to drop the leaf spring perch down to finish welding a little section that was inaccessible. I wanted to make sure that most of the welding was done before I went to this step so that I didn't tweak anything.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51883603268_48697bc7c4_b-1.jpg

Once everything was welded to the frame connectors, I went through and painted everything with an oil based paint that I'm a big fan of. It brushes on and creates a really smooth finish when cured. It looks really glossy right now, but will turn Satin when cured. I need to go back and weld in those seat plates and then I'll be 100% finished with the install. Already the car feels much tighter when I jacked up the car on one corner. I think this will make a big difference.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51883847744_c9f61d9045_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51883528211_52c2ee2e1b_b-1.jpg

I can't wait to get this wrapped up so that I can get the interior back together. I bought some parts that came in for when I recover the rear seats as well as the right dome light switch. The one I have is too short and will occasionally come on when the door is shut.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51883528206_27b07653b1_b-1.jpg

The front wheel on the car had some curb rash and it has always bugged me. I was looking on eBay and happened to find that was kept as a full size spare in the trunk and the site had a 20% off deal. Got it for under $200 with a like new tire.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51882559132_29d0109b30_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51883603283_63b5b42b37_b-1.jpg

Another thing that has bugged me is the rear view mirror I had in the car was original, but very badly deteriorating. I found a guy who had one local and will be swapping that out soon.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51883847849_536372bcab_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51882559182_34ec5d6721_b-1.jpg

The screw I had that had a better finish was damaged a little so I thought I would try the old steel wool trick. Pretty amazing the difference! Not perfect, but way better.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51883528351_0bb91e7c58_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51883847824_648104a1b9_b-1.jpg

I'm going to stop and grab some burlap and new seat foam so that I can reupholster the rear seats. Hoping to get this all wrapped up in the next few weeks.

Thanks,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

Made some great progress over the weekend. I can finally call the frame connector install finished. All that was left was welding in the seat riser sections that I had to cut out for the install. Welded those up and sprayed a little paint.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51897752770_626230d905_b-1.jpg

I realized that there should have been a trunk divider which I never had installed when I first put the car together, so I grabbed one with the jute insulation on it. Hopefully that will quiet the car down a little. I also cleaned my seatbelts with hot water, Oxy clean and a little dish soap. The water was black, and I had to do that twice. Looks like they are a little sun faded.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51897752740_7afbca5feb_b-1.jpg

Note the date code 1968 original belts!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51897101796_9211064510_b-1.jpg

Next up was recovering the rear seats. I got busy and didn't take any pictures during the disassembly or recovering process. I added new burlap and kept the original reinforced burlap for added strength. I re-used the cotton padding, but added a 1.5" layer of foam on top. That really filled out the seat covers and gave more support. I used a hog ring kit and carefully installed them all as well as installing some reinforcement wires to help the hog rings not to pull out. I'm not sure why they didn't come with those, but they were simple to install. I used some scrap 12/3 ga wiring I had left over from a house wiring project. I separated the wires into the individual sections and it worked great. Plus the copper will take a lot longer to corrode than a steel wire will rust. Here they are all done. I left them in my boiler room and used a steamer on the wrinkles, but they weren't coming out. I was hoping that they would have come out smoother.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51897191413_68510c10d2_b-1.jpg

Then yesterday it was in the 50s and sunny so I put them outside for a few hours. BINGO! All the wrinkles were gone on the top of the seat back and the crease line was gone on the seat bottom! That was the ticket and now I'm thrilled with how they came out. Better than I expected actually. Not bad for my first time.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51897191363_2cd4874bdf_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51897752675_c088cfae1b_b-1.jpg

I couldn't help myself, I had to install them last night. Wow what a difference! Little bummed about my sail panels though and how they are almost delaminating...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51897100676_d466cd6409_b-1.jpg

I also got my new to me rear view mirror installed. It's wayy better than the original one that I had.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51897438774_bb4f806fd3_b-1.jpg

I'm hoping to plug away this week and get the carpet and front seats re-installed. It will be nice to have the car back together again.

Ryan

[Tynitty]

Great job recovering the back seat!

[Jk918]

Back seat looks great, I will be tackling the same recovering project as well i have a folder down rear seat in my 67. Who's cover did you go with

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks, I'm really please with the results. The covers are PUI.

[ryeguy2006a]

Been plugging away this weekend to get the interior buttoned up. The easiest one was getting the rear seat bottom installed. Wow, that is a huge difference from the original white seats.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51908368697_156ba78f3a_b-1.jpg

Two years ago:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/05/33991104508_a058d9c794_b-1.jpg

I also put a little elbow grease into my sill plates. While they are not in the best condition, I picked them up at a swap meet along with the RS turn signals from an original RS/Z28 car. Amazing how that aluminum polish cleaned them up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51908368807_5a5f452bb7_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51909654439_ab1397d4da_b-1.jpg

Finished up my 4th Gen Nova overflow jug swap. Turned out so great, I'm so happy I found that as an option. I love how it tucks away in the fender, and the script matches the era perfectly.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51909961470_aba4b05ff0_b-1.jpg

I also got the shroud pieces and CAI painted with the Trim Black that I painted the rest of my engine bay. Turned out really nice. I'm glad that I painted the CAI, I think it looks a lot better than the polished aluminum.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51909654484_8d4d9fd8c6_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51909654469_32677d98c0_b-1.jpg

I also wanted to finalize the supercharger reservoir bracket. I temporarily mounted it last summer and never got around to making a mount. Well because I was driving it haha. My father in law stopped over on night after work and wanted to work on something so I gave him the task of making the bracket. He did a fantastic job, just what I was looking to do.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51909335491_63dddb84ab_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51909335681_000211f633_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51909961160_41fc3df31c_b-1.jpg

All done with the lines re-routed and cleaned up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51908368482_b3c79a1520_b-1.jpg

With that, I decided to clean up the car inside and out. I never cleaned it up before I put the car away last winter... No time like the present!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51909429983_3cdfa6c6db_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51909429963_2296259ecf_b-1.jpg

Cleaned up the engine bay too. I think this is what the final form will look like.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51909653784_dcd9efa9f0_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51909429828_666ae84e97_b-1.jpg

Just to prove that I do drive this car in the winter, I backed down my driveway and grabbed some cool wintery shots. I was on the fence about it, but I'm glad I did. The pictures turned out great. Really cool background. I really like the first one, when the sun peaked out and gave better lighting.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51908368392_bbf3c8276a_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/02/51909430098_443915017c_b-1.jpg

Well I'm going to call the car done for now. Can't wait for spring!!

Cheers,
Ryan

[Vimes]

Looking good, enjoy the drive.

[ryeguy2006a]

I wished it was longer, but I only backed down the driveway maybe 800 ft. then back into the garage haha. Huge tease for sure.

[Motown 454]

At least you drove it!! and got some nice pictures. Nice job on the rear seat.

[ryeguy2006a]

Well, I'm really proud of the car that I've built, but I've decided to put it on the chopping block. I've been thinking about getting another project, but I can't have two. I've had a lot of fun building and restoring this car, but it's time for me to move on.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1968-chevrolet-camaro-123/

[TheBandit]

I'm sorry to see it up right before the cruising/racing season, but I know you've been thinking about other options for a long while. You built a great car and charted a budget-friendly upgrade path for others. Hope you fetch a good price for it to fund the next one!

[SlideSideways]

Well... that was an unexpected plot twist... GLWS!

[andrewb70]

Well, I'm really proud of the car that I've built, but I've decided to put it on the chopping block. I've been thinking about getting another project, but I can't have two. I've had a lot of fun building and restoring this car, but it's time for me to move on.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1968-chevrolet-camaro-123/

I hope it brings at least what we discussed!

Andrew

[qnitro]

great car and will bring a good number Im sure

[ryeguy2006a]

@qnitro Thanks for the kind words.

Fingers Crossed. Looking to the opportunity to build another project.

[TheBandit]

Did you set a reserve? I can't tell from the BAT listing if there is one and whether or not it was met. 3 days left!

[CSG]

I'm not sure what is normal for BAT but I really respect how you took pics of the car's flaws instead of trying to hide them like a lot of people.

[ryeguy2006a]

Did you set a reserve? I can't tell from the BAT listing if there is one and whether or not it was met. 3 days left!
Hi Clint, Yes there is a reserve. That's one thing that BaT could be a little more clear about is when a listing has a reserve. But maybe they do it that way to encourage bidding regardless of a reserve. I know Clint, the countdown is on and it's killing me. I've been keeping an eye on lots of cars at auction and the real action doesn't start until about 1-2 hours before the end of the listing. Sunday at around 3pm EST the show should start, with the end around 5pm. Once it gets down to under 2 mins of the auction closing, the clock extends 2 mins for every bid, so hopefully it goes to 7pm haha.

Thanks CSR, yes it is highly encouraged by BaT to point out all flaws and imperfections. I went through and pointed out all the things that I'd be looking for if I were purchasing a car. I think that builds bidder confidence so you know what to expect when you bid. Overall I'm very pleased with my experience with them.

[TheBandit]

Thank you for explaining how that works. I didn't know about the +2min thing for every subsequent bid - that's a lot more like a live action than eBay where the auction just suddenly closes. I think that benefits both buyer and seller so the person that really wants it most and is willing to pay up is the one that wins, plus the person selling gets top dollar. The non transparent reserve price makes sense to me too; let the bidding decide if it will meet reserve rather than someone just looking to see.

[thumper877]

Was watching your car the last hour really climbed. Its nice the way they do the 2 minute timer. Guess u didnt sell it? Do they give you the contact number of the highest bidder incase he wants to match your reserve

[Just 1 More]

Did it sell?

[andrewb70]

Did it sell?

Surprisingly, no.

Andrew

[ryeguy2006a]

Unfortunately the bidding didn't reach my reserve price, so the car didn't sell at auction. However, I am having a call today with the high bidder so time will tell if we can make a deal.

[thumper877]

Unfortunately the bidding didn't reach my reserve price, so the car didn't sell at auction. However, I am having a call today with the high bidder so time will tell if we can make a deal.Its good they give you that info. Good luck. Hopefully you get it sold

[ryeguy2006a]

All good things must come to an end, and it's no different for the Penny Pincher Camaro and I. Sorry for the cliché, but a lot of blood, sweat and tears went into this build and I have learned so much in the process. My spot in life has changed from when I first bought this car and with a growing family I'll need something bigger. I feel really good that I was able to revive an old Camaro and bring new life to it. The guy that bought it is really excited for it and is not a re-seller so that makes me feel so much better about the sale. I was able to take the car from a broken down car, to running/driving on it's 50th anniversary. I was able to swap in 3 different engines, with the final being an absolute beast. It was also the first car that I've ever had with any forced induction. I owe a lot to that car, but in the end we are only caretakers of these cars and now it will live on for another 50+ years.

Here's a few send off pictures of the car before, during and after it was loaded up on it's way to Los Angeles.

I wanted to get a proper picture of myself with the car before I sold it, so I got a quick one before it was loaded on the trailer.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/05/52061513969_68fd263448_b-1.jpg

It was in good company too.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/05/52061308073_b7401227e1_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/05/52061282186_7288cbfa33_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/05/52060237657_4db480fef6_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/05/52061281991_36114582b0_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/05/52060237462_a2827b9a71_b-1.jpg

I'd like to thank everyone here that has helped me along the way with parts, advice/suggestions, critiques, or other support. Great community here and I look forward to sharing my next project when it comes along. It's likely going to be a 2 door wagon of some sort. I want to find a solid body late 50s or early 60s wagon with really cool patina. Ford, Chevy or other. Not sure what it will be but I'll know it when I see it.

Cheers,
Ryan

[Bugzilla]

Congrats on getting it sold! Sounds like its headed out my way. Maybe I will see it around one day.