So, how bad did I just hose myself? P-valve and lines above master (pic)

[redmist]

So I spend all this time hand bending lines, and get things all mocked in and then realize I may have hosed myself when it comes time to bleed the brakes. I mounted my proportioning valve above my master by about 4 inches, and all the lines run to it.

Is this going to create a problem down the road? I will be using a Motive pressure bleeder when the time comes. I guess I could crack each line individually to get the trapped air out of the system, or will I be ok, and it will just push through?

thoughts?


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/IMAG0809_zpsxkcred3k-1.jpg

[IMPALAMAN1]

Interesting.... Curious my self... But consider the old cars with the booster under the floor. At the rear end line it would be about the same distance above the master before the line drops to the rearend

[68Cuda440]

I would be inclined to believe the air would like to collect up there, especially if there is a pocket or dead leg. Any reason you can't put it on the inner fender behind the shock tower.

[icemanrd19]

use the art morrison bracket that i used.

[redmist]

I would be inclined to believe the air would like to collect up there, especially if there is a pocket or dead leg. Any reason you can't put it on the inner fender behind the shock tower.

Not enough room there, I still have the starter relay there.

I wonder if residual valves are just needed? It's a lot of work to move it now, I might give it a try first.

*Sigh*

[Skip Fix]

My Longacre brake pressure gauges came with a T fitting and bleeder set above the gauge. Wilwood bleeder setups I think are 1/8 NPT you could add one of them at the top of each line.

[redmist]

Thanks for the ideas folks.

I think I may be able to A. Run or fab a bracket like noted above, and get the valve under the master. (Looks like some existing lines can be bent to make that run)

Or B. Bleed the system, and crack open each top fitting under pressure to release any trapped air.


I wish there was a Wilwood rep here! I am sure they could respond?

[AMC Racer]

That will be tough to make work. Wilwood has a handy bracket and tube kit to mount their combo valve directly to the master if there's room ... but if you hadn't already bought their combo valve, just a proportioning valve in-line to the rear and mounted at the console would be more useful for tuning while driving.

Bracket kit:
http://www.wilwood.com/Search/PartNoSearch.aspx?q=220-13189

Can see it mounted here:
http://www.wilwood.com/Images/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinder_Photos-Large/tandem_master_kit_w_bracket-lg.jpg

Hope this helps.

[icemanrd19]

buy the art morrison bracket that i have and then you can angle your lines under the master cylinder.

[Motorcitydak]

The small size of the brake lines and the relatively high speed fluid travels when bleeding makes really any pocket of air difficult to stay put. In your case I would just recommend the old fashioned way of pumping the brake pedal with another person at each corner cracking the bleeder, that will give your fluid a higher velocity coming out and keep any air moving and on the way out. Nice job on the install BTW, looks really clean

[Apogee]

While maybe not ideal, I wouldn't assume there's an issue until you bleed the system. There are several OE applications that I can think of where the hard lines are routed up and over the booster along the firewall to the passenger side rather than under the engine along the crossmember, so give it a shot IMO.

FWIW, I would remove the pressure switch and replace it with an 1/8" NPT plug if you're not planning on using it for anything. It would clean things up further and remove a potential failure point for the system.

Tobin
KORE3