FRS6 - An Audi RS6 hidden under a 1950 F1 truck [Archive]

Max Power

02-05-2016, 09:24 PM

Hi all,

I've been lurking around here for quite some time. I love the ideas and concepts you guys come up with and I love taking things on myself like many here. A build of my own, something right out there, has always had me interested. And while I have one long term project on the go, a 69 Mach 1 428CJ Mustang, another build was just a dream until after that one was complete. Which mind you is waaay off! That was until I put an offer one night, after a few drinks, on a 1950 F1 cab. As pleased as my wife was to hear about it, I won the cab and had to hide my tail between my legs when returning home with it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/2_zpsez1aw6ph-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/4_zpsvmfqhprd-1.jpg

The toe boards have some cancer but the rear is very solid and the rest is great too. I had no idea what I was going to do with it but tuck it to the side until the time came along.
After speaking with my engineer, he wanted an independent chassis to mount it onto so I kept my eyes out. Ended up finding a 1981 Bronco chassis about 6 hours from me for the right price so went and collected it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/20160128_155734_zpstn5tjm4p-1.jpg

I still had no idea which direction to go with it I but wanted something very different to the norm. Definitely no GM stuff (sorry GM guys) and I didn't want to do a mod motor even though they are quite reasonably priced here now and easy to find. I'm building a stroked 462 with EFI for my 69 Mustang so didn't want anything similar to it either as that itch is already going to be scratched with that car.
I had been keeping my eye on damaged Euro cars as they sell for a very reasonable price and have some amazing motors under the hood. I almost bought a couple of V8 and a V12 AMG Mercs but they ended up just a tad over the depth of my pocket. A couple of weeks ago though I scored this, a lightly damaged 2003 Audi RS6 with the twin turbo V8 and quattro. These things were $219k new here in Australia! I nearly fell over when I found that out.
I got it home, all the critical stuff is still perfect. I haven't driven it yet as it needs the radiator replaced but I will get to that once I can find one. Not having a lot of luck there so may have to get a custom one. I'm really looking forward to taking it for a run though. The power to weight is pretty impressive.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/20160122_155736_zpsmgmcjqel-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/20160122_155802_zpshy2quvux-1.jpg

At this point my idea is to use all the driveline, suspension and HUGE brakes from the Audi and leave the cab as is, no new paint. Build a timber tray back out of old timber boards and perhaps just an old grill off something with an open bonnet, that old 30's rod kind of look. I'd like it to still look like an old beaten up truck that has been sitting in the paddock for the last 65 years but pretty much the ultimate off the shelf sleeper underneath. I wont be modding the engine and will use the electronics standard to avoid any possible headaches. This is a low budget build, the 69 Mustang has well and truly taken car of my desire to spend big on more cars.
I thought badging it FRS6, use the RS6 badges with an old ford F badge in front. I thought that was fitting.

Not a huge amount of info out there on these things as they appear to be quite rare. And I haven't really seen much in the way of people using the drivelines other than the guy on here putting an Audi V8 into a Porsche. I am new to Euro stuff but play with Ford stuff all the time. I'm hoping this idea will work, I have an appointment with the engineer next week to discuss a build plan. Our registration rules here are pretty complex compared to you US guys so I have to keep on the happy side of the rule book.
Anyway, am looking forward to this. It'll be slow but it's already got my mind running wild at night.

Cheers,
Ash

Godbolt

02-05-2016, 10:49 PM

Awesome idea! Love it. Keen to see where this goes.

With the radiator, I'd be getting in touch with PWR. They do great work.

Max Power

02-05-2016, 10:58 PM

Thanks, Godbolt! I love seeing the updates on your build, it's amazing work!

I'm hoping with the rad I can use a standard V8 unit and have the tanks swapped around from mine to it. My right side plastic tank is split.
Mine has an extra outlet for the turbo lines, lower left side, which unfortunately appears to be different to the US models otherwise I would get one from there. I'm going to have to make a trip to Sydney for the day and visit some wreckers with my rad in hand to compare.

twosaturns

02-06-2016, 03:34 AM

looks like a great project, I like your ideas!

German stuff is complex, unnecessarily so, and they use a LOT of plastic in stupid places (though everyone is using plastic rad ends now, smh). I've been messing with an '04 BMW, and there are SO many small parts, o-rings and things that wear out it's ridiculous. just chasing down the cause of a check engine light can give you fits!
not to dissuade you from the Audi, but they are maintenance nightmares. you'll need to find a good alternate source for parts besides the dealer. here in the states I use FCP Euro and ECS Tuning.

hope it all goes well!

T_Raven

02-06-2016, 06:06 AM

Definitely different. I'll like Audi stuff, I'll be interested to see how you put it together.

Interceptor5588

02-06-2016, 06:45 AM

That RS6 is a monster, keep the weight and CG down and you will have a blast

TimMC

02-07-2016, 07:09 PM

this is a watcher.

injcted

02-08-2016, 05:47 AM

Subscribed!!!!!

E.rodz

02-08-2016, 10:29 AM

are you taking anything for your ADD.? lol cool concept indeed! i thnk if this is the direction your going to go you can pitch the frame and just start from scratch. hope you have a great electric guy cause your going to need it! can't wait to see how this plays out.

brawls43

02-08-2016, 11:22 AM

I love Ford trucks, can't wait to see this!

BMR Sales

02-08-2016, 02:09 PM

This could be Amazing! I would change the name though - to me an FRS is a Toyota!

brawls43

02-08-2016, 02:13 PM

Maybe track down a badge from a 1950 F-6

Max Power

02-09-2016, 03:01 PM

Sorry guys, I didn't get an email notification for the new posts. But thanks for the replies!

looks like a great project, I like your ideas!

German stuff is complex, unnecessarily so, and they use a LOT of plastic in stupid places (though everyone is using plastic rad ends now, smh). I've been messing with an '04 BMW, and there are SO many small parts, o-rings and things that wear out it's ridiculous. just chasing down the cause of a check engine light can give you fits!
not to dissuade you from the Audi, but they are maintenance nightmares. you'll need to find a good alternate source for parts besides the dealer. here in the states I use FCP Euro and ECS Tuning.

hope it all goes well!

That's all good to find an alternate dealer. I rarely buy things in Aus anyway due to price. I'm happy to wait the week and have things sent from overseas. Living rural I don't have anything close by anyway.

And yep, lots of plastic! But lots of alloy in this thing too. Even the bumper supports were machined alloy.

i thnk if this is the direction your going to go you can pitch the frame and just start from scratch. hope you have a great electric guy cause your going to need it! can't wait to see how this plays out.

I agree, ditching the frame would be the go but I can't due to the pain the butt rules we have here. The car has to be built around the frame VIN. So with this frame being a 1981, I have to comply with 1981 regulations for registration. If I were to build a new frame, it would need to comply with todays regulations. And screw trying to do that to try and keep them happy. I'll find out next week just how much I can change this frame and what I can exactly do.
I was hoping to use the cabs VIN but unless I got my hands on an F1 frame, that wont work.

This Bronco frame will stronger compared to an F1 frame, that's if I could find one. Plus its in pretty solid condition. It's also very close to the wheelbase of the Audi, about 100mm difference.

This could be Amazing! I would change the name though - to me an FRS is a Toyota!

I had to Google what an FRS Toyota was, haha. I don't think I'm too worried about upsetting those guys. Or ladies.

How about F-RS6, put a dash between the new and old badges?

Maybe track down a badge from a 1950 F-6

Definitely something old, preferably ugly too. I love it!

wfo guy

02-09-2016, 05:38 PM

I need to go check my spare parts stash. I may have the emblems from the hood of a F6. Mine would be from a 51 though.

Max Power

02-09-2016, 06:21 PM

That'd be great thanks, wfo. Post a pic if you find anything. Cheers

wfo guy

02-11-2016, 03:19 PM

The shiny is real good. The dirty one needs dent repair.

Max Power

02-11-2016, 03:24 PM

Thanks for going to the effort there, wfo. Much appreciated. I was not familiar with the style though and unfortunately that is not what I had in mind. I think I'll chase down a small "F", a similar size to the RS6 badge which is quite little.
But thanks again!

brawls43

02-11-2016, 06:19 PM

Something like this was what I meant, and maybe get tricky and sneak in an RS, maybe 3D print something for a custom emblem.

123861

chevyz240

02-12-2016, 08:35 AM

Veeeerrrrry cool project! Good luck! I had some thoughts about putting my -64 Chevy C10 longbed body over the chassis of a BMW 740 E38, but I decided I had another project that I was already in over my head on!

123871

Tig

02-12-2016, 03:26 PM

Awesome and out of the box, I love it.
You're lucky to get RS6s I'm pretty sure they are one of the few that don't come state side.

subd

Max Power

02-13-2016, 02:14 PM

Sorry guys, I seem to get email notifications one time and not the next.

Something like this was what I meant, and maybe get tricky and sneak in an RS, maybe 3D print something for a custom emblem.

I like the "F" and the dash, that's kind of what I had in mind. That in front of the Audi badge.

Veeeerrrrry cool project! Good luck! I had some thoughts about putting my -64 Chevy C10 longbed body over the chassis of a BMW 740 E38, but I decided I had another project that I was already in over my head on!

Yeah I have one of those other projects too, ha! I can't help myself. I'm shocker for it.

EDIT: I remember reading your build thread now on your other car. That is one serious build you are doing there. Well one!

Awesome and out of the box, I love it.
You're lucky to get RS6s I'm pretty sure they are one of the few that don't come state side.

I found I can get an RS6 radiator out of the US but the cooling system is different to ours. Looks like we got higher temp package that included water cooling for the turbos. Which means there is a 3rd hose fitting on the radiator. Which is a shame as the US radiators are readily available and a decent price.
So you guys must have had this model RS6 available. Do you know if you got that next model, the twin turbo V10?

xsboost90

02-13-2016, 04:02 PM

really you could just cap the extra fitting- shouldnt see more than what 15lbs

01blacks4

02-13-2016, 05:32 PM

we did not get the RS6 here in the us, the one you have is the C6 chassis, RS6, we only got the S6 of that chassis... the rad you prolly found was from the older B5 chassis RS6...and no, it wont work.

We did not get the turbo v10 but did get the V10 s6, I have one :) same motor as the lambo Gallardo...which I have also...and have had 5-6 of the twin turbo audis in the past...

anyway, great project...don't listen to peeps say they need excessive maintenance...they don't need anymore that anything else...just can be harder to find parts...

ANY of the biturbo V8 engines from that generation will use a similar rad...maybe not for mounting but the cooling requirements... it will help if you expand your search.

Max Power

02-13-2016, 06:09 PM

That's very helpful, thank you!

I nearly pulled the trigger on buying the US rad to have it modified. Glad I didn't.

I'm off to the rad shop on Tuesday, hopefully we can come up with a solution then.

And very impressive collection of cars you have there. Bloody nice!!

Max Power

11-24-2017, 04:58 PM

Well, it's been a long time since I've both logged on here or done anything about this car. I wanted to get further along with my 69 Mustang resto before starting this but after the last month that has passed, it has prompted me to pull my finger out on this and get stuck into it. I won't bore everyone with the details but I'll say that life is too short and it can all be taken away within moments. Life should be filled with enjoyment, so I'm going to concentrate more on that aspect.

So here we go, I gave her a tub, took it for a bit of a spin before putting it on my hoist and removing the drive train.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/CFI81MC-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/MM8myIh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/dAM3Q9d-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/HWUcgqY-1.jpg

And out it comes. It's a beast.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/up8ycon-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/y7KQtg1-1.jpg

And the diff. I was amazed how low the profile of it is.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/vaZ1dtT-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/PNZTB2J-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/GMorejv-1.jpg

Max Power

11-24-2017, 05:06 PM

Next up I made a jig off all of the mounting points for the diff, engine cradle, tail shaft, power steering rack and shock towers. I simply tacked together scrap steel I had about the place to do this.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/ImtGgfR-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/UviryK8-1.jpg

I then got a mate to help me lift the Bronco chassis onto the jig.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/xUwZA9s-1.jpg

after which we both stood back and laughed in shock at how well it lined up with the required mounting points and how level it sat.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/bk7U3uS-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/79CF19E-1.jpg

The RS6 has a factory fitted shock tower brace so I've sat that into position.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/AT9CevZ-1.jpg

I'm now up to cutting out the excess from the Bronco chassis that will not be needed or is in the way. After the Bronco shock towers were removed, I was able to align the chassis to where I wanted it and welded it to the jig.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/JFVoZII-1.jpg

Stealth 69

11-24-2017, 08:27 PM

I'm loving this build - did you say you'll keep the AWD? .. Mad not to.
Well done on scoring the high-end donor car - it'll make for an absolute weapon, and ultimate sleeper at that

Max Power

11-24-2017, 09:02 PM

Cheers!

Yep, the complete driveline is staying stock. So the AWD is staying.
I think it'll be hilarious driving around when it's done. No one is going to expect what's under it. And I'm not sure what any Audi dealership will think if I ask them to look at it.

Peter Mc Mahon

11-25-2017, 06:01 AM

What is the wms to wms width of the rear end? Crazy how compact that is.

jlcustomz

11-25-2017, 07:59 AM

Definitely an easier said than done project. This type of project takes a little bit of not caring;;;; not caring that stuff doesn't just fit into place, not caring if anyone doubts you, etc.

From my experience having something a little different, if your work is good, taking it to a dealership should catch their interest & stop employees in their tracks.

The one area I'd consider scary is all the factory wiring & one stupid little thing like an unneeded body sensor type part keeping the whole mess from working.

Definitely will be following this one.

Just a dumb thought, if you could work out the design, incorporating the rear diffusor & exhaust locations into a custom bumper or something from scratch to look like it may look pretty cool.

Max Power

11-25-2017, 06:13 PM

What is the wms to wms width of the rear end? Crazy how compact that is.

What are you referring to with "wms"?

Me too, it's so tiny and light!

Definitely an easier said than done project. This type of project takes a little bit of not caring;;;; not caring that stuff doesn't just fit into place, not caring if anyone doubts you, etc.

From my experience having something a little different, if your work is good, taking it to a dealership should catch their interest & stop employees in their tracks.

The one area I'd consider scary is all the factory wiring & one stupid little thing like an unneeded body sensor type part keeping the whole mess from working.

Definitely will be following this one.

Just a dumb thought, if you could work out the design, incorporating the rear diffusor & exhaust locations into a custom bumper or something from scratch to look like it may look pretty cool.

I like the way you put that, not caring. Not caring what others think is something I do well. haha
This will definitely be something different. It'll create all kinds of different opinions I am sure.

I spent quite a bit of time earlier in the year building another Audi, nothing special, just a body swap on an A3, but I ran into all kinds of electrical issues. I managed to work through them and I learned a great deal about Audi's in the process. This project will be far easier in comparison as I'm only unplugging and plugging back together. Then I'll reduce the excess. The previous Audi was a blend of two engine variations and a lot of rewiring was required. And you are not wrong, one wrong sensor or fault and all kinds of issues arise.

I'm just going to build a simple flat bed for the back. I don't have an original tub and I want to go with a timber slat bed instead. So there won't really be a rear bumper of any sort.

Peter Mc Mahon

11-25-2017, 07:03 PM

Wheel mounting surface

Max Power

11-25-2017, 08:25 PM

Wheel mounting surface

Ah sweet. I measured 1640mm.

Joshdub

11-25-2017, 11:42 PM

I'm an Audi guy myself and this thing will be bad ass.

Fwiw, that is a C5 chassis, not a C6, and we did get those in the US. So it shouldn't be surprising to find used rs6 parts stateside.

jlcustomz

11-26-2017, 08:42 AM

So true on wiring if you've had to piece something together, then a whole complete system is simple by comparison to your previous learning experience. Been there, done that with efi engine swaps.

So, just wondering what your plans are for the truck exterior theme, totally old stock looking or a little hot rod resto mod looking?? I saw one truck with a cab body drop & fat wheels on a 1950 ford truck google images search that looked pretty cool if you'd be going that route. Your Audi wheels would probably look good with that theme. What about interior, old style or audi luxury?
https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1607&bih=767&ei=QuwaWq2GEMmD_Qamx5xA&q=1950+ford+truck&oq=195&gs_l=img.1.0.35i39k1j0l9.2464.3773.0.6887.4.4.0.0. 0.0.109.293.2j1.3.0....0...1ac.1.64.img..1.3.292.0 ...0.bXFCjpK5u7k#imgdii=3Zmq0KS0flOsrM:&imgrc=NpGI5c9S5CqUDM:

On the fabrication aspect, first thought would be that something like an Audi would be a more difficult choice to use all the important parts from. But from the pictures, the rear IRS unit in particular, looks easier to swap into something else than lets say GM products.

67SSDan

11-26-2017, 12:31 PM

This kicks ass. Saw it several months back when you started the thread and am happy to see you chipping away at it. Should be cool when you get it done!

Dan

Max Power

11-26-2017, 01:29 PM

I'm an Audi guy myself and this thing will be bad ass.

Fwiw, that is a C5 chassis, not a C6, and we did get those in the US. So it shouldn't be surprising to find used rs6 parts stateside.

I have seen some RS6 parts on the US eBay. And the prices aren't too bad compared to the UK or here in Aus. They pretty much don't exist here in Aus.

So true on wiring if you've had to piece something together, then a whole complete system is simple by comparison to your previous learning experience. Been there, done that with efi engine swaps.

So, just wondering what your plans are for the truck exterior theme, totally old stock looking or a little hot rod resto mod looking?? I saw one truck with a cab body drop & fat wheels on a 1950 ford truck google images search that looked pretty cool if you'd be going that route. Your Audi wheels would probably look good with that theme. What about interior, old style or audi luxury?
https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1607&bih=767&ei=QuwaWq2GEMmD_Qamx5xA&q=1950+ford+truck&oq=195&gs_l=img.1.0.35i39k1j0l9.2464.3773.0.6887.4.4.0.0. 0.0.109.293.2j1.3.0....0...1ac.1.64.img..1.3.292.0 ...0.bXFCjpK5u7k#imgdii=3Zmq0KS0flOsrM:&imgrc=NpGI5c9S5CqUDM:

On the fabrication aspect, first thought would be that something like an Audi would be a more difficult choice to use all the important parts from. But from the pictures, the rear IRS unit in particular, looks easier to swap into something else than lets say GM products.

Exterior I will be leaving the cab and front end as is. No paint, no changes. I'm hoping to get away with even leaving the rust holes in the bottoms of the fenders. But they may have to be chopped yet. I really want it to look like it just got dragged out of the paddock or barn. That way it'll be even more of a shock to what is underneath it.
I'm expecting I'll have to do a body drop too. It will all depend on where the front fenders line up to the front wheels. That will decide the location of everything body wise.

That truck you found is very different to most but I don't mind it. My original plan when I only had a cab was to go with a look like that and have open wheels. But you are not allowed to do that here in Aus. They have to be covered in some way. Then I scored this front clip for steal and it matches the colouring of the cab perfectly.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/tKNqARJ-1.jpg

Interior wise I'm hoping to use the rear Recaro seat from the Audi. It fits in width wise and I'd like to make it a 3 seater so my kids can fit in with me. I'll also use the Audi steering column and dash cluster. Mainly because they are both required to run the electronics of the car. And also less re-engineering needed, just modify and fit.

I agree on the fabrication aspect too. When I really started to work out what I needed to do, it appeared it was going to be easier than expected. And now with the chassis on the jig, it's looking even easier again. It's scary how well it is working out.

This kicks ass. Saw it several months back when you started the thread and am happy to see you chipping away at it. Should be cool when you get it done!

Dan

Cheers, Dan!

Wraith

11-26-2017, 03:54 PM

The weirder, the better! I love the creative builds.

1sikride

11-26-2017, 04:07 PM

This is going on he awesome

Max Power

11-26-2017, 07:42 PM

Cheers, guys!

Angry

11-26-2017, 08:21 PM

Awspome build,..yep we got more work here in Aussie because of our rego laws,,,...
Is it easier to start with a chassis say Pre 74 ,..as you wont need to comply with a heap of ADRs...

I building a 64 F100 with Jag front suspension n modified F100 rear,.probably heading towards 3 or 4 link rear,..but I know my Engineer say, its Pre 74,..dont need that,...dont need that...

Im Also in the bush,..Riverina NSW,,so Im hearing your frustration about bits..

Keep Posting,,,,Subscribed now..

Al

Max Power

11-26-2017, 08:32 PM

Cheers, Al!

I was disappointed as my cab has a VIN plate for which I have the import papers. But that does not meet their requirements. I have to go by the VIN on the chassis. With it being an 81 model, there are more ADR's than like you say, earlier on. But the Bronco is classed as a commercial vehicle which therefore has only a handful of ADR's and restrictions to meet compared to a passenger vehicle of the same era. Most of them are just common sense stuff like lights, blinkers, wipers and etc. But I do have to install new seat belts and change the door locks. That's about it really.

I was happy that I found a Bronco chassis as its wheelbase is nearly the same as the Audi. I looked at a few other truck ones and also some F1 chassis but they either didn't suit or the F1 chassis were about 3-4k. I was not paying that. I got the Bronco chassis for $250.

Nice project you have! Do you have a build thread here on it?

I'm in the Hunter NSW area. You're in a nice spot down that way.

Max Power

11-27-2017, 02:53 AM

Most of the fat has been trimmed from the chassis now. I love my plasma cutter.
The second rear cross member will need to be either removed or moved backwards to allow room for the plastic fuel tank. I'm going to use the RS6 tank. It's quite an odd shape but it will actually slip in between the chassis rails at the top half of it and then slip under the rails for the lower front section.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/yytBCIi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/IXBG5XR-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/a4kzviy-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/g8tj4El-1.jpg

ryeguy2006a

11-27-2017, 05:25 AM

Very cool project.

brawls43

11-27-2017, 09:47 AM

This is looking awesome, glad you're getting back on it. For the seats, I think its going to be tough to fit the Audi front seats plus a 3rd seat. I'll be watching to see what you figure out, as I'm looking into 3rd seat options too. With being more of a cruiser truck, I think I'm going to go back to a bench seat in my 1950 F-1. I have a pair of buckets in it now, but I'm leaning towards using the 2nd row seat out of a 2014-ish Ford Explorer. Would even make it easy for me to mount the kids seat.

Max Power

11-27-2017, 01:43 PM

Cheers, guys!

Brawls, it'll be the rear Audi seat I'm looking to use for the 3 seat option. Here it it. They, like the fronts, are Recaro and are also heated.

You have a nice truck there too. I love the colour. And I know all about kids taking over all of your time. My youngest is now 8 so I've done more on my cars in the last 12 months I reckon than the many years before that.

Your e-brake setup is very interesting too. I hadn't seen that concept before. Is it basically just a tap to lock out the rear brake cylinders?

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/JtNZBjQ-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/ka7N21X-1.jpg

These are the fronts

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/Mh2wTHt-1.jpg

brawls43

11-27-2017, 02:03 PM

That's a nice looking back seat! I'll be interested to see how it tucks in, might have to look for one of those instead of the Explorer. Fronts remind me of the seat in my old SVT Ford Focus. Recaro seats are awesome. Love that even the rear seats are heated!

Yeah its essentially a line lock for the rear calipers. I saw that some Cobra kit cars used the setup, so I thought I'd give it a try. I had a center mounted e-brake but wanted to get rid of it in preparation for the bench seat, and I didn't really want another thing down under the dash. We'll see how it works.

Max Power

11-27-2017, 02:15 PM

Measuring the internal cab width and the seat base width, it'll fit. Once I get to the point of removing it and having a go at fitting, I'll know more. But for now I'll leave them in place to protect them.
They are very comfy and feel very nice.

Cool, I like it. I'll need to look into a space saving concept as well to use the bench seat. I'll need to get in touch with my engineer though and see if he is happy for a line lock to be used as an e-brake. We can't do things the way you guys can. Everything has to be inspected and approved, then signed off on. All for registration purposes.

brawls43

11-27-2017, 06:19 PM

jlcustomz

11-27-2017, 07:54 PM

Definitely an odd shaped fuel tank there. With all the engineering the factories put into these tanks it's a good thing to stick with them.

I was looking into electric e-brakes a few years ago. The e-stopp unit is pretty much a linear actuator in a box with a brake cable attached to it & a fancy controller. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/E-Stopp-Electric-Emergency-Brake-Kit,65217.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAjO_QBRC4ARIsAD2FsXNUz iGQ2qVwhXQcbz5piUOIJNK1Qz49jizRtIjNpMtpb3orFG0GMnA aAjkaEALw_wcB
Seen some other versions, but weren't quite as compact looking. My personal thought for an e-brake future upgrade for myself would be a 2nd set of disc calipers on the rear with a long handle to a manual brake master cylinder. This would give me the rear brake hand control power of a drift car as well as being independent of a failure in the main braking system. https://www.google.com/search?q=hydraulic+rear+parking+brake+kit&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiusYaSyODXAhVFJCYKHULBA_kQ_AUICygC&biw=1607&bih=767#imgrc=HlqwJpVhXphkhM:
https://www.google.com/search?biw=1607&bih=767&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=TPkcWpuIKcSGmQGy4JKoBw&q=twin+caliper+rear+disc+brake&oq=twin+caliper+rear+disc+brake&gs_l=psy-ab.12...0.0.1.81.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0....0...1c..6 4.psy-ab..0.0.0....0.jhjjEkLn4P4#imgrc=XPJUUMZ1Up-dSM:
My current el camino e-brake handle is a unit from Pontiac fieros, which I fit between the bench seat & door, which is another diy mounting location that could work for you possibly with the factory unit..

Max Power

11-28-2017, 01:11 PM

That would be hard having to get everything approved. I've seen some other kits for electronic e-brake systems too. It looked interesting but expensive iirc, it was called E-Stopp. Mounts a module under the car/truck, where the cables y-split off. It has something internal that does the pull, you just push a button. Might be easier to get approved?

I'm on the look out for some of those seats now, can't wait to see you get them mounted.

That E-stopp system I have seen and by the time I get it here to Aus, it's about $700 AUD. Which is too much for what it is. I like the idea, but the price is too high.

I've thought about this conversion a bit with my 69 Mustang. I didn't want the factory foot lever. I looked into electric systems as my wife's VW had an electric park brake and it worked great. But the calipers they use are quite specific and were also expensive at the time. As JL says in the next post, it's basically an actuator with a fancy controller. Not a lot to it. Surely there could be something else utilised to do the same job.

Definitely an odd shaped fuel tank there. With all the engineering the factories put into these tanks it's a good thing to stick with them.

I was looking into electric e-brakes a few years ago. The e-stopp unit is pretty much a linear actuator in a box with a brake cable attached to it & a fancy controller. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/E-Stopp-Electric-Emergency-Brake-Kit,65217.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAjO_QBRC4ARIsAD2FsXNUz iGQ2qVwhXQcbz5piUOIJNK1Qz49jizRtIjNpMtpb3orFG0GMnA aAjkaEALw_wcB
Seen some other versions, but weren't quite as compact looking. My personal thought for an e-brake future upgrade for myself would be a 2nd set of disc calipers on the rear with a long handle to a manual brake master cylinder. This would give me the rear brake hand control power of a drift car as well as being independent of a failure in the main braking system. https://www.google.com/search?q=hydraulic+rear+parking+brake+kit&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiusYaSyODXAhVFJCYKHULBA_kQ_AUICygC&biw=1607&bih=767#imgrc=HlqwJpVhXphkhM:
https://www.google.com/search?biw=1607&bih=767&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=TPkcWpuIKcSGmQGy4JKoBw&q=twin+caliper+rear+disc+brake&oq=twin+caliper+rear+disc+brake&gs_l=psy-ab.12...0.0.1.81.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0....0...1c..6 4.psy-ab..0.0.0....0.jhjjEkLn4P4#imgrc=XPJUUMZ1Up-dSM:
My current el camino e-brake handle is a unit from Pontiac fieros, which I fit between the bench seat & door, which is another diy mounting location that could work for you possibly with the factory unit..

I like the second caliper idea, I've seen this done a bit. I saw a new McLaren on the weekend with this very setup. Or at least I assume that's what the smaller second caliper was doing.
That's a neat little unit in that google image. It's quite compact. Nice.

I'm about to do a 3rd seat conversion using this parts car for my wife's Falcon ute. It too uses a side mounted lever. I'm not sure if I'll have the space for something like this in the F1 cab. But if I do, this would be a very easy solution as it already uses a single into two line junction for the cable, just like the Audi does.
This will look odd to you over the pond guys with it being on this side of the seat but it's the same concept.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/Uap1Qwh-1.jpg

Max Power

11-28-2017, 07:25 PM

This is where I am up to as of now. I cut most of the pieces out for this side of the diff mount yesterday. I cut out the clearance for the shock top this morning and have tacked it all together. There will be more gussets on the other/under side but I need to mount the fuel tank first as I think it will be close for clearance.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/RnhMFUu-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/hgjzR9M-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/TqhtGFl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/B5kEwbc-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/gwL1fih-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/b0P2Ur0-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/ISYjP2f-1.jpg

Angry

11-29-2017, 06:55 AM

I havent done a build thread, I should I suppose....
Got pleany of pics,...
Was thinking about a Gen1 Camaro footbrake for E Brake,,..mounts up under dash
This ones really only gonna be a parts hauler n cruiser,,,mY 69 Camaro is the muscle

Max Power

11-29-2017, 02:44 PM

I'm not too familiar with Camaro's. I'm thinking it might be similar to the set-up in my 69 Mustang?

I like that, keep your 69 as the tough one to drive. This is the muscle I've built/building for my 69. Stroked 462ci Cobra Jet.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/JZfEd1X-1.jpg

Max Power

11-29-2017, 05:59 PM

I've touched base with the engineer and the 6th of Feb at 10am is the earliest I can see him for him to do an inspection before welding everything up tight. Which gives me plenty of time to turn up to see him with a mocked up assembly on my car trailer.

Max Power

12-03-2017, 04:09 PM

Both sides for the diff mounts are now done.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/dTjvuiK-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/vRUswsH-1.jpg

Then I started on the rear engine cradle mounts

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/KK7s5IX-1.jpg

I haven't finished welding it but it is getting there. I welded up more than I had initially anticipated but as it was quite fiddly, I just kept going. I'll still only tack it to the chassis.
I'm still a novice at TIG but like always, the more you do it the more you learn.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/xo3K0xq-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/YbCGsmE-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/MprDO89-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/GjWohbd-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/C5vg1pB-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/pETManr-1.jpg

JRANGER

12-04-2017, 07:27 AM

Wow this looks like its going to be an awesome build

NoNo

12-04-2017, 07:57 AM

I'd like to be as novice as you at TIG welding... looking good !

I'll follow this build thoroughly

Max Power

12-04-2017, 01:42 PM

Thanks guys!

Motown 454

12-05-2017, 03:53 PM

Great work. I just picked up an E Stopp from the parts section on Lat-g. Keep the updates coming.

tterbo

12-07-2017, 02:00 PM

This is awesome! Subscribed....

MrBlonde

12-07-2017, 04:16 PM

F&&k yeah! Love to see this thread, can't believe I haven't seen it until today. I'm based in Newcastle so it's good to know there are other pro touring enthusiasts nearby.

Max Power

12-07-2017, 09:04 PM

Thanks guys!

I'm based in Newcastle

I'm not too far from you. Hopefully next year you'll see it on the streets. My parents are in Speers Point so I get down that way every so often.

Max Power

12-08-2017, 12:31 AM

The tops of the shock mounts are stepped, by 35mm.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/Z3AOE1F-1.jpg

and they a 16mm step around the thread to locate them into position. I started out with some 5mm plate and drilled a 16mm hole.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/kuH6NRW-1.jpg

To bring the two inner bolt locations up to be on the same plane as the outer bolt, I thought I'd make a 35mm spacer from some 25mm stock that I had with a piece of 5mm plate either side. Here's one set cut out on the right and another set welded up on the left.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/EloATVf-1.jpg

Both sets now welded and one set smoothed down.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/OUbrhF2-1.jpg

Here they are in place. Next step is top make the top plate to join all three.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/NHk0aBH-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/JzlIE9q-1.jpg

ryeguy2006a

12-08-2017, 05:09 AM

Are you telling me that there isn't any company out there that makes an Audi RS6 to 1950 Ford rear IRS adapter plates?? What is this hot rod world that we live in coming to, haha.

In all seriousness, this build is incredibly well executed and you fabrication skills are top notch. I love tuning in for progress updates.

Motown 454

12-08-2017, 09:38 AM

Are you telling me that there isn't any company out there that makes an Audi RS6 to 1950 Ford rear IRS adapter plates?? What is this hot rod world that we live in coming to, haha

Ryan, I love it ! and I agree nice work.

FormTA

12-08-2017, 12:45 PM

I have been lurking for years and this is the thread that made me have to register... I do have a soft spot for the F1 as I have 51 and have been collecting parts for it. Your skills are top notch!

jlcustomz

12-08-2017, 08:41 PM

Coming along nicely mate. My thoughts on tig welding unless it's something you need to show off a perfect nonstop row of penny's on, all that doesn't really matter. You look to have good penetration & a stronger weld than mig could have gave you, so what more is needed than that. Looks plenty good enough.
I'm stuck at home for a few days after having hernia surgery today, so I might try to do you one of my pencil drawings I do once in a while. that's really why I asked about you style direction.

So just a flatbed? Statebody siderails?? Your audi wheels? Slightly low ride height with just a little rake (back higher than front)? I'm not a super practiced Chip Foose, but I'm not too bad for the little practice I do. Not as good as some computer or marker & airbrushed over drawing , but ok.

Max Power

12-09-2017, 02:02 PM

Thanks for the kind comments, guys. I appreciate it! I'm always learning as I go so it's great to hear positive feedback. And if you guys find the shop that sells RS6 to F1 adapter kits, point me in the direction. Haha, I love it!

Sorry to hear that you've had some health issues, JL. My Dad is due to have some very similar surgery next month. Hopefully yours went well and that you are back on your feet soon.
That would be cool to see your ideas put on paper. Yes, just a flatbed and I'm not sure on any details until I gather materials later. I'm wanting to use weathered timber boards, like something from an old barn, not cracking and falling to pieces but grey and showing its age. I still want the tray to be usable but I want it to look old like the cab and front.
It will definitely be low, it's just the nature of the RS6 setup. From what I can work out, as you see it sitting on the jig, the chassis will be about 150mm or 6 inches lower once it's on its wheels. And it will sit level. If I have to drop the cab over the chassis, I expect I will, so that the wheels sit nicely in the wheel arches, then so be it.
I'd like to find some sidebaords but that may be tricky. I'll keep my eye out but I wont be paying the silly money that some people are chasing.
And yes, I will be using the RS6 wheels. They need to be that big to fit over the brakes. They are not an offensive looking rim, quite subtle I think for a modern alloy. But I had an idea that maybe at a later date I could have them painted in a patina to match the cab. I've got a mate that owns a brewery and he had this drum painted to use as his OPEN sign. I think it looks great and it was all painted, it was a shiny blue drum beforehand. It's the same colour as my truck parts too.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/65ZunvY-1.jpg

I'm interested to see your interpretation of what I can see in my mind. I"m not an artistic guy, I struggle to get my ideas on paper, so I look forward to it. Cheers!

jlcustomz

12-10-2017, 04:31 AM

Here's a link to a truck with pretty similar patina to your parts & probably a similar stance. Its the farm truck one.
http://www.trucktrend.com/cool-trucks/0809tr-1950-ford-f1-custom-truck/

Got you a drawing done this morning while I couldn't sleep. Combined thoughts from several pictures I pulled up online. Kinda just did what I thought would look cool & that you could fab up from what I've seen so far of your skills. Pencil drawings don't give you all the detail that I see in my head so I'll explain some. For running boards, I pictured using 3" round pipe for the outer edges with radiused bent ends. You could lay flat metal on top of them. The flatbed itself will be wider than your wheels & angle back in to meet the cab width 8 to 12" from the front . Rather than an ugly open frame under the bed I drew a rectangular metal framework with heavy gauge sheet metal in between. Wheel opening is just a cutout in the flat sheet metal. Possibly diamond plate steel. 2 rectangular running lights pictured. Drew a metal frame behind the cab which would protect cab from cargo. Drew 4 wood slats with the top 2 being shorter & angle cut based off a pic, just thought it looked cool. You really need a back bumper, so I'm picturing one being handmade from steel with a little curve like the Audi AND using the Audi bumper diffusor & exhaust tips , just like the original car. Drew your wheels in . Not sure about my proportioning of them & my wheel sketches are always a little shabby. Think your wheel color idea would be perfect.
I'll get the drawing posted later when I can see straight. Trying to get my flicker link to work, this photobucket site change this year got me screwed up. Have to take a camera pic of drawing to upload it.
EDIT, couldn't get into my flicker account, just tried google.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DXsMDrUz8AyXjakC2
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/38964967111_1a1dede9f7_k-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22ncDcM)20171210_114329 (https://flic.kr/p/22ncDcM) by joe leleux (https://www.flickr.com/photos/132029468@N08/), on Flickr

Max Power

12-11-2017, 12:52 PM

Cool! Thanks, Joe!

I had never thought of the slat bed sides. You've got that one ticking over in my mind.
I like the pipe idea for the side steps. That would be an easy way to fab them up. Wouldn't be hard either to scuff them up and get them to look weathered.
You're right about the stance on the truck in the link. That's pretty much how I think mine will sit. At first though I thought the wheels were photoshopped into the image. I don't like them on it. But I've never been a fan of those sort of wheels on any car.
There's definitely going to be a lot of empty space under the bed sides, in front of and behind the wheels. I'm not sure what I'll do there. I think that'll come once it starts getting built. Maybe a tool box or it could be a good way to hide the battery. The battery is rear mounted in the RS6 so that would not be hard to adapt.
I don't mind your concept with the bumper but I really want everything externally to look like old and ratty like it was dragged out of the paddock. I think it'll only be the wheels of the Audi that you see externally.
Great work, Joe. I like what you've done!
Cheers, Ash

jlcustomz

12-11-2017, 03:34 PM

brawls43

12-13-2017, 01:20 PM

Got messing around on an FRS6 logo for you. Had been mulling it awhile, and I think the font would work with either style, but it sort of depends on if you end up running the 1950 style logos or the 1951-2 style logos.

Idea: 146921

1950 Style
146922146923

1951-2 Style
146924146925

Max Power

12-13-2017, 04:27 PM

Glad to help. Some of my ideas come in somewhere between not being able to sleep & still able to hold my head up, which is when this was done. Figured you'd like the bed slats in the cut back way I did them, all full length looks like you stole a picket fence from an old house.
Figured you'd like the fill in under the bed. Just wasted ugly space if left open. Plenty of options on how to make it look & if functional boxes or just flat metal. Functional is good for a truck. The running board idea is just too easy & less work than if someone gave you some rusted originals to repair.
The rear bumper idea is more opinionated, but figured I'd throw it out there as just a hint of new poking through. I'll probably toss up some other ideas there. Could just have a rustic wood beam for the bumper & take a 2" round pipe, heat it up, & woodburn in the Audi symbol.
Here & there I might just give you links to pictures that may interest you, maybe just in a pm.

Feel free to shoot away with any ideas you may have. I always find it interesting hearing other people thoughts. And I'm not one to get upset about getting off track in a thread. If anything, I'm the one doing it. haha
There's a lot of old farms in my area so I may even stumble across some old tool boxes or army storage containers or something that would look cool under the bed sides. I'm still not sure how big the bed will be, I won't get a good idea until the cab is located into position. I'd really like to be able to carry my motorbike around. Even if it is angled corner to corner.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/5Bzr0R2-1.jpg

Got messing around on an FRS6 logo for you. Had been mulling it awhile, and I think the font would work with either style, but it sort of depends on if you end up running the 1950 style logos or the 1951-2 style logos.

I was thinking about this the other day too while doing something else. Our Falcon cars here have a very similar sized font to the front badge on the RS6. It just isn't slanted like the RS6 lettering is but it doesn't look too out of place.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/TkwFPOv-1.jpg

Here I just held the F into position with some bluetac to get an idea

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/02czYLz-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/6KFjnPv-1.jpg

The rear badges though are much larger

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/Y4hpNdd-1.jpg

I really don't mind the font and colour you have used in the rendering. I wonder if 3D printing that out in a similar coloured plastic would work?

brawls43

12-14-2017, 05:49 AM

Yeah, my idea for modeling it would be to 3D print it. If going with the 1950 style, I could add the 2 pegs to push it in, and connect the letters. 3D printing the 1952 style would be a lot more work, I think that trim is quite a bit longer. Some places can even print metal, and some can do partial metal, could be cool.

JRANGER

12-14-2017, 06:11 AM

brawls43

12-14-2017, 08:19 AM

3D prints can make molds if you want to cast it yourself too. Could do a brass casting then chrome it even. And yes, could transfer it to a .dxf file for cnc milling as well.

Max Power

12-14-2017, 02:11 PM

I think you guys have said it now, CNC. I have a mate that does CNC. Next time I catch up with him I'll have a chat.

I haven't done much in the last week as I had to repair the clutch in my daily driver and now since then it has been very hot. It was still 47°C here at around 6pm yesterday. Today is meant to be cooler so am hoping to get some more done.

FormTA

12-14-2017, 05:23 PM

It's snowing here! I had to put my plow on and clear a few driveways today. It's a balmy 15*F (-9C).

jlcustomz

12-14-2017, 05:33 PM

See no reason why you couldn't fit a bed long enough for the bike. I'm out of touch with modern bike dimensions, but even a 6' bed should be able to fit 2 of your bikes. One little thought I just had since you're likely to have a wood plank bed floor anyways is to design 1 board to clamp or lock into place & easily be pulled off & used as a ramp. That way you always have a ramp with you. Could also have a board hinge up sideways for under access if that could have a use.

On letters , if plastic chrome may suffice, there are plenty of decent universal aftermarket letters available. At local parts chain stores over here, pilot is one name brand , letters are about 1 1/4" tall, less than 2 dollars each in stock, so you may see something in your area.https://www.google.com/search?q=plastic+chrome+letters+cars&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjAn6Dz5YrYAhXBWSYKHSpCDyYQ_AUICygC&biw=1607&bih=766
CNC stainless or aluminum would be cool though. I refer to stainless as poor man's chrome as any good grade can be polished to mirror finish & stay looking that way.

A few googles for ya.
https://www.google.com/search?q=plastic+chrome+letters+cars&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjAn6Dz5YrYAhXBWSYKHSpCDyYQ_AUICygC&biw=1607&bih=766
https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&q=wood+truck+flatbed+side+rails&spell=1&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjbgafx6YrYAhXHNiYKHS2kDIkQvwUIPCgA&biw=1607&bih=766&dpr=0.85
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/245868460879375856/

JpRngr

12-14-2017, 09:00 PM

I think you should make the red part of your emblem into an "F". Shouldn't be too hard to make it look like it was meant to be. The "F" out in front of the emblem doesn't look right.

Awesome project, BTW.

Corey

Max Power

12-15-2017, 02:53 PM

It's snowing here! I had to put my plow on and clear a few driveways today. It's a balmy 15*F (-9C).

Want to swap? haha
I've seen snow a few times but never like that. This type of heat just drains you. Welding and grinding isn't that pleasant to do.

See no reason why you couldn't fit a bed long enough for the bike. I'm out of touch with modern bike dimensions, but even a 6' bed should be able to fit 2 of your bikes. One little thought I just had since you're likely to have a wood plank bed floor anyways is to design 1 board to clamp or lock into place & easily be pulled off & used as a ramp. That way you always have a ramp with you. Could also have a board hinge up sideways for under access if that could have a use.

On letters , if plastic chrome may suffice, there are plenty of decent universal aftermarket letters available. At local parts chain stores over here, pilot is one name brand , letters are about 1 1/4" tall, less than 2 dollars each in stock, so you may see something in your area.https://www.google.com/search?q=plastic+chrome+letters+cars&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjAn6Dz5YrYAhXBWSYKHSpCDyYQ_AUICygC&biw=1607&bih=766
CNC stainless or aluminum would be cool though. I refer to stainless as poor man's chrome as any good grade can be polished to mirror finish & stay looking that way.

A few googles for ya.
https://www.google.com/search?q=plastic+chrome+letters+cars&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjAn6Dz5YrYAhXBWSYKHSpCDyYQ_AUICygC&biw=1607&bih=766
https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&q=wood+truck+flatbed+side+rails&spell=1&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjbgafx6YrYAhXHNiYKHS2kDIkQvwUIPCgA&biw=1607&bih=766&dpr=0.85
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/245868460879375856/

With the supermoto wheels, my bike is about 2100mm long. So that I think is about 7'. Dirt wheels will make it longer again but a 6' bed would easily do the trick loading the bike corner to corner.
I like the idea of a hidden ramp. Would save having to load and carry another.

You guys are spoiled for choice when it comes to whats available locally. I live in a little country town with not a lot available. Even the larger parts stores elsewhere are just glorified oil and accessories stores. Typically if I ever want anything, I just buy it online. It's usually quicker to buy it from the US too then locally. I was shocked when I was in the US at how big your stores were and how cheap everything was. I went a little bit silly and had to buy some more luggage to carry stuff home in. haha

Something done in stainless would be quite nice. You could make it look old or polish it up like you said.

Here's a tray back/bed that I built some time ago. It had my business name in veneer on the head board. It didn't photograph as well as it looked in person, the lettering stood out a lot more. This is the kind of thing I had in mind initially when thinking about a bed for the F1. But older looking and chunkier.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/HZtH0kI-1.jpg

I think you should make the red part of your emblem into an "F". Shouldn't be too hard to make it look like it was meant to be. The "F" out in front of the emblem doesn't look right.

Awesome project, BTW.

Corey

I agree, Corey, it didn't look quite right. I was playing around with what I had but it answered my thoughts by doing so.

Thanks!

grendel

12-16-2017, 08:07 PM

Subscribing. This is my kind of build.

Max Power

12-22-2017, 03:27 AM

I've done a little bit here and there over the last week but not a lot at a time. The weather finally changed yesterday to being comfortable again. We had a string of days like this, it sucks.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/bkuOVrC-1.jpg

I got those spacers welded to some top plates, followed by completing the drilled holes. The plates will be trimmed down once I work out the sides.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/jTxHTGo-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/2006cvS-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/onHk94X-1.jpg

I had to trim down the locating bolts I used on the jig.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/BFpDJ4C-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/iTYbIt1-1.jpg

and sitting in position

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/wa4eK5k-1.jpg

Then it was a matter of repeating to duplicate one for the other side.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/fIbZb2m-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/uDP7Nak-1.jpg

This afternoon I cut some steel to make the power steering rack mount. All three mounting points are on different planes to each other.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/6lP44wu-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/Fkt6ggZ-1.jpg

and welded it up

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/dTmKs5i-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/eCbFIXb-1.jpg

With this made, I can now work on the cross brace that will support he power steering rack, tie into the top of the shock tower mounts and also the insides on the chassis rails.

Max Power

12-23-2017, 03:23 AM

Today I got the plate cut to size and tacked into position, it ties the shock tower tops to the chassis rails as well as supports the power steering rack.
The bottom side of it will get cut out for transmission clearance once everything is welded up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/aINMxK0-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/nnXIQ7R-1.jpg

Max Power

12-25-2017, 11:47 PM

Welded a plate to tie the shock tower to the rack mount on the left side. And finished welding up the rest. I fitted the rack so that I can now fab the rest of the shock tower to clear the rack.

Oh, and Merry Christmas everyone.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/BKiC0CX-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/BaS8hDW-1.jpg

jlcustomz

12-26-2017, 02:45 PM

Had to google what 48.5degrees celcius converted to here, 119.3 degrees faienheit. DAMN, hope that reading was off the pavement or vehicle metal & not the air.I should hope at least it's not damp heat like we have in florida here.
Any progress after that is good progress, cheers.
I'll be home almost another 2 weeks from my little surgery. If I get bored enough, I may draw a front/ side angle picture of a 50.

Max Power

12-26-2017, 03:17 PM

That's air temp and yep, humid too. Last year we had week on week of low and mid 50°C. It hasn't been that bad this year, thankfully.

Hope the recovery is going well for you.

craigF

12-27-2017, 01:00 AM

Great build. Will be following this.
Love the ideas from everyone on the forum.
Keep going it’s inspiring.

Max Power

12-27-2017, 03:39 AM

I did some CAD (cardboard aided design) work this arvo.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/sQwBH9V-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/277U8yV-1.jpg

It needed to clear the steering rack at all angles

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/UQia7TM-1.jpg

and best of all, the angle was by chance a perfect match to a previous cut. Woo hoo, winning! ha

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/Te8wlqw-1.jpg

test fitted

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/yppGZBA-1.jpg

perfect

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/kRraZG0-1.jpg

and tacked in place.
I'll leave this like this for now and once the engine and cab is in its place, I'll check everything clears and fab a similar plate for the inside of the rail each side and box them in.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/ZVexS6S-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/CGb7RJj-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/h7hCrUj-1.jpg

Max Power

12-27-2017, 03:41 AM

Great build. Will be following this.
Love the ideas from everyone on the forum.
Keep going it’s inspiring.

Cheers, Craig!

jlcustomz

12-27-2017, 08:25 AM

FormTA

12-27-2017, 02:07 PM

Nice! I see the plasma cutter so I assume you used that to cut out the design but what are you using to guide it, and your stop and starts must be perfect as I really can't see any evidence.

Max Power

12-27-2017, 04:26 PM

As much of a pain in the butt as it can be, I think I enjoy the engineering steps like what you're into right now as much as anything.
Probably need to give myself more credit now, didn't realize I was a cad design engineer all these years.:cheers: Working on a cad design myself right now. Started fitting a 2016 z-06 rear bumper to my 83 el camino last year, need to cut the upper portion out & fabricate it into a functioning tailgate which will require special hinging geometry. that's where the cad design comes in. :)

I agree, I'm enjoying this so much more than I have all the rust and previous owner dodgy workmanship repairs that I've had to do on my 69. Hence another reason why it's taking forever, the motivation comes and goes on it.

I usually work in my head then measure twice and cut once. Not always ideal though and at times causes a stuff up. A CAD template with a bunch of angles definitely makes life easier. It'll definitely help in your bumper project for sure.

Nice! I see the plasma cutter so I assume you used that to cut out the design but what are you using to guide it, and your stop and starts must be perfect as I really can't see any evidence.

Thanks!

No, I only used the plasma on the tighter inner curve where the grinder couldn't reach cleanly. I then cleaned in up with a flap disc.
I've been using these thin cut off wheels for all my cuts on a 4" grinder. They are brilliant. They are very thin, cut quickly and precisely and take ages to wear down. After all these cuts on this project, I've only just started using a 3rd disc. At about $3 each, they are great value.
After cutting it out, a quick sand again with a flap disc is all that is needed to clean the cut.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/6UsNNka-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/MptEJwZ-1.jpg

jlcustomz

12-27-2017, 10:29 PM

Yep, a lot of people don't realize how the basic grinder with the right wheels can do so much work. One of the best wheels I've seen around here are the CGW stainless quickie wheels (camel grinding wheels) which I like in 6". https://www.aaabrasives.com/cgw-45012-6-x-040-x-7-8-t1-za60-tb-flex-quickie One of the fastest & longest lasting I've tried. Huge difference over average wheels as zirconia is part of the abrasive, not just aluminum oxide. Not sure about that pferd wheel, but it's looks pretty damn serious too. https://www.pferdusa.com/products/206q/206q01/206q010202P.html
Also found that a little more money on a more powerful variable speed 4 1/2" grinder such as Bosch along with a full face shield is a good investment for someone serious. With the variable speed I can more safely use the 6" wheels & dial the speed back up as they get smaller.

Max Power

12-28-2017, 03:45 AM

I find with these wheels that no pressure is really applied. Just let the weight of the grinder do the work and guide it along. If you force it, the wheel loads up and chews down quicker than usual.
The steel supply place I use stocks these and I think they are the only ones that do as they tell me they sell a lot of them.
And you're right, money spent on good tools is money well spent in the long run.

Here's the progression of what I got up to today.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/qBNikYL-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/5IyYN9Z-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/DnRWwYf-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/B7fVk41-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/BYOwmz6-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/yCDHGP7-1.jpg

and with that done, that part of the jig could now be removed. I still have some welds to complete and some webbing to add. Plus that rear section going over the rack and down to the chassis will eventually be boxed but for now I will leave it at this until the cab is mounted.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/A0PHZeT-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/4wkm5Qg-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/5aKzuib-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/2ZSGJ8u-1.jpg

FormTA

12-28-2017, 09:59 AM

Thanks for the reply. I too use many grinders, one of which is dedicated to the slicer wheel. Your finished piece just looked so perfect. Thanks for the explanation.

Max Power

12-28-2017, 04:25 PM

My pleasure. And thanks for the compliment!

I did buy this little set of wheels for my plasma off ebay. It was less than $10. It did help to steady up my hand but getting it to arc was a bit of a pain. Even if I do get it to do a straight cut, it still needs a lot of cleaning with a flap disc. You also run the risk of slipping very easily and cutting inside your mark which then ruins it. I see some guys are quite good at it. I've only had limited use with mine. But it is a great tool for cutting up metal quickly.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/z4OOMiZ-1.jpg

67SSDan

12-28-2017, 07:00 PM

This is extremely fun to watch. Can't wait to see the cab on there!

Max Power

12-28-2017, 07:23 PM

Thanks, bald guy!

grendel

12-28-2017, 07:53 PM

I am not sure your newly added material is stout enough... you could've used .5" or something. :)

Max Power

12-28-2017, 08:08 PM

MrBlonde

01-01-2018, 11:27 PM

Max Power

01-02-2018, 02:25 PM

Fair enough. That one went over my head.

jlcustomz

01-03-2018, 09:58 AM

Z06killinSBF

01-03-2018, 10:27 AM

So you're cutting all that with an angle grinder? That has to take a while as I've cut a few things out of similar thickness and it makes a MESS. I'm loving this build, should be pretty cool when done

Max Power

01-03-2018, 09:37 PM

Yea that was a joke. though the Aus & US language is pretty close, definitely are a few differences that can make jokes hard to under stand & the metric/ English measuring systems do take a little thinking for many of us to understand the difference, making jokes harder to get.
While a lot of the new material used here may be thicker & heavier than it may need to be, engineering it in such a way to be lighter & stronger, such as more webbing with thinner metal and punched & flared holes for lightening if stiffening would just not be worth the effort for this build. probably 5 to 10 times more hours to do things that way. That being said, in actual truth, the finished truck probably won't weigh more than the original car did AND the added weight will be much lower to the center of gravity. Even though the sheetmetal skins of a 1950 truck are so much thicker than a modern car, they don't have the weight of all the crash bracing that newer cars have.
One thing is clear between any language barriers;;;; this is a cool & interesting build.

To be honest for the short time I was in the US, I struggled to communicate way more than I anticipated. Some of the accents for me were near impossible to understand. And my accent for some was the same. I visited Los Angeles and Louisiana. In some instances I've found when I've visited Asian countries it to be easier to communicate. Weird hey!

I think I'll be losing a lot of weight in the build compared to the stock Audi. At the moment two of us can easily lift the chassis. The same with the cab. The front end weighs nothing, I carry it around by myself easily. The driveline is mostly alloy. I think a 400-500kg shed of weight over the stock Audi is a not unrealistic. It's going to be very interesting when I get it on the scales.
Here's the specs on the Audi. I was looking for it's weight and thought I may as well post the whole image.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/UbfjUFs-1.jpg

So you're cutting all that with an angle grinder? That has to take a while as I've cut a few things out of similar thickness and it makes a MESS. I'm loving this build, should be pretty cool when done

Actually, no, it is very quick using these cutting blades. It would take longer to mark everything out then it would to make the cuts. And because they cut so cleanly, it only takes a second with a 60 grit flap disc to clean the cut.
Sure cutting them with a plasma may be quicker again but it's a messy cut and a much longer time cleaning it up.

Cheers! I'm loving it too. I'm nearly done duplicating the tower for the right side. Four more small pieces to go and it is done. Two more engine mounts and a drive shaft mount and then it is time to remove the jig and start mounting the drive line to have it back on its wheels.

67SSDan

01-04-2018, 03:59 AM

I think he's taking the piss mate.

Fair enough. That one went over my head.

To be honest for the short time I was in the US, I struggled to communicate way more than I anticipated. Some of the accents for me were near impossible to understand. And my accent for some was the same. I visited Los Angeles and Louisiana.

I don't know why, but this exchange cracked me up. I was in Australia this past November and ran into the same issues you describe above. Communicating was fine, but jokes and slang were totally lost on me. If it makes you feel any better though, I'm from the south, and I struggle to understand people from Louisiana!

Dan

brawls43

01-04-2018, 06:13 AM

I wish we used fun slang like how he used "taking a piss". Way more colorful. Or maybe its just because its different then saying someone was giving him ****. **** - piss, its all bathroom jokes I suppose!

grendel

01-04-2018, 06:19 AM

I had to convert what that was to metric, sorry, the imperial system is still mostly foreign to me. .5" comes in at 12.7mm. That's a big chunk of metal. I figure that what I am building is thicker than what the RS6 is built from and bigger than what my engineer stated I needed to use. His words were equal or bigger than standard, not less. Do you mean for the webbing on top of the shock tower or as a whole? The smallest material I have used is 4mm. Most of the RS6 is much thinner sheet steel.

I was teasing. :)

I think he's taking the piss mate.

You betcha.

I don't know why, but this exchange cracked me up. I was in Australia this past November and ran into the same issues you describe above. Communicating was fine, but jokes and slang were totally lost on me. If it makes you feel any better though, I'm from the south, and I struggle to understand people from Louisiana!

Dan

Agreed

I wish we used fun slang like how he used "taking a piss". Way more colorful. Or maybe its just because its different then saying someone was giving him ****. **** - piss, its all bathroom jokes I suppose!

English and Aussie slang is awesome. They get away with a lot of non-pc crap I wish I could here in the US :)

jlcustomz

01-04-2018, 12:34 PM

Max Power

01-04-2018, 05:05 PM

I don't know why, but this exchange cracked me up. I was in Australia this past November and ran into the same issues you describe above. Communicating was fine, but jokes and slang were totally lost on me. If it makes you feel any better though, I'm from the south, and I struggle to understand people from Louisiana!

Dan

That made me have a good laugh too, Dan!
I can imagine if you've never had anything involvement with Aussies before, then understanding what the hell we are saying to each other would confuse the hell out of you. The way we speak to each other in a group of mates I'm sure would upset a lot of other people. But we know we only giving each other **** and stirring each other up.

I was in Alexandria, Lafayette and Jena. Wow, it was just like you see in the movies. Some of the food was amazing. I traveled for 4 days to get there so on top of the communication issues, I was quite deliriously tired and not fully coherent which did not help. It was funny, some of the people I met laughed at the situation, others would just look at you like a weirdo and walk away. Which was also funny! The two times I accidentally drove on the wrong side of the road though, those people didn't find it funny...haha

I was teasing. :)

You betcha.

Agreed

English and Aussie slang is awesome. They get away with a lot of non-pc crap I wish I could here in the US :)

All good, am glad you guys can have a laugh! I've been on some other forums where there is no sense of humour at all. And the written word can be taken so wrong. So far this place has been a treat, everyone seems quite chilled and supportive. I don't think I've seen one know it all keyboard warrior yet, which is a breath of fresh air.

There's some Aussie comedians that I have watched who make their whole show about just that to an American audience. Very very funny. If anyone has some spare time, check out Jim Jefferies.

I'll go one step further. I grew up in Louisiana before moving to florida in 1988 and though I lost most of my original accent, I still have a hard time understanding myself.:seizure:

Back to the original subject,rs6 weight listed as1840kg, probably dry weight, works out to 4056 lbs. !950 ford f-1 trucks were said to have actual weight between 3,100 to 3,300 lbs, or 1406 to 1496 kg. My rough estimate with bronco frame ,all the extra plate metal, wood bed complete with removable sides & some sort of toolboxes underneath with a few supplies, audi powertrain & suspension, a mile of wiring, complete interior and a full tank of gas hopefully won't be over 3,700lbs or1678 kg. my guess of a real world in use utility weight. Still well under an empty audi.

That's funny! And I bet the Florida area has its own accent as well.

I'll have a chance to weight this in a few weeks when I trailer it down to the engineer. It's going to be very interesting.
Yes, I'd believe the 1840kg would be a dry weight. So in real world most likely over 2000kg full of fluids and stuff. From memory my SWB 76 F100 with 390FE was 1800kg when I had it weighed, again full of fluids. And it was bigger and heavier truck than the F1 will be. Here's a pic

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/pGz4jGl-1.jpg

Bob in St. Louis

01-04-2018, 05:09 PM

There's some Aussie comedians that I have watched who make their whole show about just that to an American audience. Very very funny. If anyone has some spare time, check out Jim Jefferies.

"Ozzie Man Reviews" on Facebook.
Wonderful humor (NSFW!)

Max Power

01-04-2018, 05:17 PM

Yep, you hit the nail on the head there. Funny stuff!

David Thorne is hilarious too. I've got a few of his books. He's an Aussie living in the US. Here's a few examples:

http://www.27bslash6.com/

lwdwn1

01-05-2018, 11:58 AM

Awesome build. Subscribed.

68EFIvert

01-05-2018, 12:27 PM

This is such an unique and cool build. I can't wait to see more progress

Max Power

01-05-2018, 04:28 PM

Thanks guys!
I wish I could be doing more today, I have the spare time, but the wife is sleeping after night shift and I would be sleeping elsewhere tonight if I started a grinder up.

Max Power

01-06-2018, 06:53 PM

Both towers now done with a few welds left to complete.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/9MGgDIW-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/ODRBzte-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/7pb2z6G-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/u1dKauw-1.jpg

KiwiStarChief

01-07-2018, 07:14 PM

I don't know how you find the time to do all this work, and post your progress as well. Great project by the way, I can't wait to see it finished.

Max Power

01-07-2018, 07:16 PM

Cheers, Russel. Much appreciated!

Something that has sped this along is giving up drinking each day. I've picked up the welder or grinder instead of going to the fridge for a cold one. I'm amazed at how much you can achieve, when you aren't drinking and procrastinating. ha!

grendel

01-07-2018, 07:25 PM

Max Power

01-07-2018, 07:27 PM

Do myself more harm than benefit you reckon? haha

Max Power

01-12-2018, 08:51 PM

Tail shaft centre bearing mount now done. Will tie it into the chassis more once I start boxing the chassis.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/MnkMeXY-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/j5xhojT-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/Jfnzdwp-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/10rkuZY-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/nLKhHaq-1.jpg

nimblemotorsports

01-12-2018, 10:00 PM

I am putting a Audi V8 in my 67 Corvair, so you know that I'm digging this build!
Looks like a huge amount of work, my project seems simple in comparison.

I was planning to build my own efi system since the factory computer can't deal with a manual trans,
and this is making me consider using the zf5hp automatic that I also have and try to get the stock computer to work.
So I'll be real interested to see how you get the wiring sorted. Mine is a the older 32 valve motor and not awd, so simpler.

Max Power

01-12-2018, 11:20 PM

I had to Google what a Corvair looked like. They are a cool looking car, I like them!

Have you got any pics you could share?

I don't know much about using alternative ECU units on these motors. My theory is that I have a complete and functional car, I'll delete bit by bit the components I don't need insuring everything that I do need works in the process.

I have heard of people doing manual conversions on my model. But your model there should be plenty of ECU options. How did you get your motor, did you have the whole car or did you just get the motor and trans by themselves? I think if I were attacking it, I'd look for a suitable complete salvage car to purchase for all the bits and pieces. I know here in Aus early 2000 model Audi's, including V8 models, are quite cheap to buy at salvage auctions. You should even be able to pick up a manual car and use it's parts.
One of the biggest issues with the Audi wiring system is that the dash cluster is VIN coded and a crucial component to be used in the engine management. Unless you have the know how to create a stand alone ECU, you're stuck needing to use the cluster and the key set to run the engine. Which is exactly what I'm planning to do.
I have a basic VAG scan tool that can read and clear DTC's. I've managed to problem solve a lot of issues with it in other VAG cars. One of them at a minimum is a must I think when playing with these cars.

digitalsolo

01-13-2018, 09:27 AM

This is a super cool build, thanks so much for sharing it with us all. I've done a lot of heavy custom fab on my car, but not to the level you're doing.

I have a lot of respect for someone who goes "ya know, we ought to just jam these two random vehicles together" and has the drive to actually make it happen. Keep it up!

Max Power

01-13-2018, 02:21 PM

Cheers, thanks very much! That's a pretty amazing compliment to hear, I truly appreciate it. Thank you!

Max Power

01-13-2018, 11:22 PM

Today's photo dump. Big progress. I'm so excited!!!
I finished the second rear engine mount. The front right mount is half done, awaiting alignment when the cradle is fitted. The front left mount will then be made too. I couldn't start it due to the bent left chassis rail on the Audi.
And then as you can see, chassis is off the jig and the diff is fitted. It went on perfectly. It is sitting higher than expected at the moment as there is next to no weight in the chassis.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/IKYPrkw-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/j5xNN6z-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/Z99bgNz-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/wCkRFvU-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/LtsAcOD-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/FUdTJiv-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/jZXDpA9-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/JckOObx-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/WeAE6Jg-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/UfEFSgJ-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/gorlwRp-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/0ivXxdq-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/E41UhBz-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/xuM8yld-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/zVgGM3C-1.jpg

nimblemotorsports

01-13-2018, 11:41 PM

The motor was from a salvage yard the PO bought and has the ECU and wiring harness with it. From what I understand will go into limp mode if it doesn't get the signals from the auto trans.

I'm also doing a 2000 jaguar s-type drivetrain swap into another vehicle and will try to keep intact all the wiring since I have the complete car, but it seems almost impossible, it also has the transponder key tied into it.
I have a 97 Ford Taurus SHO v8 and I could never get the ECU to work after extensive time spent studying all the wiring diagrams, etc,
and started on my own EFI system for it. The Audi V8 has a variable intake length control and throttle-by-wire, so more complexity there,
and your twin-turbo has gotta have even more stuff to deal with.

https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/125014-67-Corvair-quot-Audacious-quot?highlight=audacious

Have you got any pics you could share?

67SSDan

01-14-2018, 05:42 AM

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/E41UhBz-1.jpg

Hell yeah, it worked!! Nice man! (Not that I had any doubts, it's just cool to see it sitting on the ground!)

F-Body International

01-14-2018, 08:03 AM

My dad had one of these RS6 cars a few years ago. That Audi is no slouch...very fast car being a V8, twin turbo and automatic trans.

Peter Mc Mahon

01-14-2018, 10:20 AM

The lower control arms on the differential will be level at ride height? The floor of the bed will be at about the top of the tire? I like the ingenuity!

jlcustomz

01-14-2018, 10:51 AM

Man, nothing like good progress pics. I'm excited for you.
Like any off one project, small issues could show up later like ride height or ride quality, but nothing in that department that couldn't fairly easily be fixed. on the up side, anything you're doing with that audi suspension would have to be way better than a 50 ford ride quality----- like a tractor that is.

Another dumb thought I just had looking at the old leaf mounts not removed yet. If a tilt up bed could be any use to you utility wise, as in dumping stuff off , those mounts may be of use. Just a dumb thought.
Keep on keeping on. Looking good.

Max Power

01-14-2018, 12:11 PM

Thanks very much everyone! I still feel like a kid on Christmas, I was that excited. haha

I'm hoping later today I can get that front section removed under the steering rack and then I can fit the engine. Shouldn't take long but I have some work to get done first today.

The suspension barely squatted at all under the weight of the chassis. It really weighs next to nothing compared to the Audi body. I think I will need to go to a set of adjustable coil overs as the stock suspension is a DRC system where the opposing struts are hydraulically connected to each other. I don't know of anyone who has the ability to bleed them and they need to be done correctly. I rang our nearest Audi dealer and they suggested I look on Youtube to work out how to do it. So that gave me little confidence. They had no idea and definitely did not have the correct tools.
In the meantime I'll plug the hydraulic lines and then wait until later.
I think really the rear of the chassis needs to come down the best part of 80mm for the control arms to sit roughly in a stock ride height.

I left all of the old mounts and leaf spring ends and bits and pieces to maintain that old used look. I only removed the bits that had to go. I'm hoping to leave as much as I can. Including all the dirt and road grime.
That is a cool idea though, to build a hinge point of the leaf mounts. But I have another ute that has a tipper back.

JRANGER

01-14-2018, 05:15 PM

man that looks great!

Max Power

01-15-2018, 02:17 AM

Thanks, JRANGER!

I didn't get as far as I hoped today but made some good headway.

Chopped out the lower section of the plate under the rack

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/Q8hUzFQ-1.jpg

Then started lining the big girl up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/xc3Fxqo-1.jpg

It's going to be tight

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/pVXGz9l-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/9Uxpl8X-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/unoCgWl-1.jpg

After a little bit of trimming with the plasma and some cross members unbolted, things were looking better.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/pYZnkKS-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/qbQq16l-1.jpg

and magic, it fits!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/uuBwUgC-1.jpg

rear mounts line up

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/ODXNMl3-1.jpg

all tucked in on the sides

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/dnD6Ak7-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/HAVGfeP-1.jpg

the spring was just hitting the chassis rail

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/gZXcfWn-1.jpg

I took a little out with the plasma, I'll plate it when I take the engine back out.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/u15W9gy-1.jpg

Strut assembly bolted to the tower and steering rack bolted on.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/bVqwOdC-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/PuTXG1W-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/YsXa7hG-1.jpg

Now to repeat this for the left side and then finish fabbing the front mounts. Then it will roll. I'll be able to sit behind it and make all kinds of cool engine noises and pretend I am driving! haha

cornfedbill

01-15-2018, 06:27 AM

I really like this build. Keep up the good work.

Max Power

01-15-2018, 09:15 PM

Thanks, Bill!

ryeguy2006a

01-16-2018, 05:06 AM

Wow, that is some great progress!

67SSDan

01-16-2018, 05:15 AM

Okay, stupid question (and I'm still trying to decide if I'm just looking at all this wrong). Is all this sitting too low under the frame? I'm feeling like the engine is going to be half hanging out from under the truck, what am I missing?

Dan

Z06killinSBF

01-16-2018, 10:44 AM

This is awesome, coming along great!

Max Power

01-16-2018, 06:57 PM

This is awesome, coming along great!

Thanks very much!!

Well I'm stoked to say the least. A bit more trimming and adjustment but I got it in place. I need to get some more steel to finish of the front mounts but otherwise it is in, bolted up and rolling. And as I said, I'd get in and make car noises and that I did. Woo Hoo!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/xr0W00Z-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/aNKBJS9-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/G2zdilC-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/f2JpWFH-1.jpg

I still can't get over how well it fits.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/6ir5fvR-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/s9T3euv-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/4vplDED-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/sLlCwNy-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/yJAYgGr-1.jpg

jlcustomz

01-16-2018, 07:07 PM

Heck with the truck body , Get the rest of the mechanical, fuel & electrical together & take it for a spin like that.:firefire:

Max Power

01-16-2018, 07:09 PM

Don't temp me....hahaha!

Motown 454

01-16-2018, 07:13 PM

It looks good! I'm still at the making curse noise point on my build.

Max Power

01-16-2018, 07:14 PM

Cheers, Wayne!
Don't worry, every time I walk past my 69 Mustang it gets dirty looks off me too...

Max Power

01-19-2018, 11:30 PM

A few steps forward and a few back the last few days. It's out of the shed for the first time. I don't think much will happen now until after I take it to see the engineer in the first week of Feb.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/NSdk6gA-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/9jCH4Py-1.jpg

nimblemotorsports

01-20-2018, 08:01 AM

looking good!

Max Power

01-20-2018, 02:51 PM

looking good!

Thanks!

cornfedbill

01-20-2018, 03:19 PM

I’m impressed!

jlcustomz

01-20-2018, 05:11 PM

By engineer in Australia , I guess you mean someone that has to inspect it for licensing purposes?

Gotta say what you got sitting there is one hell of an accomplishment since November 24 th. But hey , you got plenty you could do till then to get ready for some assembly. You could hook up steering column with a temporary mount , temporary mount gauge cluster, hook up the wiring, etc to get it fired up.
Oh, and the important item, temporary twin seats.
Engineer may want a ride, just have him bring spare clean shorts.

sandiegocamaro

01-20-2018, 05:29 PM

I have to say, I'm very impressed with your imagination and production.

Max Power

01-20-2018, 07:29 PM

I’m impressed!

Cheers!

By engineer in Australia , I guess you mean someone that has to inspect it for licensing purposes?

Gotta say what you got sitting there is one hell of an accomplishment since November 24 th. But hey , you got plenty you could do till then to get ready for some assembly. You could hook up steering column with a temporary mount , temporary mount gauge cluster, hook up the wiring, etc to get it fired up.
Oh, and the important item, temporary twin seats.
Engineer may want a ride, just have him bring spare clean shorts.

Yes, that is correct. The entire build needs to be inspected and certified for registration(licensing) before I am allowed to use it on public roads.

Thanks very much! I'm very happy with what I have managed to do in 8 weeks. My goal was to have it rolling for inspection and I did just that.

There's still heaps that can be done or that I can work towards but with the chassis for now I need to get more advice from the engineer to what he wants done. I need to build it to suit his requirements. And modifying the chassis is what I need his input on. I know what I want to do, I just need the ok from him before I do it.

When I first spoke to him to put across my idea, I wanted the ok before starting, he was very exciting at the possibilities. I guess he sees so much of the same old thing, something left field was exciting. I'm really keen to hear what he has to say now that it is more than just an idea in my mind.

I have to say, I'm very impressed with your imagination and production.

Thanks very much!

Max Power

01-20-2018, 07:34 PM

I didn't post this before as it was more me working things out in my head. But I had a go at fitting the front end. It didn't go to plan.
I sat it as far back as I could to align the wheels with the wheel arches. But because the Audi engine is so far forward, it doesn't fit. Which means there is no room for the radiator. When I originally aligned the chassis to driveline placement, I allowed enough room at the front in between the chassis rails for the radiator and other pieces. Now that I know these don't fit in this space, I need to come up with other options. Which is fine. But the chassis rails are now pushing the front too far forward. I can section out the area under and behind the grill but it would be easier if I can just take 100mm or so off the chassis rails. This is one thing I need to clear with the engineer first.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/xWTmaEl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/k2ZEn44-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/SlgRIH4-1.jpg

Max Power

01-20-2018, 07:38 PM

I got the tank into place too but it also fouls on the chassis. It needs to come up about 50mm at the front to allow clearance for the driveshaft.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/Dj4OKn9-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/OT4lIvS-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/BKIRN8F-1.jpg

I'm thinking of placing the radiator here

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/97frtoF-1.jpg

This is a crude illustration, my photoshop skills are poor, of how I could produce air ducts to circulate airflow under the tray bed.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/1fDgYv7-1.jpg

Max Power

01-20-2018, 07:39 PM

This is a photo someone shared with me ages ago. This is the style of bed I'm going for.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/FGNl0Sb-1.jpg

nimblemotorsports

01-21-2018, 09:34 AM

You might try doing what they do on the Porsche Boxster and other cars, and use two smaller radiators ahead of the front wheels.
Looks like plenty of room in the wheel wells. This actually works well as the air flows out the wheel wells from the grill, add some deflectors
to channel the air to the sides behind the grill. Given the depth of the grill, could probably trim a little in the back too.

148068

Max Power

01-21-2018, 12:00 PM

Good idea but unfortunately that space is already spoken for. That is where the twin intercoolers will be fitted. There are also two more small radiators fitted behind each intercooler which go there too.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/HWUcgqY-1.jpg

cornfedbill

01-21-2018, 02:32 PM

I like your idea of placing the radiator behind the cab and under the bed.

Bob in St. Louis

01-21-2018, 03:50 PM

The level of insanity here just blows my mind.
Rock on Sir.... Rock. On.

nimblemotorsports

01-21-2018, 06:18 PM

If the intercoolers are there, you will need to direct air over them too.
Putting the radiator in the back looks like a bad idea, watch the roadkill episode with the Mazdarati that did similiar, it didn't work very well.

Another idea particularly because you have such a big truck is to mount the radiator above the engine, and put vents into the hood,
and duct around it so incoming goes through radiator and out. Might need to make flex hoses so you can move it too, maybe even mount
it directly to the hood, think i've seen that done too.

148096

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_BnHXfvZVFo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XuHIemMF4kY

67SSDan

01-21-2018, 06:31 PM

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/NSdk6gA-1.jpg

Ah ha, I see it now! I was thinking those first pictures must have been messing with me.

Super cool, and definitely an impressive amount of work so far!

brawls43

01-22-2018, 06:38 AM

I like the rear mounted radiator, that's what I was going to recommend. Lots of the desert racers use them, as do the drifters these days. There are plenty of ways to make it work. I think a big part of success is adding another pump. Your engines water pump wasn't meant to push it with that much increased restriction in the system.

ryeguy2006a

01-22-2018, 06:56 AM

The speed that this build is moving at is incredible! Nice work. Good luck with your engineer and keep us posted.

Max Power

01-22-2018, 07:09 PM

I like your idea of placing the radiator behind the cab and under the bed.

I think it will work. It's going to take a bit of problem solving but I think it's doable.

The level of insanity here just blows my mind.
Rock on Sir.... Rock. On.

Ahaha, sweet. Cheers!

If the intercoolers are there, you will need to direct air over them too.
Putting the radiator in the back looks like a bad idea, watch the roadkill episode with the Mazdarati that did similiar, it didn't work very well.

Another idea particularly because you have such a big truck is to mount the radiator above the engine, and put vents into the hood,
and duct around it so incoming goes through radiator and out. Might need to make flex hoses so you can move it too, maybe even mount
it directly to the hood, think i've seen that done too.

I had planned to track air under the grill through ducting through the intercoolers and into the wheel arches. Just like the factory setup on the RS6. I still have the factory plastic ducts but they may or may not be suitable.

I can understand why the radiator fitted in the tub of the Mazda didn't work. They had no air flow at all going to it at all. What was amazing was that when they were going around the track with just two of their side of the road ducting installs, it was maintaining a manageable running temp. That was reassuring to see. If done properly, it should work fine.

I expect my bonnet will sit just above the air intake on the engine. It is not fitted at the moment but can be seen on that photo with the intercoolers still fitted. It's a large alloy and plastic setup with carbon covers.

The wind tunnel video was interesting. The passage through the grill and out through the bonnet was very streamlined. The air coming out was nearly as neat as the stream going in.

Ah ha, I see it now! I was thinking those first pictures must have been messing with me.

Super cool, and definitely an impressive amount of work so far!

Much appreciated, bald guy. Cheers!

I like the rear mounted radiator, that's what I was going to recommend. Lots of the desert racers use them, as do the drifters these days. There are plenty of ways to make it work. I think a big part of success is adding another pump. Your engines water pump wasn't meant to push it with that much increased restriction in the system.

One of my mates works in a performance shop and was talking to their radiator supplier (PWR) and he pretty much said what you've just said word for word. I think he's going to suss it out a little more for me, the layout and components, so it'll be interesting to get his professional advice as well.

The speed that this build is moving at is incredible! Nice work. Good luck with your engineer and keep us posted.

Thanks very much! The count down is on now to see the engineer. I'm starting to make a list of things I want/need to discuss and doing more looking at it, contemplating, then doing anything hands on at the moment.

I'm also going to discuss air bag suspension with him. It's an expense I'm not keen on spending on it but seeing as I can't use the stock suspension, something needs to be done and this might be best.

Stealth 69

01-23-2018, 03:45 PM

Ahh good to get my update fix on this thread - loving the innovations / dream / outside the box attitude

Max Power

01-23-2018, 03:46 PM

Ahh good to get my update fix on this thread - loving the innovations / dream / outside the box attitude

Cheers, Stealth. Much appreciated!

I wish I had more to update on at the moment.

jlcustomz

01-23-2018, 07:25 PM

Didn't really notice till seeing your chassis out in the open, but audi's engine placement definitely sits pretty far forwards in relation to the front wheels & moving it back sure doesn't look like any kind of any easy option with the suspension & steering. There are quite a few street rods over here I see pictures of that don't have a radiator up front which a looked into years ago. I think as brawls stated, another pump should help make a rear mount work. I saw a v-8 trike before where the tubular frame was actually part of the radiator hose system for the rear mounted radiator. So you got options.
On the fuel tank height issue, you think a little frame trimming & reinforcing will get you the needed clearance?

Max Power

01-23-2018, 07:28 PM

Moving the engine back is not an option. The front wheels are driven from a trans axle. Moving the engine back moves the wheels back too.

Yes, I think 50mm clearance in the chassis would be enough to bring the front of the tank up to clear the drive shaft. Another option would be to section out the tank and plastic weld that.

jlcustomz

01-23-2018, 10:08 PM

I'd guess the tank is probably a polyethelyne which epoxy will stick to though welding is best. Hot air welding with ribbons (strips) would probably be the best method. Polyvance is the best known place for plastic welding supplies and technical information here.
https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=9x5oWp7kPM6usAXhgYPQCg&q=polyvance&oq=polyvance&gs_l=psy-ab.1.0.35i39k1j0l2j0i20i263k1j0l4j0i20i263k1j0.213 8.6404.0.10342.10.9.0.0.0.0.193.1272.0j9.9.0....0. ..1c.1.64.psy-ab..1.9.1271.0..0i67k1j0i131k1j0i20i264k1j0i131i67 k1j0i10k1.0.uITTHAnke3Y

Polypropylene is 2nd most likely material & is weld only.
You can make your own welding ribbons if needed from from donor material thin enough to flex.

ekmxryda

01-24-2018, 05:30 AM

You could try a heat gun to just push in those two corners instead of cutting and welding the plastic?

Max Power

01-25-2018, 03:27 AM

I hadn't thought of heating it and reshaping it but I like that idea. I had a look at it today and could instantly see a possible issue.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/CZ0ATiF-1.jpg

So I opened the lids to see what could be effected. The left side was the fuel level. Changing the angle of this by heating the above area could and most likely will effect the fuel level reading but that I could live with. The assembly is spring loaded so that if the lid was closer to the base of the tank, the unit would just compress.
The right side, which I thought I photographed, was the fuel pump side. The base of the fuel pump is fixed to the base of the tank. The top section, the lid, is only connected to the base by hoses and wiring. So changing the angle or closing up the space would not effect this either. I think heating and moulding it is going to be the way to fix the issue.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/eXlDxGJ-1.jpg

grendel

01-25-2018, 05:41 AM

Do you have to stick with that tank for some reason? Why not put the pump and sending unit into a tank that fits the chassis?

JRANGER

01-25-2018, 06:17 AM

Alot of guys on these old frames use a 22 gal 70s mustang tank in the back half. They cut the support beam and make a mount to fit it.

Here is some info
https://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/installing-a-mid-60s-mustang-gas-tank-in-a-1953-f-100/

skylark guy

01-25-2018, 06:47 AM

This build is amazing! I'll be staying tuned for your progress.

gnx7

01-25-2018, 01:58 PM

Just stumbled across this build! OMG..... you are a nut job.... in a good way :)
Can't wait to see this drive! Maybe take it skiing when finished!

Max Power

01-25-2018, 02:13 PM

Do you have to stick with that tank for some reason? Why not put the pump and sending unit into a tank that fits the chassis?

Alot of guys on these old frames use a 22 gal 70s mustang tank in the back half. They cut the support beam and make a mount to fit it.

Here is some info
https://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/installing-a-mid-60s-mustang-gas-tank-in-a-1953-f-100/

It's mainly to utilise what I already have and to not create any possibility of an upset to the Audi electronics. That's basically it. Otherwise yeah, going a Mustang tank would be fine. I have one here out of my 69 fastback.

This build is amazing! I'll be staying tuned for your progress.

Just stumbled across this build! OMG..... you are a nut job.... in a good way :)
Can't wait to see this drive! Maybe take it skiing when finished!

I appreciate it guys, thanks!

grendel

01-25-2018, 03:44 PM

Stick all the Audi electronics in a tank that fits the chassis. You'll have more headaches with that Audi tank than it's worth.

Max Power

01-25-2018, 03:47 PM

I've had the heat gun on it this morning, I think I've got it sorted. A bit more playing and I'll know how it goes.

Max Power

01-25-2018, 11:52 PM

The tailshaft is in and bolted up. The tank is just held in with straps at the moment until I make its mounts. But I'm onto them now.
I had to drop the diff out to get the tank support in.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/xXX7qub-1.jpg

Plenty of clearance.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/iJVYY5I-1.jpg

I flattened the areas under the chassis rails a bit on both sides but most of the clearance came from sharpening the angle in the centre above the tail shaft. I did this by heating the top area and jacking it up from underneath stretching the top.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/mLDToJz-1.jpg

Max Power

01-28-2018, 03:11 PM

Not a lot done over the weekend as I went and saw the Foo Fighters in Sydney. Awesome as always!!

I did get the rear tank mount made though yesterday afternoon after getting home.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/QnPMzKt-1.jpg

I need to do another for the mid support and front mount. The front mount as you can see here will also incorporate the exhaust mount.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/5zYKQqn-1.jpg

The tank is now happily sitting inside the chassis rails with clearance top and bottom. The filler neck is just going to need a sharp elbow to come out and around.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/Lhb6Aoa-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/01/fdmtQ1V-1.jpg

scrubby2009

01-31-2018, 03:51 PM

Watching this one. You're building a version of my fantasy "stealthy lo-buck" hotrod. My wife had an A4 Avant Quattro for a bit with the 1.8T and 5spd. What a hoot to beat on, and I've often built in my head various '60's and '70's compacts on an Audi chassis and drive train. Carry on, sir! Enjoying this thread.

Max Power

02-02-2018, 01:49 AM

Thanks, Scrubby!
I really like the look of the A4 Avants. I was pointing a nice one out the wife not long ago saying she should get one. But she asked if I was buying it for her....

Max Power

02-04-2018, 08:43 PM

Loaded up, ready to see the engineer tomorrow.
I weighed it in the process and it's currently 1040kg.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/02/ZQ9AlLP-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/02/9zfrqrF-1.jpg

ryeguy2006a

02-05-2018, 05:22 AM

Good luck! We are all rooting for you.

Motown 454

02-05-2018, 03:49 PM

I hope it goes smooth for you.

Buryingthesun

02-05-2018, 05:19 PM

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/02/ZQ9AlLP-1.jpg

I never realized how far those engine hung in front of the front tires

Max Power

02-05-2018, 08:42 PM

Good luck! We are all rooting for you.

I hope it goes smooth for you.

Thanks, guys!

Am back home now and after an hour and a half or so talking to the engineer, I got the thumbs up for my design and work. He likes where it is going and I'm free to continue on. I'm stoked to say the least. Had a smile on my face the whole way home. I had heads turning everywhere to get a look at what the hell it was on the my trailer.

Next step is to cut down the front of the frame rails and start fitting up the F1 parts.

I never realized how far those engine hung in front of the front tires

It sure is a long way forward. I think the back end is going to be light to drive with. I'm glad it is all wheel drive so the front wheels can pull the rear ones in the direction they should be going.

jlcustomz

02-05-2018, 09:16 PM

I'll be honest with ya, I wasn't worried about you getting the thumbs up. We've all seen questionable home builds. This ain't one of em.

Do have a thought for mounting your radiator in back. It would be cool (literally) if some of the plumbing was aluminum tubing with some fins welded to them for some extra heat dissipation. Not that it gets hot where you're at or anything, :dunno: but wouldn't hurt.
Anxious to see some old sheet metal on there.:git:

Max Power

02-06-2018, 12:01 AM

Cheers, very much appreciated!

I had brought some beaded ended aluminium piping before but I'd need to look into what lengths are available. I'd probably prefer that over stainless. But it will be made from either of the two. Adding some fins would not be a hard thing to do. It really is going to be a trial and error thing as it goes to see what works best. Knowing me though I'll get this built in winter and discover the problems in summer and then have to redo it.

Me too, shouldn't be long now until it's looking like an old truck.

cornfedbill

02-06-2018, 04:14 AM

Congratulations on the engineer approval. Great work.

Max Power

02-06-2018, 01:50 PM

Thanks, Bill!

Motown 454

02-06-2018, 03:20 PM

Great News!!

Max Power

02-08-2018, 08:45 PM

I've had this on and off 100 times trimming here and there to get it into position. I've had to take out a whole more more original Henry steel than I first thought but it will work. I'm going to have to step the grill and headlight buckets forward a little, maybe 50mm, but they will still be in place.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/02/v0e8EVI-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/02/kFSz3B4-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/02/g0UBuP5-1.jpg

jlcustomz

02-08-2018, 10:16 PM

Max Power

02-09-2018, 12:06 AM

To say I'm excited is an understatement! Everything is just sitting in place and supported by the blocks of timber. But it's all in roughly the correct position. And this is without chopping anything out of the cab floor. I can't believe it, I thought I would have to chop the hell out of it. The wheels are lining up where I want them to, they're sitting neatly in the wheel arches. The bottoms of the fenders will flare out more was they are mounted correctly giving a little more room under the wheel arch but I think once that is done everything is going to clear well.
Fitting the twin intercoolers in is going to be interesting. But I'll work it out. But best of all I think the steering column is going to fit in length wise well too.
Lots of work to do but it's so good to see it actually looking like a truck now.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/02/5G2vvfU-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/02/ZEY1Lpi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/02/iKDff3f-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/02/OeXPwzQ-1.jpg

Real estate for the radiator has become tighter but I think it'll still work out.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/02/k4Poix3-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/02/0404XqS-1.jpg

Max Power

02-09-2018, 12:08 AM

Well, the good news is you'll have a hell of a lot of under dash room for AC & electronics.

I know you weren't intending on doing much of any metal work to the body , but Slitting the front from top to bottom just in front of the wheel opening & adding about a 6" (150 mm) strip of 18 gauge sheet metal would correct the wheel opening for cosmetics & turning & give room up front. Or move the wheel opening.

There's so much room for all that gear to fit, I don't think I'm going to have a problem there as there is a lot of stuff to find homes for.

Do you mean pushing the fenders out more? I think at the moment it is deceptive as the fenders are hanging under their own weight and not sitting correctly. Once mounted and supported, I'm pretty sure I'll have all the clearance I need.

NoNo

02-09-2018, 12:37 AM

I just love to see how fast you got back at it after the engineer gave you the thumbs up !
Shows your enthousiasm...

Outstanding job, sir.

Max Power

02-09-2018, 01:13 AM

I just love to see how fast you got back at it after the engineer gave you the thumbs up !
Shows your enthousiasm...

Outstanding job, sir.

Thanks, NoNo! I'm happy to get back into it. The previous two weeks were in a bit of a limbo waiting to speak to the engineer. Felt great to rip into it today with the grinder and plasma.

JRANGER

02-09-2018, 05:12 AM

Max Power

02-09-2018, 11:59 AM

WOW! Looks good!!! Glad you arent having to as much cutting as expected...One of these days my plan is to do a swap but not to this extreme. More like a F100 to Dakota change over. Its great seeing all the hard work going into this. Keep it up

Thanks!

We had a Dakota as a hire car for a few days in LA. I was impressed. We don't get many bigger trucks here so it was fun experiencing a newer one.

jlcustomz

02-09-2018, 06:45 PM

67SSDan

02-10-2018, 06:48 AM

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/02/v0e8EVI-1.jpg

That is so bad a$$!!! I'm loving those wheels with this truck also! Super cool stuff. Are you just dead set against running the stock bed? Or do you just not have it? The more I'm looking at it, I think it'd be really sick all stock body.

Dan

Max Power

02-10-2018, 01:28 PM

Today's pictures do show the wheels looking much more centered in the wheel openings. I was referring to actually lengthening the entire front end which would give more room for stuff. I know that wasn't in your plans, but with the older thicker metal making cuts in the right spots & welding in filler strips to lengthen front wouldn't be so bad. I only mention this as a thought being that you're fighting for space & fitting all these components in a tight spot can get time consuming, possibly more so than extending the front sheet metal..

For crash protection , are you considering making brackets to drop down from frame height & install some sort of bumper or at least a steel bar between the rails behind the lower sheet metal ?

Haven't come up with any better ideas for the radiator situation. Just as a joke, how about a roof spoiler/ radiator combo.:poke:

Is looking good there. I'm excited for ya.:cool: In my head ,I pictured the Audi wheels looking good with the pickup body & they really do. When it's a positive thought, I love being right.

I need to build a cross member to tie the two front rails to each other. This will hopefully hide behind the grill. I think the alignment and space there will allow it. I'm going to have to set the grill forward about 50mm but in the long run, I don't think this will be overly noticeable.

Everything else in front of the engine that is relocatable, will move. I have all this space here to work with. It's nearly a trunk size space. ha

I've had a few people now say to me they like the wheels. I had thought they would suit ok being the colour they are and they are a subtle pattern. It's great to see it together now to see my thoughts were working out. I'll leave them as they are and if down the track I want to paint them a patina, I can. I really like that they are not offensive as so many modern wheels on old cars are.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/02/YTreij1-1.jpg

That is so bad a$$!!! I'm loving those wheels with this truck also! Super cool stuff. Are you just dead set against running the stock bed? Or do you just not have it? The more I'm looking at it, I think it'd be really sick all stock body.

Dan

Thanks, Dan!

Yes to both, I don't have a stock bed and I don't want to use one. I have two other trucks/utes, one is a dual cab Amarok and the other a tray back Falcon. I hate that I can not fit my motorbike in my Amarok. I have to take my wife's Falcon ute if I want to go riding. I love the Amarok for every other aspect but it annoys me that I can't use it for that. The bed/tray/tub on it does fit a pallet, which is a lot for our Aussie cars, but apart from carrying smaller stuff, it's useless. And I can see a stock F1 bed being the same thing. If I'm going to have any argument when this truck is done for it to be staying close to home, it has to be useful. Plus I'm a tight ass and don't want to spend silly money on this build. My 69 Mustang has done and gone beyond expectations in that aspect. haha!

This will also give you a bit of an idea at the asking price for these old parts are going here in Aus. And this bed doesn't even have a tailgate. It's ridiculous.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1951-52-Ford-F1-Pickup-Running-Boards-original-suit-Ford-F1-pickup-chevy-coe/222806834387?hash=item33e0527cd3:g:fYkAAOSwTLlZu2a N

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1953-56-Ford-F100-Pickup-Bed-complete-original-Fenders-cheap-Ford-F1-ute-nice/222806834377?hash=item33e0527cc9:g:lhUAAOSw4CFY11y U

andrewb70

02-10-2018, 01:31 PM

You need Marty and Moog documenting this!!!

Andrew

67SSDan

02-11-2018, 07:19 AM

This will also give you a bit of an idea at the asking price for these old parts are going here in Aus. And this bed doesn't even have a tailgate. It's ridiculous.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1951-52-Ford-F1-Pickup-Running-Boards-original-suit-Ford-F1-pickup-chevy-coe/222806834387?hash=item33e0527cd3:g:fYkAAOSwTLlZu2a N

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1953-56-Ford-F100-Pickup-Bed-complete-original-Fenders-cheap-Ford-F1-ute-nice/222806834377?hash=item33e0527cc9:g:lhUAAOSw4CFY11y U

Oh holy crap, yeah that's dumb! In any case, this is going to be the sickest driver ever!

Dan

JRANGER

02-12-2018, 04:35 PM

maybe try marK o, midfifty.com, or lmctruck...Maybe cheaper

Max Power

02-12-2018, 05:07 PM

maybe try marK o, midfifty.com, or lmctruck...Maybe cheaper

What was that for, sorry?

brawls43

02-12-2018, 05:17 PM

Pretty sure those are all aftermarket vendors that sell new reproduction beds. Freight to you would probably kill pricing though and lack the patina of the rest of the truck.

Max Power

02-12-2018, 05:19 PM

Ah, rightio. I can tell you without looking that freight would kill it. Probably cost more in freight than those original ones in the ebay listings. Not to mention the import duties on top of that. It'd probably be cheaper to import a whole truck.

JRANGER

02-12-2018, 05:31 PM

What was that for, sorry?

For the parts you were looking for. Might be able to score them cheaper granted shipping may cost a bit

Max Power

02-12-2018, 05:37 PM

For the parts you were looking for. Might be able to score them cheaper granted shipping may cost a bit

No worries, thanks for that. Sorry for any confusion though, I don't plan to use a stock bed. I was only putting those ones up as an example of how stupidly over priced things are here compared to what you guys have available to you.

Out of interest though, does anyone have any experience with purchasing from the LMC website? I was looking at them last week, it'd be great to know if they are good or bad to deal with?

JRANGER

02-12-2018, 06:16 PM

They use a lot of chinese parts like a lot of dealers but ive ordered some odds and ends from them. I know a lot of chevy guys use them as well. they a good company

MrBlonde

02-12-2018, 08:48 PM

To say I'm excited is an understatement!..
Looks great mate! Loving this thread.

Widetrax

02-16-2018, 07:44 PM

Max, I have really enjoyed reading and watching your thread! I started watching it because We are getting a customized 49 F-1. My uncle built it this way about 30 years ago with a 58 Chrysler drive line. Which means it’s got a stock 392 hemi in it. 149377149378 keep up the awesome work! Looking forward to seeing you drive it!

Max Power

02-17-2018, 01:08 PM

Sorry guys, I've been distracted with life and didn't get any emails to say there were some replies.

They use a lot of chinese parts like a lot of dealers but ive ordered some odds and ends from them. I know a lot of chevy guys use them as well. they a good company

Thanks for that! I placed an order for some small parts and they got back to me with a postage quote. I'm still waiting on a reply since, time will tell. I like the site though, it's easy to use to find what you are after.

Looks great mate! Loving this thread.

Cheers, mate!

Max, I have really enjoyed reading and watching your thread! I started watching it because We are getting a customized 49 F-1. My uncle built it this way about 30 years ago with a 58 Chrysler drive line. Which means it’s got a stock 392 hemi in it. keep up the awesome work! Looking forward to seeing you drive it!

Thanks very much! That is a cool looking truck you have there. And it looks quite solid too. What are your plans with it when you get it?

Max Power

02-17-2018, 01:23 PM

I've been scratching my head at how to mount the cab. It was either use the original cab mounts and make supports for them, or use the original supports on the chassis and make cab mounts. I decided to go with using the original chassis supports on the Bronco as they are solid. Plus the cab mounts are sitting hard on the top of the chassis, I can only raise the cab to fit a mount and I didn't want anymore height in its position. I'd actually like to drop it about 20mm. So, that's my plan.

The original Bronco mounts are past their useby date. They are rusted solid.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/02/8CC1tBh-1.jpg

Here's one of the rear mounts which nearly fell out on it's own. It had rusted quite badly between the two halves. I looked at buy a kit but they all seem to come with at least 8 sets or more and I really only needed 4. So I found a plastic company that sold blank lengths of polyurethane, which is what the aftermarket kits are made from, and I purchased a piece of that.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/02/XEFqOgX-1.jpg

A little bit of time spent on the tools and I came up with this

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/02/yWr0bdJ-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/02/JuooRYF-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/02/1dqux5Q-1.jpg

This is where I'm up to. As I said, not a huge amount of progress as it's been a busy week with work and family.
I didn't want to weld a mount straight onto the cab, not sure how much strength is in it. So I made that triangle shaped base to fix to the cab and then I'll extend the mount down off it. I worked out too that I should also be able to tie the left and right side triangle plates to each other under the cab body in a straight line. So I'll do that too.

As I also said before, I wanted to drop the cab an extra 20mm from where it is sitting now so I made an extra 20mm spacer to stand the mount higher to fabricate from that fixed position.
The black crap running off the support is just some rust convertor I sprayed on a few days before.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/02/SLUn1hD-1.jpg

Motown 454

02-17-2018, 01:44 PM

Nice fix! A friend of mine used this on a Jeep he built, it worked great.

Max Power

02-17-2018, 01:48 PM

Thanks, Wayne!

Widetrax

02-17-2018, 10:29 PM

Max, the truck is being fixed up for my wife, she wants it lowered a bit, with a set of Detroit Steel wheels with moon caps, and chrome rings. Also add a visor. After we play with it for a while in the patina it has, I will probably paint it a aqua green. It still has all drum brakes, so that’s gotta change soon! The hemi is stock , bit it still runs about 345hp, with lots of torque. So it really needs the big brakes.
I like the body mounts you are making! I used to old urathane skate board wheels for engine mounts on my old Pontiac Fiero, it tore the factory rubber ones up pretty quick. Keep up the great work!!

Max Power

02-23-2018, 03:46 PM

Thanks, Widetrax! Using skate board wheels is definitely using what you have on hand. Good thinking!

Another slow week here, I haven't been around much which has limited time in the shed. I've also been taking advantage of the weather too when it is a bit cooler to go riding which is always enticing.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/02/uvTQ0tk-1.jpg

I've just finished putting together the front cab mounts using the original Bronco chassis mounts. I'll complete the welding and tidy them up once the rest of the cab is sorted. I mig welded the insides of these for simplicity and time saving. There's a bit of splatter to clean up but thought the time spent tig welding them was wasted time.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/02/sLSEoFJ-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/02/kKpwCvE-1.jpg

FormTA

02-26-2018, 01:49 PM

I like the mounts. They look good.

Max Power

03-10-2018, 02:20 PM

Progress has been a little slow of late. Anything worth while of noting hasn't really happened. I've been on the road quite a bit then we had a lot of rain and my shed flooded. Thankfully this time it didn't go through my house.
I've been tinkering and that is about it. I had to make some pins for the door hinges, even though they are only around $2 each to buy, shipping them to Aus was going to cost about $40 so not worth it. I've also been making more of the polyurethane cab mounts and working out how they are going to fit. I started out with just removing the front section of the floor, the area that was rotted. But slowly I took more and more until it was all gone. The section between the A and B pillar on the US drivers side was completely stuffed and no longer joined. The other side is not much better. So all that came out. I also took my time taking pieces out of the rear to lower the back of the cab to where it needed to be to be level to the chassis. It now looks like this.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/03/meQLfnM-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/03/EHJLlPv-1.jpg

I haven't removed the firewall yet, I'll get the floor frame done first.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/03/2UyH4j9-1.jpg

Here I had tacked in a new piece to support the bottom of the door pillars. This side door was hanging far too low. I was able to straighten it up to nearly where it needs to be but I'll keep working on that as new metal goes in.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/03/hb66vlY-1.jpg

Most of this is what came out of one cab corner. No wonder they like to rust in these areas.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/03/hwnElQj-1.jpg

I also blew apart the front end. It wasn't going to work keeping it as one piece.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/03/98WSJLW-1.jpg

As she sits

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/03/h6it2m9-1.jpg

Bob in St. Louis

03-10-2018, 04:36 PM

I like the nails, those were a nice touch. haha

Max Power

03-10-2018, 04:39 PM

Haha! Can you imagine how old they could be? Considering the cab is almost twice my age, it's most likely that they are way older than I am.

Bob in St. Louis

03-10-2018, 04:41 PM

Yea, no kidding! So funny.
Some guy spilled his tool box over and there ya go. Like a little time capsule.

Max Power

03-28-2018, 03:21 PM

Progress has still been slow but life has been hectic. We've also had to deal with a lot of rain and flooding. While everything is now starting to dry out, anything and everything that was bare metal now of course has a nice layer of surface rust. What do you do, I guess it''s better than everything washing away.

I had to make more cab mounts for the rear of the cab, they are the same as the fronts. I had a heap of rot in this mount which I cut out and patched.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/03/7j52Gij-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/03/7B9sc59-1.jpg

With the cab floor so close to the mount, I was never going to be able to access the top of the bolt from the under side so I decided to make them accessible from inside the cab. I boxed out the mount with some 90x90mm rhs and brought that up to the new floor level. I tied these together and then to the rear sides of the cab with a length of RHS

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/03/cMbTOOI-1.jpg

I've now tied the rear cab mounts to the front cab mounts and framed it out. I'll add some further bracing in the middle once I work out the front of the seat base position. Next is to cut out the old fire wall and start working out steering column and pedal locations.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/03/JkJHOZQ-1.jpg

jlcustomz

03-28-2018, 06:50 PM

Somewhat similar situation for many of us. You have a really good run for a while with a project, then in one way or another, Life just gets in the way. Then any progress is good progress. And yea, now you're working on rusty fabricated stuff.
You got a little fan club in the US cheering for you, so soldier on mate.:cheers:

Max Power

03-28-2018, 06:59 PM

If there is something that doesn't take 5 minutes, it's fixing rust. It get old pretty quick.

Thanks, JL. I'll keep plugging away.

Motoracer838

03-30-2018, 06:47 AM

If there is something that doesn't take 5 minutes, it's fixing rust. It get old pretty quick.

Thanks, JL. I'll keep plugging away.

I heard you on that, I'm done with anything other that "minor" (of course, even minor is a pain...) rust repair... Oh yeah, your "out of the box" project is cool...

Joe

JRANGER

03-30-2018, 07:49 AM

I heard you on that, I'm done with anything other that "minor" (of course, even minor is a pain...) rust repair... Oh yeah, your "out of the box" project is cool...

Joe

LOL! I oddly like rust repair as long as it isnt structural. Then again, i hate external rust...Ive replaced so many floor panels at this point its not funny but im also starting to like 3m 8115 panel bonding. Just used it on a Eleanor Body kit on my 65 Mustang and it could be handy and less grinding/welding issues for things like quarter patches or cab corner

Max Power

03-30-2018, 06:12 PM

I heard you on that, I'm done with anything other that "minor" (of course, even minor is a pain...) rust repair... Oh yeah, your "out of the box" project is cool...

Joe

Thanks, Joe!

Is there such thing as "minor rust"? I don't think I've ever seen one small thing stay small, there's always other stuff hiding.

Max Power

03-31-2018, 10:05 PM

Today I sat the seat base in the see if it will fit. It will, awesome! And there is room to spare either end, even better.
I've just got some sheet steel sitting on the floor frame to support it along with some blocks to work out the height.
I'm happy as this means I can definitely make it a 3 seat truck using the Audi Recaro seats.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/04/uarTLlY-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/04/SsV7Wgr-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/04/kPXv7rj-1.jpg

Max Power

03-31-2018, 10:56 PM

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/04/O9dX27k-1.jpg

Max Power

04-10-2018, 11:08 PM

This has taken quite a bit of trial and error to get this steering column in but I have it now. I had to wait for another steering shaft to arrive as I needed to extend the existing shaft about 100mm. This also allowed me to get the steering wheel in a slightly better angle to the seating position. Anywho, it's in.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/04/sUNJwzC-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/04/dZTveJf-1.jpg

Here's what I did with the shaft. I brought the same unit as the existing shaft and cut it down. It slipped into the end of the uni well. I just need to fab up a support for it to brace it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/04/EqD3iEG-1.jpg

This was the original Audi dash support which I removed and cut down to fit under the F1 dash. It's now welded in place and braces the Audi steering column perfect.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/04/p3bVcoV-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/04/9vNBje0-1.jpg

Fitting the Audi dash cluster is going to get tricky. So I made a template to work out if it'll fit. I think it will but it's going to be tight.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/04/Jcs17Xu-1.jpg?1

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/04/RkeXlDJ-1.jpg

JRANGER

04-11-2018, 04:08 AM

wow nice work

jlcustomz

04-11-2018, 12:04 PM

Nice progress as usual, too bad you got the steering wheel on the wrong side.:poke::poke:

Max Power

04-11-2018, 02:18 PM

Well actually...it's on the right side...see what I did there...hehe

Thanks guys!

cooki3mnstr

04-13-2018, 10:34 AM

I just finished reading this thread and I'm thoroughly impressed by your ingenuity and fab work. I can't wait to see this thing rip up the streets. Keep up the great work!

Max Power

04-13-2018, 02:13 PM

Thanks, Cookie. I appreciate it!

scrubby2009

04-17-2018, 06:08 AM

As clever as driving on a street might sound whilst elbow deep in rust repairs... the fantasy fueling me might well involve just a tiny bit of braking at the apex of a corner, just enough to plant the nose and let the rear rotate so you can nail the throttle down, all the while giggling like a schoolgirl. At least that's how I drove the A4 Avant my wife had, when I was alone. Seems infinitely cooler, going at it in a vintage Ford cab! Carry on, watching closely!

Max Power

04-17-2018, 02:42 PM

Thanks, Scrubby! An Avant in any Audi looks great I think. And even better when the wife has one that you can push the limits in when you "borrow" it. haha

I've been working on the pedals and under dash bits. The pedal box is a large cast alloy piece that mounts the fly-by-wire accelerator, brake pedal and booster. It uses one bolt location on the under dash frame which worked out great as it puts it where it needs to be in relation to the steering wheel. Thankfully I have all that space between the cab and the steering rack as it's to get used up now pushing the firewall forward to house it all.

While under there I was looking at the Audi heat/cooling assembly. It too mounts off the under dash frame. It doesn't fit it completely but thankfully the housing splits where the fan section mounts. I can have a go at reworking it. I need to add water heated air flow to the windscreen for demisting, this is needed for engineering. But of course I want A/C as well. By using what I have, I know it works and it wont cost me anything other than time and some minor materials.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/04/DkKupNZ-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/04/IICvPfy-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/04/y4TnYNw-1.jpg

There will still be mountains of room in front of the middle seat. The block of timber is just supporting the left side while I was eyeing it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/04/IpKxP4D-1.jpg

This is the assembly

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/04/D6Wcc7N-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/04/ETNBcXR-1.jpg

And all this is just the dash wiring. I'm stoked that it unplugs at the firewall to the engine compartment as well as left and right side A-pillars to the body harnesses. The previous Audi I worked on did not do this and it was a major headache swapping a wiring harness that was one piece from headlights to tail lights.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/04/GBOSFqJ-1.jpg

MrBlonde

05-03-2018, 09:43 PM

Yeah!

Max Power

05-12-2018, 08:23 PM

I'm still at it, despite the slow progress. Lots of head scratching going on lately working out the firewall, the wipers (they need to be converted to RHD), wiring and pedal box. I've got to manage to fit everything in a much smaller space.

I cut what I could of the Audi firewall out, mainly around the pedal box and booster.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/05/VqZSVHW-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/05/xnVRxuT-1.jpg?1

and then cut it down to s shape that will work. I sanded it back and have attempted to get it to rust but not a lot of joy in that aspect yet.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/05/E3diSOI-1.jpg?1

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/05/FJ4GJJ4-1.jpg

I've since been shaping a new firewall out of some surface rusted cold rolled sheet steel that I had. It matches the cab quite well.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/05/iKwZn2P-1.jpg

The booster in place along with the plastic housing for the ECU. The engine wiring harness goes into that opening on the front and the dash wiring plugs into the under side through another opening.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/05/mcrMxTU-1.jpg

My aim from here is to tack this section of the firewall in place and then build the rest around it. The left side of the firewall will be a different shape as it is the area where the fan for the under dash A/C is.

I am waiting on new wiper parts from Midfifty to arrive so that I can work out the wiper motor assembly. I am planning to use the 52-53 wiper supports onto the Audi wiper frame and motor.