Factory lead filler on roof/quarter seam

[Kmart78]

I'm in the process of restoring my 71 camaro and I'm starting on replacing both quarter panels but had a question. The roof is rust free and in great shape and the factory lead filled seam is in great shape too, do I need to remove the lead and fill it with a small patch or just leave it? I've seen many people remove the lead, but is it necessary if it is in good shape? Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated!

[Goosesdad]

Same car....same question. The advice I have from a body guy with a handful of builds is.....if it's not separating from the body, leave it there. Makes me nervous but he seems pretty adamant about the advice. I know that doesn't help much, best I have for now. We'll keep searching for the concensus of the right advice!

[CampbellshotrodsAZ]

I'm in the "If it ain't cracked (broke), don't fix it" camp. The lead seams generally held up very well over the years. Filling it with plastic filler will show the fill later as it shrinks down, and welding in a filler panel takes a good, careful welder to avoid heating and warping the metal.

[Kmart78]

Ive heard the same advice as well, but its nice to get several that agree. Now, is there any particular order in which to rebuild the back half with new sheet metal. I.E. inner wheelhouses, outer wheelhouses, quarters, tail light panel, etc??

[Johnny Blaze]

Doing a 71 as well. All new sheetmetal, I plan to use "All Metal" to replicate the lead seam. Kmart78, I did the metal in the order you mentioned. Floor then inner wheelwells then tail panel, etc.... Worked my way out.

[slimjim]

This is something that has been bugging me for over a month, I've built several cars but never a car as old as a first gen that still uses lead filler. The shop taking care of the paint and fabrication of my build however have built several, and I have always been very happy with their work. however after completing the panels ( in the same order as stated above, built from the ground up) and they say they're done, the body could go into paint very soon, and when I asked about lead filler, they said it's not necessary, bondo will be fine...
now i may be less knowledgable than they are when it comes to body and paint, but that amount of bondo scares me.
they didn't weld in a filler patch like I've seen on other builds, but I don't want to waste $13k on paint if this is a cheap move??
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/IMG_6480-1.jpg (http://s198.photobucket.com/user/weeaazz/media/IMG_6480.jpg.html)

[MonzaRacer]

I prefer figerglass resin jelly if replacing full quarter but if leavin g the lead area and upper part of the quarter dont mess with it.

[jasonsnova]

I own a body shop.....the proper repair nowadays days would be to remove the lead put the new qtr on at the same factory seam .....then weld it solid factory they were spot welded and leaded. After its welded Grind smooth then apply a coat of fiberglass reinforced filler or tiger hair as some would call it (we prefer upol brand) then a coat of filler (bondo) followed by a finish coat of polyester finish glaze (assuming g you get it to proper shape after 1 coat of mud...lol)
There's nothing wrong with lead ....but it's heavy hazardous and alot harder to work with......good luck

[redss86]

^^^^^Exactly what he said^^^^Bodyman here. SLOWLY weld it completely with multiple tack welds. Skipping around to minimize warpage. Than dress the welds, and fill initially with fibreglass filler. Then finish with regular filler. Been doing it this way for years with out a single problem.

[Goosesdad]

Thank you all very much!! Since I'm not going to replace my quarters, think I will leave the lead alone. I've ground a a couple of spots to confirm there isn't any underlying separation....None, so leaving well enough alone. Thanks again, appreciate the advice!!