Fusible link vs. Maxi-Fuse - What would you run?

[Larry Callahan]

I'm ready to wire from the alternator to the starter and I wonder what everyone else is doing.

8 gauge? 4 gauge?

Fusible link or something like a Maxi-Fuse? I understand the fusible link and the slow blow nature of it but they worry me. Can a slow blow fuse be used instead?

[chpr1972]

You could probably wire a fuse in it but the fusible length has been used by the factory for a long time. Why mess with what is proven? Why have another fuse in line to distract from the looks.
when there were 35 amp alternators fuses were used, but with all the modern accessories and high amp alternators I would think that a high surge would likely blow more fuses

[ErikLS2]

121552Many new cars use a large value fuse for the alternator, 150A or higher in some cases, so I would vote for a maxi-fuse. It's easier to replace too if you ever bump the terminal on the alternator fiddling around with stuff. Here is a handy chart for wire gauge selection:

[Richard454]

Here's my thoughts-

I wouldn't bother fusing it....If it shorts out - the alternator will quickly burn up and stop producing power...I'd just run it so it's protected and secure.

The battery on the other hand - does NOT stop putting out juice when it's shorted- just till it runs out.



Try this- start up your car- disconnect the battery- then short out the alternator-You'll just see some smoke.

Now disconnect the alternator and short the battery. What happens???


Here's a better idea-

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/battfuse_zps924z4gla-1.png~original

I'm running 1/0 gauge to the battery from the alt FWIW....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/16363127204_93ef8b7723_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qVXiCQ)DSCN5079 (https://flic.kr/p/qVXiCQ) by Richard Hayes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/123721740@N04/), on Flickr

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/16778115177_6c3206ee58_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ryCe6T)DSCN5081 (https://flic.kr/p/ryCe6T) by Richard Hayes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/123721740@N04/), on Flickr

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/DSCN5633_zpseuhpgsnr-1.jpg~original

[ErikLS2]

There is no benefit from NOT fusing the wire to the alternator and several benefits in doing so. While it won't hurt anything other than increase weight, running 1/0 G wire to the alternator is extreme overkill. What gauge ground side wire are you using? Just curious.

[Richard454]

There is no benefit from NOT fusing the wire to the alternator and several benefits in doing so. While it won't hurt anything other than increase weight, running 1/0 G wire to the alternator is extreme overkill. What gauge ground side wire are you using? Just curious.

isn't that what these cars are about???

There are several high end cars that don't fuse/protect the alternator- and even run the wire to the trunk w/o any fuse protection. A BMW 750IL is one car I'm fairly familiar with...See below-

I'm running 1/0 ground wire as well- and have several ground straps off the Motor.

1/0 to the starter- 1/0 the the Alt and 4 to the terminal blocks behind/in the dash. I'm running (2) 6V batteries behind the seat to give me more storage. Since the batteries are in the back- I've added a jump post right off the starter under the hood. Also ran 4 gu to the front of the radiator- to power upgraded headlights/electric fans/two sets of upgraded horns and electric headlight motors-
Also running an electric AC compressor-electric parking brake-heated seats-not to mention a heated and cooled cupholder!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/17305881142_6fe460c364_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/sngax5)DSCN5177 (https://flic.kr/p/sngax5) by Richard Hayes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/123721740@N04/), on Flickr

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/15171387463_a346424a58_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/p7DjVV)DSCN4917 (https://flic.kr/p/p7DjVV) by Richard Hayes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/123721740@N04/), on Flickr

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/17292712946_2656dea39c_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/sm6F6d)DSCN5182 (https://flic.kr/p/sm6F6d) by Richard Hayes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/123721740@N04/), on Flickr

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/17096678098_b22b523b9d_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/s3LWL3)DSCN5169 (https://flic.kr/p/s3LWL3) by Richard Hayes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/123721740@N04/), on Flickr
Donor car....
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/16039802853_811f90c006_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qrobz4)DSCN0762 (https://flic.kr/p/qrobz4) by Richard Hayes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/123721740@N04/), on Flickr

Donor motor-
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/16473554519_9b4e1c7d17_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/r6HgQ4)DSCN0661 (https://flic.kr/p/r6HgQ4) by Richard Hayes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/123721740@N04/), on Flickr

Now-
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/09/17081025149_26941a697e_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/s2oHFB)DSCN5168 (https://flic.kr/p/s2oHFB) by Richard Hayes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/123721740@N04/), on Flickr

the car-

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/09/15453838765_6d50b9ddf9_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/pxAXRX)DSCN4811 (https://flic.kr/p/pxAXRX) by Richard Hayes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/123721740@N04/), on Flickr

[sccacuda]

This is why I'm not a huge fan of the aftermarket fuse blocks. I like to use OEM junction boxes. You can grab a small one from a low line car or truck (Neon's and older Dakota's are great) and they have a lug terminal for connection from the alternator and battery. They also incorporate the Maxi fuse to protect the circuit. They look good and work great because they have relays and fuses for about everything we need on our PT cars (especially EFI), but not much else. The lids are clearly labeled, and the wire colors are different to make it easy to draw a schematic for future reference. You need to stick with an actual fuse box, and not a Integrated Power Module, so your looking for something early-mid-2000's. I still say the OEM quality of these parts are far superior to any aftermarket box.

[Richard454]

This is why I'm not a huge fan of the aftermarket fuse blocks. I like to use OEM junction boxes. You can grab a small one from a low line car or truck (Neon's and older Dakota's are great) and they have a lug terminal for connection from the alternator and battery. They also incorporate the Maxi fuse to protect the circuit. They look good and work great because they have relays and fuses for about everything we need on our PT cars (especially EFI), but not much else. The lids are clearly labeled, and the wire colors are different to make it easy to draw a schematic for future reference. You need to stick with an actual fuse box, and not a Integrated Power Module, so your looking for something early-mid-2000's. I still say the OEM quality of these parts are far superior to any aftermarket box.


I like to use a lot of "junkyard" stuff as well- but these modular relay/fuse blocks might change your mind. They are totally configurable-can fuse before or after the relay or both and they slide right together- and relatively inexpensive -but have only been able to find them in the UK. Order a coupe dozen and the price is about $8/shipped.

I'm a fan of doing sort of subpanels if you'd call it that. Run power -then have fuse/relay right at the the devise. Makes troubleshooting a breeze. Also use the blade fuses w/ LED that lights if they have blown.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/relaysocket_zps828e9009-1.jpg~original




Here's what I'd call a subpanel- at the headlights- have the relays for the high lows- and used Ford blade type diodes to trigger the Miata electric headlight conversion


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/16887623237_4088a272b9_h-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rJiu2T)DSCN5113 (https://flic.kr/p/rJiu2T) by Richard Hayes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/123721740@N04/), on Flickr


And here's the back of the car- have a subpanel for the fuel pump/e-stopp electric parking brake/PWM control for the rear license plate-reverse lights
Also use a Ford Inertia Roll-over switch to shut off the fuel pump- Wired in a blown fuse - so if the inertia switch is tripped- the fuse lights

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/16398743430_bc8996285a_h-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qZ6R6G)DSCN5036 (https://flic.kr/p/qZ6R6G) by Richard Hayes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/123721740@N04/), on Flickr

Inertia switch triggered- LED lights...Too bad Ford didn't do this!!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/16399901189_61fe6ec317_h-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qZcMg4)DSCN5038 (https://flic.kr/p/qZcMg4) by Richard Hayes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/123721740@N04/), on Flickr

Here's the panel for the ECU-I made it so the big accessories are time delayed for about 6 seconds after starting. Also using a Hella built in delay relay -so interior lights/power windows turn off 5 minutes after the car is turned off.

I just got a real labeler....will put it to work-
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/15875688784_df31db01f8_h-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qbT4b9)DSCN5030 (https://flic.kr/p/qbT4b9) by Richard Hayes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/123721740@N04/), on Flickr


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/16311974739_db27984e1b_h-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qRr8MM)DSCN5029 (https://flic.kr/p/qRr8MM) by Richard Hayes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/123721740@N04/), on Flickr


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/16310802500_3e56fef19c_h-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qRk8jL)ECU fuse panel (https://flic.kr/p/qRk8jL) by Richard Hayes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/123721740@N04/), on Flickr

[badazz81z28]

My painless harness integrated a fuse rather than a fusible link.

[badazz81z28]

Here's my thoughts-

I wouldn't bother fusing it....If it shorts out - the alternator will quickly burn up and stop producing power...I'd just run it so it's protected and secure.

The battery on the other hand - does NOT stop putting out juice when it's shorted- just till it runs out.



Try this- start up your car- disconnect the battery- then short out the alternator-You'll just see some smoke.

Now disconnect the alternator and short the battery. What happens???


Here's a better idea-

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/battfuse_zps924z4gla-1.png~original

I'm running 1/0 gauge to the battery from the alt FWIW....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/16363127204_93ef8b7723_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qVXiCQ)DSCN5079 (https://flic.kr/p/qVXiCQ) by Richard Hayes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/123721740@N04/), on Flickr

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/16778115177_6c3206ee58_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ryCe6T)DSCN5081 (https://flic.kr/p/ryCe6T) by Richard Hayes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/123721740@N04/), on Flickr

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/DSCN5633_zpseuhpgsnr-1.jpg~original


Do you have part numbers and source for the fuse set-up?

[sccacuda]

I like the modular panel design, but the "sub panels" would concern me. It looks like your running non fuse protected hot wires the full length of the car and fuse protecting at the device instead of the source?

[Richard454]

Do you have part numbers and source for the fuse set-up?

Here you go- these guys have a lot of neat stuff-

http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/home

The battery fuses-

http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/1024/category/192



I like the modular panel design, but the "sub panels" would concern me. It looks like your running non fuse protected hot wires the full length of the car and fuse protecting at the device instead of the source?
The cable is protected-just not fused. Protected as in - run correctly, secured, away from moving parts and has a extra sheath over a high quality insulator. There are millions of cars w/ the battery in back (trunk/back seat) and the cable runs w/o a fuse to the starter (see below). The ONLY way to protect the cable would be put a fuse at the battery- as I've showed above. But let me just say a 100AMP fuse at the battery you can still have a fire. Most fires I have seen were from small wires not correctly fused for the gauge of the wire. The others were from stupidity!!

In fact when I worked for Kenwood years ago- they had to buy about 4 cars because the spring in the fuse holder(5A) got red hot & caught the plastic on fire- the actual spring was too thin a gauge.


BTW - if you are looking for so really good large gauge wire CHEAP- go to the junkyard and fine a mid 90's 7 series BMW-


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/DSCN3848_zps5342ce75-1.jpg~original

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/DSCN3847_zps7e72582f-1.jpg~original

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/DSCN3851_zps598c7068-1.jpg~original

[72BBSwinger]

I have a 150 Amp circuit breaker between battery and starter then I run my alternator 4 gauge wire to the starter side of the breaker. 2 birds with one stone.

[TheJDMan]

I have a 6ga wire running from my alternator output to the starter's common battery post with no fuse or circuit breaker. However, I do have a fuseable link running between the starter's battery post and the power block of the car. I also have a heavy circuit breaker between the starter and battery mounted in the trunk near the battery.

This is the circuit breaker setup I'm running in the trunk close to the battery in addition to a master cut-off switch.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[j-c-c]

Looking at your 1/0? flexible copper crimped terminals, if my wire is as nice as your is, and especially if I am planning to cover the connection, ie tape, HS, or whatever, I pre coat the wire with "NO OX" before crimping. This is most important IMO if the connection will ever see any amount of water, as I have found the water is trapped for a long time, which continuously corrodes the wire, causing higher resistance,, thereby heating the wire accelerating the natural O2 induced corrosion, and making a vicious escalating cycle over time. The "NO ox" nips this failure in the bud, is easy, never seen once covered, and gives a lot of peace of mind.

http://www.sanchem.com/electrical-contact-lubricant.html