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View Full Version : One last try, WTB SBC Aluminum block.



RichardSIA
11-25-2015, 05:49 PM
Been looking for over a year with no luck. Cannot justify new since I'm not a sponsored race team.
Just want to build a trick El Camino, screaming 327, Muncie, Jag IRS, and R&P steering.
Supposed to look "Old School" outside but whats not visible is "Free" according to the rules I set for myself.

Would really like an aluminum block to help with the weight balance but $3.5K+ and up is just not possible.
With so many guys going LS now a decent used Gen 1 type aluminum block should not be that hard to find.
Need wet sump and 350 mains for my Eagle 327 crank.
The closer to stock 4.00" bore the better since it's going to be a street engine.

Sell me that block you've never got around to using, have money for Christmas!
This is my last try before giving up and just using an iron block.
[email protected]
Remove NOSPAM to send an email, please include a description and price.

HandOverFist
11-25-2015, 11:23 PM
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/drt-31161111/overview/

MOREHORSEPOWER
11-26-2015, 06:38 AM
/\ /\ /\ /\ Have A New Dart SHP block in the box I am selling and will make a deal on . SLC just down I80

RichardSIA
11-27-2015, 08:45 PM
Machine shop tested 4-Bolt 010 factory 350 block can be had for $250.00

Dart SHP is still cast iron, so how cheap is a "Deal"?

HandOverFist
11-27-2015, 10:07 PM
If you are not pushing serious hp then a factory block will be just fine if correctly machined.

RichardSIA
12-18-2015, 10:44 PM
Target is 400+ HP.
It's the WEIGHT up front I would like to reduce.
Trying to balance out a nose heavy El Camino.

HandOverFist
12-18-2015, 11:17 PM
What years/models had the block you are looking for?

MonzaRacer
12-20-2015, 05:03 PM
What years/models had the block you are looking for?

ALL aluminum small block Chevy Gen1/Gen2/LT1 are all cast iron. NO production aluminum blocks were ever produced for general production. GM did make Bowtie/GMPP one, or well at least had them made.
Only aftermarket made wet SBC blocks.

Jetfixr320
12-20-2015, 08:15 PM
I think he is wanting aftermarket but not wanting to pay full price.
https://www.theengineshop.com/products/engine-blocks/font-sizeinch2inchbmp-sbc-alum-blocks-font/bmp-sbc-aluminum-block.html

MonzaRacer
01-04-2016, 07:15 PM
I know but the last three I bought cost a salty amount and were well used race engines. Lucky me I have a skilled machinist friend...not sure whats gonna happen when he quits or dies, he is a great friend and awesome teacher.

nokones
01-05-2016, 06:06 AM
I'm assuming you already checked Craigslist. Did you check racingjunk.com yet?

RichardSIA
03-07-2016, 10:17 PM
Looking for used aftermarket that is wet sump.
Would have thought they would be easier to find now that the LS is the "In" thing.
So far the few I have been found have been nearly the price of new and far away.

nokones
03-09-2016, 09:30 AM
Another thought is look in the classifieds of the publications catered to sprint cars. Most of the sprint cars use aluminum SBC. I came across a couple a few years ago but, I wanted a new block instead. My thoughts are if someone has an aluminum SBC, they won't be upgrading to a LS block. The aluminum SBC is a lot more reliable and can take the stress of high horsepower and RPMs more than a factory LS block.

jasonsnova
03-10-2016, 07:44 AM
Why the trouble for a 400hp engine?? Weight saving will probally only be 70-80lbs ....

RichardSIA
08-27-2016, 08:38 PM
Paired with aluminum heads of course and deleting as many accessories as possible.
Jag IRS will be a little heavier than stock but less unsprung weight.
Trying for weight balance as much as overall reduction.

Now considering one of these, http://www.racingjunk.com/Blocks/182714558/ALUMINUM-BLOCK-PRO-RACE-series-SB-CHEV-FREE-SHIP-most-48-.html

Wondering if anyone knows a brave person who has built an engine around one of them?

Price is pretty good, actually better than what some sellers want for a used and damaged U.S. block.
Australia has to be better than China, IF they are actually cast and machined in Australia, not just redirected from there.
More research to be done.

HandOverFist
08-27-2016, 11:57 PM
Sounds like whatever the intended use is there are no strict rules. Maybe go conventional with some engine setback? If not, that block listed above should easily handle your hp expectations regardless of country of origin.

What year El Camino are you building? I'm currently in the middle of a '67 myself.

RichardSIA
09-17-2016, 04:41 PM
'68 Custom/
"Custom" seems appropriate.

Got the ex-Nova SS (1970) 350 that I had been running apart.
Still has cross-hatch in the cylinders, has to have been "Rebuilt", but not by anyone who had a real clue (Stock heads with NO port work).

Surprised to find it's a 4-bolt block!
Even better, looks like I can rebore for my 327 .040 pistons.
Any point to trying to preserve the original block stamping?
Not original to a '68 El Camino but does carry the desired flavor of a car modded in the 70's via engine swap?
Now I know why they call them "Pink" rods.
Pistons appear to be cast TRW (Boo, Hiss!) with no visible oversize marking.
Cam is an Elgin E-901-P copy of the solid lifter 302 Z28. (GM #3849346)
I looked up the iron heads, 64cc and considered good for their day.
This engine had a single plane intake when I got it, I switched to a performer RPM but was not happy with it either.
Now that I know the cam I understand the SP manifold and why the automatic was so bad even after changing the TC.
Cam looks new, I think I may reuse it. ( And I'm ˘heap!)
Have a set of Browfield aluminum heads to go on it.
Also a Victor Jr. intake matched to the heads.
So I think it should be pretty healthy but a bit high spirited when done.

I sold the TH400 which did NOT work with this cam today, CHEAP.
Putting in a Muncie and 3.54 Jag IRS rear.
Cannot really go to lower gears as it's to be a Street/Hill Climb car.
I will be looking for ways to shave some weight.
Muncie is at least 50# lighter than the TH400, aluminum flywheel too.

My main engine question now becomes weather or not I can just run this cam or is there a newer grind with clear advantages really worth the extra $$?
The whole build is intended to be a bit vintage, so this cam appeals to me.
I'm still too cheap to convert to roller cam without some serious convincing.

Last question for today, who makes some significantly lighter lifters at a good price?
I will also be trying to lighten the valve-train, Ti keepers at the least.
Not sure about the rockers and do I need use the stud girdles I have?

RichardSIA
09-27-2016, 08:30 PM
Okay, aluminum block is officially dead.
I will shed more weight with a fiberglass front end and spend less too.
'Glass front will also improve access to the engine and suspension which my back will appreciate.

RichardSIA
03-22-2022, 09:44 PM
Glaciers formed and melted faster than this build! :banghead:
But I did finally get to bring my 327 engine parts home from the machine shop today.
Might actually have something picture worthy soon.