14" Baer bbk help

[bpmack16]

So I installed the pro-performance 14" bbk on my 1972 c10 around the beginning of the summer. Let me start by saying all the guys at pro-performance have been great and very helpful. But none of us can figure out the problem I am having.
So here we go.
After installing the kit front and rear it became clear there was a problem. Once the brakes heat up the truck starts to make a notable grinding/ humming noise from the front end. This happens both left turning and right turning. The noise go's away when I pres on the brakes. We have replaced the steering box, controls arms, shocks, springs, ex... The noise is still there. We removed the kit several times to check if there was any uneven ware, no such issue was discovered. We changed brake pads , nope that didn't do it. We removed the inner wheel wels just to confirm, nope. So what could this noise be. As you can see this has been burning a hole in my pocket, pro-performance's pocket and my mechanic's pocket we have way over 3 weeks in trying to figure this out. A call was also made to Baer but no suggestions helped. Let me allso add, we checked drive shaft play and rear end as well all is good. HELP please.

[rchaskin]

Bad Hub bearings?
Wrong hub bearings?
Too Much / Too Little preload on the hubs?

That would be what I looked at first.

God Luck.

[bpmack16]

Bad Hub bearings?
Wrong hub bearings?
Too Much / Too Little preload on the hubs?

That would be what I looked at first.

God Luck.

Baer sent the hubs with bearings and all looks good on the bearing side of things.
Too much/ to little preload on hubs? Can you explain?

[rchaskin]

I just meant the spindle nut.
You have to preload the bearings a little.

Can you "rock" the wheel when they are tight?
With the weight off the car, grab top and bottom of the tire and see if there is any play.

[bpmack16]

I just meant the spindle nut.
You have to preload the bearings a little.

Can you "rock" the wheel when they are tight?
With the weight off the car, grab top and bottom of the tire and see if there is any play.

No play with the tire off the ground.

[fleming23]

I know it sounds weird but what master cylinder? Do you feel the brakes dragging when this happens?

[bpmack16]

I don't feel the brakes drag and I have the stock master cylinder with the baer prop valve.

[bpmack16]

So I got the truck back today and the guy has had the truck for 2.5 weeks with no results. So what we did was install ride tec shocks in the front, engine and trans mounts and changebdiff fluid. So the noise is still there and not only dose it happen while turning now it happens while going straight on uneaven roads. So something is twisting to make the noise. But like I said it goes away when brakes are applied and only hot. I dont get this ****. Anyone have any more ideas.

[bryant]

possible too tight of tolerances in the piston to caliper bore?
got to think about what happens when the the brakes heat up. with heat metal expands. the rotors and pads are the first thing getting the heat then the pistons and calipers. so i would be looking at the calipers or the hub bearings as stated above. those are are what really get the heat soak. Maybe its something with the wheels. when the hub heats up, maybe the wheel face to the hub face is some how distorting.
you have isolated it to the brake area when you say you apply the brakes and noise goes away. Im thinking one of the calipers is the problem the more i think it out in my head. short of taking the calipers apart and carefully measuring all the specs to find any possible tolerances out of spec, you will need to try a different set of calipers.
best of luck.

[bpmack16]

Baer sent me a whole new set and that included calipers. So I don't think it is the caliper.

[andrewb70]

No play with the tire off the ground.

It's also possible that you have too much preload. This makes sense because the symptoms present themselves when the brakes warm up. Having aluminum hubs makes this a bigger issue.

Please outline your spindle nut tightening procedure.

Andrew

[bpmack16]

I didn't do the job but it looks like I will be now, what is the preferred method? Shop said truck was taking up too much time. Screw them.

[bpmack16]

Baer said tightn the castle nut tight and then go a little tighter to align the pin. Like I said I got that information from Baer brakes.

[bpmack16]

The directions I have for the hub install say tighten castle nut to 15ftlbs and then back off to closest hole for pin. Dose this sound correct to you? This is what the directions for the drop spindles say.

[a67]

The directions I have for the hub install say tighten castle nut to 15ftlbs and then back off to closest hole for pin. Dose this sound correct to you? This is what the directions for the drop spindles say.

That should work as there should always be some end play while cold. The GM spec for a '92 f-body is .001" - .005" of end play, checked with a dial indicator. I shoot for the lower end of this at .0015" - .002" of end play.

Bob.

[bpmack16]

Sobwe found that the pinion angle is off and the carrier bearing is cracked. We think the drive shaft may be too long as well from the trans shop who installed the 700r4 and cut the shaft down. This was all good until I lowered the truck and now all the angles are off. So after this week I will give you guys an update. Hope this is the final fix.