65 Mustang fastback repair and build

[1967marti]

I'm starting on a 65 mustang fastback that needs major repair work and modification for a local customer.

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This is how it sits as delivered to me. The rest of the car is in just as bad if not worse shape. It will be getting AJE Racing front and rear subframe along with all the running gear from a modern mustang. The car will be up on my jig frame by the end of the week and the exciting part will begin.

[Crestronwizard]

Looks like a lot of fun! I have a 65 Fastback shell that we replaced just about all the metal on. Look forward to seeing your progress.

[1967marti]

Thanks, it going to be fun... Kinda...

[Godbolt]

Nice to see another one saved. Good work.

[1967marti]

Thanks godbolt!
They are getting harder to find everyday and the ones that are obtainable are in pretty rough shape.
I don't make a living off of this so I can keep my prices pretty low, so I always end up seeing the basket cases lol!

[1967marti]

First update...

Cut off the rotten front clip. I'm going to be able to salvage the core support and it's easier to get it out and cleaned up off the car.

Engine was pulled and rockers were flushed out with some water/power purple mix. Before it goes up on the jig I like to flush out the rockers with a phosphate solution. I snake a painting wand into the rockers to paint the insides and a good phosphate bath will kill off the rust on there and make the paint take much better.

Removed the windows and wire wheeled the frames. Rust everywhere, many, many patches will be needed.

Got a surprise from the shipping company. Parts were due on Tuesday but they showed up 4 days early, NPD for the win.

Next step is going to be plasma cutting out the large chunks of the rotten panels. This makes the car lighter and makes removing the welds much easier as you are only dealing with small strips and not balancing large panels.119290119291119292

[Godbolt]

Nice one. I think the rear window and rear quarter of the 65-66' fastbacks are probably the prettiest of the lot. Lots of work there but looks like you've made a good start. What driveline is planned?

[1967marti]

He's got all the parts from AJE. So the rear is a 8.8 with 4 link, the transmission will be a c4 or c6 and the engine is most likely going to be a mild stroker based off a 351w block. Since everything is off a late model mustang his brakes will all be stuff off of a Crown vick. or SVO mustang.

Yes, I agree... The rear of the 65-66 fb mustangs is very nice, they styling makes the rear wheels look closer to the rear of the car. I think it gives it a slightly more aggressive side profile, too bad they aren't a little wider. But that's nothing a fender kit and wider tires can't fix.

[1967marti]

3rd update time...

Chopped alot more rust out.
I prefer to cut out as much rust as possible while the car is off the jug frame. This is of course as long as the removal doesn't affect the ability of the car to hold its shape as it's lifted onto the jig.

Had another chat with the owner, looks like we have a few added goodies on the list:

1. Convertible rockers
2. Shaved drip rails
3. Replace rear deck filler panel
4. Attach/weld permanent 1/2 fuel rail through one convertible rocker so that it will have AN-8 fittings opening up into the engine bay and trunk.
5. Create a pathway through the other rocker for electrical to pass through.

Next should be mounting on jig frame.

[Dave B]

Wow, I'll be watching this for sure. One of my favourite cars.

[Z06killinSBF]

Oh man! I'm going to follow this one for sure.

[wfo guy]

I feel for you! I hate rusty metal. Now that there are repo bodies, is this cost effective? Or is this about just restoring an original?

[1967marti]

Well... A dynacorn body is about 16k to your door.
This car was purchased for approx 5k, new metal 4k and my labor (approx 4k). So we will have 13k into a 'original' 65 fastback with all of the original interior including the folding back seat.
The dynacorn body is just a shell, so at this current price-point the owner is still making out very well.

[1967marti]

Update time...

Loaded up the car onto the jig frame. Attaching the car up to the mating struts was a bit problematic. The shop that was working on the car before me used a plasma torch to slice out the suspension, this lead them to welding half of the forward leaf-spring bolt to the frame rail on both sides.

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After a bit of careful grinding and a few minutes with an impact gun, I was able to free up the spots needed for the locating struts.

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Pulled out the heater box and got the OK from the owner to sell this off along with his original steering column w/ box, 1970 code stock headers, fan, and the two shock-tower braces. If you want them, PM me...

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Next will be cutting out whats left of the firewall through the trunk pan. I will be welding in convertible rockers, then sub-frame connectors, front frame sections, etc...

I've thrown in a few pictures of the rust along the window openings (front and rear) along with a pic of the 'repair' someone did before the car was brought to me.

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Looks like the car was hit in 3 places over the years, passenger front, passenger rear quarter (t-bone style) and then lastly dead center on the gas cap. The frame is tweaked pretty bad, luckily(?) we are removing so much of the car that it wont matter.

Owner also dropped off a sump pan, looks like I'll be welding a sump onto a stock mustang gas tank.

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[1967marti]

Quick update...

Chopped off the cowl and firewall, cowl was trash as was the firewall.

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I included a picture of the OEM firewall to side panel fitment. It's rusty of course so I outlined the edge of the firewall lip in red and the alignment hole (oval) is in blue.

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I added this picture in to demonstrate that many of these older cars have panels that can vary from car to car. So if you are hoping to just slap a 'ford tooling' panel on a repair project with no need to mess with metal fitment, you might be in for a sad realization.

Next up will be cleaning up the cars rockers and installing the convertible rockers.

[1967marti]

I didn't take too many pictures today. But got a lot done.

Late yesterday afternoon I sanded off all the surface rust and applied some phosphate rust treatment to the back side of the dash and frame rails. This morning I sprayed everything down with POR15 and cleaned up the weld areas.

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Welded up one convertible rocker and modified the passenger torque box to fit around the new inner frame rail. Since the owner wants to hide as much wiring and hoses as possible, I'm building in a route for the fuel houses in the driver side and electrical (including battery cable) through the passengers side.

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Tomorrow the cowl goes on along with the other inner frame rail and then I can start fitting up the front frame rails.

- matt

[Z06killinSBF]

Wow, so much rust!

[1967marti]

Z06killinSBF, makes you feel good about your car right? hahaha!
This car was definitely one of the more rusty one's I've come across. But all is salvageable with with a welder and patience.

[Z06killinSBF]

My car just has a little bit of rust in comparison lol.

Btw, have you shaved the cowls before? I'm looking at doing mine by cutting out the center "braces" between vents and laying 2 pieces on the vents (taking into account the center crest) vs 6 individually cut inserts.

[1967marti]

Yes, I've sealed up the vents before. The easiest way that I have found is to cut out 6 patches that will drop into the vent recesses and use panel bonding epoxy after you scuff up both the patches and the lip areas around the vent openings. If you use the panel bonding epoxy you can do the whole process in the garage without a welder (and not run the risk of warping anything) and be done in an afternoon. Only need a tablespoon worth of bondo and a little sanding before you are ready to spray it with paint.
Cutting them out is asking for trouble, and it serves no purpose. the vents are recessed and the small patch panels will drip right below the surface of the cowl if you use the right thickness.

[1967marti]

Ring brothers makes a cool set of aftermarket vents that bolt onto the cowl, 400$ though...

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[1967marti]

Installed the cowl today. Would have got alot more done but ran into a few issues. The passenger front area took a hit sometime before the car was purchased, I guess the PO thought that you only needed to replace the fender, no need to check for frame damage? Either way, the frame rail was shifted inwards by a little over an inch. So, I tacked a scrap of tubing to brace the drivers side, and used a bottle jack to force the passenger side frame rail into correct position before I welded the cowl in.
To those that are wondering, there are silver lines on the cowl and the jig struts, when I'm moving parts around I have a laser level shooting across the car and referencing those center-line marks. This will allow you to move one part of the car back into alignment without pulling another area out of alignment. Ratcheting straps, chain come-a-longs are all very helpful when doing frame repairs like this.

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[sdg0080]

Man, I bet you hate rust as much as I do. Quite the project, but in the end it will be worth it.

[1967marti]

Yea, rust is always a bummer. Seems all the cars I work on have tones of it, would be nice to go back to fabricating with only clean metal.
But in the end it is always worth getting classic muscle back on the street.

[1967marti]

Cut out almost all of the remaining rust and cleaned out alot of junk that was hiding in the many crevices of the car.
While cleaning out the back half of the car I noticed I was getting some weird measurements off the frame rails. Looks like the accident that hit the passenger rear of the car forced the frame rail a good 1.5-2 inches forward and wrinkled the frame, I didn't notice the wrinkle earlier because someone did a great job of bondo-ing over the wrinkles and blending it with the rest of the frame rail. I've attached a picture that shows some of the rear structure pushed forward (I originally though this was from someone carelessly tossing something heavy into it and denting it).

Firewall was fitting and all the spot-weld holes are cleaned, drilled and ready to be welded in. Unfortunately is a little more complicated as I have to have cutouts and internal panels to build the pathway for the fuel hoses and electrical to run through, so the front won't go on as easy as it would for a stock repair. I will also be cutting and welding on the bulkhead plates for each side before I weld in the torque boxes as its much easier to TIG parts when they are laying flat on my table. I will probably weld in the the sump for the gas tank to get it out of the way, flush it out with some phosphate solution and set it aside to dry for a good week or so before I use a tank sealer on it and spray the outside with raptor liner. Last thing done today was the drivers side convertible rocker was welded in, after the front is finished I will move to modifying the intersection of the rear frame rail and the convertible rocker. The intersection has a very sharp bent that will not allow you to pull a hose through, so we have to build a gradually curving tunnel to connect the two.120067120068120069120070120071

[1967marti]

Got the firewall and cowl welded in. Have the front frame rails sitting straight on the jig and the engine bay panels screwed to the firewall for final checks. Last step is to mount the hood and fenders to make sure everything looks good. Already found that the passenger side front fender is/was not stamped perfectly and the angle from the cowl to the headlight bucket starts about 3/16" too high. I may have to slice it and TIG it back together id the owner wants perfection.

I've attached two pictures of the shock towers getting trimmed. One is if you trim it so it is as thick at the bottom as the frame is wide and two if you trim the towers from the outside edge of the frame rails to the top edge of the shock tower cap. Also included a head-on view to show how much room you will get if you do this modification.

Need to fabricate the cover plates for the towers.... What you guys think about dimples? AKA "speed holes".... Should help with venting the high pressure air under the hood and prevent and 'tin can' noise from the flat panel.

Next step is the repair and install of the core support. It had a good amount of rust but was salvageable and saved the owner a good 200$ or so.

* Forgot to add that the owner has me installing the AJE K-member in the front, so that's why the towers are being modded.120221120222120223120224120225

[Z06killinSBF]

Impressive, such a big undertaking.

[1967marti]

Yea, this car had one foot firmly in the grave. I haven't even started on the rear yet! Hoping to have this wrapped up in less than a week, I have the next car getting dropped off in less than a week and a half.

[85coupe50]

I like it. Moving right along, all that metal work makes me want to get out and start cutting and welding on my 66 coupe.

[1967marti]

@ 85coupe50, OR... send it over to me :bananna2:

[1967marti]

some dimple die work on the shock towers... What you guys think?
Fabbed up a quick remote oil filter mount for an off road rig. The dimples aren't too great, the owner wanted it made out of 1/4 ..... I was able to talk him down to 14 gauge with a welded brace to help with twisting.

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[SPDMETL]

It's flat out amazing to see how much of the original car is able to be replaced...I think I've learned more about body work here than all my own rust work. Wow!

[1967marti]

It really is surprising when you step back and take note of everything that is 'new'... If I were to weigh all of the leftover original parts that are going to be part of the car once it's finished, I would be very surprised if it was more than 80 lbs. But the important thing is that it is 80 RUST FREE lbs.

[1967marti]

Welded in the torque boxes, they are almost finished except for the bulkhead plates that will allow you to pull new fuel/electrical lines. I need to fire up the laser cutter to male those parts and then TIG them on before I spray the raptor liner.

Cut the rear fenders to the correct length for replacing then with 1/2 length repops. I will be using a flange-ing tool to make an almost flat repair seam. I will be using a combination of panel bonding adhesive and small welds at certain high-stress points. I like this method as it all but eliminated the danger of warping during welding. The down side is that it is slow and depending on the temperature you will have to leave it clamped for anywhere between 4-8 hours, better have a bunch of vicegrips on hand!

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I cleaned up the rust under the rear window panel, a combination of phosphate spray and a powered wire cup took care of everything before I coated it with some POR15.

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Painted up the engine pay with some POR15 over the welded areas, after its dry I will be seam-sealing the panels.
You won't see me painting the inside of the frame rails during this work, as I like to flush out the rails with a phosphate solution and blow them out before I use a snake-wand and spray everything inside with some reduced POR15.120400120401

[1967marti]

Looks like we will be swapping out both rear frame rails, from the torque box all the way back.
I was removing the final pieces of floor pan from the rear rails in preparation for welding in the two rear frame rail patches, when I discovered a mouse nest halfway up the rail (on both sides) that had rotted 90% of the way through the arched portion of the rails. That combined with the overall degraded condition (not to mention the crash damage on the passenger side), it made sense to replace both sides.
While we are waiting for the rails to arrive I'll be wrapping up the front end and welding up the rust spots around the windows.

[Godbolt]

I admire both you and the owner for this build. Him for saving the car and being prepared to see it through, you for your skills and the fact you didn't put it in the "too hard" basket. Great to see.

[1967marti]

Thanks Godbolt... The owner is being a good sport about it, it is after all his dream car. But even so, it is a bitter pill to swallow finding all this damage when you only thought you needed rear skins and new wheel tubs.
In the end it will be a very nice car and be able to handle the power he is looking to put to the wheels.
Only problem now is i'll need to find a way to cut around the convertible inner rockers to try and same as much of them as possible. I might end up having to do a 'sleeve' over them to bridge the 1/2 or so of missing rail once I cut out the old rear torque boxes.

[ekmxryda]

Nice fab work so far, love the fastbacks. Are you going to mini tub it?

[Josh@Ridetech]

Good work! I can't wait to see more!

[1967marti]

@ekmxryda, Yes and no... The owner wants to mini-tub it as far as possible without having to modify or 'delete' the rear seats. So I will be getting him maybe 1-1.5 inches on the inside and rolling his fenders to get him breathing room. we will be installing a tri-4 link from AJE along with a stock rear 8.8 out of a explorer (i think), so we wont have to worry about side-to-side movement from the axle.

@Josh, thanks! I installed one of your tri-4 links in a 67 mustang I did before this car (no build log on that unfortunately) and really liked it. I have a custom rear suspension job coming up after this, and was thinking I could use parts from that kit to build it up. I'll shoot you a PM...

- matt

[1967marti]

Update... Most of rear frames removed, both entire rear frame rails and rear torque boxes are bad and the replacement metal should be here in 2 or three days. Hopefully I can have all the old stuff cut out and the inner frame rails patched before they arrive. Passenger side rear quarter tacked and bonded to the body.
Seam sealed the front of the car and mounted the passenger door to check the body lines.120709120708120707

[1967marti]

Finished mounting the rear fenders and window panel. Next is mod the stock wheel tubs for mini-tubs and wait for the last frame rail to show up.120856120857120858

[Decurion]

Jeebus! Thats some impressive work resurrecting this thing! Im not a body man, but wouldnt it have been easier to just snip the roof and stick it on a clean notch chassis? Seems like in the end youll have just as much sheetmetal left from the original fastback car. lol

[1967marti]

Not really, Including my labor (I'm a cheap date) we are just under 9500 for everything you see... Not shown is a one piece trunk pan and a one piece floor pan that have been purchased but not-yet installed.

Hopefully by next weekend I'll be finished with this one. I've got some cool mods for this car that I'll be showing in a few days but for now it's still repair and rebuilding.

Here is a sneak peek at the next car I'm doing. This is how she looks right after it got dropped off....120872120873120874120875

[Godbolt]

Oh dear. That latest one doesn't appear to have the rust but it sure looks as if it all got too hard for whoever was doing it! A man has got to know his limitations......

[1967marti]

@ godbolt "That's a bingo!" (inglorious *******s reference).

It broke in half (plus some) on the trailer down here!

[chunger]

@ godbolt "That's a bingo!" (inglorious *******s reference).

It broke in half (plus some) on the trailer down here!

I assume you mean Magnum Force reference?

[Godbolt]

Mine was. But "that's a bingo!" is most definitely Inglorious Basterds. Christopher Waltz is fantastic.

[1967marti]

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[1967marti]

Got the one piece trunk floor in, good quality stuff from dynacorn. I will be mini-tubing it so there will be some trimming around the wheel areas once I get all the stock brackets welded back on (he wants to keep his seats unmolested).

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Welded in the rear frame rails, quick pic to see how much needs to be trimmed to get a good fit around the new inner rockers.

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All I have on-hand is repop trunk lids, so I cant really fit the rear light panel and quarters back to "oem" specs. I'd really doesn't matter as I can message the taillight panel and rear quarters to fit the repop trunk lid and any extra work will be done to the trunk lid to make the seams look nice.

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[sdg0080]

Man this car is looking good. I wish they made panels for my car. This is going to one clean car.

[1967marti]

Sorry the delay in updates.... Xmas, a trip to San Diego and cutting a tendon in half on my left hand have slowed me down a bit...

Got the new AJE rear subframe/triangulated 4-link installed and welded up. This is one of the early ones so it doesn't have locating tabs. Was told when I called in that all the one's currently shipped have tabs so you won't need to do any measuring.

Cut off the bump stops and pulled some 550 cord through the rear frame sections to help with pulling the hoses and cables over the bolts... I could have left the bolts out as I welded in the subframe, but I always like to use everything the designer recommends.... Having written my fare share of engineering document I can tell you nothing is more infuriating than someone not following the engineers instructions and then complains about a failure...

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[1967marti]

Quick update...

Here are a few pictures to help explain how the bulkhead fittings will be mounted to a removable plate so that in the future the hose or wire combinations can easily be changed out by making a new bulkhead plate and cutting out whatever pattern is desired.

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Also a few shots of the final fitting of the sub-frame connectors and the rear most section with the oval hole for the pass-through of the hoses on one side and the wiring on the other.

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What I like to do is keep the fuel hoses at the lowest part of the car's chassis. This means that in the event of a hole or leak in the hose that the fuel will drip straight out of the car and wont have to run over or pool in areas of the car. I also like to have factory looking drain holes along the length of the sub-frame connectors so that if there is a leak the fuel can quickly drain from the rails and/or you will notice dripping fuel right away.... You won't have to wait until you have gallons of fuel in your sub-frame before it overflows and becomes noticeable. The holes also allow venting of fuel fumes as any rubber hole will leak some amount of fuel vapor over time.

What isn't pictures is the reinforcement plates that tie the front of the sub-frame connectors to the stock floor supports and the reinforcement plates that box in the back of the sub-frame connectors and tie them onto the rear frame rails. Those will go on later today and the next update will show that.

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[migg400]

Very Nice Work!! I love to see when the Stangs come back to life, especially the Fastback's! This brings back memories of when I first started my build.
Good Luck with the rest of the build......

[1967marti]

Thanks migg400, shes not mine.....I always thought the 65-66 fastbacks were the most elegant of the fastback models.

[65dreamfastback]

So I guess it is ok to reveal now that this is my car. I have been enjoying watching the updates, and I am looking forward to getting the car home so I can start the rest of the build. If you read this entire post, you know that the 65 Fastback was my dream car since I was about 8 years old and my step-brother had one. I am extremely excited about finishing this project and making it the car I have always wanted. It will be Red with white stripes, black interior, a Stroker 393 Turbo setup through at T500. It already has an 8.8 with disc brakes, and a SN95 Front brakes and spindles with a Flaming River rack, coil overs all the way around. The front and back are AJE Racing (as you can see from the pics).

I built another fox body about 15 years ago, and there were some things I really liked, and others I did not like so much. Just google my full name and the word Mustang and you will find the article that came out in 5.0 and super Fords if you care to take a look. Anyway- I am taking all the pieces I liked about that car and doing some of the same things to this one. I do not want a drag car. This is going to be a fun street car that I can really enjoy driving, and well, sitting in the garage and looking at.

I have to tell you- If you are in Texas, and you have the ability to get your car to Matthew, AKA 1967Marti, DO IT! He is amazing, and knows these cars up one side and down the other. I have been around cars, and have worked on cars for many years. I have never met anyone who takes such good care of his customers as he does. He has kept me informed the entire time of his progress, taken great pictures, and has documented every step of the process. I am extremely impressed with his welding lines and how well the panels fit together. If I sound like I am being too positive and I am plugging him here- I did not tell him I was going to post anything, nor did he ask for it. I am posting because of how impressed I am with his work and his business ethics. He is also very fair with his pricing.

[Godbolt]

Excellent stuff. He has done a really great job here. She has come a long way, in not much time for a great price. Well and truly worth the endorsement. Good job saving a very cool car.

[1967marti]

Thanks for the kind words!

Quick update....

Almost finished, just wrapping up the small little welds here and there. I have the rear tubs split and stretched out to the max that they will go without having to modify the interior panels or fold down seat. I know this is a question that comes up so I can tell you for sure that you can stretch both sides of the wheel-tubs inwards 1 inch per side. This combined with rolling the fender lips should give you something in the area of 1.5 - 2 inches extra per side.123167123168

[1967marti]

Mini-tub work...

[1967marti]

So with rolling the fender lips I'm measuring 12.5 of side to tide clearance. So, depending on stance and what-not you can stuff a pretty good size tire in the rear and still keep everything stock looking and do minimal modification to the car, and no frame rail cutting either.

[1967marti]

So with rolling the fender lips I'm measuring 12.5 of side to side clearance. So, depending on stance, suspension and what-not, you can stuff a pretty good size tire in the rear and still keep everything stock looking and do minimal modification to the car, and no frame rail cutting either.

[Z06killinSBF]

Looking good, I did my wheel tubs very similar. I have right at 14.5" clearance on mine but I moved the frame in 2".

[1967marti]

The owner wanted to keep his interior stock so I couldn't go that route. Wish I could though, it would have make everything much easier. The next car in the chute will have the tubs pushed flat against the frame rail.

[1967marti]

Last update for a long while on this car. She's back with her owner getting the cosmetic work done. After that's all done the plan is for her to head back this way for some major repairs to the suspension.. I won't put anything on blast here but if you have or are planning on installing one of the AJE rear subframe kits into a classic mustang shoot me a PM for a conversation on some items I have issues with on that kit.
Here are the last few pictures I took before she was picked up...

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[1967marti]

Before:

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And after:

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[wfo guy]

LOT of work. How many of these have you done?

[1967marti]

Too many.... lol!
Since I've moved down to Austin, this will be my 3rd. But its been dozens upon dozens that I can remember, the best was a real GT500KR.... I mainly do race/track cars but I'll do mild/stock builds too. I can't do concourse builds, I refuse to. They are so stingy and suffocating that it sucks all the fun out of it for me.

The car was finished and sitting on all 4 wheels delivered but I was burning the candle at both ends the last few days and forgot to get some true "final" pictures.

[1967marti]

Update!!

Paint!

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[1967marti]

Forgot to mention, in between last post and the paint update, I shaved the drip rails. It's kinda hard to see in the update pics though. I'll be getting the car back for some suspension repairs and modifications in a month or two, so I'll update with some better pictures.

[JRANGER]

So im building a 65 myself now.....Its actually a Coupe to FB conversion....Can you give me some more info on the shaving of the drip rails? Did you have to do a lot of welding to seal it after? I need to replace mine and or shave them

[1967marti]

Shaving the rails isn't too bad. First thing is to cut the rail back to the roof spot-welds. then from left to right, cut and weld small sections.

[wfo guy]

Now, I'm excited! :)

[jamminj007]

Very nice work sir. Wish I knew about you when I started my project. Keep up the good work!!!

[65 Fastback]

Great work, I would like to follow along with your build.

Tim

[Richness]

Last update for a long while on this car. She's back with her owner getting the cosmetic work done. After that's all done the plan is for her to head back this way for some major repairs to the suspension.. I won't put anything on blast here but if you have or are planning on installing one of the AJE rear subframe kits into a classic mustang shoot me a PM for a conversation on some items I have issues with on that kit.


Loved this build and am curious about the AJE rear, would love to hear the owners feelings on it and sent a PM regarding the installation.

[Fair]

And another lurker of this build wondering what the status is... any updates? Looks like a beautiful build!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/10/_D4A9619L-1.jpg

We just got a 67 track Mustang in the shop and the front suspension on these cars is WACK....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/10/IMG_4156L-1.jpg

After looking at this build and some others, the AJE front subframe might make it onto our customer's car, but with some drastic changes to lower arms, spindle, strut.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/10/Coyote1965AJEL-1.jpg

One of my fabricators used a modified AJE Colt 65 kit on the 65 Fastback above and it came out all right... Any more info on the front bits?

[Cop Magnet]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/10/Coyote1965AJEL-1.jpg

One of my fabricators used a modified AJE Colt 65 kit on the 65 Fastback above and it came out all right... Any more info on the front bits?

Were you able to get headers into the above car??
Nice builds!